cutting straight edge in wood with dremel

[Doug]

I've got a cabinet in the laundry room (see pics) where I want to cut
off about 1/4" from bottom (bottom face). I will stop perhaps 2 "
from each end of cabinet. The board / trim is about 11/16" thick and
has 1/2" clear on back side from bottom before I reach the inside trim
piece (picture 3 of 4).

http://s456.photobucket.com/albums/qq285/doug23314/Public/

I was told to consider using a dremel but do they sell an attachment
that would allow me to cut a straight edge 1/4" from bottom? I don't
want jaggered cuts and I don't know right now if the bottom is
perfectly level.

And is there a better tool for this? I already have a dremel tho.
What type of dremel blade and accessory is good for this cut? I don't
know if this is some kind of composite board or wood since it's
painted. Feels like wood but I can't be 100% sure.

[Molly Brown]

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/68/Belt_sander_bosch.jpg

[k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz]

A Dremel isn't the right tool to cut wood, particularly wood that thick.
They're really not intended for wood; not nearly powerful enough. A circular
saw, with the right blade would work much better. A fence clamped to the
frame would help a lot.

[hr(bob) hofmann@att.net]

> http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/68/Belt_sander_bosch.jpg- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

The sander would be slow, but you could control the final depth
better. How are you planning on doing the two ends where the cabinet
meets the walls??

[Norminn]

Actually they are intended to cut wood. I have a router attachment for
my Dremel. Have only tried it a couple of times but not used for any
projects. It is rather nice, but the bits are small.

[dadiOH]

Personally, I wouldn't try using a Dremel. I'd probably use a jig saw,
preferably with a board clamped/nailed to the frame as a guide. If a guide
isn't possible, I'd draw a line and follow as best as possible. In either
case - ANY case, actually - you'll need to smooth and clean up with a plane.
I wouldn't use a circular saw...too heavy, agressive and too small an area
to rest saw even if you take off the door(s).



--

dadiOH
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[Doug]

See above.

[HeyBub]

This is a project ideally suited to the Harbor Freight Miracle Multifunction
tool (with a "fence" clamped to the work).

http://www.harborfreight.com/oscillating-multifunction-power-tool-68303.html

It's on sale for $29.99, but if you can wait a bit - and get on their
mailing list - the tool is available for $18.99 every couple of months or
so.

Seriously, for what this tool does, it has no peer. You'll find new uses
every day! Not long ago, I found the tool could mix up an oil and vinegar
dressing so the two ingredients didn't separate!

[k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz]

I was thinking about the cut-off wheels. Routing a straight line with a
Dremel is going to be a *major* challenge. It's simply the wrong tool for the
job.

[k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz]

On Mon, 28 May 2012 08:51:47 -0500, "HeyBub" <hey...@NOSPAMgmail.com> wrote:

>Doug wrote:
>> I've got a cabinet in the laundry room (see pics) where I want to cut
>> off about 1/4" from bottom (bottom face). I will stop perhaps 2 "
>> from each end of cabinet. The board / trim is about 11/16" thick and
>> has 1/2" clear on back side from bottom before I reach the inside trim
>> piece (picture 3 of 4).
>>
>> http://s456.photobucket.com/albums/qq285/doug23314/Public/
>>
>> I was told to consider using a dremel but do they sell an attachment
>> that would allow me to cut a straight edge 1/4" from bottom? I don't
>> want jaggered cuts and I don't know right now if the bottom is
>> perfectly level.
>>
>> And is there a better tool for this? I already have a dremel tho.
>> What type of dremel blade and accessory is good for this cut? I don't
>> know if this is some kind of composite board or wood since it's
>> painted. Feels like wood but I can't be 100% sure.
>
>This is a project ideally suited to the Harbor Freight Miracle Multifunction
>tool (with a "fence" clamped to the work).

Use a circular saw (with a "fence" clamped to the work).

>http://www.harborfreight.com/oscillating-multifunction-power-tool-68303.html
>
>It's on sale for $29.99, but if you can wait a bit - and get on their
>mailing list - the tool is available for $18.99 every couple of months or
>so.

You'll never get a straight line.

>Seriously, for what this tool does, it has no peer. You'll find new uses
>every day! Not long ago, I found the tool could mix up an oil and vinegar
>dressing so the two ingredients didn't separate!

Useful tools, to be sure, but this isn't one.

