Window A/C unit - drill holes in water pan ?
Mark
dips in to the water pan to assist in heat dispersement.
My problem is that every damn fall, I end up getting some water on the rugs
inside and it's cruddy rusty water. I try to tip the unit before bringing it
in and get as much outside as possible, but I always end up getting some
inside.
If I drill a hole to allow the water to drain, will the unit end up
overheating ? I can't imagine it would since there is the possibility of
these things running on hot days that aren't very humid - hence no or minimal
water being kicked back up.
Any input is appreciated on this.
Joseph Meehan
Dripping was a real problem with the older units. It usually ended up
putting a long rust mark on your home under the A/C unit. My guess is that
the water you are seeing is rain water, not that that is going to help you
any. I don't know if it would cause any problems (other than possible stain
problems on your home, and like you I would guess not.
--
Joseph E. Meehan
26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math
Mark
This is definitely not rain water - it condensate. I have an older window
unit that is 220V 30K BTU and it has no problem with it's drain hole. If the
unit is installed properly so that it is tilted slightly downward at the back
of the unit, the water will not drip back on the house.
I think the drill will be coming out on these suckers. I was just wondering
if there was some solid info that would prevent me from doing this.
TURTLE
"Mark" <m...@privacy.net> wrote in message news:lgoh90p6ii5b221ii...@4ax.com...
This is Turtle.
Most all window shakers now days [ made in the last 15 years or so ] depend on the water in the back to help it cool in hot weather.
If the temperature in your area never goes over 90ºF you maybe get by without the water in the back but it will cost you a little
more on electricity cost to run it.
Now everytime I see or tell someone they could drill a hole in the back to let the water out. They drill a hole in the freon lines
and blow the freon out. With this thought in mine, Drill a hole in the back and then put you a rubber plug to take out when you want
to take it out of the window and replace it when you put it back in the window. The only problem would be getting a plug the right
size to fit the hole you have in it. The only one i seen that worked was a PVC fitting JB welded to the bottom back side and then
put a PVC plug to unscrew to let the water out. Now on most the have the metal base frame to go theough and the water is held in a
plastic pan. This will be the problem getting though the metal base and tie on to the plastic pan.
If all possible, try to live with the water in it every year and deal with.
TURTLE
---
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Mark
That's not a bad idea of using a plug. My only concern is that these unit are
not accessible from the outside ground and I'd have to dance with it in the
window opening to pull the drain plug.
I can run with this I think.......thanks!
Chuckles
news:lgoh90p6ii5b221ii...@4ax.com:
> I know that newer units don't have drain holes and the outside fan
> actually dips in to the water pan to assist in heat dispersement.
>
> My problem is that every damn fall, I end up getting some water on the
> rugs inside and it's cruddy rusty water. I try to tip the unit before
> bringing it in and get as much outside as possible, but I always end
> up getting some inside.
Put a towel or tarp on the carpet. How hard can that be?
HeatMan
condenser coil. This does 2 functions: 1) it helps cool the condenser
somewhat and 2) helps to prevent water dripping on something outside the
house.
Do what you want to the unit. Turtle makes some good suggestions, as do
others.
"Mark" <m...@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:lgoh90p6ii5b221ii...@4ax.com...
jeff
Hi,
A copy....
Q - My air conditioner never drips any water out the back, isn't it
suppose to?
A - *Most room air conditioners are designed NOT to drip water out the
back. The condenser fan blade has a ring built into it to pick up the
water and "sling" the water against the hot condenser tubing to help
keep the coils cooler when the unit is running.
This slinger can sometimes be heard "swooshing" the water around when
the fan is running. This is one way modern a/c are use less hydro be
reusing the cooler water to help cool the hot coils.
* Usually only larger unit's may have a drain spout on the back of the
a/c.
We see 5-6 units a year with a hole drilled through the refrigerant
tubing = BIG$$$ repair!!!!
jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/
Dan Hartung
> That's not a bad idea of using a plug. My only concern is that these unit are
> not accessible from the outside ground and I'd have to dance with it in the
> window opening to pull the drain plug.
