drywall mud recipe
rlz
started to do the taping and mudding part and I have a question about
the consistency of the mud. The five gallon bucket of mud says to add
water to get the correct consistency. Being that this is my first
major drywall project, I'm not sure what consistency to look for.
Does anyone have a recommendation for the amount of water to add to a
five gallon bucket of mud? or how to gauge the correct consistency?
Robin
Mikepier
If your talking about the 5 gallon USG joint compounds, I never added
water. It was fine out of the bucket.
Perhaps they are saying that in case you had it for a while and it
dried up.
rlz
It's USG All Purpose Jint compound. The instructions say that for
covering fasteners, the mudd can be used directly out of the bucket.
For taping, thinning should be done by adding water. Thus my question
on how much to add.
Robin
Joe
"rlz" <ro...@ellzey.net> wrote in message
news:04da59ad-5e61-48ee...@j21g2000yqh.googlegroups.com...
the method that has always worked for me is to fill your mud pan, but before
you put your knife in, dip it in a bucket of water. Do this everytime you
go back to the pan. Your knife stays wet, the mud flows better, etc etc...
good luck with your project.
jc
Master Betty
"rlz" <ro...@ellzey.net> wrote in message
news:04da59ad-5e61-48ee...@j21g2000yqh.googlegroups.com...
I just used the same product. I took as much compound out as I needed. The
directions say to add small amounts of water. I took out about 1 or 2 pints
of compound and added about 2 - 3 tablespoons of water. Mix vigorously. The
water helps with the final coat of plaster. I didn't need to sand at all and
the wall came out beautiful. I used a 14" plaster knife for the final coat.
Don't add too much water. You'd probably be better off with no water than
too much. Of course if the compound has been sitting around along time
you'll need more water. The more water you add the longer it takes to dry.
You just want the plaster to apply smoooothly and SMALL amts of water goes
along way. Since you're not familiar with the product work with small
amounts.
Oren
wrote:
Start with just a couple of cups. It is better to mix the mud in a
separate bucket, if you get it to thin you can add some more mud. Some
pros I've spoken with use "less than a quart" for a 5 gallon bucket.
Have a look at this video. It shows a good consistency. Notice when he
lifts if out that the mud is not runny. More like a cake batter?
Video:
benick
news:04da59ad-5e61-48ee...@j21g2000yqh.googlegroups.com...
Do you have a paddle mixer and a VARIABLE speed 1/2 inch drill to mix
it...If so add water to about 1/2 inch of the rim of the bucket...Start
mixing SLOWLY or you will throw mud and water everywhere and bring it up to
full speed and mix about 2-3 minutes..For the finale skim coat I add a
little more water and remix or remove some mud in a new bucket to make
room..Just toss it back in after you use some of it up and spin it again..
If you don't have a power mixer you can mix it in your mud pan unless like
me you use a haulk in which case use an empty bucket or or watever you have
handy to mix it by hand..Start with a little water and add more till it is
as thin as you want it...
Adding water does not add drying time but it does shrink a bit more..Using
it straight out of the bucket is a PITA , full of air bubbles , hard to
level or smooth out and hard on the hands and arm as it is very
stiff...HTH...
benick
news:hp076n$384$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
Not to nit pick but plaster and joint compound are 2 VERY different
things..There is no such thing as a plaster knife..It is a 14 inch taping
knife..Just wanted the OP to know what to ask for if he went looking for one
or he would be laughed at...For plaster you use flat 12 inch trowls and
haulks...HTH...
Tony L.
"rlz" <ro...@ellzey.net> wrote in message
news:04da59ad-5e61-48ee...@j21g2000yqh.googlegroups.com...
Around here, they sell several different types of compound in the 5 gal
bucket.
Your first coat should be the harder type, it say "all purpose". It dries
hard, does not sand easy. The second/third coats are applied using a
"topping compound".
You can work out of the mud pan, to check your consistency. Note how much
compound you put in the pan, add measurable amounts of water, little by
little. Find or purchase one of those $7.00 electric mixers for cake mixes
etc. Add the water, mix with the mixer, check consistency adding water as
needed & mix further. No need to add water to the entire bucket unless you
have a 1/2" drill with a mixing paddle. Those tools are too expensive to
purchase for a one time use. Besides, you may add too much water to the 5
gal bucket, unless you've done it b/4. I've done the dry compound, various
30-60-90 minutes setting types, working out of a pan. If you happen to use
setting type, you want to clean your mixer thingies b/4 you start mudding.
Otherwise, they will harden b/4 you get to them again. Use a mud knife
while mixing, to push the mud down the side of the pan, so it will mix with
water.
