I have the sink out of the cabinet. I have the stopper out. I tried to
hold the chrome flange with my left hand while I turn the rest of the
drain body from the under side of the sink with my other hand. It
worked at first but after the first few turns, the whole inside rim
began to turn when I turned the drain pipe. It's not tight yet, there
are several threads to go. How can I hold the flange steady so I can
turn the drainpipe tight against it? I tried a broomstick, thinking a
large dowel might help keep it still but it didn't work.
Is there a gadget for this?
In my experience....it is not necessary to hold or turn the flange
much.
The way I've done this sort of installation is
place a thin donut of plumber's under the flange
install the drain body from below with large flat nut (& washer if
included)
I just stick two finger into the drain flange & screw the drain body
onto it.
the drain body / flange mating threads should screw together easily..no
need for any tools
use the large flat nut to draw the flange down into the drain recess in
the sink
I tighten the flat nut ust slightly beyond hand tght so I don't
squeeze out all the putty.
hope this helps
cheers
Bob
Are you using plumber's putty as BobK207 mentioned? As you tighten the
nut, the plumber's putty will create friction between between the flange
and sink.
The prime reason for the putty is to seal the flange so it doesn't leak
yet it is easily removable after many years. Might be a bit crunchy by
then:-)
> Are you using plumber's putty as BobK207 mentioned? As you tighten the
> nut, the plumber's putty will create friction between between the flange
> and sink.
>
> The prime reason for the putty is to seal the flange so it doesn't leak
> yet it is easily removable after many years. Might be a bit crunchy by
> then:-)
Yes, I put a rope of plumber's putty underneath the flange. It pinched
out the surplus but the flange turned anyway.
I'll try again. Maybe a turn or two of teflon tape would slick up the
threads.
No need for teflon tape on the threads...might be un-helpful. Threads
should fit up smoothly with no friction or effort.
The flange / drain body connection only needs enough grab to hold the
two together.
Make up the flange / drain body connection with the drain body shoved
up into the sink as far as the flat drain body nut allows.
Clock the assembly as you want it in it's final state (pop up lever
hole aft)
Hold the drain body firmly & tighten the flat nut (thus drawing the
puttied flange down into the since recess)
If you hold the drain body from turning & just tighten the flat
nut....no torque should be transmitted to the flange. If the flange
turns at all with respect to the sink there will be a good chnace that
the putty will tear & create a leak path.
cheers
Bob
Liquid Nails works if you plan to move soon:-)
Just kidding! DON'T do it.