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Oven light keeps burning out
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webl...@nomail.com
Jan 21, 2003, 3:23:12 PM1/21/03
to
Hello all. I have a 12 year old GE built-in oven and over the past
couple of months the interior oven light keeps burning out, I've gone
through about six or seven since Nov/Dec. The lamps generally burn out
when I open the door or push in the oven light switch, but not (with
one exception described below) after the bulb has lit up.
couple of months the interior oven light keeps burning out, I've gone
through about six or seven since Nov/Dec. The lamps generally burn out
when I open the door or push in the oven light switch, but not (with
one exception described below) after the bulb has lit up.
I did a Google search of web pages and newsgroups and came up with a
couple of threads, one about light bulbs around the house often
burning out and one about oven lights burning out. Both threads
suggested checking to make sure an impedance problem with the neutral
line wasn't causing an imbalance in the voltage on either side of the
neutral. Apparently, the symptom,would be a high voltage reading in
the socket.
I checked the voltage in one of the kitchen sockets and it read
118.2V. I then put one lead of the voltmeter on the copper center
contact of the oven light socket and the other lead on the threaded
part of the socket and read the same 118.2V.
As an experiment, I left one appliance bulb on for about 8 hours and
it survived and I turned off the light. But the next day when I opened
the oven door the bulb flashed and failed. I also tried a cheap 40W
regular bulb, which survived baking something in the oven but burned
out after a few hours when I experimentally left it on after I was
finished baking. That experiment was probably flawed though, maybe
regular bulbs don't survive baking.
I've tried GE, Philips and Home Depot appliance bulbs.
I partially pulled out the oven and could see where the oven was
connected to the house wiring. From what I could see, the wires were
connected with twist connectors and then the bottom of the connector
was wrapped in electrical tape.
The only thing I can think of is maybe the door and light switch are
corroded and when they make contact, they're making a bunch of
interrmittent contacts, cycling the bulb many times before a good
contact is made. That would effectively put the bulb through dozens
or hundreds of power cycles. That might burn out a bulb quickly and
explain why the bulbs haven't failed when I left them on for hours at
a time.
Does anyone have any experience with this kind of problem?
I'm not an electrician but is there anything else I can try to see
what the problem is?
Thanks.
Joseph Meehan
Jan 21, 2003, 4:30:28 PM1/21/03
to
Gas or electric oven?
My guess is it is electric, which means it is bringing in 240 V.
Further I am guessing that when you shut the oven door it is causing a short
to 240 or an opening of the neutral also causing 240V and a flash ending of
your lamp.
Clearly I am guessing, but if I am right, I would worry about more than
just oven lights, I would worry about frying the cook.
If it is gas, that blows my theory.
--
Joseph E. Meehan
26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math
<webl...@nomail.com> wrote in message
news:mf8r2vcnomieec9l2...@4ax.com...
webl...@nomail.com
Jan 21, 2003, 5:28:04 PM1/21/03
to
Ack, I gave all the details but the most obvious. Yes, it's an
electric oven.
electric oven.
AFAIK, the only connection the door has to 240V would be through the
light switch the closes when the door is closed.
Wouldn't a short to 240V cause the breaker to open?
j...@noname.com
Jan 21, 2003, 9:09:17 PM1/21/03
to webl...@nomail.com
making good contact and this is whats burning them out so fast....
probably need a new metal socket for the ceramic light fixture in the
oven... if you replace the wires you need asbestoes covered
wires(probably not asbestos any more but most ace hardware stores will
have the wire you need)....
Joseph Meehan
Jan 21, 2003, 9:16:34 PM1/21/03
to
--
Joseph E. Meehan
26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math
<webl...@nomail.com> wrote in message
news:27ir2v8mqq78qmcnt...@4ax.com...
> Ack, I gave all the details but the most obvious. Yes, it's an
> electric oven.
>
> AFAIK, the only connection the door has to 240V would be through the
> light switch the closes when the door is closed.
>
> Wouldn't a short to 240V cause the breaker to open?
I was thinking of a short to 240V not accross 240. It could be the
switch somehow, I will have to think about that one, or it could be a loose
wire that is being pushed against another somehow.
Joseph Meehan
Jan 21, 2003, 9:17:10 PM1/21/03
to
I just read Jim's comment and it has a lot of merit as well.
--
Joseph E. Meehan
26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math
<webl...@nomail.com> wrote in message
news:27ir2v8mqq78qmcnt...@4ax.com...
webl...@nomail.com
Jan 22, 2003, 12:01:27 PM1/22/03
to
>webl...@nomail.com wrote:
>>
>> Hello all. I have a 12 year old GE built-in oven and over the past
>> couple of months the interior oven light keeps burning out, I
>>
>> Hello all. I have a 12 year old GE built-in oven and over the past
>> couple of months the interior oven light keeps burning out, I
.
>take out the oven and repair the wires, the light socket, etc. its not
>making good contact and this is whats burning them out so fast....
>probably need a new metal socket for the ceramic light fixture in the
>oven... if you replace the wires you need asbestoes covered
>wires(probably not asbestos any more but most ace hardware stores will
>have the wire you need)....
>take out the oven and repair the wires, the light socket, etc. its not
>making good contact and this is whats burning them out so fast....
>probably need a new metal socket for the ceramic light fixture in the
>oven... if you replace the wires you need asbestoes covered
>wires(probably not asbestos any more but most ace hardware stores will
>have the wire you need)....
Thanks for the reply.
Out of curiosity, what is it about poor contact among the wires that
causes the bulb to burn out? I know (as a somewhat unrelated example)
that the high voltage wires in a car ingnition system can break down,
reducing voltage and causing the spark plugs to misfire.
Does poor contact between the internal wiring and the socket cause a
similar low voltage situation? Or is arcing occuring, which is
damaging the bulb?
Also, is there anything I should specifically look or test for when I
have the oven out? Is there a way to tell if the wire or socket is at
fault?
Dan O.
Jan 22, 2003, 2:53:39 PM1/22/03
to
webl...@nomail.com wrote in message ...
>
>Out of curiosity, what is it about poor contact among the wires that
>causes the bulb to burn out?
A poor contact causes heat. The heat is transferred to the bulb's filament
shortening its life. I would think in that case it is just coincidence that
it failed when initially energized or the filament weakened when it cooled
and just 'gave up the ghost' when powered again.
>Also, is there anything I should specifically look or test for when I
>have the oven out? Is there a way to tell if the wire or socket is at
>fault?
Discoloration would be the most likely sign although it may not always be
visible.
If it is a self cleaning range, some appliance manufacturers sell a bulb
specifically designed (so they say) for that application. Check local
*appliance parts* suppliers. You might also want to consider a replacement
bulb with a brass base in place of aluminum if the socket is brass as well.
Jenn Air ranges had a problem years ago when using a aluminum base bulbs in
their brass sockets.
Dan O.
-
Appliance411.com
http://ng.Appliance411.com/?ref411=+GE+range
=Ð~~~~~~
webl...@nomail.com
Jan 22, 2003, 4:22:20 PM1/22/03
to
>
>webl...@nomail.com wrote in message ...
>>
>>Out of curiosity, what is it about poor contact among the wires that
>>causes the bulb to burn out?
>
>A poor contact causes heat. The heat is transferred to the bulb's filament
>shortening its life. I would think in that case it is just coincidence that
>it failed when initially energized or the filament weakened when it cooled
>and just 'gave up the ghost' when powered again.
>webl...@nomail.com wrote in message ...
>>
>>Out of curiosity, what is it about poor contact among the wires that
>>causes the bulb to burn out?
>
>A poor contact causes heat. The heat is transferred to the bulb's filament
>shortening its life. I would think in that case it is just coincidence that
>it failed when initially energized or the filament weakened when it cooled
>and just 'gave up the ghost' when powered again.
??? The filament must already be burning in the range of 3000 degrees
C to 5000 degrees C. Check out this out this web site:
http://invsee.asu.edu/nmodules/lightbulbmod/filament.html
The heat generated by a poor contact can't be any appreciable fraction
of the normal temperature of a lamp filament, if it was 20% of 3000
degrees there would be a fire, or the wire would melt.
Joseph Meehan
Jan 22, 2003, 5:34:16 PM1/22/03
to
I may stand to be corrected, but I would guess the bulb normally uses
the socket to cool itself, but if the socket is hot it can't provide any
cooling so over heat.
the socket to cool itself, but if the socket is hot it can't provide any
cooling so over heat.
--
Joseph E. Meehan
26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math
<webl...@nomail.com> wrote in message
news:ni2u2vcnjh53vs7cs...@4ax.com...
Ralph Taube
Jan 22, 2003, 10:50:44 PM1/22/03
to
Check your neutral connection. There is a possibility that with a high
resistance on the neutral, and some 120 volt system on one hot
line-to-neutral and the bulb on the other hot line-to-neutral that when
everything gets energized you're seeing significantly higher voltage across
the light.