My window AC had a similar problem due to rainwater coming off the
apartment block's roof. I could never get the landlord to really deal
with it (same idiots had the roof redone during thunderstorm season, but
that's another story), and eventually I just made a "handle" for the
damn thing using a special hinge where one plate recesses into the
other. When attached to a piece of equipment, it makes an uncomfortable
but usable (heck, twice a year) carrying handle. I found this sufficient
to allow me to tilt the whole box down and out enough to drain the pan
before bringing it inside, and the handle also made installation a much
easier one-person job.
I was inspired by my first AC, a so-called "portable" unit with a
plastic molded handle. It was puny, though.
I could never understand why they make the *smaller* ACs with handles,
but the *bigger* ACs with no handles at all. Unless it's all about the
profit from replacements when the AC falls out during installation ...
Stormin Mormon
another group. Showed where swamp coolers work (western US)
where they are iffy (central) and useless (Eastern states
and coastal CA/WA). If you have humid summers, the outdoor
wet cooling action is going to be minimal.
I've got two window shakers here in NY, and keep thinking
that someday I'm going to drill drain holes.
Like Turtle says, don't drill from the outside. Too easy to
hit a freon line.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com
"TURTLE" <tur...@worldnetla.net> wrote in message
news:c7b1n2$1m95o$3...@ID-79743.news.uni-berlin.de...
"Mark" <m...@privacy.net> wrote in message
m Ransley
fan fo splash water back on the coil. There are holes in the case but
the pan isnt supposed to drain so it is a water holding tray . Why not
put down a drop cloth or plastic and towels when removing it. Many
years ago I drilled a hole in my air conditioner case becase the other
holes were clogged and rusted, well I drilled into the coil, luckily I
got it resoldered for very cheap . But be carefull if you decide to
drill a hole. With the way they are now designed now I would not drill
a hole. Just make sure all are clean and you have it properly angled to
have proper design drainage
Mark
>I beleive newer units dont drain to increase efficiency by allowing the
>fan fo splash water back on the coil.
This is correct, however I'm wondering if lack of water will cause the unit to
overheat. I suspect not, just that the cooling may not be as efficient. I
also suspect that the "lesser efficient" colling will be unnoticeable to me.
>There are holes in the case but
>the pan isnt supposed to drain so it is a water holding tray . Why not
>put down a drop cloth or plastic and towels when removing it.
Because it's such a mess and I'd rather just yank them out and stuff them in
the closet. Also, by drilling a hole or two, this would get most/all of the
water out so I don't have anything stagnant sitting in the closet for months
growing mold.
>Many
>years ago I drilled a hole in my air conditioner case becase the other
>holes were clogged and rusted, well I drilled into the coil, luckily I
>got it resoldered for very cheap .
I'm surprised that it wasn't a throw-away since you'd also have to have the
system recharged again also. Fortunately for me, there is lots of space and I
don't think I could hit anything with my short bits even if I tried.
nicks...@ece.villanova.edu
with a rainwater supply hose to a downspout and wire some 1/2" vinyl tubing
with holes along the top of the condensor coil and put a 10 W fountain pump
in the drum to drip rainwater/condensate over the coils when it is running.
I've done this for 2 years now. The pump drops the total power from
050 to 950 W and the output air temp from 55 to 45 F. Prof Y. Goswami
at U Fl says this increases the COP by about 20%.
Nick
Stormin Mormon
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com
"Mark" <m...@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:ic2i90hvrb13s0jb9...@4ax.com...
Dan O.
>Mark wrote in message ...
>
>I know that newer units don't have drain holes and
>the outside fan actually dips in to the water pan to
>assist in heat dispersement.
>
>unit end up overheating ?
No but you will reduce it cooling ability which will increase energy
consumption and you could possibly hit a refrigerant line requiring
expensive repairs.
>My problem is that every damn fall, I end up
>getting some water on the rugs inside and
>it's cruddy rusty water. I try to tip the unit
>before bringing it in and get as much outside
>as possible, but I always end up getting some
>inside.
When you tip it, try also tipping it diagonally. The amount of water
which will be able to remain in just corner of the cabinet base should
be minimal. Also, you could tip it then put it back in place for
another week (without using it - except on fan) and the remaining
moisture may have a chance to evaporator or congeal to where it's not
so fluid to leak.
As an alternative, you could always put a drop cloth or newspapers
down, or even a large bucket you can drain the leftovers in to when
inside the room.
