Can't pull Honda HRR216VKA lawn mower backwards anymore

[Rebel1]

It's a walk-behind with a variable speed transmission that powers the
rear wheels. Works okay forward, but can no longer pull it backwards. If
I turn it on its side, I can turn both rear wheels in the forward
direction only, and I hear a ratcheting sound from each wheel. Try the
reverse direction, and they lock firmly, without even the slightest
movement in the reverse direction of the drive axle.

Thanks for you suggestions.

R1

[aemeijers]

No suggestions, but this is a good example of why I'll never buy a
self-propelled mower (unless it is a tractor, of course.) I suppose for
some people with large flat unobstructed lots, they make sense, but I
have to do so much backing and pulling to get around all the
obstructions in my yard, the self-propelled would just get in the way.

--
aem sends....

[DerbyDad03]

For what it's worth, you are not alone.

This thread mentions "tranny replacement" for the symptoms that you
describe.

http://www.lawn-mowers-review.com/honda-hrr216-lawn-mower.html

[Stormin Mormon]

It's mandated by the government, for your own good.
Certainly, you don't want Jones to come back? And, Squealer
pranced back and forth, his tail wagging in a most
convincing manner. (Animal Farm, by George Orwell.)

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.


"Rebel1" <Reb...@optonline.net> wrote in message
news:4e933e69$0$32271$607e...@cv.net...

[Rebel1]

On 10/10/2011 2:50 PM, Rebel1 wrote:

Since posting my initial message, I spend 50 minutes cutting the lawn.
For whatever reason, most of the time I was able to pull it backwards. I
couldn't find a pattern (eg. pulling while on a slight up slope vs. a
down slope).

After finishing, I turned the mower on its side and turned the rear
wheels. The axle between each wheel and the transmission in the middle
of the mower now turned. Suggests something in the gear box.

Caution: The gear box is filled with oil, not grease, and it will come
running out unless the mower is completely inverted. Before inverting,
drain the engine oil. If there is a little gasoline in the tank, the
tight-fitting cap will probably prevent it from leaking out. But be
prepared, and work outside.

R1

[G Mulcaster]

On Mon, 10 Oct 2011 14:50:19 -0400, Rebel1 <Reb...@optonline.net>
wrote:

On my Honda HHR217HXX there was a black plastic flap that hung down
and dragged behind the rear wheels. When the mower was pulled
backward, the flap would dig in to prevent such action.

The flap was removed. Now, pulling backward is no problem.

Not what you describe; however, it might be worth a look should you
have a similar flap.

Gary

[Rebel1]

Gary,

I do have that flap. And often times it does fight me when pulling back,
because it folds under the mower. But I had the problem on a concrete
garage floor and with the mower on its side, as I manually tried turning
the wheels backward.

R1

[hr(bob) hofmann@att.net]

> R1- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

I find on my Craftsman mower, after I release the drive handle, that
if I move the mower forward a couple of inches, and then pull
backwards that it always allows me to go backwards. If I just release
the drive handle and try to pull it backwards, sometimes it will not
go backwards. I then push it forward a couple of inches and find that
it goes backwards just fine. This is not due to the rear mower
protection flap as I have already shortened that so that it does not
hang up on the lawn when pulling backwards. Less protection, but a
LOT easier to use the mower as I do have a lot of pulling to get
around a lot of plants that my wife loves scattered around the yard,

[aemeijers]

Again, that is why I personally will never have a self-propelled mower.
My yard also requires a lot of backing up, so the self-propelled isn't
much use, but it IS a lot more moving parts to get bollixed up. For me,
at least, it violates the KISS principle. The closer I can get to an
anvil, the better.

--
aem send...

[notbob]

On 2011-10-11, aemeijers <aeme...@att.net> wrote:

> at least, it violates the KISS principle. The closer I can get to an
> anvil, the better.

