Adjusting Anderson crank window
OK
close all the way. It comes to about a half inch of closing but stays open
far enough that the latches won't catch. If I take off the screen and grab
it with my finger, it's ok. Is there a way to adjust this? We moved into
the house in the winter so it hasn't been a problem but now with the nicer
weather, I need to get this operational.
Thanks
Jeff Wisnia
OK wrote:
There isn't much operator leverage working for you when the window is
nearly closed. Friction between the window and it's frame can be enough
to cause what you are experiencing.
Try disconnecting the operating arm from the window. There's usually a
wide spot in the track on the window put there so you can spring the arm
stud out of the track. Then feel the window and see if it gets hard to
move just before it's fully closed.
If that's the problem you'll have to free up whatever is causing the
windo to drag, or learn to live with the problem.
Good luck,
Jeff
--
Jeff Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
"If you can smile when things are going wrong, you've thought of someone
to blame it on."
RB
The wood siding should not touch the exterior frame of the window.
The siding overlays the attached flashing but should stop about 1.9"
short of touching the casing.
The problem that occurs is that when the siding is applied without this
gap, as wood swells from moisture changing it will press against the
casing and cause it to bind when the window is operated. You can
frequently see the arc created in the casing, especially at the top and
bottom by placing a long straight edge along the casing's exterior top
and bottom edges.
Another maintenance item is to remove the casement window' operating
mechanism every few years and clean (wash with water and detergent),
dry, lubricate and re-install. It makes the window work much better and
isn't very difficult to do.
RB
Glenn
"RB" <R...@spamfree.com> wrote in message
news:4066B484...@spamfree.com...
> A fairly common problem with Andersen windows is incorrect installation.
and they are NOT as good as they use to be.
> The wood siding should not touch the exterior frame of the window.
> The siding overlays the attached flashing but should stop about 1.9"
> short of touching the casing.
1.9"....what the hell is that?
don't you mean 1/8"?
Glenn
"OK" <o...@ono.com> wrote in message
news:Ktp9c.34208$H17....@newssvr31.news.prodigy.com...
replace the cranking mechanism
it is probably stripped from years of use.
or maybe there is something obstructing the window from closing (check for
debris along the hinged side)
ameijers
"Glenn" <Glen...@kasamba.com> wrote in message
news:106dif5...@corp.supernews.com...
gunked up, but a real likely cause is swollen/rotted wood from the paint
wearing off the edges that rub and moisture getting in. My Grandmother's
house had same problem from years of neglected upkeep and her habit of
leaving windows open in the rain. Never did get them all working perfectly
before selling the place. And it was hell tracking down replacement
crank/latch parts, which she had broken from forcing stuck windows, and no,
they were not as high in quality. (She was hell on faucet seats, too. I
swear that old bat could break an anvil.)
aem sends....
Harry K
> OK wrote:
>
> > I've got an Anderson crank-out casement window in the bathroom that won't
> > close all the way. It comes to about a half inch of closing but stays open
> > far enough that the latches won't catch. If I take off the screen and grab
> > it with my finger, it's ok. Is there a way to adjust this? We moved into
> > the house in the winter so it hasn't been a problem but now with the nicer
> > weather, I need to get this operational.
> > Thanks
> >
> >
>
> There isn't much operator leverage working for you when the window is
> nearly closed. Friction between the window and it's frame can be enough
> to cause what you are experiencing.
>
> Try disconnecting the operating arm from the window. There's usually a
> wide spot in the track on the window put there so you can spring the arm
> stud out of the track. Then feel the window and see if it gets hard to
> move just before it's fully closed.
>
> If that's the problem you'll have to free up whatever is causing the
> windo to drag, or learn to live with the problem.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Jeff
And if you can't get it to close all the way with the crank, you could
run a string through the screen (very small hole in corner) to avoid
having to remove the screen to close it.
Harry K
RB
Glenn wrote:
> "RB" <R...@spamfree.com> wrote in message
> news:4066B484...@spamfree.com...
>
>>A fairly common problem with Andersen windows is incorrect installation.
>
>
> and they are NOT as good as they use to be.
Agreed.
>
>
>
>> The wood siding should not touch the exterior frame of the window.
>>The siding overlays the attached flashing but should stop about 1.9"
>>short of touching the casing.
>
>
> 1.9"....what the hell is that?
> don't you mean 1/8"?
Yes, 1/8"
Art
the sill is supposed to be 1/2 inch of caulk. Pretty ugly. But now I know
why...... if you have their vinyl clad windows and a sill is damaged, they
sell replacement sill covers and you need that gap of removable caulk to
install them otherwise you are going to have to call a mason.
"RB" <R...@spamfree.com> wrote in message
news:406FFDD1...@spamfree.com...
stvle...@gmail.com
Take off cover
Tighten screws...
Reattach cover then handle.
You will need a phillips head screw driver.
kathyd...@gmail.com
That worked.
I hope Glen's grandmother cut him out of her will.