For instance, if doing a knock down texture, you use topping compound, mix
in a full 2 liter bottle of water to 5 gal. Done, work out of the bucket
with brush & knock down with wet taping knife.
gpsman
>
> I just used the same product. I took as much compound out as I needed. The
> directions say to add small amounts of water. I took out about 1 or 2 pints
> of compound and added about 2 - 3 tablespoons of water.
That's about the right amount.
I thin a 5g bucket with about 2 inches of water from a medium soft
drink cup.
Mud is pretty cheap, but adding water is a lot easier than getting it
out.
-----
- gpsman
Master Betty
"benick" <ben...@fairpoint.net> wrote in message
news:2a-dnaOKPNQpKC7W...@neonova.net...
That's incorrect. The act of applying compound is plastering. Look it up if
you don't believe me. You're only looking at one narrow definition of
plaster. "to lay flat like a layer of plaster." is plastering. But, If you
go to Homedepot they will call it a taping knife. I seriously doubt he'd be
laughed at as a taping knife is used for the act of plastering. Joint
compound is commonly called "drywall plaster".
And you are correct; you are nit-picking.
Colbyt
Robin
IMO, all purpose is fine as shipped for nail heads, bedding and taping
including the skin coat over the tape.
Additional coats require a small amount of water.
It is something you have to learn. But to get you started, if is has the
consistency of brownie mix that is about right for the second coat.
Thick pancake batter, or soft butter is better for the later coats.
--
Colbyt
Please come visit http://www.househomerepair.com
benick
news:hp0eft$9v5$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
ROFLMAO...Stop it I can't take it any more..My sides hurt..ROFLMAO..
Oren
wrote:
>Adding water does not add drying time but it does shrink a bit more..Using
>it straight out of the bucket is a PITA , full of air bubbles , hard to
>level or smooth out and hard on the hands and arm as it is very
>stiff...HTH...
I've only met one person that spent his career as a drywall finisher.
He was collecting SS and working side jobs when called for.
Working a knife and compound for say, 30 years was hard on him. He
wore an arm/wrist brace so he could still work. Amazing finish work
that crew could do.
Oh, he walked beside my ladder one day after I drove a long screw in a
door frame. Lowering this beast of a drill, he was hit in the head. I
apologized and asked him not to walk by when I have the drill in my
hand.
He carried a large lump on his head for a few days :-\
benick
You're full of it...Show me a link..
Answers.com.
plaster
n.
1.. A mixture of lime or gypsum, sand, and water, sometimes with fiber
added, that hardens to a smooth solid and is used for coating walls and
ceilings.
2.. Plaster of Paris.
3.. A pastelike mixture applied to a part of the body for healing or
cosmetic purposes. Also called sticking plaster.
4.. Chiefly British. An adhesive bandage.
v., -tered, -ter搏ng, -ters.
v.tr.
1.. To cover, coat, or repair with plaster.
2.. To cover or hide with or as if with a coat of plaster: plastered over
our differences.
3.. To apply a plaster to: plaster an aching muscle.
4..
1.. To cover conspicuously, as with things pasted on; overspread:
plaster the walls with advertising.
2.. To affix conspicuously, usually with a paste: plaster notices on all
the doors.
5.. To make smooth by applying a sticky substance: plaster one's hair with
pomade.
6.. To make adhere to another surface: "His hair was plastered to his
forehead" (William Golding).
7.. Informal.
1.. To inflict heavy damage or injury on.
2.. To defeat decisively
benick
news:F4WdnaCJ8JjnTy7W...@insightbb.com...
It may be "fine" right out of the bucket but it's alot harder on the
body...LOL...
rlz
>
> v.tr.
> 1.. To cover, coat, or repair with plaster.
> 2.. To cover or hide with or as if with a coat of plaster: plastered over
> our differences.
> 3.. To apply a plaster to: plaster an aching muscle.
> 4..
> 1.. To cover conspicuously, as with things pasted on; overspread:
> plaster the walls with advertising.
> 2.. To affix conspicuously, usually with a paste: plaster notices on all
> the doors.
> 5.. To make smooth by applying a sticky substance: plaster one's hair with
> pomade.
> 6.. To make adhere to another surface: "His hair was plastered to his
> forehead" (William Golding).
> 7.. Informal.
> 1.. To inflict heavy damage or injury on.