While I tend to agree, no anvil at all is even better. I think
Honda has turned the power mower into an overly complex system, but no
more complex than the absurd lengths homeowners will go to for their
precious lawns. I personally prefer my natural wooded landscape with
no lawn or lawnmowers

nb

[DerbyDad03]

On Oct 11, 12:34 am, "hr(bob) hofm...@att.net" <hrhofm...@att.net>
wrote:

> around a lot of plants that my wife loves scattered around the yard,- Hide quoted text -

>
> - Show quoted text -

re: "Less protection due to shortened flap."

My wifs buys our dogs these hooves to chew on:

http://images.petfooddirect.com/2031411111_lg.jpg

I usually scan the yard before mowing, but I missed one the other day.

My Honda, with full flap still intact, shot one those hooves out from
under the mower at such a high speed that I have no idea where it came
out.

All I know is I heard a loud BANG! as it hit the house and then landed
in driveway about 20 feet from where I was mowing. There was a mark on
the house in the 5' area between the glass storm door and the glass on
the garage door, right level with the middle of the garage door
windows. A few feet in either direction and I'd be replacing at least
a pane of glass.

The height was about face level of most of the people that live in my
house. I'm sure glad no one standing anywhere near the area.

[Frank]

Mine's OK. Is nice to be reminded/know that there is 4 year warranty.
I think manual says there should be cable adjustments and the like done
at dealer after a year, but who pays attention to these things?

If this is a known problem, maybe Honda can be persuaded to do it under
warranty even after warranty period. I had a similar situation with my
car and manufacturer rebated about a third of cost.

[aemeijers]

Preachin' to the choir here. When I hit the lotto and build my dream
house, you won't be able to see any neighbor houses. I'll bush-hog a 50
foot firebreak around the house 2-3 times a year, and aside from that,
whatever grows, grows. Need to have sunlight on the house, though. Deep
woods houses always smell like cabins, since they never dry out.

But back here in realityville- I need to keep my neighbors from burning
my place down while I am at work, or whining to the township about me.
So, I mow, as seldom as I think I can get away with. No water, no
fertilizer, no chemicals. The small animals prefer my lawn- it doesn't
smell funny to them.

--
aem sends...

[tra...@optonline.net]

> car and manufacturer rebated about a third of cost.- Hide quoted text -

>
> - Show quoted text -

I had a Honda Harmony and the transmission failed after
not too many years and not all that much use. The tranny
is a real bitch to replace. Lot of little parts to take off and
hopefully get back together again if you put a new one in.
Took it apart and found that the main drive bearing just
wore out and fell apart. It sounds like the tranny on this
one is shot too.

I even bought the service manual, and I'm good at doing
all kinds of mechanical work, but given how complicated
it was and the cost, $135, I never did put one in. Mower is
still here in pieces.
I bought a Sears for $175 instead. The Honda does the
best, neatest cut and the twin blade design is the best
mulcher I've seen. But at $600 I expected it to last longer
than it did. The Sears has significantly more power and
uses a belt slip system to give infinite speed control. And
there is no transmission to crap out.

[Rebel1]

Thanks, Bob, for the excellent tip. I'll try it the next time I have the
problem.

On 10/11/2011 12:34 AM, hr(bob) hof...@att.net wrote:

[tn...@mucks.net]

On Mon, 10 Oct 2011 14:50:19 -0400, Rebel1 <Reb...@optonline.net>
wrote:

>It's a walk-behind with a variable speed transmission that powers the

Don't know about the 216 but I assume the 217 has the same ratchet
drive. If that's so then the drive key or keys are wore enough that
they do not return to their seat when pulling the mower backwards.
If they are bad enough they will come completely out of the seat and
will not return. It should be noted that forward drive will still work
even in this worn out condition.

[Fred]

Your problem has nothing to do with the transmission. Each wheel has a
ratchet. The reason for the ratchet is to allow free wheel movement when
pulling backwards. That is the only reason for a ratchet assembly in the
first place.

Within the ratchet assembly the woodruff key catches the perpendicular
slope of the ratchet when the mower is being driven. When pulling the mower
backwards the inclined slope of the ratchet pushes the woodruff key back
into the key seat of the shaft to allow for free wheeling.

Inspect the shaft key seats, springs, internal ratchet teeth, and replace
the woodruff drive keys. Use grease on everything.

