Do they make a rubbery paint for chipped refrigerator wire racks?

[Danny D.]

We're giving our old BBQ fridge away to a neighbor's kid who is heading
off to college.

The racks were slightly rusted from being outside for years, so I dunked
them in muriatic and phosphoric acid (in that order) and rinsed them well:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7379/9568891966_2d99e79f78_o.gif

Now the rust is gone, but, there is bare metal where the rust was.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7442/9566098377_36b55b169d_o.gif

What would you paint these with?
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7434/9568891862_47ba7ecdff_o.gif

[CRNG]

On Thu, 22 Aug 2013 06:50:20 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
<dan...@nowhere.com> wrote in <kv4cbc$i1l$1...@speranza.aioe.org> Re Do
they make a rubbery paint for chipped refrigerator wire racks?:

>What would you paint these with?
> http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7434/9568891862_47ba7ecdff_o.gif

I would use this
<http://www.plastidip.com/home_solutions/Plasti_Dip>
--
Web based forums are like subscribing to 10 different newspapers
and having to visit 10 different news stands to pickup each one.
Email list-server groups and USENET are like having all of those
newspapers delivered to your door every morning.

[The Daring Dufas]

It has actually been on the market for some time by at least one
manufacturer. ^_^

http://www.plastidip.com/home_solutions/ReRACK

http://www.amazon.com/Rerack-Dishwasher-Rack-Repair-630076/dp/B000WUBJZS

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2890818

TDD

[Danny D.]

The Daring Dufas wrote:

> http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2890818

That's a great idea!
Performix® Rerack® Dishwasher Rack Repair (630076)

A dishwasher would get wet all the time, just like my BBQ frig did,
so, it makes sense a dishwasher product would work.

I'll head on down to ACE today.

Thanks!

[Danny D.]

CRNG wrote:

> I would use this
> <http://www.plastidip.com/home_solutions/Plasti_Dip>

Now that I know the name, I'll look for it at either Ace or Home Depot today.
http://homedepot.com/p/Performix-Brand-11-oz-White-Plasti-Dip-Spray-6-Pack-11207-6/203545034

[Bob F]

Read the reviews first.

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2890818

[dadiOH]

"Danny D." <dan...@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:kv4cbc$i1l$1...@speranza.aioe.org

Personally, I wouldn't paint them. If you just have to, find a paint that
will withstand the temperature.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

[dadiOH]

"dadiOH" <dad...@invalid.com> wrote in message
news:kv5hub$sa2$2...@dont-email.me

> "Danny D." <dan...@nowhere.com> wrote in message
> news:kv4cbc$i1l$1...@speranza.aioe.org
> > We're giving our old BBQ fridge away to a neighbor's kid
> > who is heading off to college.
> >
> > The racks were slightly rusted from being outside for
> > years, so I dunked them in muriatic and phosphoric acid
> > (in that order) and rinsed them well:
> > http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7379/9568891966_2d99e79f78_o.gif
> >
> > Now the rust is gone, but, there is bare metal where the
> > rust was.
> > http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7442/9566098377_36b55b169d_o.gif
> >
> > What would you paint these with?
> > http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7434/9568891862_47ba7ecdff_o.gif
>
> Personally, I wouldn't paint them. If you just have to,
> find a paint that will withstand the temperature.

Forget it, I was thinking broiler racks :(

[Oren]

On Thu, 22 Aug 2013 06:50:20 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

<dan...@nowhere.com> wrote:

>We're giving our old BBQ fridge away to a neighbor's kid who is heading
>off to college.

Danny,

I'm confused. Is this a refrigerator that was converted to a BBQ
smoker? Or is BBQ fridge a brand name:)

[chaniarts]

or a fridge that was in the bbq island?

[Oren]

Aw, okay. That makes sense.

[Danny D.]

On Thu, 22 Aug 2013 11:20:55 -0700, Oren wrote:

> I'm confused. Is this a refrigerator that was converted to a BBQ
> smoker? Or is BBQ fridge a brand nam

Ooops. Sorry for not being clear.

It's an Avanti refrigerator.

It seems to be something like about 3.4 cubic feet or so.

It fit under the BBQ table. The door was broken, so it got wet inside
for a couple of years. No big deal but the steel racks rusted and the
coating cracked a bit.

I moved the hinge from one side to the other, and now it seems to
be working fine.

The biggest problem was this bar was all cracked up:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7390/9573678516_09e49e31b7_o.gif

So, I glued it with Elmers glue, spreading it about last night, and
letting the glue dry.

[Danny D.]

On Thu, 22 Aug 2013 11:44:56 -0700, chaniarts wrote:

> or a fridge that was in the bbq island?

