Re: B&D lawnmower. How to remove blade from electric lawnmower?
Jon Danniken
> Black & Decker lawnmower. How to remove blade from electric
> lawnmower? Model MM525 which is very much like the MM575.
>
> Is there a simple, or complicated, way to keep the motor shaft from
> turning, when trying to loosen the nut on the end of the shaft?
Yes, with an Impact wrench; you'll have that nut in your hand faster than
you can say, "wow, that's pretty cool".
Jon
mm
lawnmower? Model MM525 which is very much like the MM575.
Is there a simple, or complicated, way to keep the motor shaft from
turning, when trying to loosen the nut on the end of the shaft?
I have to remove the blade to replace the fan and the manual says to
use a 2x4 to keep the blade from turning. I do keep the blade from
turning, but the nut and shaft turn together anyhow, so there is no
unscrewing.
I figured if I broke the plastic fan off, I might have enough room for
vise-grips. Do you think they could nick, whatever, the shaft enough
to unbalance it?
(FTI, a third of the plastic fan was broken off so I tried to knock
off the rest with a hammer. It cracked easily and fell off in
suceessive pieces. Unfortunatately, that was stupid because I also
cracked the blade spacer, a cast metal piece, that now I have to
replace. :( 3 dollars and a trip to the store, 10 miles away.
Fortunately I have to drive by there next week anyhow.)
Thanks a lot.
mm
Thanks for replying.
Do you mean the impact wrench one hits with a hammer**, or the kind
that usually uses compressed air, but comes in electric also?
**I have a manual impact wrench and I did think of it, but I figure it
might put too much longitudinal force on the bearings, and I wasn't
sure there was enough mass in the shaft and armature for it to work
anyhow.
>
>Jon
>
Big Bob
instead of loosening
"mm" <NOPSAM...@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
news:6edc45tmcrv2td00q...@4ax.com...
Jon Danniken
Aye, sorry, not the manual one (I have one of those too). You can get the
pneumatic kind that requires a compressor, which are the most common, but
they also sell electric ones.
If you don't have a compressor, I have heard that the electric ones from
harbor freight do an acceptable job.
Jon
Rudy
>> lawnmower? Model MM525 which is very much like the MM575.
>>
>> Is there a simple, or complicated, way to keep the motor shaft from
>> turning, when trying to loosen the nut on the end of the shaft?
Wedge a piece of 2 by 4 or such against the blade/deck housing so it can't
turn.
Undo the nut with a socket wrench
William Munny
When all else fails, RTFM or call the mfg.
tim birr
wrote:
Not sure of the problem. I have a similiar model....or used to ...the
CM1000...you used the wood to jam the blade and you just "unscrewed
it." It was pretty simple. If you are having problems, there may be
more wrong than something simple, because it is really pretty simple.
Wear gloves though when doing this.
mm
<jondanS...@yaSPAMhoo.com> wrote:
Thahks again.
Yeah, I see they have a 12 volt Harbor Freight model for 25 dollars.
It says it has 150 foot pounds with a good battery, and 30 to 40 blows
per minute (BPM).
Then there is for 50 dollars an AC model withe 240 ft.pds and 2400
BPM.
And for 40 dollars an 18 volt battery model, 3/8", 87 foot pound, 1700
BPM
Rudy, Tim, I can't just use a socket wrench because even when I hold
the blade still, the nut and the shaft turn.
Thanks Bob and William, the manual said nothing about being
left-handed, and based on the direction the blade turns, I don't think
it is.
>Jon
>
Don Young
should enable you to use them as a primitive impact wrench. The type impact
driver you strike on the end with a hammer would also likely work with a
little patience and skill. Of course, a power impact wrench would be the
best.
Don Young
dpb
...
> Rudy, Tim, I can't just use a socket wrench because even when I hold
> the blade still, the nut and the shaft turn.
>
> Thanks Bob and William, the manual said nothing about being
> left-handed, and based on the direction the blade turns, I don't think
> it is.
The possibility is that sometime you hit something and that impact
stretched the bolt (or shaft if it really is a nut on a shaft; that
would be unusual for anything but electric but I've not had an electric
so perhaps they do).
If that is so, the impact wrench is probably about the only hope. If
that is the cause for it being so tight, you're looking at a replacement
shaft/bolt/whichever.
Had it happen on one of the blades on the 6-ft belly mower; took a 3/8"
pry bar through the upper drive pulley as a backup and that bar simply
bent rather than the bolt coming out.