"Dan O." <see_m...@www.appliance411.com> wrote in message
news:aGCX9.63962$lj.23...@read1.cgocable.net...
resistance on the neutral, and some 120 volt system on one hot
line-to-neutral and the bulb on the other hot line-to-neutral that when
everything gets energized you're seeing significantly higher voltage across
the light.
"Dan O." <see_m...@www.appliance411.com> wrote in message
news:aGCX9.63962$lj.23...@read1.cgocable.net...
webl...@nomail.com
Jan 22, 2003, 10:46:14 PM1/22/03
to
>Check your neutral connection. There is a possibility that with a high
>resistance on the neutral, and some 120 volt system on one hot
>line-to-neutral and the bulb on the other hot line-to-neutral that when
>everything gets energized you're seeing significantly higher voltage across
>the light.
>resistance on the neutral, and some 120 volt system on one hot
>line-to-neutral and the bulb on the other hot line-to-neutral that when
>everything gets energized you're seeing significantly higher voltage across
>the light.
Thanks for the reply. You must have missed my original post. I've
repeated it below. I don't think there's a problem with the neutral
connection because I measured the voltage at the socket at it was the
same as one of the kitchen sockets, 118.2V.
...............
Hello all. I have a 12 year old GE built-in oven and over the past
Joseph Meehan
Jan 23, 2003, 4:51:59 AM1/23/03
to
Ralph wisely suspected "Check your neutral connection. There is a
possibility that with a high
resistance on the neutral" Checking the voltage will not measure the
resistance normally, especially with a static system and today's digital
(very sensitive) meters.
possibility that with a high
resistance normally, especially with a static system and today's digital
(very sensitive) meters.
--
Joseph E. Meehan
26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math
<webl...@nomail.com> wrote in message
news:89pu2votcpidg8fn5...@4ax.com...
webl...@nomail.com
Jan 23, 2003, 10:58:46 AM1/23/03
to
> Ralph wisely suspected "Check your neutral connection. There is a
>possibility that with a high
>resistance on the neutral" Checking the voltage will not measure the
>resistance normally, especially with a static system and today's digital
>(very sensitive) meters.
>possibility that with a high
>resistance on the neutral" Checking the voltage will not measure the
>resistance normally, especially with a static system and today's digital
>(very sensitive) meters.
I don't understand. I measured the voltage across the socket and it
was 118.2V. If the bulb were burning out because of a poor connection
to the neutral that resulted in high voltage, wouldn't I be able to
measure that higher voltage?
Joseph Meehan
Jan 23, 2003, 6:06:36 PM1/23/03
to
Even with a high resistance connection, with little current you will
still get full voltage if your meter has even higher resistance.
still get full voltage if your meter has even higher resistance.
If the connection has 2K ohms and your meter has 2M ohms the full
voltage will be read. However if your meter has 2K and the connection has
2M then it will show a real voltage drop. Today's digital meters have very
high internal resistance so they then to miss some of the things the older
meters would pick up.
--
Joseph E. Meehan
26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math
<webl...@nomail.com> wrote in message
news:d6403v00td3ecrli6...@4ax.com...
Steve B.
Jan 23, 2003, 9:02:23 PM1/23/03
to
On Thu, 23 Jan 2003 15:58:46 GMT, webl...@nomail.com wrote:
>I don't understand. I measured the voltage across the socket and it
>was 118.2V. If the bulb were burning out because of a poor connection
>to the neutral that resulted in high voltage, wouldn't I be able to
>measure that higher voltage?
Not necessarily. Your meter puts no load on the connections. If you
have a poor connection on the neutral somewhere it might not show up
until it was under load (the bulb is on).
Steve
DerbyDad03
Feb 11, 2014, 6:31:41 PM2/11/14
to
<grandm...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I know this is a really old thread but I am having this problem too
> lately and my oven is also a GE built in oven. The problem just started
> within the last year and the oven is 5 years old,It gets aggravating as
> it is a pain to change and most of the time it not only burns out it
> explodes and hubby has to shut off power to the oven to get the bulb out.
Explodes? Does it shower glass all over whatever is in the oven?
> I know this is a really old thread but I am having this problem too
> lately and my oven is also a GE built in oven. The problem just started
> within the last year and the oven is 5 years old,It gets aggravating as
> it is a pain to change and most of the time it not only burns out it
> explodes and hubby has to shut off power to the oven to get the bulb out.
Explodes? Does it shower glass all over whatever is in the oven?
hrho...@sbcglobal.net
Feb 11, 2014, 9:02:51 PM2/11/14
to
The OP didn't say whether or not there is a glass lens cover over the light housing, and if there is, how it seals the light socket against the oven heat. The OP also didn't say if the lamp burned out upon opening and closing the oven door when the temperature of the oven was maybe 200F vs 400F. He also didn't say if he was using special appliance bulbs that are designed to be super strong against vibration. Too many things we still don't know.
Lab Lover
Feb 11, 2014, 9:39:12 PM2/11/14
to
On Tue, 11 Feb 2014 17:25:50 -0000, "harryagain" <harry...@btinternet.com>
wrote:
>
><grandm...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>news:cda2e467-ca19-4896...@googlegroups.com...
>glass lens.
>Bulb not designed for oven temperatures, usually has external air source to
>keepit cool.
>
Sounds like someone forgot to re-install the heavy glass lens over the bulb. If
the bulb is bare and exposed in the oven, something is not right.
wrote:
>
><grandm...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>news:cda2e467-ca19-4896...@googlegroups.com...
>I know this is a really old thread but I am having this problem too lately
>and my oven is also a GE built in oven. The problem just started within the
>last year and the oven is 5 years old,It gets aggravating as it is a pain to
>change and most of the time it not only burns out it explodes and hubby has
>to shut off power to the oven to get the bulb out.
>
>Could be hot air leaking in from the oven through missing/faulty seal arounf
>and my oven is also a GE built in oven. The problem just started within the
>last year and the oven is 5 years old,It gets aggravating as it is a pain to
>change and most of the time it not only burns out it explodes and hubby has
>to shut off power to the oven to get the bulb out.
>
>glass lens.
>Bulb not designed for oven temperatures, usually has external air source to
>keepit cool.
>
Sounds like someone forgot to re-install the heavy glass lens over the bulb. If
the bulb is bare and exposed in the oven, something is not right.
mike
Feb 11, 2014, 9:43:23 PM2/11/14
to
On 2/11/2014 6:02 PM, hrho...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
> The OP didn't say whether or not there is a glass lens cover over the light housing, and if there is, how it seals the light socket against the oven heat. The OP also didn't say if the lamp burned out upon opening and closing the oven door when the temperature of the oven was maybe 200F vs 400F. He also didn't say if he was using special appliance bulbs that are designed to be super strong against vibration. Too many things we still don't know.
>
The oven is likely 220V.
> The OP didn't say whether or not there is a glass lens cover over the light housing, and if there is, how it seals the light socket against the oven heat. The OP also didn't say if the lamp burned out upon opening and closing the oven door when the temperature of the oven was maybe 200F vs 400F. He also didn't say if he was using special appliance bulbs that are designed to be super strong against vibration. Too many things we still don't know.
>
The bulb is likely 120V.
I'd also check for intermittent neutral.
Tekkie®
Feb 18, 2014, 9:14:26 PM2/18/14
to
DerbyDad03 posted for all of us...
And I know how to SNIP
I guess it ain't sparkles over those cookies?
--
Tekkie
And I know how to SNIP
--
Tekkie
guggerlib...@gmail.com
Jun 28, 2015, 12:10:10 PM6/28/15
to
Gordon Shumway
Jun 28, 2015, 4:21:09 PM6/28/15
to
On Sun, 28 Jun 2015 09:10:06 -0700 (PDT), guggerlib...@gmail.com
wrote:
I'm sure the solution was found over a decade ago when the post was
made. Pay attention, there will be a quiz later.
wrote:
made. Pay attention, there will be a quiz later.
ItsJoanNotJoann
Jun 28, 2015, 5:56:13 PM6/28/15
to
On Sunday, June 28, 2015 at 11:10:10 AM UTC-5, guggerlib...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> On Tuesday, January 21, 2003 at 3:23:15 PM UTC-5, webl...@nomail.com wrote:
> > Hello all. I have a 12 year old GE built-in oven and over the past
> > couple of months the interior oven light keeps burning out,
>
>
> On Tuesday, January 21, 2003 at 3:23:15 PM UTC-5, webl...@nomail.com wrote:
> > Hello all. I have a 12 year old GE built-in oven and over the past
> > couple of months the interior oven light keeps burning out,
>
> I also have a GE oven with the same problems, tried 4 bulbs, last only 1 to 2 day's. Did anybody found the actual problem. It mos likely is a neutral problem.