[Rebel1]

As you can see from my October 10, 4:17 pm post, all of a sudden I was
able to pull in backwards, for unknown reasons.

The mower is only 13 months old, so it's not likely to need grease or
have broken parts in the wheels. The key thing is that with the mower on
its side, I couldn't turn either wheel backwards. All I could do is turn
the forward (and hear the ratcheting as I did so). Since both wheels
were affected equally, the problem had to be in the transmission.

[tn...@mucks.net]

>> Your problem has nothing to do with the transmission. Each wheel has a
>> ratchet. The reason for the ratchet is to allow free wheel movement when
>> pulling backwards. That is the only reason for a ratchet assembly in the
>> first place.
>>
>> Within the ratchet assembly the woodruff key catches the perpendicular
>> slope of the ratchet when the mower is being driven. When pulling the mower
>> backwards the inclined slope of the ratchet pushes the woodruff key back
>> into the key seat of the shaft to allow for free wheeling.
>>
>> Inspect the shaft key seats, springs, internal ratchet teeth, and replace
>> the woodruff drive keys. Use grease on everything.
>
>As you can see from my October 10, 4:17 pm post, all of a sudden I was
>able to pull in backwards, for unknown reasons.
>
>The mower is only 13 months old, so it's not likely to need grease or
>have broken parts in the wheels. The key thing is that with the mower on
>its side, I couldn't turn either wheel backwards. All I could do is turn
>the forward (and hear the ratcheting as I did so). Since both wheels
>were affected equally, the problem had to be in the transmission.

Your above description is how a properly working mower works.

Both wheels have ratchets so you would expect them to behave equally
as you stated above. The transmission shaft ONLY goes forward or
stops. It never was designed to go backward in order for you to pull
the mower backwards. Going backwards can only be accomplished by you.
You must pull the mower backwards and then the two ratchets in the
wheels ALLOW you to do this. NOT the transmission shaft.

[Boyd Dunn]

replying to Rebel1, Boyd Dunn wrote:

Here is the answer to your problem: When you first got your mower, it
worked great and you loved it, the same as I did. After a year or so, it
no longer rolled backward-rats! What a bumber! I took off the rear
wheels, took everything apart and cleaned it. It was no help. I read
every post there was and nobody had a really good answer except for one
person and he indicated that the clutch was not disengaging all the way
and when that happened, the transmission locked and of course you could
not roll backward. I ask myself why the clutch would not disengage all
the way, so I begin to look at the cable itself and oiled everything that
had anything to do with it. Still no help, it would not roll backward. I
decided it had to be something to do with the gearbox itself. The cable
attaches to a bracket below and that bracket has a large spring that
encircles a stub shaft. Between the leafs of the spring, I noted it was
packed with grass residue. I got me a pick and scratched it out, all of
it. When I did the rear wheels immediately began to turn-forward and
backward.

I hope this helps you also.


--

[Robert Green]

"Boyd Dunn" <caedfaa9ed1216d60e...@example.com> wrote

<stuff snipped>

> I begin to look at the cable itself and oiled everything that
> had anything to do with it. Still no help, it would not roll backward. I
> decided it had to be something to do with the gearbox itself. The cable
> attaches to a bracket below and that bracket has a large spring that
> encircles a stub shaft. Between the leafs of the spring, I noted it was
> packed with grass residue. I got me a pick and scratched it out, all of
> it. When I did the rear wheels immediately began to turn-forward and
> backward.

Nice detective work. Should Honda be made aware of the issue? Is it
something that can be fixed with a shroud? After reading about how the axle
sheared off in the Seattle Duck Boat accident I began to wonder how well
industry deals with problems that show up well after production. It seems
the answer, in many cases, is "not very well."

--
Bobby G.

[hrho...@att.net]

Didn't anyone remember this post from 2011, look at the date of the original posting!!!!!!!!!

[ItsJoanNotJoann]

On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 10:32:11 PM UTC-5, hrho...@att.net wrote:
>
> Didn't anyone remember this post from 2011, look at the date of the original posting!!!!!!!!!
>
>

Ain't it the truth! And let's hope ol' Rebel has replaced that
lawn mower since he first wrote about it.