JMO
Dan O.
-
Appliance411.com
http://ng.Appliance411.com/?ref411=air+conditioner
=Ð~~~~~~
Mark
It's a PITA. There is a significant amount of water that comes out of these.
I've never had to deal with this water problem on older units.
Simply put, there's no need for it.
TURTLE
"jeff" <appl...@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:ec3e9984.04050...@posting.google.com...
This is Turtle.
Everything you say is correct but one on the water not coming out. Here is Louisiana when we have 100% RH / Humitity the window
units will just about run the water out in a pure stream. They will put out 1 to 3 gal. per hour of water a hour and the slinger
ring and coil will not use all the water. Now get off the Gulf Coast and all you say is true.
Now if you hit the right place in the back of the unit. Repairing it can be too high to even try to fix it.
Dan O.
>"jeff" wrote
>>
>> Q - My air conditioner never drips any water out the back, isn't it
>> suppose to?
>>
>> A - *Most room air conditioners are designed NOT to drip water out
the
>> back. The condenser fan blade has a ring built into it to pick up
the
>> water and "sling" the water against the hot condenser tubing to
help
>> keep the coils cooler when the unit is running.
>>
>> This slinger can sometimes be heard "swooshing" the water around
when
>> the fan is running. This is one way modern a/c are use less hydro
be
>> reusing the cooler water to help cool the hot coils.
>>
>> * Usually only larger unit's may have a drain spout on the back of
the
>> a/c.
> TURTLE wrote
>
> Everything you say is correct but one on the water
> not coming out. Here is Louisiana when we have
> 100% RH / Humitity the window units will just about
> run the water out in a pure stream. They will put out
> 1 to 3 gal. per hour of water a hour and the slinger
> ring and coil will not use all the water.
Hi Turtle,
I don't know what brand, type or size of window a/c you have but this
is a sample from the Fedders web site:
Fedders® X Chassis 5-8,000 BTU models - 1.4 *pints* per hour.
http://www.fedders.com/catalog/appliances/img/specs_fed_x.gif
Fedders® D Chassis 17,300 to 28,500 BTUs - 5.6 -10.2 *pints* per hour
http://www.fedders.com/catalog/appliances/img/specs_fed_d.gif
I agree that an air conditioner may not e able to evaporate all that
water but what is able to be used helps with the cooling and removing
it would make the unit less efficient at doing its job.
JFYI
Misplacedhippie
down the wall. 😞
--
Unquestionably Confused
anything else on this subject.
How about proper installation of the A/C unit. It's supposed to be
slightly tilted so that the water runs out of the unit onto the ground
or folks walking beneath it<g>
Uncle Monster
[8~{} Uncle Future Monster
micky
<puzz...@ameritech.net> wrote:
>On 6/7/2015 10:44 AM, Misplacedhippie wrote:
>> replying to Chuckles, Misplacedhippie wrote:
>>> me wrote:
>>>
>>> Mark <m...@privacy.net> wrote in
>>> news:lgoh90p6ii5b221ii...@4ax.com: Put a towel or tarp
>>> on the carpet. How hard can that be?
>>
>>
>> Putting a tarp or towel down won't do much good if the water is running
>
>Obviously a post out of the distant past since I can't seem to find
>anything else on this subject.
>
>How about proper installation of the A/C unit. It's supposed to be
>slightly tilted so that the water runs out of the unit onto the ground
>or folks walking beneath it<g>
outside end of the AC. And there is probably a provision for attaching
a small hose, to route the drip where the owner wants it. If no hole,
one could drill one there, but only if it's tipped like you say.
trader_4
Ed Pawlowski
Right, but pitching the AC properly will stop the drips. You don't
need a lot of pitch.
NEVER drill a hole. I've seen many an AC turned to junk in seconds
that way. People think they know better but end up poking a hole in
the coil.
Oren
<uncl...@gmail.com> wrote:
>time travel going on again. ^_^
>
>[8~{} Uncle Future Monster
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bS5P_LAqiVg>
Uncle Monster
[8~{} Uncle Laughing Monster
Oren
Uncle Monster
[8~{} Uncle Karate Monster
Oren
<uncl...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> >> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bS5P_LAqiVg>
>> >
>> >I had to stop watching because it hurt. I couldn't breath. ^_^
>> >
>> >[8~{} Uncle Laughing Monster
>>
>> The time travel started about 1/3 the way in, if you got the far.