Exactly!

The door was off (so nobody would get hurt) as the hinge was broken
(the grandkids used it as a swing).

I just moved the hinge from one side to the other, so now that the
door works, the only thing left was to clean up the thing.

I almost bought the dishwasher stuff at ACE, but, the ingredients were
similar to the much larger can for not much more of rubbery white stuff:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3738/9573665730_45d56d7d69_o.gif

This rubbery stuff had more chemicals, but, Methyle Ethyl Ketone and Xylene
were in both the rubbery things. Neither said anything about cold
temperatures though:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7397/9573666062_9de51c1d96_o.gif

So the first coat is on, and drying as we speak:
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2828/9573665914_3bcdecdf52_o.gif

Thanks for the advice!
(I've never used this stuff before; so I hope it works.)

[Danny D.]

On Thu, 22 Aug 2013 06:51:43 -0700, Bob F wrote:

> Read the reviews first.
> http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2890818

Thanks for the pointer to the reviews.
It looks like folks had a hard time because they didn't remove the rust
first.

What I did, for better or for worse, is yesterday I soaked in a bucket of
water with a couple of cups of strong muriatic acid, and then I liberally
coated the racks with Naval Jelly (Phosphoric Acid).
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7387/9568892060_e543e5ba73_o.gif

Then, when it dried in the sun, I liberally coated the entire rack with
glue (I thought it was Elmers but it was Loctite latex white stuff). I let
that dry overnight.

Today I was gonna buy the dishwasher stuff, but, it was only a buck or two
more for the rubbery stuff, so I bought the rubbery stuff instead.
Comparing ingredients, the dishwasher stuff had far fewer ingredients,
but, everything in the dishwasher stuff was also in the rubbery stuff.

I think the biggest problem will be these cracks:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/98287134@N02/9573678516/

Hopefully the glue will hold them together.

[chaniarts]

On 8/22/2013 3:47 PM, Danny D. wrote:
> On Thu, 22 Aug 2013 11:44:56 -0700, chaniarts wrote:
>
>> or a fridge that was in the bbq island?
>
> Exactly!
>
> The door was off (so nobody would get hurt) as the hinge was broken
> (the grandkids used it as a swing).
>
> I just moved the hinge from one side to the other, so now that the
> door works, the only thing left was to clean up the thing.
>
> I almost bought the dishwasher stuff at ACE, but, the ingredients were
> similar to the much larger can for not much more of rubbery white stuff:
> http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3738/9573665730_45d56d7d69_o.gif
>
> This rubbery stuff had more chemicals, but, Methyle Ethyl Ketone and Xylene
> were in both the rubbery things. Neither said anything about cold
> temperatures though:
> http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7397/9573666062_9de51c1d96_o.gif
>

MEK and xylene are the liquid carriers, and evaporate very fast (and are
why it says to not use near flames, since they are EXTREMELY flammable).

i used plastidip to make a handle on my sailboat tiller by dipping
enough timpes to make a 1/2" thick 6" long handle on the end of the
stick. it's lasted through strong sunlight and both salt and fresh water
for about 15 years now.

[Bob F]

My guess is that the glue will ve the biggest problem in this fix. It's not
going to survive the moisture.

[Danny D.]

Bob F wrote:

>> Hopefully the glue will hold them together.
>
> My guess is that the glue will ve the biggest problem in this fix. It's not
> going to survive the moisture.

Well, it might not. We'll see.

The biggest mistake I made was putting the racks to dry on the
cardboard box I painted them on. And then putting the second
rack on top of the painted racks to dry.

What happened was the thick white rubbery paint formed blobs at
the junction points.

So I scraped it off and the second time around I hung the
racks from wires.

It's in the frig now, ready to be handed over to the kid
for school. It's good enough for government work, or, as
Oren is fond of saying, it's looks fine from here.

Thanks for all the advice, as always (you guys are great).

[nestork]

Danny D.:

If you ever have to do that work again, then don't bother with paint;
just use white 2 inch wide lane marking tape.

Lane marking tape has a very strong adhesive, which is also water proof.
Also, lane marking tape itself is very strong because people walk on
it, and they use floor cleaning machines over the tape without it coming
off. And, it comes in various colours and various widths.

http://www.kaptonsource.com/images/color_lane.jpg

For example, with the rack shown in this photo:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7379/9568891966_2d99e79f78_o.gif

I'd just cut a piece of 2 inch wide white lane marking tape, and fold it
over the edge of the rack so that the tape is 7/8 inches wide along the
edge of the rack and the adhesive surfaces stick to each other between
the tynes of the rack.

PS1:

Someone mentioned MEK earlier.

MEK and acetone are both "Ketones". A ketone is anything with the
following structure...

A
|
C=O
|
B

Where A and B can be anything and C and O are Carbon and Oxygen atoms
respectively, with a double bond between them.

If both A and B are methyl groups (-CH3), then it's called "dimethyl
ketone", or "acetone" for short.

If A is a methyl group (-CH3) and B is an ethyl group (-CH2-CH3), then
it's called "methyl ethyl ketone", or "MEK" for short. Or, if you're
stoned, if A is the ethyl group and B is the methyl group, it's still
MEK.

So, acetone (which is nail polish remover) and MEK are chemical
siblings. MEK is acetone's big brother.

PS2:

Both carbon and silicon both form 4 covalent bonds. So, methane has a
chemical formula of CH4 cuz the carbon atom forms a covalent bond with
each of 4 hydrogen atoms.

Silicone also forms 4 covalent bonds, just like carbon, so chemists
wanted to know what they'd get if they used silicon instead of carbon to
make plastics.

The first successful plastic made from silicon was the silicon rubber
that we still use today as silicone caulk. Chemists noticed that the
number of oxygen atoms and the number of silicon atoms in the new
plastic were equal, and so there was some speculation that the structure
of the new plastic was that of a long ketone; like this:

|
Si=O
|
Si=O
|
Si=O
|

So, they combined the words "silicon" and "ketone" to name the new
plastic "silicone". That's why it's Silicon Valley, but it's silicon_e_
caulk.

Well, it turns out they got the structure of silicone rubber all wrong.
It turns out the real structure of silicone rubber is:

.......|
.......O
.......|
H3C-Si-CH3
.......|
.......O
.......|
H3C-Si-CH3
.......|
.......O
.......|
H3C-Si-CH3
.......|

(pardon the periods)

Basically, it's a -Si-O-Si-O-Si-O-Si-O-Si-O-Si-O backbone with two
methyl groups bonded to each silicon atom.

So, since it didn't look like a ketone after all, chemists quickly
renamed the plastic "di methyl siloxane", but everyone still calls it
"silicone" cuz the original name stuck. So, if you see anything with
the word "siloxane" in it's name, it means it's a silicon based
plastic.

Dow Corning has a section on it's web site explaining the chemistry and
properties of silicones, or more correctly, siloxanes:
'Fascinating Silicones - Dow Corning'
(http://www.dowcorning.com/content/discover/?e=)




--
nestork

[The Daring Dufas]

On 8/25/2013 2:17 AM, nestork wrote:
>
> Danny D.:
>
> If you ever have to do that work again, then don't bother with paint;
> just use white 2 inch wide lane marking tape.
>
> Lane marking tape has a very strong adhesive, which is also water proof.
> Also, lane marking tape itself is very strong because people walk on
> it, and they use floor cleaning machines over the tape without it coming
> off. And, it comes in various colours and various widths.
>
> http://www.kaptonsource.com/images/color_lane.jpg
>
> For example, with the rack shown in this photo:
> http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7379/9568891966_2d99e79f78_o.gif
>
> I'd just cut a piece of 2 inch wide white lane marking tape, and fold it
> over the edge of the rack so that the tape is 7/8 inches wide along the
> edge of the rack and the adhesive surfaces stick to each other between
> the tynes of the rack.
>

Very strong adhesive uh? I wonder how it would do to tape someone's
mouth shut? I can see a "hole" new industry develop around it. ^_^

TDD

[k...@attt.bizz]

Thinking of harry again? Fingers, man!

[The Daring Dufas]

Actually my roommate and his psychotic Beagle. They make more noise than
a whole crowd at a football game. O_o

TDD

[Oren]

On Sun, 25 Aug 2013 04:28:11 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
<Dan...@is.invalid> wrote:

> It's good enough for government work, or, as
>Oren is fond of saying, it's looks fine from here.

Danny jump in the thread " garage door tension rod is shifting".

I suggested the OP follow things that you did. It all looked good from
my house.

[Danny D.]

nestork wrote:

> Lane marking tape has a very strong adhesive, which is also water proof.
> Also, lane marking tape itself is very strong because people walk on
> it, and they use floor cleaning machines over the tape without it coming
> off. And, it comes in various colours and various widths.
>
> http://www.kaptonsource.com/images/color_lane.jpg

I like the idea of the lane-marking tape for a wholly different reason.
There is a private road nearby, where my friend, who lives on that
private road, loudly commiserated with me that he wished people would
stay on their side of the narrow road (which has one sharp blind curve).

We discussed a cheap way of keeping people on their side, and we were
going to paint a stripe down the middle - but - the lane marking tape
seems like a better idea.