[micky]

In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 29 Sep 2015 21:31:23 -0400, "Robert Green"

<robert_g...@yah00.com> wrote:

>"Boyd Dunn" <caedfaa9ed1216d60e...@example.com> wrote
>
><stuff snipped>
>
>> I begin to look at the cable itself and oiled everything that
>> had anything to do with it. Still no help, it would not roll backward. I
>> decided it had to be something to do with the gearbox itself. The cable
>> attaches to a bracket below and that bracket has a large spring that
>> encircles a stub shaft. Between the leafs of the spring, I noted it was
>> packed with grass residue. I got me a pick and scratched it out, all of
>> it. When I did the rear wheels immediately began to turn-forward and
>> backward.
>
>Nice detective work. Should Honda be made aware of the issue? Is it
>something that can be fixed with a shroud?

You want to bury the mower?

[Robert Green]

"micky" <NONONO...@bigfoot.com> wrote in message

> > >Between the leafs of the spring, I noted it was
> >> packed with grass residue. I got me a pick and scratched it out, all
of
> >> it. When I did the rear wheels immediately began to turn-forward and
> >> backward.
> >
> >Nice detective work. Should Honda be made aware of the issue? Is it
> >something that can be fixed with a shroud?
>
> You want to bury the mower?

Arf, arf. Whatever happened to the car with the flat that you filled?
Inquiring minds want to know

--
Bobby G.

[roger leahey]

replying to Rebel1, roger leahey wrote:
I fixed this problem, even though my fix appears to be different from the
other answers. The fix is simple lubrication of the wheels and associated
axel.
​
​ My mower is a one year old Honda HRR1216VKA. Wheels locking up when
pulling the mower backwards appear to be a common problem, yet it is not
listed in the troubleshooting guide.
​
It’s a good idea to follow the recommendation that says after mowing, turn
off the gas line and let the engine run until the gas in the line runs out.
You are going to be turning the mower over on both its sides and I think this
may minimize gas flooding into the engine.
​
Hose out the underside of the mower deck, as usual after mowing. Also hose
out the space between the wheels and the deck to remove sand/grass/dust/dirt.
Of course, be careful not to get water into the carburetor, or to get the air
filter wet, but I’ve never had a problem with this. Before going to the next
step, I let my mower dry overnight.
​
Next, remove the air filter to prevent it from possibly getting wet with oil
when you turn the mower over on its side with the gas cap near the ground.
Lubricate the all moving parts associated with the wheels and the wheel axel.
Lubricate where the axel shaft goes into the wheel and where the axel shaft
goes into the metal box that covers the drive belt. I use “Zoom Spout”
oil, and with the mower in its normal position, I use the spout to try and oil
where the axil rod enters the inside of the wheel. Turn the mower over on both
sides and apply the oil to the axel and wheels. This should free up the
wheels.
​
​Next, do the simple procedure to adjust the drive cable. For my mower, you
simply move the palm paddles to the lowest position and then tighten the cable
nut one rotation at a time until you feel resistance; then you loosen the
cable by eight turns. Now your cable is correctly adjusted. See your mowers
instructions.
​
Do you have a Honda with the two blade mulching system? This method is
obsolete. I threw my two blades in the trash and bought a single blade of the
new “alligator” type. The blade is tempered steel, mulches way better and
keeps its edge longer. My blade is a Oregon Gator Mulcher 3-N-1 Blade For
21-Inch Honda Lawn Mowers 90-651


--
posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/can-t-pull-honda-hrr216vka-lawn-mower-backwards-anymore-665913-.htm

[roger leahey]

replying to Rebel1, roger leahey wrote:

Now that I have encountered and dealt with this problem, I know that the issue
is solved easily by simple routine maintenance. I am still baffled as to why
this issue is not covered in the troubleshooting guide. I have provided
detailed simple instructions in a previous post.

