Laying down hardwood floor with thinset
Mike Lazzari
> it. I'm considering laying down the floor with thinset mortar. Where
> there are depressions, I'll just "level" it with more a little more
> mortar. I'd figure I would lay each plank piece by piece, checking
> with a level, and I would know how much thinset to apply gauging
> at the bubble on the level.
>
I wouldn't recommend glueing a wood floor to concrete, period.
The floor doesn't have to be level, it has to be flat within reason. Use
a long straight edge and fill the dips with the thinset or whatever and
then go with the original plan to float.
mike
Dimitri
Alan Wong wrote:
>
> Hello All-
>
> I currently have 10 inch wide 7/8" thick tongue and groove flooring.
> It's solid three layer alpine spruce on the top and bottom layers.
huh? Layered planks?
>
> It's going to be installed in the basement.
> However the floor is 1 inch out of level from one end to the other.
> Not too worried about humidity though. I've checked and there is
> little to no moisture coming from the floor.
What's a "little" mean? Even the smallest amount needs to be taken care
of when using wooden flooring.
>
> I was going to use self-leveling concrete, put 1/8" foam and then
> float the floor but I don't really thing it will cut it, especially
> with the floor so out of level.
What won't cut it? Clarify what the issue is with this.
>
> Will this work or has anyone tried this? In theory, it's okay to do
> it. I'm considering laying down the floor with thinset mortar. Where
> there are depressions, I'll just "level" it with more a little more
> mortar. I'd figure I would lay each plank piece by piece, checking
> with a level, and I would know how much thinset to apply gauging
> at the bubble on the level.
You're going about it the hard way by leveling each individual board.
Float the floor level.
First off, 1" in 24' or whatever is not very noticeable. But if you
insist...
The moisture in the mortar will get absorbed into the wood. You need to
backprime your boards , or lay plastic over the mortar.
It will work, I've done it successfully before. Hell, I've even made
small "joists" or screeds out of mortar to level a floor out. Then using
long screws, set the floor down.
>
> ANY TIPS OR RECOMMENDATION would be greatly appreciated.
> A floating subfloor floor is not an option.
>
> Thanks,
> Alan.........
> please remove the "skip-the-spam" from my email address
--
Panta Design
http://www.the-spa.com/diablo/panta.htm
Sketches
8mm Nicolas Cage http://www.the-spa.com/diablo/nic.gif
Charlie Rose Panel http://www.the-spa.com/diablo/rose.gif
Kim Whitmyre
>
I'll just tell you how I've done it in the past, which is by cutting a
tapered grid of strips 16" on center as if they were joists to provide a
level surface to either lay plywood down, or the strip flooring . .
.Whichever would be appropriate .
Kim
Rich
Alan Wong <chef...@skip-the-spam.mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:doELOfGsNZKx8T...@4ax.com...
> Hello All-
>
> I currently have 10 inch wide 7/8" thick tongue and groove flooring.
> It's solid three layer alpine spruce on the top and bottom layers.
>
> little to no moisture coming from the floor.
>
> float the floor but I don't really thing it will cut it, especially
> with the floor so out of level.
>
>
> it. I'm considering laying down the floor with thinset mortar. Where
> there are depressions, I'll just "level" it with more a little more
> mortar. I'd figure I would lay each plank piece by piece, checking
> with a level, and I would know how much thinset to apply gauging
> at the bubble on the level.
>
> A floating subfloor floor is not an option.
I've read every bag of multi-purpose thinset I've ever used,
and every label of any admixture I use (so I can be as
smart as art james some day).
The wood specified is ALWAYS exterior grade plywood.
Therefore, you're taking a chance with any other type of
wood.
The most powerful admixture I've ever used is Laticrete's 333,
but still it may not stick to wood planks. Most wood laid
over concrete here in Florida is glued down with stuff that
almost looks like thick contact cement. They trowel it out,
let it dry to a "tacky" surface(about an hour), then hammer
the wood in with rubber mallets....but I'm not a wood guy.
You can buy a self-leveling compound that works well.
It's available at a tile distributor, and about $25 bucks
a bag, very pricey but good stuff. Once you get the floor
flat you can lay the wood the way it's supposed to be
laid. (not with thinset)
Rich
richard wardrop
vapor barrier, because your 'little or no moisture' is a killer to finished
wood . I'm not a flooring specialists, but the subs that work for me are,
and they always recommend floating a laminate flooring (not your alpine
spruce but the stuff made by Prego, Wilsonart, Armstrong etc.) over a foam
underlayment on concrete. The 1" over 24' is not worth worrying about , but,
dips are. Go to HD and pick up a little book (about $6) in their flooring
department on laying wood flooring. It will tell you the maximum dip it can
tolerate and talk about product selection parameters.
I'm of course assuming you want to do the job right and not just use up this
'laminated alpine spruce'. Last summer I did a job for an architect in
Toronto where the client changed the specs from tile to wood over a heated
concrete floor. They wanted 3/4" oak t&g planking, but both the architect
and the flooring sub had to work together to convince the client their only
option was laminate flooring. It went in and looks and performs great.
richard wardrop
ps. I love wood and do not work for any of the above mentioned companies.
Alan Wong <chef...@skip-the-spam.mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:doELOfGsNZKx8T...@4ax.com...
> Hello All-
>
> I currently have 10 inch wide 7/8" thick tongue and groove flooring.
> It's solid three layer alpine spruce on the top and bottom layers.
>
> It's going to be installed in the basement.
> However the floor is 1 inch out of level from one end to the other.
> Not too worried about humidity though. I've checked and there is
> little to no moisture coming from the floor.
>
> I was going to use self-leveling concrete, put 1/8" foam and then
> float the floor but I don't really thing it will cut it, especially
> with the floor so out of level.
>
>
> Will this work or has anyone tried this? In theory, it's okay to do
> it. I'm considering laying down the floor with thinset mortar. Where
> there are depressions, I'll just "level" it with more a little more
> mortar. I'd figure I would lay each plank piece by piece, checking
> with a level, and I would know how much thinset to apply gauging
> at the bubble on the level.
>
> ANY TIPS OR RECOMMENDATION would be greatly appreciated.
> A floating subfloor floor is not an option.
>