>
>
Good grief, no reading comprehension at all. You searched long and hard for this 13 year old post, didn't you?? <eye roll>
>
>
Uncle Monster
Jun 28, 2015, 10:46:46 PM6/28/15
to
[8~{} Uncle Ancient Monster
pwh1...@gmail.com
Jul 21, 2015, 4:53:30 PM7/21/15
to
On Sunday, June 28, 2015 at 1:21:09 PM UTC-7, Gordon Shumway wrote:
> On Sun, 28 Jun 2015 09:10:06 -0700 (PDT),
> On Sun, 28 Jun 2015 09:10:06 -0700 (PDT),
Stormin Mormon
Jul 22, 2015, 8:33:14 AM7/22/15
to
On 7/21/2015 4:53 PM, pwh1...@gmail.com wrote:
>>> On Tuesday, January 21, 2003 at 3:23:15 PM UTC-5, webl...@nomail.com wrote:
>>>> Hello all. I have a 12 year old GE built-in oven and over the past
>>>> couple of months the interior oven light keeps burning out, I've gone
>>>> through about six or seven since Nov/Dec. The lamps generally burn out
>>>> when I open the door or push in the oven light switch, but not (with
>>>> one exception described below) after the bulb has lit up.
>>>>
>>> On Tuesday, January 21, 2003 at 3:23:15 PM UTC-5, webl...@nomail.com wrote:
>>>> Hello all. I have a 12 year old GE built-in oven and over the past
>>>> couple of months the interior oven light keeps burning out, I've gone
>>>> through about six or seven since Nov/Dec. The lamps generally burn out
>>>> when I open the door or push in the oven light switch, but not (with
>>>> one exception described below) after the bulb has lit up.
>>>>
>> I'm sure the solution was found over a decade ago when the post was
>> made. Pay attention, there will be a quiz later.
>
> It happened to us recently. Had one light bulb that lasted at least 10 years. Then it died and I have been replacing the bulb 5 times in the last 1 month. Kept dying after just a few days. I wondered if the problem is with the recent bulbs quality/spec or the oven itself. I recalled in the past you buy separate bulbs for fridge and oven. Now it's the same bulb.
>
Before 2003, more like 1989, I had a lamp over
>> made. Pay attention, there will be a quiz later.
>
> It happened to us recently. Had one light bulb that lasted at least 10 years. Then it died and I have been replacing the bulb 5 times in the last 1 month. Kept dying after just a few days. I wondered if the problem is with the recent bulbs quality/spec or the oven itself. I recalled in the past you buy separate bulbs for fridge and oven. Now it's the same bulb.
>
my workbench. Phillips brand bulbs would burn
out when I turned on the grinder. GE bulbs lasted
a lot longer than that.
Pehaps the poster from 2003 can get bulbs of a
different brand to try.
--
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.
Col. Edmund J. Burke
Jul 22, 2015, 8:37:55 AM7/22/15
to
I think it's a loose screw somewhere..........maybe in yer head?
grandm...@gmail.com
Feb 11, 2014, 11:05:34 AM2/11/14
to
Bob F
Feb 11, 2014, 11:12:10 AM2/11/14
to
Cooking things that splatter onto it?
TimR
Feb 11, 2014, 11:45:17 AM2/11/14
to
On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 11:05:34 AM UTC-5, grandm...@gmail.com wrote:
> I know this is a really old thread but I am having this problem too lately and my oven is also a GE built in oven. The problem just started within the last year and the oven is 5 years old,It gets aggravating as it is a pain to change and most of the time it not only burns out it explodes and hubby has to shut off power to the oven to get the bulb out.
It could be a lot of things but screwing the bulb in too hard does cause this.
> I know this is a really old thread but I am having this problem too lately and my oven is also a GE built in oven. The problem just started within the last year and the oven is 5 years old,It gets aggravating as it is a pain to change and most of the time it not only burns out it explodes and hubby has to shut off power to the oven to get the bulb out.
1/8th turn after it lights - not 1/4 - is all you need.
harryagain
Feb 11, 2014, 12:25:50 PM2/11/14
to
c...@cvwheeler.com
Oct 1, 2015, 3:54:21 PM10/1/15
to
On Tuesday, January 21, 2003 at 2:23:12 PM UTC-6, webl...@nomail.com wrote:
Believe it or not, there is a right way and wrong way to screw in a light bulb. Most people screw them in snuggly. This causes a hot spot on the soldered center contact that can get hot enough to melt the solder which spoils the vacuum and thus burns out the light. The correct way is to first ensure that the power is removed from the socket, use a tool to gently pry up on the center contact so it is not flattened against the base of the socket. Be careful, it will break off if it is bent to far. Before inserting a new bulb be sure that the switch is in the 'ON' position. Insert the light bulb and screw it in until the light bulb just lights, then give it an additional 1/8 turn. You should be all set.
Believe it or not, there is a right way and wrong way to screw in a light bulb. Most people screw them in snuggly. This causes a hot spot on the soldered center contact that can get hot enough to melt the solder which spoils the vacuum and thus burns out the light. The correct way is to first ensure that the power is removed from the socket, use a tool to gently pry up on the center contact so it is not flattened against the base of the socket. Be careful, it will break off if it is bent to far. Before inserting a new bulb be sure that the switch is in the 'ON' position. Insert the light bulb and screw it in until the light bulb just lights, then give it an additional 1/8 turn. You should be all set.
Pavel314
Oct 2, 2015, 12:42:59 PM10/2/15
to
On Tuesday, January 21, 2003 at 3:23:12 PM UTC-5, webl...@nomail.com wrote:
> Hello all. I have a 12 year old GE built-in oven and over the past
> couple of months the interior oven light keeps burning out, I've gone
> through about six or seven since Nov/Dec. The lamps generally burn out
> when I open the door or push in the oven light switch, but not (with
> one exception described below) after the bulb has lit up.
>
> Hello all. I have a 12 year old GE built-in oven and over the past
> couple of months the interior oven light keeps burning out, I've gone
> through about six or seven since Nov/Dec. The lamps generally burn out
> when I open the door or push in the oven light switch, but not (with
> one exception described below) after the bulb has lit up.
>
Paul
Colonel Edmund Burke
Oct 2, 2015, 1:25:06 PM10/2/15
to
On 10/1/2015 12:54 PM, c...@cvwheeler.com wrote:
> On Tuesday, January 21, 2003 at 2:23:12 PM UTC-6, webl...@nomail.com wrote:
>
> Believe it or not, there is a right way and wrong way to screw in a light bulb. Most people screw them in snuggly. This causes a hot spot on the soldered center contact that can get hot enough to melt the solder which spoils the vacuum and thus burns out the light. The correct way is to first ensure that the power is removed from the socket, use a tool to gently pry up on the center contact so it is not flattened against the base of the socket. Be careful, it will break off if it is bent to far. Before inserting a new bulb be sure that the switch is in the 'ON' position. Insert the light bulb and screw it in until the light bulb just lights, then give it an additional 1/8 turn. You should be all set.
>
Does it work the same way with a dildo?
> On Tuesday, January 21, 2003 at 2:23:12 PM UTC-6, webl...@nomail.com wrote:
>
> Believe it or not, there is a right way and wrong way to screw in a light bulb. Most people screw them in snuggly. This causes a hot spot on the soldered center contact that can get hot enough to melt the solder which spoils the vacuum and thus burns out the light. The correct way is to first ensure that the power is removed from the socket, use a tool to gently pry up on the center contact so it is not flattened against the base of the socket. Be careful, it will break off if it is bent to far. Before inserting a new bulb be sure that the switch is in the 'ON' position. Insert the light bulb and screw it in until the light bulb just lights, then give it an additional 1/8 turn. You should be all set.
>
DerbyDad03
Oct 2, 2015, 11:08:06 PM10/2/15
to
I have a gas stove in which the oven light goes off frequently, but not all the time, when the
oven is in use. It eventually comes back on, even while the oven is still hot. It's an intermittent
problem and I haven't been able to discern any time or temperature pattern.
I tried replacing the bulbs years ago, but it didn't help. The new bulb did the same thing.
It's probably an expansion thing with the socket, but I just live with it.
J...@spamblocked.com
Oct 6, 2015, 5:38:51 AM10/6/15
to
On Fri, 2 Oct 2015 20:08:01 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
>I tried replacing the bulbs years ago, but it didn't help. The new bulb did the same thing.
>
>It's probably an expansion thing with the socket, but I just live with it.
Get a flashlight, and place it near the stove. Use it to see the
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
>I tried replacing the bulbs years ago, but it didn't help. The new bulb did the same thing.
>
>It's probably an expansion thing with the socket, but I just live with it.
contents of the oven. Problem solved!
Stormin Mormon
Oct 6, 2015, 9:54:55 AM10/6/15
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DerbyDad03
Oct 6, 2015, 10:00:20 AM10/6/15
to
On Tuesday, October 6, 2015 at 9:54:55 AM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
> On 10/6/2015 5:36 AM, J...@spamblocked.com wrote:
> > On Fri, 2 Oct 2015 20:08:01 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
> > <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
> >
> >> I tried replacing the bulbs years ago, but it didn't help. The new bulb did the same thing.