[trader_4]

On Friday, April 8, 2016 at 12:44:05 PM UTC-4, roger leahey wrote:

>
> Do you have a Honda with the two blade mulching system? This method is
> obsolete. I threw my two blades in the trash and bought a single blade of the
> new "alligator" type. The blade is tempered steel, mulches way better and
> keeps its edge longer. My blade is a Oregon Gator Mulcher 3-N-1 Blade For
> 21-Inch Honda Lawn Mowers 90-651
>
>

IDK about an Oregon Gater Mulcher, but I had a Honda with their two blade
system and it did the best mulching job, way better than any mower I've
ever owned. It cut the grass into much smaller, finer particles that
mostly disappeared. I just looked at the reviews on Amazon and they are
mixed.

[roger leahey]

replying to trader_4, roger leahey wrote:
Before I threw my "two blade" system into the trash, I mowed two strips with
them and then mowed two strips with the new hardened steel Oregon Gator
muncher, side by side. The Oregon did way better. But there are variables we
don't know about, such as type of grass you have, mower wheel settings, and
you don't say whether or not you used an alligator blade or not to compare the
two blade system to. . Anyway, Honda did away with the two blade system and
replaced their two blades with the newer single alligator type blade. And
mowing is enough of a chore. I don't want to have to sharpen two blades. If
their two blade system was so great, I don't think they would have done away
with them. If someone does decide to switch to the alligator blade, be aware
that I had a heck of a time sharpening it because the steel is so hard. You
can't just walk into Lowe's and buy a file. You have to order a special
"chipbreaker" hand file. I bought a 14 inch "Nicholson Flat Hand File,
American Pattern, Chip Breaking, Rectangular." That solved the problem. Do not
use a grinding wheel on blades - it ruins the steel temper. And I reiterate
that as for the locked wheels problem, I have used my fast and easy method
more than once, and it has worked every time.

[roger leahey]

[phill...@gmail.com]

On Monday, October 10, 2011 at 9:30:04 AM UTC-10, aemeijers wrote:

> On 10/10/2011 2:50 PM, Rebel1 wrote:
> > It's a walk-behind with a variable speed transmission that powers the
> > rear wheels. Works okay forward, but can no longer pull it backwards. If
> > I turn it on its side, I can turn both rear wheels in the forward
> > direction only, and I hear a ratcheting sound from each wheel. Try the
> > reverse direction, and they lock firmly, without even the slightest
> > movement in the reverse direction of the drive axle.
> >
> > Thanks for you suggestions.
> >
> > R1
>

> No suggestions, but this is a good example of why I'll never buy a
> self-propelled mower (unless it is a tractor, of course.) I suppose for
> some people with large flat unobstructed lots, they make sense, but I
> have to do so much backing and pulling to get around all the
> obstructions in my yard, the self-propelled would just get in the way.
>
> --
> aem sends....

Sorry, but this reply isn't helpful in any way.

[Paint...@unlisted.moo]

I would not buy a self propelled mower either, and for the same reasons
mentioned. Plus they are a lot heavier. And when I mow and push
manually, I can control the speed the mower moves, depending on how
thick the grass is, and if I'm trying to chop up a large burdock or
other weed. I may be cutting a part of lawn thats only 4in tall and then
run into a section that's 15in tall.

As far as the OP's problem. I'd check to make sure the lever that shifts
the self prop. is moving the lever properly. It could be as simple as a
cable needing adjustment, or might be stripped gears that require a
complete rebuild. If nothing else, take off the cable and shift that
lever by hand, being sure to push or pull it as far as it goes. If that
dont do it, you may have to take it to a mower shop, unless you're handy
enough ti rip apart the "transmission" that shifts the wheels. (I call
it a "transmission" for lack of an actual name for that part)!

[Stormin Mormon]

On 5/17/2016 2:18 AM, Paint...@unlisted.moo wrote:
> On Mon, 16 May 2016 22:43:02 -0700 (PDT), phill...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> On Monday, October 10, 2011 at 9:30:04 AM UTC-10, aemeijers wrote:
>>> On 10/10/2011 2:50 PM, Rebel1 wrote:
>
> As far as the OP's problem.
>
>

The OP wrote in 2011, five years ago. Do you think the
OP 1) has the same mower, and 2) is reading this group
eagerly for ideas how to fix the five plus year old
lawn mower? I think we've been had by another
Google Groper.