>
>I finally watched the whole thing. A Swedish movie?!! LMFAO
like time travel action flicks :))
Uncle Monster
^_^
[8~{} Uncle Movie Monster
Uncle Monster
> wrote:
>
> >That's right. There probably is a hole in the water pan already at the
> >outside end of the AC. And there is probably a provision for attaching
> >a small hose, to route the drip where the owner wants it. If no hole,
> >one could drill one there, but only if it's tipped like you say.
>
> up on the condenser coil to aid cooling. You just need to be sure it
> is tilted down so the water gets to the outboard end.
I've used a shopvac to get the water out of them. There are a couple of little one gallon shop-vacs around the house that work very well for cleaning window units. Small vinyl tubing can be duct taped to the larger hose on the shop-vac when I need to get inside something to suck out the water. I also have my air compressor for blowing trash and water out of things. 8-)
[8~{} Uncle AC Monster
Stormin Mormon
> Right, but pitching the AC properly will stop the drips. You don't
> need a lot of pitch.
>
> NEVER drill a hole. I've seen many an AC turned to junk in seconds
> that way. People think they know better but end up poking a hole in
> the coil.
>
be instant death to AC units.
-
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.
Ed Pawlowski
> On 6/7/2015 2:46 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>> Right, but pitching the AC properly will stop the drips. You don't
>> need a lot of pitch.
>>
>> NEVER drill a hole. I've seen many an AC turned to junk in seconds
>> that way. People think they know better but end up poking a hole in
>> the coil.
>>
>
> Drain holes, and mounting screws can
> be instant death to AC units.
>
just watch.
micky
>On Sun, 07 Jun 2015 13:23:03 -0400, micky <NONONO...@bigfoot.com>
>wrote:
>
>>outside end of the AC. And there is probably a provision for attaching
>>a small hose, to route the drip where the owner wants it. If no hole,
>>one could drill one there, but only if it's tipped like you say.
>
I've dealt with a room AC. (Actually I knew only one -- I'd park
almost underneath the AC -- but my friend quit her job there.)
>up on the condenser coil to aid cooling. You just need to be sure it
>is tilted down so the water gets to the outboard end.
remember that stuff.
Stormin Mormon
otis
>
> I know that newer units don't have drain holes and the outside fan actually
> dips in to the water pan to assist in heat dispersement.
> My problem is that every damn fall, I end up getting some water on the rugs
> inside and it's cruddy rusty water. I try to tip the unit before bringing
it
> in and get as much outside as possible, but I always end up getting some
> inside.
> If I drill a hole to allow the water to drain, will the unit end up
> overheating ? I can't imagine it would since there is the possibility of
> these things running on hot days that aren't very humid - hence no or
minimal
> water being kicked back up.
> Any input is appreciated on this.
My issue is with the annoying noise made by the fan slinging water all
night. I can't sleep with all that nonsense going on. I drilled a hole and
the problem went away. Who cares about a little less efficiency or some
nominal shortening of the unit's life?? I'd rather sleep. If you flip over
the unit you will see a depression under the fan housing where the water
is intended to accumulate. That is where you want to drill. The only thing
you can hit is the plastic fan blade. It should just bump out of the way.
No risk.
--
Jim C
Had the same problem with a 12 k BTU LG unit. The same water it holds and
slings eventually turns to sludge. Mine was loud and would blow water drops
through the vent that blows the cold air.. The only fix I found was to remove
it and take it outside and clean all the sludge. The fans have sealed boxes
that hold it also and have to be wiped out until its gone. I had to keep
blasting it out with a garden hose and pushing a cloth inside small openings
in the fan boxes to remove it all or it will do the same thing in no time.
Regret ever buying it now.
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/window-a-c-unit-drill-holes-in-water-pan-521719-.htm
monkey
"If all possible, try to live with the water in it every year and deal with."
relatively brand new unit (2 yrs old) fail because of the bottom inch or so of
the rear coils oxidizing to the point of it freon leaking. Both the copper
pipe and the aluminum fins disintegrated into white and green paste!