> >>
> >> It's probably an expansion thing with the socket, but I just live with it.
> >
> > Get a flashlight, and place it near the stove. Use it to see the
> > contents of the oven. Problem solved!
> >
>
> I've known people to do that with refrigerator.
>
I keep the flashlight in the refrigerator for that purpose but it's too dark in there and I can never find it without a flashlight.
> On 10/6/2015 5:36 AM, J...@spamblocked.com wrote:
> > On Fri, 2 Oct 2015 20:08:01 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
> > <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
> >
> >> I tried replacing the bulbs years ago, but it didn't help. The new bulb did the same thing.
> >>
> >> It's probably an expansion thing with the socket, but I just live with it.
> >
> > Get a flashlight, and place it near the stove. Use it to see the
> > contents of the oven. Problem solved!
> >
>
> I've known people to do that with refrigerator.
>
Uncle Monster
Oct 6, 2015, 10:16:28 AM10/6/15
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On Tuesday, October 6, 2015 at 8:54:55 AM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
> On 10/6/2015 5:36 AM, J...@spamblocked.com wrote:
> > On Fri, 2 Oct 2015 20:08:01 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
> > <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
> >
> >> I tried replacing the bulbs years ago, but it didn't help. The new bulb did the same thing.
> >>
> >> It's probably an expansion thing with the socket, but I just live with it.
> >
> > Get a flashlight, and place it near the stove. Use it to see the
> > contents of the oven. Problem solved!
> >
>
> I've known people to do that with refrigerator.
> -
> .
A good old magnetic 2 D cell flashlight is good to keep on a fridge. ^_^
> On 10/6/2015 5:36 AM, J...@spamblocked.com wrote:
> > On Fri, 2 Oct 2015 20:08:01 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
> > <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
> >
> >> I tried replacing the bulbs years ago, but it didn't help. The new bulb did the same thing.
> >>
> >> It's probably an expansion thing with the socket, but I just live with it.
> >
> > Get a flashlight, and place it near the stove. Use it to see the
> > contents of the oven. Problem solved!
> >
>
> I've known people to do that with refrigerator.
> -
> .
[8~{} Uncle Fridge Monster
Stormin Mormon
Oct 6, 2015, 5:41:09 PM10/6/15
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Uncle Monster
Oct 6, 2015, 6:16:26 PM10/6/15
to
On Tuesday, October 6, 2015 at 4:41:09 PM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
> On 10/6/2015 10:16 AM, Uncle Monster wrote:
> > On Tuesday, October 6, 2015 at 8:54:55 AM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
> >> I've known people to do that with refrigerator.
> >> -
> >> .
> > A good old magnetic 2 D cell flashlight is good to keep on a fridge. ^_^
> >
> > [8~{} Uncle Fridge Monster
> >
>
> Need one of the new ones with an aluminum magnet.
> -
> .
>
My side by side at home has a steel cabinet and refrigerator magnets are all over it. I haven't come across a residential fridge with an aluminum cabinet yet but I haven't owned one of the latest units. o_O
> On 10/6/2015 10:16 AM, Uncle Monster wrote:
> > On Tuesday, October 6, 2015 at 8:54:55 AM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
> >> I've known people to do that with refrigerator.
> >> -
> >> .
> > A good old magnetic 2 D cell flashlight is good to keep on a fridge. ^_^
> >
> > [8~{} Uncle Fridge Monster
> >
>
> Need one of the new ones with an aluminum magnet.
> -
> .
>
[8~{} Uncle Fridge Monster
John G
Oct 6, 2015, 6:23:42 PM10/6/15
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Uncle Monster explained :
Try a stainless "steel" finish fridge. Not magnetic :-Z
--
John G Sydney.
--
John G Sydney.
Don Y
Oct 6, 2015, 6:32:15 PM10/6/15
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On 10/6/2015 3:23 PM, John G wrote:
>> My side by side at home has a steel cabinet and refrigerator magnets are all
>> over it. I haven't come across a residential fridge with an aluminum cabinet
>> yet but I haven't owned one of the latest units. o_O
>
>> My side by side at home has a steel cabinet and refrigerator magnets are all
>> over it. I haven't come across a residential fridge with an aluminum cabinet
>> yet but I haven't owned one of the latest units. o_O
>
> Try a stainless "steel" finish fridge. Not magnetic :-Z
Some of the stainless appliances have a steel "side skin".
Uncle Monster
Oct 7, 2015, 5:31:19 AM10/7/15
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[8~{} Uncle Sticky Monster
Uncle Monster
Oct 7, 2015, 5:37:28 AM10/7/15
to
[8~{} Uncle SS Monster
Oren
Oct 7, 2015, 12:45:01 PM10/7/15
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hrho...@att.net
Oct 7, 2015, 9:53:04 PM10/7/15
to
You need to have the voltmeter connected semi-permanently to the oven bulb outlet so you can monitor the voltage when you first turn the oven on and when you open the door. It does not seem like it burns out on a steady state basis, only on turn-on transients, and you will not see them if you have to open the oven door to connect your voltmeter. You need a screw-in outlet and an extension cord so you can monitor the voltage at turn-on. Even better would be an oscilloscope so you can see the actual transient. If you have a loose neutral anywhere in the circuit, you might have a high transient. For instance, if the timer motor is on the other half of the split 240 Volt circuit, the motor inductance will have a varying impedance at the time the light turns on, and that could screw up the balance of the circuit if the neutral is loose.
darleene...@gmail.com
Oct 19, 2015, 5:57:12 PM10/19/15
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On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 at 10:05:34 AM UTC-6, grandm...@gmail.com wrote:
> I know this is a really old thread but I am having this problem too lately and my oven is also a GE built in oven. The problem just started within the last year and the oven is 5 years old,It gets aggravating as it is a pain to change and most of the time it not only burns out it explodes and hubby has to shut off power to the oven to get the bulb out.
I too started having problems with my 2012 GE Profile built in convection oven. Initially, he light bulbs would intermittently go off and on when the oven was in use, and then eventually burn out. I felt I had a phantom in the oven. Now they just burn out. In the past 3 months I am replacing both oven appliance bulbs at a rate of once a month. My oven has 2 bulbs located on the upper surface and they have a glass cover which can be a pain to get off. I tried looking at the sockets with a mirror to see if I could detect anything. It's very frustrating and I am not electrical. Don't see how I could do any of the tests some of the others have done. Guess I'll just keep replacing for now. I just bought a 25 watt bulb instead of a 40 watt to see if that makes any difference.
> I know this is a really old thread but I am having this problem too lately and my oven is also a GE built in oven. The problem just started within the last year and the oven is 5 years old,It gets aggravating as it is a pain to change and most of the time it not only burns out it explodes and hubby has to shut off power to the oven to get the bulb out.
jackfs...@gmail.com
Jan 17, 2016, 8:29:50 PM1/17/16
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January 14, 2016
From Michigan:
We bought a GE Electric Range last September and it was delivered with a burned out oven light. We purchased another 40w appliance bulb and it burned out within a week. A 3rd bulb burned out as well. We called GE Service Center. The technition came and said it was the light bulbs that were at fault. Not that we were using the wrong kind, but all the appliance bulbs available were not made up to the quality they used to be. He recommended we get a rough surface shop-light bulb for the oven. We shopped three places to buy one. Those bulbs don't exist in a 40w bulb small enough to fit in the oven and be able to install the safety glass cover that came with the oven protect the light bulb. GE replaced the main control panel and the temperature senser in the oven in late December, and a week later another bulb burned out while using the oven. GE came back again, tested the oven, and said again it was the quality of the bulbs at fault. The GE bulbs we purchased were made in Hungary. We bought other Phillips bappliance bulbs made in the Phillipines, and still another brand from China. I asked sales managers at three appliance stores if anyone reported oven bulbs from any appliance manufacturers burning out. Their answers were all no. GE tested the bulb socket inside the oven, and said the current and volts to the bulbs was OK. Could it be that the main control panel which completely controls the oven temperature, the clock, burners, the oven timer and clock, as well as the oven light, be at fault, at times sending too much voltage to the oven light? I don't believe it's the light bulbs. It acts like a faulty circuit board, that fails when asked to do too much. The bulbs have flashed and burned out when we turn on the oven light while the oven is cooking something. GE Oven Model # JB650DFBB.