>
> - Show quoted text -
Thanks everyone for the info and the video link. I've got the tape
using the mud as it came out of the bucket. This weekend I'll work on
the skin coat by adding a little water to the mud. Then I'll finish
it. the following weekend. Of course sanding in between coats. Then
of course, there's priming and painting. Soo much fun to look forward
to....lol
Robin
Master Betty
I am, BUT, Google "joint compound plaster":
http://www.askthebuilder.com/DrywallPlaster.shtml
Plastering is also an "act" but if the OP looks at HD he should ask for a
"taping knife". If he tells them he "dry-walling" they will know what he's
talking about. (I just did it. I had to buy a new knife)
I'm sure plaster comes in many forms. You can go to any online dictionary
and see definitions of plaster. Hey!...You even said you were nit-picking. I
did a Google image search and came up with all sorts of plastering knifes
but the "taping knife" appears to be more correct where the 14" is
concerned. But what did they call them before drywall?
I asked for a plastering knife at HD and they asked me what I was doing. If
they were laughing I couldn't tell. :) I don't care anyway. It's not
uncommon for a tool to have different names and it's a silly thing to waste
time talking about.
Jim
Oren
wrote:
You talkin' 'bout the cake mixer?!
Never saw one on a job site, myself.
benick
Robin
Good luck with your project...There is nothing like the feeling of
completing a job and knowing you did it yourself and it looks good...
Tony L.
> "Tony L." <to...@invalid.org> wrote in message
> ROFLMAO...Stop it I can't take it any more..My sides hurt..ROFLMAO..
Yeah, like mixing in a pan by hand is better, like you suggested!
LMAO!!!!!!!!
Tony L.
> "rlz" <ro...@ellzey.net> wrote in message
> news:04da59ad-5e61-48ee...@j21g2000yqh.googlegroups.com...
>>I recently put up drywall in my garage (two wall and ceiling). I
>> started to do the taping and mudding part and I have a question about
>> the consistency of the mud. The five gallon bucket of mud says to add
>> water to get the correct consistency. Being that this is my first
>> major drywall project, I'm not sure what consistency to look for.
>> Does anyone have a recommendation for the amount of water to add to a
>> five gallon bucket of mud? or how to gauge the correct consistency?
>>
>> Robin
>
>
> Do you have a paddle mixer and a VARIABLE speed 1/2 inch drill to mix
> it...If so add water to about 1/2 inch of the rim of the bucket...Start
> mixing SLOWLY or you will throw mud and water everywhere and bring it up
> to full speed and mix about 2-3 minutes..For the finale skim coat I add a
> little more water and remix or remove some mud in a new bucket to make
> room..Just toss it back in after you use some of it up and spin it
> again..
They're asking about mixing mud. What in the world would make you believe
they already have the tools to do so?
LMAO!!!!!!!!!!!!! A paddle mixer, and they don't know how to mix mud.
LMAO!!!!!! GOOD ONE!
benick
I just didn't want to confuse the OP...Nuff said...Before drywall there was
plaster with wood fiber or going way back horse/animal hair plaster...And
paneling in the 60's and 70's with shag carpet...LOL...
Tony L.
> "rlz" <ro...@ellzey.net> wrote in message
> Good luck with your project...There is nothing like the feeling of
> completing a job and knowing you did it yourself and it looks good...
Hey Einstein, you should know enough to let em know, you don't sand "All
Purpose".
Just so you know, you knock down the edges, and top coat with a topping.
Don't be giving out information, if you don't know WTF you're doing.
benick
You are an idiot...Don't go away mad , just go away...
Tony L.
"Oren" <Or...@127.0.0.1> wrote in message
news:plp7r59cu5r8bnk1h...@4ax.com...
Never saw anyone mixing 20 or 30 minute setting compound then. You may
learn something when you do.
Tony L.
Wow, what great come back to show your intelligence on compounds.
Bravo!!!!! LMAO!!!!!!
benick
Yea , me either ..I can't stop laughing...A cake mixer...ROFLMAO...The guy
is an idiot..One step away from my kill file...LOL...
benick
Bye , bye assclown...welcome to my kill file...You're # 5..
Tony L.
> "Tony L." <to...@invalid.org> wrote in message
> Bye , bye assclown...welcome to my kill file...You're # 5..
LMAO!!!! Caught you with your lack of knowledge, and I'm the assclown.
LMAO!!!!!
Expand your knowledge base, that way you can share it. Instead of making
stuff up, as you go along.
Tony L.
> "Oren" <Or...@127.0.0.1> wrote in message
>Yea , me either ..I can't stop laughing...A cake mixer...ROFLMAO...The guy
>is an idiot..One step away from my kill file...LOL...
Yeah, thousands of other idiots like me, who take advantage of this guy
named Edison, instead of mixing by hand. I'd really like to see you mix
setting compounds by hand. Oh wait, you're the guy who doesn't know WTF
they're talking about, especially compounds. Silly me!!!
I'll bet you still swear by using a handsaw, instead of using power tools,
electric, gas, or battery.
Wake up, I realize you did stuff by hand 50 years ago, it's time to at
least step into the 60's!
Oren
wrote:
>Thanks everyone for the info and the video link. I've got the tape
>using the mud as it came out of the bucket. This weekend I'll work on
>the skin coat by adding a little water to the mud. Then I'll finish
>it. the following weekend. Of course sanding in between coats. Then
>of course, there's priming and painting. Soo much fun to look forward
>to....lol
>
>Robin
Let us know the final results and your experience. Many posters never
come back and follow up. It is appreciated to know how things work
out.
BTW, I would paint with white/light paint for a garage. SWMBO wanted
one garage painted, she picked "banana yellow". Just a change in the
color brought out all the imperfections in the finished drywall. White
paint will show fewer flaws in the finish. Hey, she painted it :-\
benick
I agree...Ben Moore High Hide Flat white or any light color works
wonders...LOL..I did a quicky CHEAP 2 coats of mud , no sanding on a garage
ceiling (fire requirement for living space above) and it looked pretty good
with that paint...I was pleasantly surprised as was my friend...LOL...
Oren
wrote:
I won't be learning by using a cake mixer for a fast setting material.
Never have and never will!
Steve Barker
>> started to do the taping and mudding part and I have a question about
>> the consistency of the mud. The five gallon bucket of mud says to add
>> water to get the correct consistency. Being that this is my first
>> major drywall project, I'm not sure what consistency to look for.
>> Does anyone have a recommendation for the amount of water to add to a
>> five gallon bucket of mud? or how to gauge the correct consistency?
>>
>> Robin
>
> water. It was fine out of the bucket.
> Perhaps they are saying that in case you had it for a while and it
> dried up.
Mud straight out of the bucket is fine for filling big gaps, but you
certainly can't do good finish work that way. It must be thinned down
either in the bucket or individual batches in the tray.
s
Phisherman
wrote:
>I recently put up drywall in my garage (two wall and ceiling). I
>started to do the taping and mudding part and I have a question about
>the consistency of the mud. The five gallon bucket of mud says to add
>water to get the correct consistency. Being that this is my first
>major drywall project, I'm not sure what consistency to look for.
>Does anyone have a recommendation for the amount of water to add to a
>five gallon bucket of mud? or how to gauge the correct consistency?
>
>Robin
Mix your mud thoroughly, a mixer chucked in an electric drill works
great unless you're mixing a small amount. With a very clean and dry
metal teaspoon pick up as much drywall compound as possible. Turn it
90 degrees and start counting. When it drops at 3 seconds, it's just
right for taping. If you add more water and stir, clean and dry the
teaspoon again before you test. If you want to tecture a wall or
stipple a ceiling make it thicker. The last drywall coat should be
slightly thinner.
"<<<__ Bøb __>>>"
benick
news:WgUsn.196696$Dv7....@newsfe17.iad...
Robin
Horse Hockey...All it does is make the room smell better and your eyes burn
when you sand it...Old drywallers liked to use it to cover up the beer and
pot oder on them when they came back from break and lunch...LOL...
DanG
done with a hard steel trowel similar to a concrete trowel and the
plaster is maneuvered on a plasterer's hawk.
There are some drywall finishers who do use a special concrete
type trowel that has a slight arc designed into it, especially on
butt joints. This, again, requires a hawk.
--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
dgri...@7cox.net
"Master Betty" <ne...@mind.com> wrote in message
news:hp0gh4$ngv$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
>
> "benick" <ben...@fairpoint.net> wrote in message
> news:2a-dnaOKPNQpKC7W...@neonova.net...
>> "Master Betty" <ne...@mind.com> wrote in message
>> news:hp076n$384$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
>>>
>>> "rlz" <ro...@ellzey.net> wrote in message
>>> news:04da59ad-5e61-48ee...@j21g2000yqh.googlegroups.com...
>>>>I recently put up drywall in my garage (two wall and ceiling).
>>>>I
>>>> started to do the taping and mudding part and I have a
>>>> question about
>>>> the consistency of the mud. The five gallon bucket of mud
>>>> says to add
>>>> water to get the correct consistency. Being that this is my
>>>> first
>>>> major drywall project, I'm not sure what consistency to look
>>>> for.
>>>> Does anyone have a recommendation for the amount of water to
>>>> add to a
>>>> five gallon bucket of mud? or how to gauge the correct
>>>> consistency?
>>>>
>>>> Robin
>>>