J B Weld or other epoxy on leaky pipe joint

[p...@nospam.com]

I was wondering about the effectiveness of JB Weld or similar quick
cure epoxy products on leaky pipe joints pinhole type leaks ( in
copper sweat fiitings and galvanized fittings ). I know its not the
best way but will it work and hold up .

[p...@nospam.com]

A little more explanation - The house has mix of copper lines and
I'am slowly replacing the galvanized on an as need basis. I tee -d
into a copper line to run some new supplies to a sink in rental
propert occuppied by an impatient tenant. I need a quick solution.

Problem # 1, - I was unable to get all of the water out (because I
didn't have access to all faucets and of the way the pipes are hung)
so a couple of the sweat joints have pinhole leaks with a little
stream of water spurting out. Will the epoxies work in lieu of
starting over ?

Problem #2 - After getting the leaks in copper resolved . I will have
to cut the galvanized and go back the next fitting and cap or plug it
it. However I am concerned about what what to do if it breaks at the
fitting ? Would the expoxies work hear too ?

BTW - Which epox product ( Std J-B Wed , J-B quick , or the putty type
product should I use - I need a fast curing time but want it to
work.)

Thanks

[db...@sprynet.com]

if you having problems with pin hole leaks on the joints its because you
not sweating the pipe ritht, get someone to do it that knows how to do
it or learn how to do it. the jb weld stuff might or might not work but
i would never use it in an application that if it fails will result in
alot of damage(water flowing maybe for days).
get off the money and spend some to get it fixed right.

[Mark Harris]

I agee with the previous reply. Do it right- That means no epoxy of any
type. Re-sweat any copper/copper joints and reset and copper/galv
transitions. Buy whatever is required to do it right. If water in the line
is a problem, they sell water stop balls which dissolve over a few hours but
hold any residual water back in the line while you are working on it.

Do it right today and be done with it.

M

<p...@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:3b71230...@news.speedfactory.net...

[p...@nospam.com]

I'm pretty sure the copper joints were bad because of water in the
lines. Now to look for the water stop balls ( are they any better
than bread ? )

On Wed, 08 Aug 2001 14:38:31 GMT, "Mark Harris" <markh...@home.com>
wrote:

[Play4abuck]

Fiberglass repair kits for auto gas tanks should work well! But I'd re-do
the joints myself.

Try using the paste solder in stead of the rolled solder, it may be easy for
you.

Here's some info I cut and pasted from HomeCentral.com - Home Improvement
Guides

Plumbing

Copper - Soldering Pipe
Copper pipe and fittings must be clean. Sand the outside end of the pipe
and the inside of each fitting with fine sandpaper. Apply flux to both
surfaces and assemble the joint. Leave one end of the pipe open to release
hot-air pressure.
Direct the flame of your propane torch to the fitting more than the pipe.
Heat all sides evenly. Then touch the tip of the solder wire to the edge of
the fitting. If it's hot enough, the solder will flow rapidly into the
joint. Allow the pipe to cool before moving it.
There must not be any water dripping through the line when you solder.
It's hard to adequately heat a wet pipe. Even if you get the pipe hot enough
to melt solder, the water inside will turn to steam, escape through the
joint and ruin the bond. If old valves don't fully shut off the flow, wad a
piece of white bread without crust (plumbing can be as fussy as a
three-year-old), and stuff it into the pipe before soldering. The bread will
hold back the water long enough to solder but will flush away quickly
through an open valve once water pressure is restored.

Safety
Use a heat shield near any flammable surface. Always have a fire
extinguisher and a spray bottle filled with water handy when you solder
pipe. Remember, you won't have the water turned on when you're working.
Wear eye protection, a heavy, long-sleeved wool shirt and leather gloves.
Safety-related resources on the Web:

Old House
If you connect new copper piping to older galvanized steel supplies, use
a dielectric coupling. This plastic-gasketed fitting separates the copper
and steel to prevent corrosion.

Cheers,
Jim

p...@nospam.com wrote in message <3b71230...@news.speedfactory.net>...

[J Kelly]

We have a water cooled high power TV transmitter at the station where
I work. Due to a mechanical failure, the water in the cooling coil
froze solid, causing the coil to burst in several places. We used JB
to repair at least 6 splits in the coil. It was under 90-100 lbs of
pressure at 140+ degrees. Seemed to hold up well. Can't believe we
were on the air thanks to nothing but JB Weld.. Lasted over six
months until we finally got a new coil made to replace the damaged
one.

On Wed, 08 Aug 2001 11:35:31 GMT, p...@nospam.com wrote:

---
Josh

woody_...@hotmail.dot.com

[Wyzkyd]

They may or may not work, but they will all fail in due time. I've used both
with mixed results for temporary fixes. Cut the line upline from the bad
joint to allow water to run out before it gets to your joint. Take be bad
joint apart and clean and sand it and re-sweat it. Get a compression joiner
and rejoin the two ends that you just cut. You can get the part at Home
depot for about $3.00 and it's a permanent fix for joining lengths of pipe
when you cannot otherwise stop water from flowing.
DJ

<p...@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:3b71230...@news.speedfactory.net...

[Michael Baugh]

First off, J B Weld takes about 15 hours to cure.
If you want to get a quick cure 2 part epoxy, try Copper-Bond.

<p...@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:3b71230...@news.speedfactory.net...

[Mapes]

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p...@nospam.com <p...@nospam.com> wrote:

>I was wondering about the effectiveness of JB Weld or similar quick
>cure epoxy products on leaky pipe joints pinhole type leaks ( in
>copper sweat fiitings and galvanized fittings ). I know its not the
>best way but will it work and hold up .

There's an epoxy made specifically for plumbing - comes in a dual syringe
dispenser, and it works well. I don't know how it differs from other
epoxies, like JB Weld, but most should work and aren't toxic (unless filled
with certain metals), at least not unofficially.

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[p...@nospam.com]

Thats what I did . Thanks to all for the advice. It would be nice to
know how long the the quck cure expoxies ( like the Rectorseal or
other product mentioned would last)

On Wed, 8 Aug 2001 17:18:53 -0400, "Wyzkyd" <ven...@theoffice.com>
wrote:

[db...@sprynet.com]

it will last one hour or about 30 years? you will never know. i put
some jb weld on a washingmachine tub that had a pin hole leak and was
trying to make it last just one more year, it lasted five more and the
motor went bad, but the jb weld was holding the water in.