From Michigan:
We bought a GE Electric Range last September and it was delivered with a burned out oven light. We purchased another 40w appliance bulb and it burned out within a week. A 3rd bulb burned out as well. We called GE Service Center. The technition came and said it was the light bulbs that were at fault. Not that we were using the wrong kind, but all the appliance bulbs available were not made up to the quality they used to be. He recommended we get a rough surface shop-light bulb for the oven. We shopped three places to buy one. Those bulbs don't exist in a 40w bulb small enough to fit in the oven and be able to install the safety glass cover that came with the oven protect the light bulb. GE replaced the main control panel and the temperature senser in the oven in late December, and a week later another bulb burned out while using the oven. GE came back again, tested the oven, and said again it was the quality of the bulbs at fault. The GE bulbs we purchased were made in Hungary. We bought other Phillips bappliance bulbs made in the Phillipines, and still another brand from China. I asked sales managers at three appliance stores if anyone reported oven bulbs from any appliance manufacturers burning out. Their answers were all no. GE tested the bulb socket inside the oven, and said the current and volts to the bulbs was OK. Could it be that the main control panel which completely controls the oven temperature, the clock, burners, the oven timer and clock, as well as the oven light, be at fault, at times sending too much voltage to the oven light? I don't believe it's the light bulbs. It acts like a faulty circuit board, that fails when asked to do too much. The bulbs have flashed and burned out when we turn on the oven light while the oven is cooking something. GE Oven Model # JB650DFBB.
bob_villain
Jan 17, 2016, 8:58:46 PM1/17/16
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On Sunday, January 17, 2016 at 7:29:50 PM UTC-6, jackfs...@gmail.com wrote:
I think rough service bulbs have a plastic coating (maybe for a garage door opener or fridge) not suited to the high temps. I have always used ordinary 40W incandescent bulbs for an oven without issues and rarely change them. This circuit shouldn't involve a control board...just a switch.
I think rough service bulbs have a plastic coating (maybe for a garage door opener or fridge) not suited to the high temps. I have always used ordinary 40W incandescent bulbs for an oven without issues and rarely change them. This circuit shouldn't involve a control board...just a switch.
Stormin Mormon
Jan 18, 2016, 9:23:34 AM1/18/16
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--
Ralph Mowery
Jan 18, 2016, 9:53:40 AM1/18/16
to
<jackfs...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:c9310750-bb8c-4c7f...@googlegroups.com...
voltage on each side of the 240 volt wiring on the back of the oven. No
more than most oven bulbs are used I would think they should last many years
unless you turn on the bulb and leave it on while doing the cooking.
It may be a voltage unbalance that is causing the side with the bulb to have
more voltage than it should. Do this several times and with different
things running in the house. It may not be the stove that is at fault for
this, but other things in the house could if there is a bad connection to
the neutral wiring in the house.
Unquestionably Confused
Jan 18, 2016, 9:56:49 AM1/18/16
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[snip]
> to the oven light? I don't believe it's the light bulbs. It acts like a
> faulty circuit board, that fails when asked to do too much. The bulbs
> have flashed and burned out when we turn on the oven light while the
> oven is cooking something. GE Oven Model # JB650DFBB.
>>
>
> Wonder if the bulbs are being fed 220 VAC by accident some how?
I'd think it unlikely and, if that were the case, wouldn't the new bulb
act like a flashbulb (anyone remember those?<g>) the first time it was
turned on?
I've noticed the same problem of late with our oven. The OEM bulb,
IIRC, seemed to last us about 7 years with moderate use. The
replacements seem to crap out annually. Tried a variety of bulbs
(different makers) that were all specified as being appliance bulbs for
use in ovens. Never noticed any difference in the brightness only the
longevity or lack thereof.
> to the oven light? I don't believe it's the light bulbs. It acts like a
> faulty circuit board, that fails when asked to do too much. The bulbs
> have flashed and burned out when we turn on the oven light while the
> oven is cooking something. GE Oven Model # JB650DFBB.
>>
>
> Wonder if the bulbs are being fed 220 VAC by accident some how?
act like a flashbulb (anyone remember those?<g>) the first time it was
turned on?
I've noticed the same problem of late with our oven. The OEM bulb,
IIRC, seemed to last us about 7 years with moderate use. The
replacements seem to crap out annually. Tried a variety of bulbs
(different makers) that were all specified as being appliance bulbs for
use in ovens. Never noticed any difference in the brightness only the
longevity or lack thereof.
Stormin Mormon
Jan 18, 2016, 11:03:56 AM1/18/16
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I've also found that some brands of bulbs are
just simply junk quality.
Unquestionably Confused
Jan 18, 2016, 11:11:51 AM1/18/16
to
electrical panel nor the stove. Usage of the oven light is not
excessive - if anything it's likely down from that of the first 7 years.
Stormin Mormon
Jan 18, 2016, 11:30:51 AM1/18/16
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time I turned on the grinder, the filament broke.
Different brand of bulb helped a lot.
Please let us know what brand of bulb finally
turns out to be best.
Colonel Edmund J. Burke
Jan 18, 2016, 1:29:53 PM1/18/16
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Micky
Jan 18, 2016, 1:40:57 PM1/18/16
to
On Mon, 18 Jan 2016 08:56:41 -0600, Unquestionably Confused
<puzz...@ameritech.net> wrote:
>On 1/18/2016 8:23 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
>> On 1/17/2016 8:29 PM, jackfs...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>[snip]
>
>> to the oven light? I don't believe it's the light bulbs. It acts like a
>> faulty circuit board, that fails when asked to do too much. The bulbs
>> have flashed and burned out when we turn on the oven light while the
>> oven is cooking something. GE Oven Model # JB650DFBB.
>>>
>>
>> Wonder if the bulbs are being fed 220 VAC by accident some how?
>
>I'd think it unlikely and, if that were the case, wouldn't the new bulb
>act like a flashbulb (anyone remember those?<g>) the first time it was
>turned on?
>
>I've noticed the same problem of late with our oven. The OEM bulb,
>IIRC, seemed to last us about 7 years with moderate use. The
Wow. My oven bulb is 37 years old. I don't open the oven door that
<puzz...@ameritech.net> wrote:
>On 1/18/2016 8:23 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
>> On 1/17/2016 8:29 PM, jackfs...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>[snip]
>
>> to the oven light? I don't believe it's the light bulbs. It acts like a
>> faulty circuit board, that fails when asked to do too much. The bulbs
>> have flashed and burned out when we turn on the oven light while the
>> oven is cooking something. GE Oven Model # JB650DFBB.
>>>
>>
>> Wonder if the bulbs are being fed 220 VAC by accident some how?
>
>I'd think it unlikely and, if that were the case, wouldn't the new bulb
>act like a flashbulb (anyone remember those?<g>) the first time it was
>turned on?
>
>I've noticed the same problem of late with our oven. The OEM bulb,
>IIRC, seemed to last us about 7 years with moderate use. The
much, and I never turn the light on when the door's not open, but I do
use the oven 75 times a year, probably .
My refrigerator bulb might have been replaced once in 37 years.
Aren't "appliance" bulbs coated in plastic so that if they shatter,
they don't get glass all over the inside of the appliance? Isn't that
and that they are smaller than some other bulbs of the same wattage
what makes them "Appliance Bulbs"?
Micky
Jan 18, 2016, 1:46:39 PM1/18/16
to
On Mon, 18 Jan 2016 09:57:16 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"
<rmower...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>Try measuring the voltage at the bulb or if this is too hard to reach, the
>voltage on each side of the 240 volt wiring on the back of the oven. No
>more than most oven bulbs are used I would think they should last many years
>unless you turn on the bulb and leave it on while doing the cooking.
>
>It may be a voltage unbalance that is causing the side with the bulb to have
>more voltage than it should. Do this several times and with different
If this is true, could he reverse the two hots, at the socket or where
<rmower...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>Try measuring the voltage at the bulb or if this is too hard to reach, the
>voltage on each side of the 240 volt wiring on the back of the oven. No
>more than most oven bulbs are used I would think they should last many years
>unless you turn on the bulb and leave it on while doing the cooking.
>
>It may be a voltage unbalance that is causing the side with the bulb to have
>more voltage than it should. Do this several times and with different
the cord connects to the oven, so that he's have less than 120 instead
of more, on the bulb? The heating elements would still get full
voltage. It would also be less on the control panel, but I'd be
surprised if that needed more than 100v to run right.
Unquestionably Confused
Jan 18, 2016, 2:29:06 PM1/18/16
to
On 1/18/2016 12:40 PM, Micky wrote:
> On Mon, 18 Jan 2016 08:56:41 -0600, Unquestionably Confused
> <puzz...@ameritech.net> wrote:
>
>> On 1/18/2016 8:23 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
>>> On 1/17/2016 8:29 PM, jackfs...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>> [snip]
>>
>>> to the oven light? I don't believe it's the light bulbs. It acts like a
>>> faulty circuit board, that fails when asked to do too much. The bulbs
>>> have flashed and burned out when we turn on the oven light while the
>>> oven is cooking something. GE Oven Model # JB650DFBB.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Wonder if the bulbs are being fed 220 VAC by accident some how?
>>
>> I'd think it unlikely and, if that were the case, wouldn't the new bulb
>> act like a flashbulb (anyone remember those?<g>) the first time it was
>> turned on?
