Loosening Threaded Pipe Fittings
ContractorGuy.com
torch. Put opposing pipe wrenches on the pipe 4 - 6 inches away from where
you are applying heat, use the torch sparingly and if necessary, tap lightly
with a hammer.
Do NOT use around flammable fabrics, wood or anything else ( such as gas
pipes ) that may ignite or explode.
DIY Suggestion # 2 - Pick up the phone and call an Insured PRO----
--
Jimmy McDonald
THE Local Hard Working ContractorGuy
http://www.ContractorGuy.com
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TheRemod...@TheRemodelingGuy.com
Shawn Dauphine <sha...@houston.rr.com> wrote in message
news:3jSd4.2255$ZX6....@typhoon.austin.rr.com...
> Any recomendations on how to loosen a threaded 2' galvanized drain pipe?
> I've tried lubrication oil and pipe wrenches but it didn't budge. I've
> heard different opinions on using a butane torch to heat and loosen the
> fitting. Any advice would be appreciated.
>
>
Speedy Jim
>
> Any recomendations on how to loosen a threaded 2' galvanized drain pipe?
> I've tried lubrication oil and pipe wrenches but it didn't budge. I've
> heard different opinions on using a butane torch to heat and loosen the
> fitting. Any advice would be appreciated.
I hope you meant 2 in and not 2 ft !
Often, the only way to get fittings off galv pipe is to
destroy the fitting.
Cast ones can be broken apart. Malleable can be weakened by
hack sawing a slit almost down to the threads and then cracking open
with a chisel. Then the pipe will easily un-screw.
Jim
Shawn Dauphine
Lou W.
of more leverage in which case bigger/longer pipe wrenches are needed.If you
do not have access to bigger wrenches then try a section of pipe slipped
over the handles of your existing wrenches.The extra length will increase
you leverage.You may also succeed in breaking your wrenches doing this.Also
go to an auto parts store and get some penetrating oil not lubricating oil
and not WD40. HTH Lou W
Shawn Dauphine wrote in message
<3jSd4.2255$ZX6....@typhoon.austin.rr.com>...
Henry
afternoon trying to do some plumbing. Tried penetrating oil, different
wrenches, etc. to no avail. Rapped my knuckles a couple of times trying to
loosen fittings. Anyway, I remembered something my dad showed me as a kid
and flamed it with the butane torch for about two minutes around the
fitting. Told the wife if this didn't work, I was calling the plumber. Lo
and behold they came loose with very little effort. Just make sure you
don't set the house on fire, your wife might not like that.
Henry
Bruce Birbeck
>
> Any recomendations on how to loosen a threaded 2' galvanized drain pipe?
> I've tried lubrication oil and pipe wrenches but it didn't budge. I've
> heard different opinions on using a butane torch to heat and loosen the
> fitting. Any advice would be appreciated.
Heat, and tighten, rather than loosen, the connection. The last
direction that the connection was moving was tightening, therefore the
force required to get it moving is less in that direction.
As others have posted, more leverage is good. I wouldn't put too much
faith in penetrates.
Good luck.
--
BBB
Take out the NOSPAM to reply, unless it's already gone...
Jim's Repair
"Shawn Dauphine" <sha...@houston.rr.com> wrote:
> Any recomendations on how to loosen a threaded 2' galvanized drain pipe?
Two hammers. One behind the fiting to be a "reaction" weight, the other to
whack it. If the fitting is black iron, you can crack it and it'll fall away
fron the threads without damage. If it's a steel fitting(galvanized) it will
stretch slightly when peened. Don't be afraid to hit it. Work as nearly all
the way around as possible, then try the wrenches again.
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
Bennet K. Langlotz
>Heat, and tighten, rather than loosen, the connection. The last
>direction that the connection was moving was tightening, therefore the
>force required to get it moving is less in that direction.
Good point. It's not tight because it is tight, it is tight because
it is unstuck.
Unstick it first, then worry about loosening it.
--
Bennet K. Langlotz
ne...@langlotz.com
Larry Silkaitis
force? Also, how do you know that that was last direction it moved? I have
seen where people have over tightened threaded joint and had to loosen them
to get things to align.
--
__________
Larry
and Two Black Cats, Two Grey, One White & one White&Grey
=================
"Bruce Birbeck" <
> Heat, and tighten, rather than loosen, the connection. The last
> direction that the connection was moving was tightening, therefore the
> force required to get it moving is less in that direction.
Lance Hill
trying to prepare an old oil well for abandonment and the last
threaded fitting was stuck. Used a 48 inch iron pipe wrench w/
a cheater bar and 2-3 guys - nothing. Finally wound up
chaining the handle of the wrench to a big work-over truck and
loosened it that way. The wrench's handle was bent, but that's
all. The wrench was made by Rigid BTW.
Lance
"Lou W." <sai...@home.com> wrote...
Norm Nadel
I am a physician. The situation you describe sure sounds like a
winner ... for the emergency room crew !!!
Norm
On Sun, 9 Jan 2000 11:50:58 -0800, "Lance Hill" <leh...@msn.com>
wrote:
Bruce Birbeck
>
> What is basis for statement that tightening direction would require less
> force?
The theoretical knowledge came from studying the coefficient of starting
friction in physics. The practical knowledge comes from 20 years as a
plumber using the tricks past on by old timers.
> Also, how do you know that that was last direction it moved?
Most likely, a drainage pipe was tightened into place, and required no
counterclockwise turning to adjust.
I also have no way of knowing that it was not welded after, nor that
epoxy was used as a thread compound.
> I have
> seen where people have over tightened threaded joint and had to loosen them
> to get things to align.
Then they are asking for a leak. Either take it around one more time,
using a longer lever if necessary, or disassemble the connection and do
it again.
>
> --
Michael Bruss
: Apply heat in a safe way. No closed quarters etc. You do not need a raging
: torch. Put opposing pipe wrenches on the pipe 4 - 6 inches away from where
: you are applying heat, use the torch sparingly and if necessary, tap lightly
: with a hammer.
: Do NOT use around flammable fabrics, wood or anything else ( such as gas
: pipes ) that may ignite or explode.
One other caution: Be sure the fitting you're heating is vented in some way
(it can be through a distant faucet, etc.). Otherwise, steam may be
generated and give a good demo of a pipe bomb. Heating can have other
unintended consequences too. For example, there can be PVC, PE or PB
fittings or pipe up/downstream that may be damaged by the hot water and/or
steam generated. Ditto for air bladders in expansion tanks.
Mike
Larry Meile
sides simultaneously with a couple of hammers. Try to have the impacts
be timed to hit at the same time and be as equal as possible to minimize
side load on the pipe. Work your way around the fitting as much as
possible so as to strike along different diameters.
You don't want hit so hard so as to crack the fitting (unless it is to
be discarded) but it will help the penetrating oil work into the joint
and loosen the binding rust. Additionally, the fitting will "grow"
slightly, helping it to come off.
Larry
> Shawn Dauphine wrote in message
> <3jSd4.2255$ZX6....@typhoon.austin.rr.com>...
> >Any recomendations on how to loosen a threaded 2' galvanized drain pipe?
> >//snip