framing wall on sloped floor --- where to shim?
fixhouse
concrete) is sloped.
For instance, in one 8' section of the basement where I want to frame
a wall, distance from floor to bottom of ceiling joist transitions
from 76 1/2" to 75 3/4". This is due to floor sloping.
Question: Should I build the 8' wall in place with different height
studs? Or should I build a square wall on the floor 1 1/2" too short
(in the shortest section) and then stand the wall into place and slide
in a second top plate? With this method I will need to shim the wall
pretty dramatically. Even with a double top plate, there will be a
gap of around 3/4" on one end. I am using 3" framing nails.
Another possibility is to build a non-square wall on the floor and
again use a double top place. This is probably the easiest thing for
me to do; the only awkward aspect is that the wall I be assembling on
the floor will not be square. This method will not require shimming
if I measure correctly.
Thanks,
michael
Don Young
adjusting the stud lengths as needed. Securing the top and bottom plates is
much faster and adjusting the studs is faster than fitting and securing
shims.There is no advantage to a square wall shimmed to fit an unsquare
space unless you intend to level the floor.
Don Young
"fixhouse" <herro...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
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hardware stores.. level the area where the bottom part of the wall is
going to be and then just frame up the wall like its normal....
Bill Schnakenberg
I built the stud wall for my entire basement in place. Nailed the top
plate to the joists, concrete nail gunned the floor plate to the
concrete and then measured, cut, and toe-nailed individual studs between
the plates.
There's just too much room for error when trying to fit floor built
framing up against a wall with a top and bottom limit.
Jay Chan
If you are going to level the floor, you may want to level the floor
first before putting up the frame. Otherwise, I can see these possible
shortcomings:
- If you only plan to finish part of the basement and only frame that
area, you will find that framing that area first will make your task
of leveling that area difficult because your back or elbows will be
against the framed wall when you are trying to level the area near the
framed wall.
- You may have problem nailing the baseboard trim or quarter round
into the bottom framing wood in area where you have raised the floor
with leveling compound or concrete. The nail can easily miss the mark.
You may need to add wood block on top of the bottom framing wood as a
nailer to get around with this problem.
- Leveling compound or concrete may enclose the side of some of the
bottom frame. This makes the bottom framing wood to retain moisture
longer than it would be otherwise (in case we have a slight moisture
coming up from the basement floor), and may not allow the bottom
framing wood to dry. That may or may not be a problem.
If you don't intend to level the floor, you may want to frame it in
place instead of preparing the frame on the floor and raise it up. The
reason is that the floor may be going up and down having many small
peaks and valleys and is not in a gentle slope, and this is hard to
tell if the floor has peaks and valleys without using a spring or a
long piece of straight wood (I cannot tell just by my eyes). If we
prepare the frame on the floor, we may find that the frame may get
stuck at the bottom middle section because the floor has a small peak
in that area. On the other hand, if the floor is smooth and has a
gentle slope, you may be able to prepare the unsquare frame on the
floor and raise it up (following one of the tip that Tom in "This Old
House" suggested to prepare an unsquare frame). This is probably
easier and faster this way (I haven't tried this myself).
Hope this helps.
Jay Chan
Bob(but not that Bob)
A paltry 3/4" variance over 8 ft. "dramatic"?
You haven't dealt with many old houses I'd bet!
Build it in place with every stud custom cut.
Chris Lewis
> fixhouse wrote:
> A paltry 3/4" variance over 8 ft. "dramatic"?
> You haven't dealt with many old houses I'd bet!
Even new houses this isn't particularly unusual.
Our previous house had everything 1" out of vertical over 8".
Never noticed until I actually stuck a level on it.
> Build it in place with every stud custom cut.
Or build and erect a stud wall, sloped or not, and shim as required.
It's quicker. And I _hate_ toe-nailing (toe-screwing too ;-).
3/4" isn't excessive for shimming on a non-load-bearing wall.
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.
Chris Lewis
> Our previous house had everything 1" out of vertical over 8".
> Never noticed until I actually stuck a level on it.
That was supposed to be 8 _feet_, not inches ;-) I'm sure I would
have noticed a 1 in 8 variation in slope. Even in my sleep ;-)
Colbyt
You have received all the responses. All will work. This wall only has to
support the wall covering.
I would not try to level the floor.
You basically have three choices:
1. Build in place with all that toe nailing
2. or assuming you have room to maneuver the completed wall, build it to the
height of the shortest point and shim at the top for the gaps.
3. Or layout your top and bottom plates, marking stud locations. measure and
cut each stud, nail them to the top plate in the normal manner. Secure the
bottom plate and then lift the top plate and studs into position, and
toenail the bottom portion of the studs.
Any of the three will work just fine if using a nail gun. Before trying
number one practice toe nailing over your head with a hammer.
Have fun!
Colbyt
fixhouse
in place and toe nailing as I go.
michael
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