>>
>> I've noticed the same problem of late with our oven. The OEM bulb,
>> IIRC, seemed to last us about 7 years with moderate use. The
>
> Wow. My oven bulb is 37 years old. I don't open the oven door that
> much, and I never turn the light on when the door's not open, but I do
> use the oven 75 times a year, probably .
>
> My refrigerator bulb might have been replaced once in 37 years.
>
> Aren't "appliance" bulbs coated in plastic so that if they shatter,
> they don't get glass all over the inside of the appliance? Isn't that
> and that they are smaller than some other bulbs of the same wattage
> what makes them "Appliance Bulbs"?
No, AFAIK, there is no special coating on the "appliance" bulbs. You're
> On Mon, 18 Jan 2016 08:56:41 -0600, Unquestionably Confused
> <puzz...@ameritech.net> wrote:
>
>> On 1/18/2016 8:23 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
>>> On 1/17/2016 8:29 PM, jackfs...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>> [snip]
>>
>>> to the oven light? I don't believe it's the light bulbs. It acts like a
>>> faulty circuit board, that fails when asked to do too much. The bulbs
>>> have flashed and burned out when we turn on the oven light while the
>>> oven is cooking something. GE Oven Model # JB650DFBB.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Wonder if the bulbs are being fed 220 VAC by accident some how?
>>
>> I'd think it unlikely and, if that were the case, wouldn't the new bulb
>> act like a flashbulb (anyone remember those?<g>) the first time it was
>> turned on?
>>
>> I've noticed the same problem of late with our oven. The OEM bulb,
>> IIRC, seemed to last us about 7 years with moderate use. The
>
> Wow. My oven bulb is 37 years old. I don't open the oven door that
> much, and I never turn the light on when the door's not open, but I do
> use the oven 75 times a year, probably .
>
> My refrigerator bulb might have been replaced once in 37 years.
>
> Aren't "appliance" bulbs coated in plastic so that if they shatter,
> they don't get glass all over the inside of the appliance? Isn't that
> and that they are smaller than some other bulbs of the same wattage
> what makes them "Appliance Bulbs"?
thinking of the "rough service" bulbs, like for garage trouble lights,
etc. where they tend to get banged around. ... or used to. Most have a
LED set up now or fluorescent tube encased in plastic tube.
They are a smaller form factor than regular bulbs but with the same base
(A19?). Clear or frosted.
I'm beginning to think the only thing that makes them appliance bulbs is
that wording on the package<g>
Unquestionably Confused
Jan 23, 2016, 8:34:11 PM1/23/16
to
On 1/18/2016 10:30 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
> On 1/18/2016 11:11 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
>> On 1/18/2016 10:03 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
>>> I've also found that some brands of bulbs are
>>> just simply junk quality.
>>
>> I believe it to be the latter. NOTHING has been changed in the
>> electrical panel nor the stove. Usage of the oven light is not
>> excessive - if anything it's likely down from that of the first 7 years.
>>
>
> I used to have a light over my work bench. Every
> time I turned on the grinder, the filament broke.
> Different brand of bulb helped a lot.
>
> Please let us know what brand of bulb finally
> turns out to be best.
I can't tell you which bulb is the best, but the one that JUST burned
> On 1/18/2016 11:11 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
>> On 1/18/2016 10:03 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
>>> I've also found that some brands of bulbs are
>>> just simply junk quality.
>>
>> I believe it to be the latter. NOTHING has been changed in the
>> electrical panel nor the stove. Usage of the oven light is not
>> excessive - if anything it's likely down from that of the first 7 years.
>>
>
> I used to have a light over my work bench. Every
> time I turned on the grinder, the filament broke.
> Different brand of bulb helped a lot.
>
> Please let us know what brand of bulb finally
> turns out to be best.
out after less than 45 days in service was a Westinghouse, clear, 40watt
appliance bulb.
We'll see how its brother/sister do as I stocked up with three of them
in December.
bob_villain
Jan 23, 2016, 10:06:24 PM1/23/16
to
On Tuesday, January 21, 2003 at 2:23:12 PM UTC-6, webl...@nomail.com wrote:
> Does anyone have any experience with this kind of problem?
>
> I'm not an electrician but is there anything else I can try to see
> what the problem is?
>
>
> Thanks.
I just looked at our Maytag gas range...it's about 15 yrs old and I've never changed the bulb. All I can tell you is that the bulb is inside of a tempered glass half-round cover held on with a wire bail.
> Does anyone have any experience with this kind of problem?
>
> I'm not an electrician but is there anything else I can try to see
> what the problem is?
>
>
> Thanks.
I just looked at our Maytag gas range...it's about 15 yrs old and I've never changed the bulb. All I can tell you is that the bulb is inside of a tempered glass half-round cover held on with a wire bail.
manu...@gmail.com
Feb 6, 2016, 12:32:19 AM2/6/16
to
I have the same exact problem, without any solution yet.
I've gone through a dozen bulbs already
On Tuesday, January 21, 2003 at 12:23:12 PM UTC-8, webl...@nomail.com wrote:
> Hello all. I have a 12 year old GE built-in oven and over the past
> couple of months the interior oven light keeps burning out, I've gone
> through about six or seven since Nov/Dec. The lamps generally burn out
> when I open the door or push in the oven light switch, but not (with
> one exception described below) after the bulb has lit up.
>
> I did a Google search of web pages and newsgroups and came up with a
> couple of threads, one about light bulbs around the house often
> burning out and one about oven lights burning out. Both threads
> suggested checking to make sure an impedance problem with the neutral
> line wasn't causing an imbalance in the voltage on either side of the
> neutral. Apparently, the symptom,would be a high voltage reading in
> the socket.
>
> I checked the voltage in one of the kitchen sockets and it read
> 118.2V. I then put one lead of the voltmeter on the copper center
> contact of the oven light socket and the other lead on the threaded
> part of the socket and read the same 118.2V.
>
> As an experiment, I left one appliance bulb on for about 8 hours and
> it survived and I turned off the light. But the next day when I opened
> the oven door the bulb flashed and failed. I also tried a cheap 40W
> regular bulb, which survived baking something in the oven but burned
> out after a few hours when I experimentally left it on after I was
> finished baking. That experiment was probably flawed though, maybe
> regular bulbs don't survive baking.
>
> I've tried GE, Philips and Home Depot appliance bulbs.
>
> I partially pulled out the oven and could see where the oven was
> connected to the house wiring. From what I could see, the wires were
> connected with twist connectors and then the bottom of the connector
> was wrapped in electrical tape.
>
> The only thing I can think of is maybe the door and light switch are
> corroded and when they make contact, they're making a bunch of
> interrmittent contacts, cycling the bulb many times before a good
> contact is made. That would effectively put the bulb through dozens
> or hundreds of power cycles. That might burn out a bulb quickly and
> explain why the bulbs haven't failed when I left them on for hours at
> a time.
I've gone through a dozen bulbs already
On Tuesday, January 21, 2003 at 12:23:12 PM UTC-8, webl...@nomail.com wrote:
> Hello all. I have a 12 year old GE built-in oven and over the past
> couple of months the interior oven light keeps burning out, I've gone
> through about six or seven since Nov/Dec. The lamps generally burn out
> when I open the door or push in the oven light switch, but not (with
> one exception described below) after the bulb has lit up.
>
> I did a Google search of web pages and newsgroups and came up with a
> couple of threads, one about light bulbs around the house often
> burning out and one about oven lights burning out. Both threads
> suggested checking to make sure an impedance problem with the neutral
> line wasn't causing an imbalance in the voltage on either side of the
> neutral. Apparently, the symptom,would be a high voltage reading in
> the socket.
>
> I checked the voltage in one of the kitchen sockets and it read
> 118.2V. I then put one lead of the voltmeter on the copper center
> contact of the oven light socket and the other lead on the threaded
> part of the socket and read the same 118.2V.
>
> As an experiment, I left one appliance bulb on for about 8 hours and
> it survived and I turned off the light. But the next day when I opened
> the oven door the bulb flashed and failed. I also tried a cheap 40W
> regular bulb, which survived baking something in the oven but burned
> out after a few hours when I experimentally left it on after I was
> finished baking. That experiment was probably flawed though, maybe
> regular bulbs don't survive baking.
>
> I've tried GE, Philips and Home Depot appliance bulbs.
>
> I partially pulled out the oven and could see where the oven was
> connected to the house wiring. From what I could see, the wires were
> connected with twist connectors and then the bottom of the connector
> was wrapped in electrical tape.
>
> The only thing I can think of is maybe the door and light switch are
> corroded and when they make contact, they're making a bunch of
> interrmittent contacts, cycling the bulb many times before a good
> contact is made. That would effectively put the bulb through dozens
> or hundreds of power cycles. That might burn out a bulb quickly and
> explain why the bulbs haven't failed when I left them on for hours at
> a time.