[hr(bob) hofmann@att.net]

On May 28, 6:55 am, "Doug" <noemailaddr...@msn.com> wrote:
> On Sun, 27 May 2012 19:27:51 -0700 (PDT), "hr(bob) hofm...@att.net"

>
>
>
>
>
> <hrhofm...@att.net> wrote:
> >On May 27, 6:56 pm, Molly Brown <recyclebin...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >> On May 27, 4:29 pm, "Doug" <noemailaddr...@msn.com> wrote:
>
> >> > I've got a cabinet in the laundry room (see pics) where I want to cut
> >> > off about 1/4" from bottom (bottom face).  I will stop perhaps 2 "
> >> > from each end of cabinet.  The board / trim is about 11/16" thick and
> >> > has 1/2" clear on back side from bottom before I reach the inside trim
> >> > piece  (picture 3 of 4).
>
> >> >http://s456.photobucket.com/albums/qq285/doug23314/Public/
>
> >> > I was told to consider using a dremel but do they sell an attachment
> >> > that would allow me to cut a straight edge 1/4" from bottom?   I don't
> >> > want jaggered cuts and I don't know right now if the bottom is
> >> > perfectly level.
>
> >> > And is there a better tool for this?  I already have a dremel tho.
> >> > What type of dremel blade and accessory is good for this cut?  I don't
> >> > know if this is some kind of composite board or wood since it's
> >> > painted.  Feels like wood but I can't be 100% sure.
>

> >>http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/68/Belt_sander_bosch....Hide quoted text -

>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> >The sander would be slow, but you could control the final depth
> >better.  How are you planning on doing the two ends where the cabinet
> >meets the walls??
>

> See above.  - Hide quoted text -

>
> - Show quoted text -

"above" says you are stopping 2" short of the walls, you have to do
some sort of a finishing of the rough edges of where you are cutting
back to the old dimension. A diagonal taper, or something.

[Doug]

Correct. I was thinking of just a perpendicular cut (parallel to the
walls).

[Bob F]

[Bob F]

I agree completely. I recently shortened a cabinet and door on it using the
multifunction tool. With a straight board as a guide, it was easy to get very
accurate lines on the cuts, and there is very little tendancy to splinter/chip
out the edges.

[HeyBub]

k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz wrote:
>>
>> This is a project ideally suited to the Harbor Freight Miracle
>> Multifunction tool (with a "fence" clamped to the work).
>
> Use a circular saw (with a "fence" clamped to the work).
>
>> http://www.harborfreight.com/oscillating-multifunction-power-tool-68303.html
>>
>> It's on sale for $29.99, but if you can wait a bit - and get on their
>> mailing list - the tool is available for $18.99 every couple of
>> months or so.
>
> You'll never get a straight line.
>

It will cut a line as straight as the Pope. And he won't have to remove the
door as he would if trying to use a 15-pound circular saw.

[k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz]

On Mon, 28 May 2012 18:24:20 -0500, "HeyBub" <hey...@NOSPAMgmail.com> wrote:

>k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz wrote:
>>>
>>> This is a project ideally suited to the Harbor Freight Miracle
>>> Multifunction tool (with a "fence" clamped to the work).
>>
>> Use a circular saw (with a "fence" clamped to the work).
>>
>>> http://www.harborfreight.com/oscillating-multifunction-power-tool-68303.html
>>>
>>> It's on sale for $29.99, but if you can wait a bit - and get on their
>>> mailing list - the tool is available for $18.99 every couple of
>>> months or so.
>>
>> You'll never get a straight line.
>>
>
>It will cut a line as straight as the Pope.

That's exactly what I mean.

>And he won't have to remove the
>door as he would if trying to use a 15-pound circular saw.

Four screws.

[HeyBub]

k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz wrote:
>>>
>>> You'll never get a straight line.
>>>
>>
>> It will cut a line as straight as the Pope.
>
> That's exactly what I mean.
>
>> And he won't have to remove the
>> door as he would if trying to use a 15-pound circular saw.
>
> Four screws.

Yep. In the past week, I used a Dremel on a cabinet door. I used the tool to
cut the heads off the screws holding the door in place as it was petrified
by at least three coats of some god-awful paint.

Once that awfulness was out of the way, I was able to vise-grip the screw
stubs to remove the suckers.

[k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz]

Good grief. These things from the bronze age?

[HeyBub]

k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz wrote:
>>
>> Yep. In the past week, I used a Dremel on a cabinet door. I used the
>> tool to cut the heads off the screws holding the door in place as it
>> was petrified by at least three coats of some god-awful paint.
>>
>> Once that awfulness was out of the way, I was able to vise-grip the
>> screw stubs to remove the suckers.
>
> Good grief. These things from the bronze age?

Early '60's for sure.

Anyway, that process turned out to be too much work and too time consuming.
I searched for a better way.

At first I tried incantations hoping for a miracle. Inasmuch as I had been a
bad boy all week, my prostrations and entreaties evidently fell on deaf
ears. (I considered a burnt offering, but then thought, "Nah".)

I finally settles on slathering a hefty dose of fuming methylene chloride.
The screws surrendered. All turned out well.