--
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.

[HerHusband]

> I would not buy a self propelled mower either, and for the same
> reasons mentioned. Plus they are a lot heavier. And when I mow and
> push manually, I can control the speed the mower moves, depending on
> how thick the grass is, and if I'm trying to chop up a large burdock
> or other weed. I may be cutting a part of lawn thats only 4in tall and
> then run into a section that's 15in tall.

A standard push mower might be OK for a small flat yard, but when you've
got close to an acre of hilly yard a self-propelled mower is a necessity.
The alternative is a riding mower which: a) Takes too much storage space.
b) Is harder to work between plants and in narrow areas. c) You don't get
the exercise of walking behind the mower.

(Side note: Using a pedometer and a GPS tracker, I discovered I walk a
bit over a mile each week mowing our yard.)

I have had a Honda HR214 self propelled mower for over 27 years. It is a
shaft drive (no belts to stretch, slip, or clog with grass) and has been
very reliable. About the only thing I've done to it is replace the
control cables a couple of times, the pull cord assembly, and I've put a
couple of grass bags on it. I also put a new rear wheel on it last week
since the tire was cracked. It still starts on the first pull and runs
great.

Mine has two forward speeds, slow for working in tight areas, and fast
for the open areas of the yard. I can always push it faster if I want to
(going downhill for instance), or disengage the self-propel and manually
push it at any speed I want to.

>>> Works okay forward, but can no longer pull it backwards. If I turn it
>>> on its side, I can turn both rear wheels in the forward direction
>>> only, and I hear a ratcheting sound from each wheel. Try the reverse
>>> direction, and they lock firmly, without even the slightest movement
>>> in the reverse direction of the drive axle.

If you can't pull the mower backward easily, remove the rear wheels and
clean out the ratcheting mechanism. Don't lose any parts. :) Lubricate it
well before putting it back together. Unless you have a broken part, it
should work fine after that.

>> I have to do so much backing and pulling to get around all the
>> obstructions in my yard, the self-propelled would just get in the way.

I can pull my self propelled Honda backwards just as easy as a standard
push mower. Just release the propel level. For that matter. I can release
the lever and push it forward just like a standard mower. There are no
downsides in tight areas, but a huge advantage over long distances or on
hills.

> I'd check to make sure the lever that shifts the self prop. is moving
> the lever properly. It could be as simple as a cable needing adjustment

I rinse off my mower after every use. If I don't return the levers to the
off position (putting the cable back in the sheath) the exposed cable can
corrode and sieze up inside the sheath. I went through a couple of cables
in a short time before I figured out that simple trick.

On the Honda's, the cables control the forward speed and the propel
lever. Backward movement is provided by ratcheting gears behind each rear
wheel. The bolt holding the wheel on can be tricky to remove, but it
comes off easily with an impact wrench.

Anthony Watson
www.watsondiy.com
www.mountainsoftware.com

[Sam E]

On 05/17/2016 06:34 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
> On 5/17/2016 2:18 AM, Paint...@unlisted.moo wrote:
>> On Mon, 16 May 2016 22:43:02 -0700 (PDT), phill...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> On Monday, October 10, 2011 at 9:30:04 AM UTC-10, aemeijers wrote:
>>>> On 10/10/2011 2:50 PM, Rebel1 wrote:
>>
>> As far as the OP's problem.
>>
>>
>
> The OP wrote in 2011, five years ago. Do you think the
> OP 1) has the same mower, and 2) is reading this group
> eagerly for ideas how to fix the five plus year old
> lawn mower?

AND that no one else could possibly have a similar problem, and be
reading this.

[Roger32713]

replying to phillipsdf, Roger32713 wrote:
My Honda self-propelled rear wheels were stuck as stuck could be. However,
this is only a minor problem. Some people are mechanically inclined, others
are not. I cleaned and lubricated the rear wheels and the shaft that drives
them (I don't really know if this was necessary or not), then I followed the
simple procedure for adjusting the drive cable. You may have to adjust two or
three times to get it right, but a 5th grader can do it. My mower now works
like brand new and has not had any problems so far this season (since May 1).
If the wheels do bind again, I may utter a blessing (S***!), but I know it can
be fixed with a simple adjustment.