Paint...@unlisted.moo
Feb 6, 2016, 4:14:34 AM2/6/16
to
On Fri, 5 Feb 2016 21:32:03 -0800 (PST), manu...@gmail.com wrote:
>I have the same exact problem, without any solution yet.
>
>I've gone through a dozen bulbs already
>
>
>On Tuesday, January 21, 2003 at 12:23:12 PM UTC-8, webl...@nomail.com wrote:
>> Hello all. I have a 12 year old GE built-in oven and over the past
>> couple of months the interior oven light keeps burning out, I've gone
>> through about six or seven since Nov/Dec. The lamps generally burn out
>> when I open the door or push in the oven light switch, but not (with
>> one exception described below) after the bulb has lit up.
>>
Didnt we just have this topic a couple weeks ago....
>I have the same exact problem, without any solution yet.
>
>I've gone through a dozen bulbs already
>
>
>On Tuesday, January 21, 2003 at 12:23:12 PM UTC-8, webl...@nomail.com wrote:
>> Hello all. I have a 12 year old GE built-in oven and over the past
>> couple of months the interior oven light keeps burning out, I've gone
>> through about six or seven since Nov/Dec. The lamps generally burn out
>> when I open the door or push in the oven light switch, but not (with
>> one exception described below) after the bulb has lit up.
>>
There's an easy solution. Get a bright flashlight and use that.
At least you wont be baking the flashlight like you do to those bulbs.
Mr Photon
Feb 6, 2016, 10:32:54 AM2/6/16
to
On 2/6/2016 12:32 AM, manu...@gmail.com wrote:
> I have the same exact problem, without any solution yet.
>
> I've gone through a dozen bulbs already
A common cause of premature bulb failure is a loose connection
> I have the same exact problem, without any solution yet.
>
> I've gone through a dozen bulbs already
in the wiring to the bulb.
Sometimes it's even in the bulb socket base.
jand...@sw.rr.com
Mar 20, 2016, 9:17:56 PM3/20/16
to
I've gone bulbs as many as 3 in one week.
Stormin Mormon
Mar 21, 2016, 9:03:35 AM3/21/16
to
the bulb is being fed full 220 volts?
robert...@thielekaolin.com
May 24, 2016, 8:32:11 AM5/24/16
to
I have a 5 year old GE Profile Electric DOUBLE Wall oven. Convection on top. Conventional Oven on bottom. There are two bulbs in each oven with glass covers. I cannot keep bulbs burning in the top oven. Either Socket. The bottom oven is no problem. Bulbs in the bottom oven last years. The double oven has a single 220 volt service with neutral. So this eliminates a neutral problem coming to the oven. I think it also eliminates a problem with the socket unless I am unlucky enough to have two good sockets in the bottom oven and two bad sockets in the top oven. I had attributed it to too much heat either from self cleaning or convection and the heat was migrating to the top of oven case and getting the top bulbs too hot. Any thoughts?
On Tuesday, January 21, 2003 at 3:23:12 PM UTC-5, webl...@nomail.com wrote:
> Hello all. I have a 12 year old GE built-in oven and over the past
> couple of months the interior oven light keeps burning out, I've gone
> through about six or seven since Nov/Dec. The lamps generally burn out
> when I open the door or push in the oven light switch, but not (with
> one exception described below) after the bulb has lit up.
>
On Tuesday, January 21, 2003 at 3:23:12 PM UTC-5, webl...@nomail.com wrote:
> Hello all. I have a 12 year old GE built-in oven and over the past
> couple of months the interior oven light keeps burning out, I've gone
> through about six or seven since Nov/Dec. The lamps generally burn out
> when I open the door or push in the oven light switch, but not (with
> one exception described below) after the bulb has lit up.
>
Stormin Mormon
May 24, 2016, 9:27:49 AM5/24/16
to
On 5/24/2016 8:32 AM, robert...@thielekaolin.com wrote:
> I have a 5 year old GE Profile Electric DOUBLE
Wall oven. Convection on top. Conventional Oven
on bottom. There are two bulbs in each oven with
glass covers. I cannot keep bulbs burning in the
top oven. Either Socket. The bottom oven is no
problem. Bulbs in the bottom oven last years. The
double oven has a single 220 volt service with
neutral. So this eliminates a neutral problem
coming to the oven. I think it also eliminates a
problem with the socket unless I am unlucky enough
to have two good sockets in the bottom oven and
two bad sockets in the top oven. I had attributed
it to too much heat either from self cleaning or
convection and the heat was migrating to the top
of oven case and getting the top bulbs too hot.
Any thoughts?
I think you discarded the "problem with the
> I have a 5 year old GE Profile Electric DOUBLE
Wall oven. Convection on top. Conventional Oven
on bottom. There are two bulbs in each oven with
glass covers. I cannot keep bulbs burning in the
top oven. Either Socket. The bottom oven is no
problem. Bulbs in the bottom oven last years. The
double oven has a single 220 volt service with
neutral. So this eliminates a neutral problem
coming to the oven. I think it also eliminates a
problem with the socket unless I am unlucky enough
to have two good sockets in the bottom oven and
two bad sockets in the top oven. I had attributed
it to too much heat either from self cleaning or
convection and the heat was migrating to the top
of oven case and getting the top bulbs too hot.
Any thoughts?
neutral" a bit too early.
gramm...@gmail.com
Jun 15, 2016, 8:41:08 AM6/15/16
to
I have a 13 year old GE electric oven (a drop in) doing the same thing. Coincidence?
Stormin Mormon
Jun 15, 2016, 7:28:27 PM6/15/16
to
On 6/15/2016 8:41 AM, gramm...@gmail.com wrote:
> I have a 13 year old GE electric oven (a drop in) doing the same thing. Coincidence?
>
You really need to call in a priest.
> I have a 13 year old GE electric oven (a drop in) doing the same thing. Coincidence?
>
--
Uncle Monster
Jun 15, 2016, 9:08:35 PM6/15/16
to
On Wednesday, June 15, 2016 at 7:41:08 AM UTC-5, gramm...@gmail.com wrote:
> I have a 13 year old GE electric oven (a drop in) doing the same thing. Coincidence?
Unfortunately, 10 years ago, the OP was electrocuted when he tried to change the lightbulb in his oven. It was really tragic. He left behind 24 children and 400 gerbils. Very sad. o_O
> I have a 13 year old GE electric oven (a drop in) doing the same thing. Coincidence?
[8~{} Uncle Oven Monster
FromTheRafters
Jun 15, 2016, 10:12:17 PM6/15/16
to
Uncle Monster pretended :
I replaced the light bulb in my EZ Bake oven with a government mandated
compact flourescent one to help fight global warming. It lasts a lot
longer than conventional convectional ones, but the cake comes out like
pudding. Kinda like the whole Obamacare thing, a great idea that
doesn't work.
compact flourescent one to help fight global warming. It lasts a lot
longer than conventional convectional ones, but the cake comes out like
pudding. Kinda like the whole Obamacare thing, a great idea that
doesn't work.
Uncle Monster
Jun 16, 2016, 12:23:03 AM6/16/16
to
http://www.processheating.com/index.php?page=Coneheater2
http://www.processheating.com/pdf/24%20Cone%20Heaters.pdf
https://www.heatersplus.com/scb.html
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Easy-Bake_Oven
[8~{} Uncle Oven Monster
Dot
Jun 16, 2016, 4:26:55 AM6/16/16
to
>> I have a 13 year old ...
>>
>
> You really need to call in a priest.
>
Thirteen is a little too old for a priest. They usually like them around age 5.
>
> You really need to call in a priest.
>
Stormin Mormon
Jun 16, 2016, 8:51:17 AM6/16/16
to
Tekkie®
Jun 22, 2016, 4:05:16 PM6/22/16
to
Uncle Monster posted for all of us...
He was overcooked...
--
Tekkie
--
Tekkie
vel...@gmail.com
Oct 17, 2016, 11:53:40 PM10/17/16
to
Just checking if you found a solution. We have the same problem in our GE range JB850SF1SS. The lower oven bulb burns out frequently.
Zoe
Oct 22, 2016, 10:59:38 PM10/22/16
to
I have a similar problem with a GE Profile PT925sn4ss, this is an electric, double oven in a single space...heat up the top oven to about 450, the light goes out and won't turn on automatically when the oven door is opened. Turn the oven completely off and you can operate the oven light by pushing the oven light switch on, but the light still won't turn on by opening the door. Cool the oven down, and the light starts working normally again whenever the oven door is opened. Also noticed the top oven light goes out when the bottom oven is running at temps over 350. Turn the bottom oven off and let it cool down and the upper lights start working again. Other than the light issue, the oven works fine. Anybody else have this issue?
chicken...@gmail.com
Nov 28, 2016, 2:43:04 AM11/28/16
to
GE Techs are about as bright as the dead bulbs they replace. They have been coming to my house under warranty throughout my warranty period and I am on my fifth set of bulbs in my double oven. It's a high end stainless steel profile free standing stove double oven. The techs keep saying the bulbs. I said your bulbs all bulbs fail regardless. They keep replacing them but wait...The GE corporate consumer representative told me GE was aware of the bulb failures a couple of years ago. There was not enough getter material by the manufacturer for GE which made bulbs for many brands. I know it's the oven not the bulbs because this unit replaced the GE builder grade version of the same and never had bulb issues. They are sending me some special blue bulbs that have proper getter material wink 😉. And they both fail when not used so when you go for them twice a month maybe...they are both blown. I say relay arcing.
dcot...@gmail.com
Jan 5, 2017, 3:15:30 PM1/5/17
to
Oren
Jan 5, 2017, 4:32:20 PM1/5/17
to
On Thu, 5 Jan 2017 12:15:27 -0800 (PST), dcot...@gmail.com wrote:
>On Tuesday, January 21, 2003 at 2:23:12 PM UTC-6, webl...@nomail.com wrote:
>
>I have a Frigidaire oven and for the last month, I have gone through 2 GE Appliance bulbs and 2 Phillips Appliance bulbs (all clear 40W bulbs). I am going to try baking and broiling with the light off, and see if the bulbs last longer than a couple of weeks. I wonder if maybe the bulbs' construction has changed, since this is apparently not an isolated problem!
Maybe the bulbs are not making good contact in the socket. I'd turn
>On Tuesday, January 21, 2003 at 2:23:12 PM UTC-6, webl...@nomail.com wrote:
>
>I have a Frigidaire oven and for the last month, I have gone through 2 GE Appliance bulbs and 2 Phillips Appliance bulbs (all clear 40W bulbs). I am going to try baking and broiling with the light off, and see if the bulbs last longer than a couple of weeks. I wonder if maybe the bulbs' construction has changed, since this is apparently not an isolated problem!
off the breaker to the oven to inspect the socket. The tab may need to
be lifted up and or burnished with a small piece of emery cloth.
Poor contact of the bulb and socket can cause bulbs to fail. make sure
the bulb is snug in the socket.
YMMV
lloydlloydal...@gmail.com
Jan 10, 2017, 8:22:39 PM1/10/17
to
I have a 20yo GE upper-oven that had the same symptoms but 123vac at the socket. Fix was to trip oven CB, remove bulb cover and bulb, remove 3x 1/4" hex screws holding top control panel on, remove 2x 1/4" hex screws inside oven on bulb socket flange, then got in behind upper panel and removed 2x electrical spring clips to back of ceramic socket and removed entire socket assembly down through upper oven.
Inspection of socket assembly revealed bulb cover not airtight and consequently moderate grease buildup in socket which I tried to clean out.
Inspection of wiring spring clips showed heavy grease build up on wider clip and I noticed the socket-side wide lug looked like it might have an arcing scorch mark and the lug was bent to be directly over air vent hole carrying hot air from inside the socket.
Cleaned spring clips, air holes, and lugs. Bent wide lug away from air vent path, reinstalled everything, and problem seems fixed. Same bulb has survived all of the holiday cooking and even a self-cleaning cycle.
Inspection of socket assembly revealed bulb cover not airtight and consequently moderate grease buildup in socket which I tried to clean out.
Inspection of wiring spring clips showed heavy grease build up on wider clip and I noticed the socket-side wide lug looked like it might have an arcing scorch mark and the lug was bent to be directly over air vent hole carrying hot air from inside the socket.
Cleaned spring clips, air holes, and lugs. Bent wide lug away from air vent path, reinstalled everything, and problem seems fixed. Same bulb has survived all of the holiday cooking and even a self-cleaning cycle.
john.wa...@gmail.com
Jul 30, 2017, 5:23:58 PM7/30/17
to
I know this is an old thread, but we are now having this problem with a 20 year old dual wall oven. The lights in both ovens operate at the same time, so are both getting the same use. Of course, the upper oven gets more baking time than the lower one, and the upper light is the one that keeps burning out. The upper oven is a combination regular / convection oven. What I am wondering is if this is the case with any or most of the ovens that are having this problem. The fan that moves the air for convection baking seems a bit noisier than it did when new and maybe is vibrating a bit. The vibration could be causing the bulb filaments to break when the bulb is on and hot. As an experiment, we tried avoiding the convection mode for a few days, and the bulb lasted a longer, but still failed eventually. I have considered replacing the convection fan, but don't want to do that without being reasonably sure it will fix this very frustrating problem.
dpb
Jul 30, 2017, 6:40:11 PM7/30/17
to
On 07/30/2017 4:23 PM, john.wa...@gmail.com wrote:
> I know this is an old thread, but we are now having this problem
> with a 20 year old dual wall oven. ...
> I know this is an old thread, but we are now having this problem
...
> tried avoiding the convection mode for a few days, and the bulb lasted a
> longer, but still failed eventually. I have considered replacing the
> convection fan, but don't want to do that without being reasonably sure
> it will fix this very frustrating problem.
A new bulb is failing within a few _days_???!!!
> longer, but still failed eventually. I have considered replacing the
> convection fan, but don't want to do that without being reasonably sure
> it will fix this very frustrating problem.
What are you using for source of bulbs and have you checked voltages, etc.?
Don't have convection oven but the 40+ yo range here bulbs last many,
many months...we've been back to the farm for nearly 20 yr now and I
don't recall but changing the oven bulb once and that was just a few
months ago...I _may_ have done once sometime between, but long enough
ago I surely don't recall having done so.
--
Dean Hoffman
Jul 30, 2017, 7:10:07 PM7/30/17
to
On 7/30/17 4:23 PM, john.wa...@gmail.com wrote:
> I know this is an old thread, but we are now having this problem with a 20 year old dual wall oven. The lights in both ovens operate at the same time, so are both getting the same use. Of course, the upper oven gets more baking time than the lower one, and the upper light is the one that keeps burning out. The upper oven is a combination regular / convection oven. What I am wondering is if this is the case with any or most of the ovens that are having this problem. The fan that moves the air for convection baking seems a bit noisier than it did when new and maybe is vibrating a bit. The vibration could be causing the bulb filaments to break when the bulb is on and hot. As an experiment, we tried avoiding the convection mode for a few days, and the bulb lasted a longer, but still failed eventually. I have considered replacing the convection fan, but don't want to do that without being reasonably sure it will fix this very frustrating problem.
>
Have you tried rough service and/or 220 volt bulbs?
> I know this is an old thread, but we are now having this problem with a 20 year old dual wall oven. The lights in both ovens operate at the same time, so are both getting the same use. Of course, the upper oven gets more baking time than the lower one, and the upper light is the one that keeps burning out. The upper oven is a combination regular / convection oven. What I am wondering is if this is the case with any or most of the ovens that are having this problem. The fan that moves the air for convection baking seems a bit noisier than it did when new and maybe is vibrating a bit. The vibration could be causing the bulb filaments to break when the bulb is on and hot. As an experiment, we tried avoiding the convection mode for a few days, and the bulb lasted a longer, but still failed eventually. I have considered replacing the convection fan, but don't want to do that without being reasonably sure it will fix this very frustrating problem.
>
Rusty
Jul 31, 2017, 5:04:17 AM7/31/17
to
On 07/30/2017 05:23 PM, john.wa...@gmail.com wrote:
> I know this is an old thread, but we are now having this problem with a 20 year old dual wall oven. The lights in both ovens operate at the same time, so are both getting the same use. Of course, the upper oven gets more baking time than the lower one, and the upper light is the one that keeps burning out. The upper oven is a combination regular / convection oven. What I am wondering is if this is the case with any or most of the ovens that are having this problem. The fan that moves the air for convection baking seems a bit noisier than it did when new and maybe is vibrating a bit. The vibration could be causing the bulb filaments to break when the bulb is on and hot. As an experiment, we tried avoiding the convection mode for a few days, and the bulb lasted a longer, but still failed eventually. I have considered replacing the convection fan, but don't want to do that without being reasonably sure it will fix this very frustrating problem.
>
Loose electrical connections in a bulb socket can cause a bulb to fail
> I know this is an old thread, but we are now having this problem with a 20 year old dual wall oven. The lights in both ovens operate at the same time, so are both getting the same use. Of course, the upper oven gets more baking time than the lower one, and the upper light is the one that keeps burning out. The upper oven is a combination regular / convection oven. What I am wondering is if this is the case with any or most of the ovens that are having this problem. The fan that moves the air for convection baking seems a bit noisier than it did when new and maybe is vibrating a bit. The vibration could be causing the bulb filaments to break when the bulb is on and hot. As an experiment, we tried avoiding the convection mode for a few days, and the bulb lasted a longer, but still failed eventually. I have considered replacing the convection fan, but don't want to do that without being reasonably sure it will fix this very frustrating problem.
>
prematurely. Since the connections are often riveted, there's no easy
repair so you'll need to replace it.
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