--
sligoNo...@hotmail.com
just sharpened the blade for the first time a few days ago. A gloved
hand held the blade while a box wrench turned the bolt holding it on.
It was threaded normally and did not require an unusual amount of
force.
Stormin Mormon
bolt that's not responding to steady pressure.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"dpb" <no...@non.net> wrote in message
news:h27rec$rdr$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
dpb
> Impact wrench is your friend. Often you can rattle loose a
> bolt that's not responding to steady pressure.
What, precisely, about
"If that is so, the impact wrench is probably about the only hope."
did you fail to comprehend???? :(
--
tn...@mucks.net
wrote:
>Black & Decker lawnmower. How to remove blade from electric
>lawnmower? Model MM525 which is very much like the MM575.
>
>Is there a simple, or complicated, way to keep the motor shaft from
>turning, when trying to loosen the nut on the end of the shaft?
>
>
>I have to remove the blade to replace the fan and the manual says to
>use a 2x4 to keep the blade from turning. I do keep the blade from
>turning, but the nut and shaft turn together anyhow, so there is no
>unscrewing.
>
If stopping the blade doesn't stop the shaft then what drives the
blade?
Something is wrong. Somehow the blade is slotted, flat sided,
or some other means of coupling is suppose to take place. Push
the blade down onto the shaft while turning the nut.
Stormin Mormon
scsrouieorjenrble of letters?
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"dpb" <no...@non.net> wrote in message
news:h2aqpo$bsa$2...@news.eternal-september.org...
mm
>On Sat, 27 Jun 2009 11:21:30 -0400, mm <NOPSAM...@bigfoot.com>
>wrote:
>
>>Black & Decker lawnmower. How to remove blade from electric
>>lawnmower? Model MM525 which is very much like the MM575.
>>
>>Is there a simple, or complicated, way to keep the motor shaft from
>>turning, when trying to loosen the nut on the end of the shaft?
>>
>>
>>I have to remove the blade to replace the fan and the manual says to
>>use a 2x4 to keep the blade from turning. I do keep the blade from
>>turning, but the nut and shaft turn together anyhow, so there is no
>>unscrewing.
>>
>If stopping the blade doesn't stop the shaft then what drives the
>blade?
The blade is on tight enough that the motor will spin it, and it cuts
well. But it's not on tight enough to hold the shaft in place when
trying to unscrew the nut on the end.
>
> Something is wrong. Somehow the blade is slotted, flat sided,
There was a picture which was about balancing the blade after it is
sharpened, and it showed the center hole as round.
I broke a part on Friday, and just got it today, Monday. I'll probably
work on it tomorrow and I plan to let you all know tomorrow night, if
the thread hasnt' gone up into the wild blue yonder.
>or some other means of coupling is suppose to take place. Push
>the blade down onto the shaft while turning the nut.
I
tn...@mucks.net
>>If stopping the blade doesn't stop the shaft then what drives the
>>blade?
>
>The blade is on tight enough that the motor will spin it, and it cuts
>well. But it's not on tight enough to hold the shaft in place when
>trying to unscrew the nut on the end.
>>
>> Something is wrong. Somehow the blade is slotted, flat sided,
>
>There was a picture which was about balancing the blade after it is
>sharpened, and it showed the center hole as round.
>
on the motor shaft by letting the blade spin.
tn...@mucks.net
>I broke a part on Friday, and just got it today, Monday. I'll probably
>work on it tomorrow and I plan to let you all know tomorrow night, if
>the thread hasnt' gone up into the wild blue yonder.
>
>>or some other means of coupling is suppose to take place. Push
>>the blade down onto the shaft while turning the nut.
>
shaft. At the very least attempt to hold the armature on the flats.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
On many (at least some) cheap electric mowers the blade is sandwiched
between 2 big washers. The washers have "D" holes but the hole in the
blade is round - makes a "slip clutch" to protect the motor shaft.
Usually not worth replacing a blade on them either.
Some motors have an "allen" end in the shaft - you hold the shaft with
an allen wrench and turn the nut - never seen it on a mower, but it's
possible.
Also, are you sure it's not a left hand thread???
tn...@mucks.net
>On Mon, 29 Jun 2009 12:45:29 -0400, tn...@mucks.net wrote:
>
>>On Sat, 27 Jun 2009 11:21:30 -0400, mm <NOPSAM...@bigfoot.com>
>>wrote:
>>
>>>Black & