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self built carport?
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Mike
Apr 29, 2015, 7:26:52 PM4/29/15
to
I'm interested in build a carport as practice for building two
porches. The home owner states that the carport is to be about 22'
wide and 26' long. Big enough for a Toyota Rav4 and a Chevy Express
2500 van.
I understand putting posts in the ground to support the structure
at the corners. Because of the lengths of the respective sides, do
I also needs posts in the middle of each side to support 2"x8"
lumber? That would make eight posts in all of 4"x4" pressure treated
lumber. If I do add a post in the middle of each side, how do I
join (or do I) the joists at the center post?
I plan to make a simple gable with 1"x4" purloins for corrugated
roofing. All the lumber where possible should be pressure treated.
There will be no electricity or other grid services in this carport.
Just a place to put a car out of the weather.
Other than my massive inexperience with this, what else should I
consider and research?
TIA
Mike
porches. The home owner states that the carport is to be about 22'
wide and 26' long. Big enough for a Toyota Rav4 and a Chevy Express
2500 van.
I understand putting posts in the ground to support the structure
at the corners. Because of the lengths of the respective sides, do
I also needs posts in the middle of each side to support 2"x8"
lumber? That would make eight posts in all of 4"x4" pressure treated
lumber. If I do add a post in the middle of each side, how do I
join (or do I) the joists at the center post?
I plan to make a simple gable with 1"x4" purloins for corrugated
roofing. All the lumber where possible should be pressure treated.
There will be no electricity or other grid services in this carport.
Just a place to put a car out of the weather.
Other than my massive inexperience with this, what else should I
consider and research?
TIA
Mike
philo
Apr 29, 2015, 7:43:49 PM4/29/15
to
few posts. Be sure you understand the concept of triangulation.
Simple example here
http://gardenplansfree.com/storage/carport-plans-free/
Mike
Apr 29, 2015, 7:53:26 PM4/29/15
to
On 2015-04-29, philo <ph...@privacy.net> wrote:
>
> Though hardly rocket science, not quite as simple as just putting up a
> few posts. Be sure you understand the concept of triangulation.
>
>
> Simple example here
>
>
> http://gardenplansfree.com/storage/carport-plans-free/
Great resource. Thank you.
>
> Though hardly rocket science, not quite as simple as just putting up a
> few posts. Be sure you understand the concept of triangulation.
>
>
> Simple example here
>
>
> http://gardenplansfree.com/storage/carport-plans-free/
Mike
philo
Apr 29, 2015, 7:56:50 PM4/29/15
to
I have no garage or car port here.
Have to deal with snow and ice in the winter.
bob haller
Apr 29, 2015, 8:30:25 PM4/29/15
to
does it snow heavily where you are? how about hurricanes and or tornadoes?
building this may make you responsible for any damages to vehicles under it.
some friends had both of their vehicles totaled when heavy snow collapsed their steel carport.
over build it for the bad day
John G
Apr 29, 2015, 8:45:35 PM4/29/15
to
John Grabowski
http://www. MrElectrician.TV
cl...@snyder.on.ca
Apr 29, 2015, 9:51:28 PM4/29/15
to
On Wed, 29 Apr 2015 17:30:22 -0700 (PDT), bob haller <hal...@aol.com>
wrote:
I'd start with 6X6 instead of 4X4
wrote:
cl...@snyder.on.ca
Apr 29, 2015, 9:52:50 PM4/29/15
to
from many sources.
Ralph Mowery
Apr 29, 2015, 9:57:06 PM4/29/15
to
"philo" <ph...@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:mhrr21$18c$1...@dont-email.me...
> On 04/29/2015 06:52 PM, Mike wrote:
>
> I have no garage or car port here.
>
> Have to deal with snow and ice in the winter.
One of my beter moves was to get a house with a garage. Never knew how good
>
> I have no garage or car port here.
>
> Have to deal with snow and ice in the winter.
it was to go to the car in the winter and not have to scrape the ice off the
windows and get the groceries out of the car when it was raining.
This is in NC where we don't have that much snow and ice either.
philo
Apr 29, 2015, 10:01:56 PM4/29/15
to
I finally figured out that the only way to deal with clearing the
windshield is to simply go out, start the car and turn on the defroster
full blast.
Then do the shoveling and by the time I'm done, the windows are all clear.
Now that I'm retired nothing has got to be done in a hurry.
philo
Apr 29, 2015, 10:06:24 PM4/29/15
to
On 04/29/2015 08:51 PM, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
X
<snip>
> I'd start with 6X6 instead of 4X4
>
overkill
a /single/ 4x4 can support several tons
X
<snip>
> I'd start with 6X6 instead of 4X4
>
a /single/ 4x4 can support several tons
cl...@snyder.on.ca
Apr 29, 2015, 11:16:44 PM4/29/15
to
easily. The 6X6 is significantly stronger The end to end rigidity
isn't hard - you can triangulate, but the wind loading is higher in
the crosswize direction due to roof area, and you can't triangulate as
well and still have opening for entry/egress.
The only carports I've ever seen with 4X4 posts were fastened to the
side of a building or had more structure than just posts. (like a
"cube" shed at one end.. They also have a well cross-braced roof
framework -
rbowman
Apr 30, 2015, 12:35:54 AM4/30/15
to
On 04/29/2015 09:16 PM, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
> The only carports I've ever seen with 4X4 posts were fastened to the
> side of a building or had more structure than just posts. (like a
> "cube" shed at one end.. They also have a well cross-braced roof
> framework -
There were some sketchy carports in San Antonio, TX. Then they had one
> The only carports I've ever seen with 4X4 posts were fastened to the
> side of a building or had more structure than just posts. (like a
> "cube" shed at one end.. They also have a well cross-braced roof
> framework -
of those freak snowfalls and the all fell down. I haven't been following
the thread but is the OP designing for snow?
Bob F
Apr 30, 2015, 12:58:11 AM4/30/15
to
philo wrote:
> I live in Wisconsin and there is plenty of snow and ice.
>
> I finally figured out that the only way to deal with clearing the
> windshield is to simply go out, start the car and turn on the
> defroster full blast.
>
>
> Then do the shoveling and by the time I'm done, the windows are all
> clear.
>
> Now that I'm retired nothing has got to be done in a hurry.
An extension cord and a cheap electric heater/fan does that job very well.
> I live in Wisconsin and there is plenty of snow and ice.
>
> I finally figured out that the only way to deal with clearing the
> windshield is to simply go out, start the car and turn on the
> defroster full blast.
>
>
> Then do the shoveling and by the time I'm done, the windows are all
> clear.
>
> Now that I'm retired nothing has got to be done in a hurry.
philo
Apr 30, 2015, 4:28:08 AM4/30/15
to
philo
Apr 30, 2015, 4:33:46 AM4/30/15
to
Also as mentioned below snow could be a factor.
that said, it looks like the OP with the extension of ".cx" on his
post...is in Christmas Island.
Mayhem
Apr 30, 2015, 4:37:45 AM4/30/15
to
On 04/29/2015 07:43 PM, philo wrote:
>
> Though hardly rocket science, not quite as simple as just putting up a few posts. Be sure you understand the concept of triangulation.
>
>
> Simple example here
>
>
> http://gardenplansfree.com/storage/carport-plans-free/
Bwahahahahahhhaaaaaaaaa! That carport wouldn't last a year where I live.
>
> Though hardly rocket science, not quite as simple as just putting up a few posts. Be sure you understand the concept of triangulation.
>
>
> Simple example here
>
>
> http://gardenplansfree.com/storage/carport-plans-free/
Don Phillipson
Apr 30, 2015, 8:14:05 AM4/30/15
to
"Mike" <mi...@mikee.ath.cx> wrote in message
news:mhrp9r$qji$1...@dont-email.me...
In most places, any permanent structure requires a building permit.
In many places, local colleges provide classes in house-building
methods (both masonry and wood.)
--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)
news:mhrp9r$qji$1...@dont-email.me...
In many places, local colleges provide classes in house-building
methods (both masonry and wood.)
--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)
HerHusband
Apr 30, 2015, 10:41:12 AM4/30/15
to
Mike,
> I'm interested in build a carport as practice for building two
> porches. The home owner states that the carport is to be about 22'
> wide and 26' long. Big enough for a Toyota Rav4 and a Chevy Express
> 2500 van.
> I understand putting posts in the ground to support the structure
> at the corners.
If you're putting posts in the ground, you would be building something
more like a pole barn. Around here our local building department has
plans for free and does not require a building permit for them. Since the
wood contacts the soil they are not considered permanent structures
(eventually the posts will rot, even if pressure treated).
Normally, a carport would begin with a concrete slab, then the structure
would be built on top of the slad. The slab would be typically be a
monolithic pour with deepened footings on the perimeter to support the
posts/walls. However, in areas with deep frost lines, it may be easier to
pour separate footings first, then pour the slab later.
> Because of the lengths of the respective sides, do I also needs posts
> in the middle of each side to support 2"x8" lumber? That would make
> eight posts in all of 4"x4" pressure treated lumber. If I do add a post
> in the middle of each side, how do I join (or do I) the joists at the
> center post?
In the simplest of terms, you will need a post base at the bottom of each
post. This ties the post to the slab/foundation and elevates the post to
prevent moisture from wicking up.
Then you'll need a column cap at the top of each post. This secures the
beam to the post, as well as giving you a way to tie two beam segments
over a single post.
You'll also need rafter ties at each rafter/truss to tie the roof to the
beams.
Remember, an open carport can have a lot of wind pressure blowing from
underneath. You don't want the roof to blow off in strong winds, so
everything will need to be tied together, from the foundation all the way
up to the roof.
I did not take the time to calculate any loads to determine what beam
sizes you'll need.
> I plan to make a simple gable with 1"x4" purloins for corrugated
> roofing. All the lumber where possible should be pressure treated.
Prefabricated roof trusses would probably be cheapest and easiest for a
structure of that size.
You'll also need to brace the structure, typically with diagonal braces
or solid plywood at the corners, to prevent the structure from racking.
> Other than my massive inexperience with this, what else should I
> consider and research?
In most areas, if you are not building the structure for your own use,
you will need to be licensed and insured as a contractor. In other words,
if the structure falls and damages your own cars, that's your problem. If
you build a structure for someone else and it collapses, you could be
responsible for the damage and injuries.
You might compare the costs of building a garage instead of a carport. In
some ways it will be easier to build, and it would be much more useful
than a carport (storage, weather protection, workshop, etc.).
Most of all, study, study, study before you start anything!
Good luck,
Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com
> I'm interested in build a carport as practice for building two
> porches. The home owner states that the carport is to be about 22'
> wide and 26' long. Big enough for a Toyota Rav4 and a Chevy Express
> 2500 van.
> I understand putting posts in the ground to support the structure
> at the corners.
more like a pole barn. Around here our local building department has
plans for free and does not require a building permit for them. Since the
wood contacts the soil they are not considered permanent structures
(eventually the posts will rot, even if pressure treated).
Normally, a carport would begin with a concrete slab, then the structure
would be built on top of the slad. The slab would be typically be a
monolithic pour with deepened footings on the perimeter to support the
posts/walls. However, in areas with deep frost lines, it may be easier to
pour separate footings first, then pour the slab later.
> Because of the lengths of the respective sides, do I also needs posts
> in the middle of each side to support 2"x8" lumber? That would make
> eight posts in all of 4"x4" pressure treated lumber. If I do add a post
> in the middle of each side, how do I join (or do I) the joists at the
> center post?
post. This ties the post to the slab/foundation and elevates the post to
prevent moisture from wicking up.
Then you'll need a column cap at the top of each post. This secures the
beam to the post, as well as giving you a way to tie two beam segments
over a single post.
You'll also need rafter ties at each rafter/truss to tie the roof to the
beams.
Remember, an open carport can have a lot of wind pressure blowing from
underneath. You don't want the roof to blow off in strong winds, so
everything will need to be tied together, from the foundation all the way
up to the roof.
I did not take the time to calculate any loads to determine what beam
sizes you'll need.
> I plan to make a simple gable with 1"x4" purloins for corrugated
> roofing. All the lumber where possible should be pressure treated.
structure of that size.
You'll also need to brace the structure, typically with diagonal braces
or solid plywood at the corners, to prevent the structure from racking.
> Other than my massive inexperience with this, what else should I
> consider and research?
you will need to be licensed and insured as a contractor. In other words,
if the structure falls and damages your own cars, that's your problem. If
you build a structure for someone else and it collapses, you could be
responsible for the damage and injuries.
You might compare the costs of building a garage instead of a carport. In
some ways it will be easier to build, and it would be much more useful
than a carport (storage, weather protection, workshop, etc.).
Most of all, study, study, study before you start anything!
Good luck,
Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com
cl...@snyder.on.ca
Apr 30, 2015, 12:39:44 PM4/30/15
to
cl...@snyder.on.ca
Apr 30, 2015, 12:40:32 PM4/30/15
to
On Wed, 29 Apr 2015 22:36:08 -0600, rbowman <bow...@erewhon.com>
wrote:
How about for a "plow wind" or microburst? Don't want it to end up in
the next county.
wrote:
the next county.
micky
Apr 30, 2015, 1:43:45 PM4/30/15
to
http://gardenplansfree.com/storage/carport-plans-free/
shows bracing parallel to the length, but none across the width. It
shows the same thing in 7 sketches. Makes me doublt the whole url.
Unless I missed it, doesn't say how deep the posts should go either.
Depth is probably more important than concrete.
Bob F
Apr 30, 2015, 9:06:21 PM4/30/15
to
snowboarding.
philo
Apr 30, 2015, 9:25:31 PM4/30/15
to
On 04/30/2015 08:06 PM, Bob F wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Being retired, if the weather is bad, I simply don't go out.
>
> Being retired, if the weather is bad (in the winter), I go skiing or
> snowboarding.
>
>
On the very rare days when the city is shut down due to snow.
>
>>
>>
>> Being retired, if the weather is bad, I simply don't go out.
>
> Being retired, if the weather is bad (in the winter), I go skiing or
> snowboarding.
>
>
I can cross-country ski right down the middle of the road.
It's been many years since I've done that.
rbowman
Apr 30, 2015, 10:27:01 PM4/30/15
to
On 04/30/2015 10:40 AM, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
> How about for a "plow wind" or microburst? Don't want it to end up in
> the next county.
I had one of those microbursts disassemble my polymer shed last summer.
> How about for a "plow wind" or microburst? Don't want it to end up in
> the next county.
It was a pain in the ass finding the pieces and putting it back
together. Of course, it was raining too, so anything in a cardboard box
was soaked.
The shed 8' away that had been getting ready to collapse for the last 20
years was fine.
Jerr...@spamblocked.com
Apr 30, 2015, 11:28:07 PM4/30/15
to
On Wed, 29 Apr 2015 23:25:47 +0000 (UTC), Mike <mi...@mikee.ath.cx>
wrote:
22 foot span definitely will need center posts, unle3ss you buy trusses
made to support a 22 foot span. And try to buy 22 foor 2x8s. Most
places only sell up to 16', but a real lumber yard may have up to 20'
and will be costly. 22' is really pushing the limit. You'll need 12'
joined in the center. (cut to 11').
A building that size should have 6x6 posts, not 4x4s.
I suggest you get some pre-made plans and follow them, since you seem to
not know how to build something like that.
Personally, if you're gonna build something that big, I'd make it a
garage. Carports still drift full of snow in winter, and most
"carports" are just small roofed, open sided sheds big enough for one
vehicle. And why 26' long? Most cars and pickup trucks are not over 16'
long.
wrote:
made to support a 22 foot span. And try to buy 22 foor 2x8s. Most
places only sell up to 16', but a real lumber yard may have up to 20'
and will be costly. 22' is really pushing the limit. You'll need 12'
joined in the center. (cut to 11').
A building that size should have 6x6 posts, not 4x4s.
I suggest you get some pre-made plans and follow them, since you seem to
not know how to build something like that.
Personally, if you're gonna build something that big, I'd make it a
garage. Carports still drift full of snow in winter, and most
"carports" are just small roofed, open sided sheds big enough for one
vehicle. And why 26' long? Most cars and pickup trucks are not over 16'
long.
bob haller
Apr 30, 2015, 11:38:31 PM4/30/15
to
a friend had 2 vehicles in his carport when we had a bad snow.
that resulted in a scrapper coming to tow away the 2 totaled vehicles, and the failed carport/
Jerr...@spamblocked.com
May 1, 2015, 12:16:09 AM5/1/15
to
On Wed, 29 Apr 2015 23:16:42 -0400, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
>>> I'd start with 6X6 instead of 4X4
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>overkill
>>
>>
>>a /single/ 4x4 can support several tons
> Yes it can, but a good gust of wind off the side can snap a 4x4 quite
>easily. The 6X6 is significantly stronger The end to end rigidity
>isn't hard - you can triangulate, but the wind loading is higher in
>the crosswize direction due to roof area, and you can't triangulate as
>well and still have opening for entry/egress.
>
> The only carports I've ever seen with 4X4 posts were fastened to the
>side of a building or had more structure than just posts. (like a
>"cube" shed at one end.. They also have a well cross-braced roof
>framework -
I agree with the 6x6s. I built a shed for horses. It was 30 ft long and
>>> I'd start with 6X6 instead of 4X4
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>overkill
>>
>>
>>a /single/ 4x4 can support several tons
> Yes it can, but a good gust of wind off the side can snap a 4x4 quite
>easily. The 6X6 is significantly stronger The end to end rigidity
>isn't hard - you can triangulate, but the wind loading is higher in
>the crosswize direction due to roof area, and you can't triangulate as
>well and still have opening for entry/egress.