[Size9Wellies]

replying to aemeijers, Size9Wellies wrote:
> Again, that is why I personally will never have a self-propelled mower. My
yard also requires a lot of backing up, so the self-propelled isn't much use,
but it IS a lot more moving parts to get bollixed up. For me, at least, it

violates the KISS principle. The closer I can get to an anvil, the better.

What a load of sanctimonious pish that does not help in anyway. The answer is
to remove the wheel and clean out the ratcheting key mechanism. It is a weak
point on what is otherwise a fantastic mower.

[dicks...@gmail.com]

On Monday, October 10, 2011 at 2:50:19 PM UTC-4, Rebel1 wrote:
> It's a walk-behind with a variable speed transmission that powers the

> rear wheels. Works okay forward, but can no longer pull it backwards. If

> I turn it on its side, I can turn both rear wheels in the forward
> direction only, and I hear a ratcheting sound from each wheel. Try the
> reverse direction, and they lock firmly, without even the slightest
> movement in the reverse direction of the drive axle.
>

[JTH]

I have a Honda HRR2169VLA. I purchased it in 2012 because of the electric start. I went to use it today and had the same issue as you stated. Ratcheting noise moving forward and locked wheels pulling back. I removed a wheel, the snap ring that retains the gear and the woodruff key / spring that make the ratcheting sound. All seemed good. Next I removed the next snap ring and the spacers that position the gearbox shaft in the frame. They were tight on the shaft. Next the wheel height adjuster mechanism was exposed and I found it frozen to the GB shaft. I pulled that apart, removed corrosion, gunk and lubed it up. After re-assembly it worked like new. I did the same to the other wheel as a preventive maintenance item.

[Roger32713]

replying to JTH, Roger32713 wrote:
This problem is easily fixed by following the simple Drive Cable adjustment
procedure found in the user manual. You do not have to tear the mower apart to
fix this.

[Jimmy]

replying to Sam E, Jimmy wrote:
I have the same problem. work great for the first couple of months the one day
it locked up.

[Michael Clarke]

replying to DerbyDad03, Michael Clarke wrote:
> http://www.lawn-mowers-review.com/honda-hrr216-lawn-mower.html

I have abused the heck out of my HRX217 for 5 years and just started to have
issues

1 wheel would not go backwards and then the left wheel would not propel. Take
off both rear wheels and the gears that drive them. Take out the keys from the
drive shaft grease them up and make sure they are loose, put back together and
problem was solved! p.s. the keys have a spring don't lose it!

This mower has not let me down, but the gears and keys need to be greased
every couple of years, it is a shame that Honda does not make this clear in
the owners manual!!!!

[rabbitinred]

replying to Michael Clarke, rabbitinred wrote:
that's because Honda likes to juice its loyal customers for aftermarket
"ad-ons" that aren't generally necessary it would seem but in the long run if
not purchased a $89. auto rain guard could prevent needed your whole trunk/gas
tank mechanism/cable from falling apart.(I know we are talking about movers
but I am bitter)

[rabbitinred]

replying to HerHusband, rabbitinred wrote:
thank you for the info about the back wheels! it's exactly what I was looking
for! the lawn Gods are smiling down apron you as we /speak?/

[rabbitinred]

replying to G Mulcaster, rabbitinred wrote:
that flap rests on top of the grass catcher, usually

[rabbitinred]

replying to Sam E, rabbitinred wrote:
Von that would never happen! and so far all I've gotten was nothing but
reviews by the men's home shopping network. maybe I should have just stuck
with the "*repair clinic" site, where the responses are actually helpful.

[home ed]

replying to Rebel1, home ed wrote:
I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM REBEL 1. IT USULLY STARTS TO GO BACKWARDS IN 20 TO 30
MINS. WHAT WAS THE FIX ?

[bje...@gmail.com]

Thanks for the info. Your answer sevens to be the most correct reply to the backing up issue with the Honda mowers.

