Romex across joists
PressMP
off-line) I need to run some romex from a center ceiling fixture to a side
wall. The ceiling is lathe and plaster. Short of removing enough ceiling to
drill holes in the center of the joists, is anything else acceptable?
--running under each joist and protecting cable with some kind of U shaped
metal protector..then plastering over?
--notching each joist and protecting with nail plates?
or what?
thanks
jiva
It's ok to run across top of joists. Presuming your not working between
ceiling & floor. If there's any chance of someone stepping on it you should
protect it ... with a board or something.
"Goodbye" said the fox to the Little Prince. "And now here is my secret,
a very simple secret: It is only with the heart that one can rightly see,
what is essential is invisible to the eye"
jim bilderback -- please remove the * if you'd care to email.
Dave Marulli
bit with enough extensions to reach your destination?
PressMP wrote:
>
> After trouble with an old "knob and tube" circuit, (and taking the circuit
> off-line) I need to run some romex from a center ceiling fixture to a side
> wall. The ceiling is lathe and plaster. Short of removing enough ceiling to
> drill holes in the center of the joists, is anything else acceptable?
> --running under each joist and protecting cable with some kind of U shaped
> metal protector..then plastering over?
> --notching each joist and protecting with nail plates?
> or what?
>
> thanks
Phil Munro
>
> After trouble with an old "knob and tube" circuit, (and taking the circuit
> off-line) I need to run some romex from a center ceiling fixture to a side
> wall. The ceiling is lathe and plaster. Short of removing enough ceiling to
> drill holes in the center of the joists, is anything else acceptable?
> --running under each joist and protecting cable with some kind of U shaped
> metal protector..then plastering over?
> --notching each joist and protecting with nail plates?
> or what?
>
> thanks
remove the old k&t wiring and use the holes for the romex. Puting wire
*over/under* a joist and plastering on the wire is *not* good, and you
must not notch a joist. --Phil
--
Phil Munro Dept of Electrical Engineering
mailto:pcm...@cc.ysu.edu Youngstown State University
Youngstown, Ohio 44555
danh...@infonet.isl.net
fish the wire through using the same hole in the ceiling. No law that
says that the holes have to be drilled square to the joists.
In <369B8A...@kodak.com>, Dave Marulli <mar...@kodak.com> writes:
>What about making a small enough opening so that you can use a flexible
>bit with enough extensions to reach your destination?
>
>
>PressMP wrote:
>>
>> After trouble with an old "knob and tube" circuit, (and taking the circuit
>> off-line) I need to run some romex from a center ceiling fixture to a side
>> wall. The ceiling is lathe and plaster. Short of removing enough ceiling to
>> drill holes in the center of the joists, is anything else acceptable?
>> --running under each joist and protecting cable with some kind of U shaped
>> metal protector..then plastering over?
>> --notching each joist and protecting with nail plates?
>> or what?
>>
>> thanks
>
>
Dan Hicks
Hey!! My advice is free -- take it for what it's worth!
http://www.millcomm.com/~danhicks
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Human
I assume that this is taking place between floors since the
option of runnig on *top* isn't being discussed.
If you are crossing joists then you are running parallel to the
lath strips. You can remove one or two strips from the fixture
over to the wall. This gives you a small more easily patched
section. You can drill a hole somewhat larger than the romex
because unless you do, it'll be hard to thread the romex thru due to
the fact that the holes will be going thru the joist on a skew
upward.
You don't mention any texture or lack thereof or whether or not
any coves are in the ceiling.
Good luck and best wishes,
Bob Amberger, Pleasanton, CA
In article <19990112111420...@ng-fi1.aol.com>,
pre...@aol.com says...
PressMP
lathe--run the romex under the joist and protect with a plate, and plaster--is
that acceptable?
PressMP
and...what exactly is wire mold?
>Think about going in the WRONG direction to get to where you want.
>Sometimes you can run WITH the ceiling joists, then down into a
>basement or a crawl, and then up to a switch, etc. Sometimes the
>direct route is not the easiest route for rework.
>
>If you need to go against the joists, bend your Romex up into the air
>between the joists so the next owner doesn't cut into them by mistake.
>When you get to the joist, you shouldn't need to notch the
>timbers...or very little. The depth of the lathe and plaster should
>be less than the Romex...so just run your Romex between two sections
>of lathe. Cover those joist areas with metal protective pieces of
>your choice. I use pieces of Wire Mold.
>
>
TimothyBil
>timbers...or very little.
Just remember - most of the load bearing being done by the joist is being done
by the top and bottom edges, one in compression and one in stretching. A notch
in either edge can seriously weaken a joist. On the other hand, a hole less
than half the width of the joist has very little effect on the total strength
of the joist.
Phil Munro
>
> On Tue, 12 Jan 1999 17:19:00 -0500, Phil Munro <pcm...@cc.ysu.edu>
> wrote:
>
> > You are thinking of doing some plastering anyway, so if you can, just
> >remove the old k&t wiring and use the holes for the romex. Puting wire
> >*over/under* a joist and plastering on the wire is *not* good, and you
> >must not notch a joist. --Phil
>
Who says which? I say both, but perhaps "should not notch a joist"
would be better. It hurts the structural integrity of the joist. Also,
anytime romex is laid on or near a surface and then covered, there is a
significant risk of damaging it. Code, I think, frowns on that.
If plastering is expected anyway, some ceiling damage is in order to
be able to get the romex up near the center of the joists. Perhaps use
the old k&t holes as I suggested, remove one or two lath strips as
another person suggested, or reroute the wires as someone suggested.