>
> The only carports I've ever seen with 4X4 posts were fastened to the
>side of a building or had more structure than just posts. (like a
>"cube" shed at one end.. They also have a well cross-braced roof
>framework -
12 ft. wide. It was split into 3 parts, (11 ft one each end, and 8 ft
in the middle.) The 11 x12 ends were open on one side so the horses
could go in an out as they pleased. The middle 8 x 12 section was closed
on all sides with a door and was intended for saddles ropes buckets, and
other horse tack and supplies.
I used 4x4 posts (eight of them). I had just finished it, and just put
on the door in the middle. All that had to be done was put some shelves
in that middle section, and the horses were already using the ends.
That night there was a very severe storm. Five of the 4x4's snapped off
the other three pulled out of the freshly packed soil (no concrete was
used). The entire building lannded upside-down, about 40 feet away,
which also ripped down at least 100 feet of fencing that was attached to
the shed. Because I built it strong, the entire structure stayed
together, leaving a complete building laying on it's roof. but with 5
posts broken off, much of the pole barn metal torn and/or badly dented,
mangled fencing everywhere, and several horses injured, but luckily none
were injured real badly. All horses were loose, the stallion was running
with the mares, but he was so scared that he did not breed any of them.
(He was the one hurt the worst too). They just huddled together for
security, in the yard, and under some trees.
The weather bureau claimed it was probably an isolated small (skipping)
tornado, but they were not able to prove it it was a tornado or not. Our
house (100 ft away and several neighboring buildings, had shingled
ripped off parts of the roof, some broken windows and other damages.
Two farms away there was no damage. But about a mile away , and several
more miles there were similar damages. (Thus the skipping).
My point is this: If I had used 6x6's, and put concrete around the
posts, I think it would have stayed intact. Of course I'll never really
know...... But with those open sides, and the wind came from that
direction, it just became like a plastic bag, where the wind blows into
the end and carrys it away. If it was not for a sturdy metal kids swing
set which appeared to stop it, the whole shed may have crashed into the
house.
BTW: It took a crane to upright it and get it back to where it belonged.
Plus new posts and much of the metal on the roof had to be replaced.
philo
May 1, 2015, 6:24:16 AM5/1/15
to
On 04/30/2015 11:12 PM, Jerr...@spamblocked.com wrote:
>
> The weather bureau claimed it was probably an isolated small (skipping)
> tornado, but they were not able to prove it it was a tornado or not. Our
> house (100 ft away and several neighboring buildings, had shingled
> ripped off parts of the roof, some broken windows and other damages.
> Two farms away there was no damage. But about a mile away , and several
> more miles there were similar damages. (Thus the skipping).
>
> My point is this: If I had used 6x6's, and put concrete around the
> posts, I think it would have stayed intact. Of course I'll never really
> know...... But with those open sides, and the wind came from that
> direction, it just became like a plastic bag, where the wind blows into
> the end and carrys it away. If it was not for a sturdy metal kids swing
> set which appeared to stop it, the whole shed may have crashed into the
> house.
>
> BTW: It took a crane to upright it and get it back to where it belonged.
> Plus new posts and much of the metal on the roof had to be replaced.
>
If it was a tornado, I doubt if even 6 x 6's would have stood up.
>
> The weather bureau claimed it was probably an isolated small (skipping)
> tornado, but they were not able to prove it it was a tornado or not. Our
> house (100 ft away and several neighboring buildings, had shingled
> ripped off parts of the roof, some broken windows and other damages.
> Two farms away there was no damage. But about a mile away , and several
> more miles there were similar damages. (Thus the skipping).
>
> My point is this: If I had used 6x6's, and put concrete around the
> posts, I think it would have stayed intact. Of course I'll never really
> know...... But with those open sides, and the wind came from that
> direction, it just became like a plastic bag, where the wind blows into
> the end and carrys it away. If it was not for a sturdy metal kids swing
> set which appeared to stop it, the whole shed may have crashed into the
> house.
>
> BTW: It took a crane to upright it and get it back to where it belonged.
> Plus new posts and much of the metal on the roof had to be replaced.
>
Reminds me of the time my friend built a 2x4 stall for his (immature)
bull, then ask me to help him shove pills in it's mouth.
It ran through the stall like it was made of paper.
Next week he conned me into helping him again and made the stall out of
4x4's and it looked damn sturdy to me.
No problem, the bull just kicked out the side of the barn and left the
scene.
I did not bother to help my friend again.
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