[sandlersh]

replying to aemeijers, sandlersh wrote:
I have the same problem, apparently this is a common issue with these Honda
mowers. Mine is only 4 months old and all of a sudden the back wheels locked
up when I pull it in reverse.

--
for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/can-t-pull-honda-hrr216vka-lawn-mower-backwards-anymore-665913-.htm

[Tom]

replying to Sam E, Tom wrote:
You aren't alone. Mine quit backing the first year I had it. I lost the
purchase receipt so I couldn't get any warranty work done. Took it to a Honda
shop. Cost me $75.00. Worked for about four more mowings and now it won't
back up again. Sad that Honda, a usually good company puts out such an
unreliable piece of equipment.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/can-t-pull-honda-hrr216vka-lawn-mower-backwards-anymore-665913-.htm

[Puggy122]

replying to Rebel1, Puggy122 wrote:
You have to leave off the self-propelled feature to move backwards. I've had
Hondas for years with no problems.

[Brad Youmans]

replying to Rebel1, Brad Youmans wrote:
Basically what i found out (from lawnmower guy) the gears are going out.
Thats if it will not go forward either. So what he told me was its 120 to $175
to replace transmission... or simply take both back wheels off and remove a
gear. Either the 1 on wheel or on deck. So i took a hammer and used claw of
hammer and took 1 out of wheel on both sides.( or take c clip off the 1 on the
side of deck). Now i have a push mower that moves freely with no self
propelled. But for money and my yard isnt that big it works.

[Bill]

Brad Youmans wrote:
> replying to Rebel1, Brad Youmans wrote:
> Basically what i found out (from lawnmower guy) the gears are going out.
> Thats if it will not go forward either. So what he told me was its 120
> to $175
> to replace transmission...

I think the part is $110 or so on ebay, so (based upon my experience
replacing the transmission in my Troy-Bilt mower) I think he offered you
very good price. Having removed the "weakest link", you may now have a
mower that will last you "years and years". I am thinking about buying
a Honda like yours next. Good luck!

Bill

[Brad Cole]

replying to Rebel1, Brad Cole wrote:
E Z Ratchet sound = good. This question is out there a lot... Fix is easy
and simple... First understand how you would push a car.. in gear? or in
neutral? Lawn mower is the same.. Got to find neutral to back it up... The
"drive" bar is hooked to a cable with an adjuster near it.... Set the mower on
a hard surface with your butt on a seat.... Try to roll the mower back and it
wont... So loosen the adjuster and free the adjuster.. let it hang .... Move
the cable in it and out.. ( back and fifth ).... (or fourth...Ha ).
When you can freely move he mower back and forward, you have found the neutral
position. Remount the cable adjuster without pulling or pushing the cable in
it. ( long threads and nuts on the adjuster are there for that purpose ) done
and finished..!! EZ....
Brad.... Applications Engineer ....

[Brad Cole]

replying to Tom, Brad Cole wrote:
see my earlier reply only a simple adjustment is needed... things wear / move
/ thats why the adjusters are there...

[Postal worker]

replying to roger leahey, Postal worker wrote:
Yes i know this is an old post.
I agree that the axle not moving is a common issue, i do not use ZoomSpout on
anything that close to the ground.
I go to my Firearms storage area and pick up an aerosol can of Birchwood Casey
Moly Lube Dry Film Lubricant. This is sprayed on the rear drive where the axle
enters a bearing at the deck housing on both sides of the deck. This does not
attract dirt to act as sandpaper and cause more future problems. This is a
similar product ( dri slide) to what was used in the Vietnam conflict in
American rifles.

[Claude]

I found the belt is also a cause of the mower non-reversing. Always use OE Honda belts as aftermarket belts aren't manufactured to work with the Honda slip clutch transmission. After adjusting the transmission
cable, turn the mower over and without the transmission lever engaged, turn a rear wheel in reverse and confirm the transmission pulley spins freely under the loose belt. If the belt prevents the pulley from turning, it will lock up in forward gear and not reverse. Honda OE belts allow the slip clutch function to work.