But remodeling/rewiring requires study of each situation, and without
seeing it, these suggestions are just that, suggestions and ideas.--Phil
John Hascall
}Wire Mold is a metal channel (product) that fastens to the OUTSIDE of
}the walls and ceilings. Then you run your electrical wire thru it.
}It's used in cases where you can't or don't want to tear out walls or
}ceilings to do wiring.
}It's a brand name...there's other brands out there.
}It's decorative...so it looks relatively nice on the walls. ...
Perhaps to you -- my opinion is it looks like crap.
And it would very seriously lessen the likelyhood I
would buy a house (knowing that I would not be happy
until I ripped it out and did it right). Perhaps I
am alone in this regard, but I doubt it.
John
--
John Hascall, Software Engr. Shut up, be happy. The conveniences you
ISU Computation Center demanded are now mandatory. -Jello Biafra
mailto:jo...@iastate.edu
http://www.cc.iastate.edu/staff/systems/john/index.html <=- the usual crud
danh...@infonet.isl.net
>Trent <wor...@being.happy> wrote:
>}Wire Mold is a metal channel (product) that fastens to the OUTSIDE of
>}the walls and ceilings. Then you run your electrical wire thru it.
>}It's used in cases where you can't or don't want to tear out walls or
>}ceilings to do wiring.
>}It's a brand name...there's other brands out there.
>
>}It's decorative...so it looks relatively nice on the walls. ...
>
> Perhaps to you -- my opinion is it looks like crap.
>
> And it would very seriously lessen the likelyhood I
> would buy a house (knowing that I would not be happy
> until I ripped it out and did it right). Perhaps I
> am alone in this regard, but I doubt it.
It's kind of strange. In Norway (which I've visited a couple of times)
you see exposed wiring even in new homes. Of course there the wires only
need to be half as large, and they are (much) more attractively jacketed
than Romex. Apparently code there allows exposed wiring, and I didn't see
a lot of house burning down from damaged wiring or a lot of ambulance runs
to pick up electrocution victims while I was there. I wonder why we
require that everything be hidden, or at least imbedded in metal.
Tekkie
> you see exposed wiring even in new homes. Of course there the wires only
> need to be half as large, and they are (much) more attractively jacketed
> than Romex. Apparently code there allows exposed wiring, and I didn't see
> a lot of house burning down from damaged wiring or a lot of ambulance runs
> to pick up electrocution victims while I was there. I wonder why we
> require that everything be hidden, or at least imbedded in metal.
IDK Dan, maybe $$$. Cultures are different.
Tekkie
Greg Fretwell
>require that everything be hidden, or at least imbedded in metal.
>
MMM ... maybe because we have more lawyers here ???
Greg
Michael Pressman
TimothyBil wrote in message <19990112233831...@ng22.aol.com>...
so that explains why my 1906 house has sagged over the years--many joists
all over the house have notches on the top edges for the original gas pipes
thnx..Michael
lang...@teleport.com
wrote:
What follows is an off-topic reply to a tongue-in-cheek remark, but
here goes.
A good study in the 90's showed that this is a myth. That the US has
fewer legal providers per capita than dozens of countries. We are in
the middle of the pack, behind third world countries, oppressive
regimes, and advanced european countries.
--
Bennet K. Langlotz
lang...@teleport.com
elect...@webtv.net
marc schneider
wires are to be in the ceiling it is necessary to protect the wires from being
nailed into by putting a metal plate over it.
In article <19990112222404...@ng07.aol.com>,
pre...@aol.com (PressMP) wrote:
>thanks, I'm thinking of both your suggestions...
>and...what exactly is wire mold?
>
>>Think about going in the WRONG direction to get to where you want.
>>Sometimes you can run WITH the ceiling joists, then down into a
>>basement or a crawl, and then up to a switch, etc. Sometimes the
>>direct route is not the easiest route for rework.
>>
>>If you need to go against the joists, bend your Romex up into the air
>>between the joists so the next owner doesn't cut into them by mistake.
>>When you get to the joist, you shouldn't need to notch the
>>timbers...or very little. The depth of the lathe and plaster should
>>be less than the Romex...so just run your Romex between two sections
>>of lathe. Cover those joist areas with metal protective pieces of
>>your choice. I use pieces of Wire Mold.
>>
>>
>
>
>
Marc Schneider, Psy.D.
e-mail to: <drm...@wwa.com>
(call sign: W4NVY)
Greg Fretwell
they are less than 1.25" from the face of the stud. Those contractors
drill the center of the studs to pass the cable through.
Greg
wor...@being.happy (Trent) wrote:
>
>On Tue, 19 Jan 99 16:32:59 GMT, drm...@wwa.com (marc schneider) wrote:
>
>>Never ever run electric wires without metal plate protection. Even if
the
>>wires are to be in the ceiling it is necessary to protect the wires
from being
>>nailed into by putting a metal plate over it.
>
>Contractors do it every day.
>
>
>Trent
>
>-- Most studs are 16 inches! ...on center.
>
>
JR
drill through if it isn't an attic as long as you are 1 1/2 inches in
you're ok
marc schneider <drm...@wwa.com> wrote in article
<782c2e$324$1...@hirame.wwa.com>...
> Never ever run electric wires without metal plate protection. Even if
the
> wires are to be in the ceiling it is necessary to protect the wires from
being
> nailed into by putting a metal plate over it.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
elect...@webtv.net
da...@cris.com
>You have to run it on top of a runner board.
>
>
>Trent
This is like you said earlier...contractors do it everyday.
"Runner boards" are usually suggested under crawl spaces of houses.
Danny
>
>On Wed, 20 Jan 1999 02:17:55 GMT, "JR" <med...@nospambellsouth.net>
>wrote:
Danny
da...@cris.com