Does it bend around a typical sharp curve in a road?

(I don't know how to describe the radius but cars go around it at about
20 mph and they can't see each other until it's too late.)

[Danny D.]

Oren wrote:

> Danny jump in the thread " garage door tension rod is shifting".

Done.

[nestork]

'Danny D.[_10_ Wrote:
> ]

> I like the idea of the lane-marking tape for a wholly different reason.
> There is a private road nearby, where my friend, who lives on that
> private road, loudly commiserated with me that he wished people would
> stay on their side of the narrow road (which has one sharp blind
> curve).
>
> We discussed a cheap way of keeping people on their side, and we were
> going to paint a stripe down the middle - but - the lane marking tape
> seems like a better idea.
>
> Does it bend around a typical sharp curve in a road?
>
> (I don't know how to describe the radius but cars go around it at about
> 20 mph and they can't see each other until it's too late.)

For something like that, you'd be better off with "pavement marking
tape", which would be much more weather and UV resistant.

http://tinyurl.com/mxyq6f2

But, the least expensive way to do it would be to use a 3 inch paint
roller sleeve to paint a stripe down the middle of the road using
pavement striping paint:

http://tinyurl.com/n2hf366

Centerline Supply makes pavement marking paint in various colours, but
you could almost certainly order the stuff from any of your local paint
stores.

Paints used for marking highways or parking lots will be thinned with
alcohol so that they dry very rapidly, and so they can be thinned with
alcohol for spraying.

Painting the stripe on with a 3 inch roller sleeve would be the fastest
easiest and cheapest way to do it, and would probably last longer than
tape too.




--
nestork

[The Daring Dufas]

Around here, the city puts a big mirrors and sometimes a flashing
caution light at blind curves but you write that it's a private road.
Installing a safety mirror might be easier than striping the road. O_o

http://www.trafficmirror.com/

TDD

[Danny D.]

The Daring Dufas wrote:

> Around here, the city puts a big mirrors and sometimes a flashing
> caution light at blind curves but you write that it's a private road.
> Installing a safety mirror might be easier than striping the road.

It has to be cheap.

We figured paint would be cheaper than mirrors (which can be stolen
and which have to be in a footing).

If we could find a really cheap (like $20) source for mirrors, that
might make a difference though.

[Danny D.]

nestork wrote:

> But, the least expensive way to do it would be to use a 3 inch paint
> roller sleeve to paint a stripe down the middle of the road using
> pavement striping paint:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/n2hf366

This makes the most sense, cost wise!

[beverly]

replying to Danny D. , beverly wrote:

> DannyD wrote:
>
> Now that I know the name, I'll look for it at either Ace or Home Depot
today.
>
http://homedepot.com/p/Performix-Brand-11-oz-White-Plasti-Dip-Spray-6-Pack-11207-6/203545034

hi, i have a refrigerator with rusted chrome plated racks. does anyone
know if there is paint for that?

--

[Dan Espen]

No paint will adhere to chrome.

Nice thing about the internet, you can find replacement parts for almost
everything. Get some nice new replacement racks.

--
Dan Espen

[Micky]

I"m hearing that aluminum foil is great for removing rust. Use the
shiny side one guy said. If they look good after you finish, spray
with some clear coating. Let dry extra well before you put in t he
cold refrigerator

And of course rust won't hurt anything. You're concerned about
aesthetics, right?

[RealP...@none.com]

On Mon, 26 Oct 2015 15:10:26 -0400, Dan Espen <des...@verizon.net>
wrote:

>No paint will adhere to chrome.

I dont agree. I had a car some years ago, and someome before I bought
the car, spray painted the chrome bumpers black. (Dont ask me why, cuz I
dont know). I tried to scrape it off, and that did not work. I
considered using paint remover but feared I'd damage the car's finish.

I decided to paint the bumpers with some chrome like spray paint which
is a highly shiny silver. That worked fine. I dont know how long it
lasted because I sold the car a few months later.

[Dan Espen]

Seemed to me like chrome would offer nothing for the paint to grab on
to. I'd still go with finding replacement shelves and replacing.

--
Dan Espen

[Ed Pawlowski]

On 10/27/2015 9:37 AM, RealP...@none.com wrote:

>
> I dont agree. I had a car some years ago, and someome before I bought
> the car, spray painted the chrome bumpers black. (Dont ask me why, cuz I
> dont know).

Former owner was probably a Black Bumper Mennonite. If the car had
whitewalls the tires would have been turned around. They were allowed to
use the automobile, but it had to be plain, this the chrome covered.

[Colonel Edmund J. Burke]

Only a stoopid asshole paints chrome.