Ed Pawlowski
> replying to TURTLE, monkey wrote:
> "If all possible, try to live with the water in it every year and deal
> with."
>
> What about the problem of the bottom of the coil "rusting out"? I've had a
> relatively brand new unit (2 yrs old) fail because of the bottom inch or
> so of
> the rear coils oxidizing to the point of it freon leaking. Both the copper
> pipe and the aluminum fins disintegrated into white and green paste!
>
water in the pan to get that much oxidation. I've never seen one go as
you describe.
Many a new AC was made into scrap by people drilling holes in the
bottom. 13 years later, the advice not to drill still holds.
Uncle Monster
> replying to TURTLE, monkey wrote:
> "If all possible, try to live with the water in it every year and deal with."
>
> What about the problem of the bottom of the coil "rusting out"? I've had a
> relatively brand new unit (2 yrs old) fail because of the bottom inch or so of
> the rear coils oxidizing to the point of it freon leaking. Both the copper
> pipe and the aluminum fins disintegrated into white and green paste!
> --
>
[8~{} Uncle Furry Monster
sirstv
Ok I have this type of unit and it’s pitched back but when I have it on
energy saver I throws a lot of water out where the air blows out and also runs
down the front where the filter is. I’ve put two large towels down on the
carpet but why should I need to do this? As usual the freakin power outlet is
directly below it. It has no drain holes on the bottom or the side and this is
Colorado where we don’t get high humidty. Heck we’re in a fire danger
since winter. If I turn it on and just let it run 24-7 it’s better but I
guess so much for the energy saver part so I don’t have to keep it on that
much. Why Is it the fan is forcing up water through the styrofoam airflow area
and why so much?
gfre...@aol.com
<caedfaa9ed1216d60ef...@example.com> wrote:
>replying to HeatMan, sirstv wrote:
>Ok I have this type of unit and it’s pitched back but when I have it on
>energy saver I throws a lot of water out where the air blows out and also runs
>down the front where the filter is. I’ve put two large towels down on the
>carpet but why should I need to do this? As usual the freakin power outlet is
>directly below it. It has no drain holes on the bottom or the side and this is
>Colorado where we don’t get high humidty. Heck we’re in a fire danger
>since winter. If I turn it on and just let it run 24-7 it’s better but I
>guess so much for the energy saver part so I don’t have to keep it on that
>much. Why Is it the fan is forcing up water through the styrofoam airflow area
>and why so much?
It cools more efficiently.
Bobby
You could have accumulated dirt in the pan that does not let the water run to
the back. Many an AC has been killed by drilling holes and hitting the coil.
Pitch it bakc more yoo.
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/re-window-a-c-unit-drill-holes-in-water-pan-1166269-.htm
James Riley
I'm in Colorado in a desert environment. A guest just complained about a
smell coming from the AC. I cleaned the filter. No joy. I found water in
the pan. Drilled two holes, one on either side of the coils in the bottom of
the pan. Water drained immediately. Put disinfectant/deodorizer in the pan
and all around. Smell stopped. Now, is my unit going to quit working or burn
up? Don't care about a higher electric bill as long as it doesn't smell and
it blows cold air. Thanks in advance for any comments.
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/window-a-c-unit-drill-holes-in-water-pan-521719-.htm
Ed Pawlowski
> replying to Mark, James Riley wrote:
> I'm in Colorado in a desert environment. A guest just complained about a
> smell coming from the AC. I cleaned the filter. No joy. I found water in
> the pan. Drilled two holes, one on either side of the coils in the
> bottom of
> the pan. Water drained immediately. Put disinfectant/deodorizer in the
> pan
> and all around. Smell stopped. Now, is my unit going to quit working
> or burn
> up? Don't care about a higher electric bill as long as it doesn't smell
> and
> it blows cold air. Thanks in advance for any comments.
supposed to sling the water on the coil to get rid of the water and help
cool the coil. The water is probably not flowing properly from a gunk
buildup inside. At least you did not hit the coil.
b0a769cf562f65b3...@example.com
--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/window-a-c-unit-drill-holes-in-water-pan-521719-.htm
Ed Pawlowski
coil. Then it is trash.
Draining the water can also diminish capacity as it acts as evaporative
cooling on the coil.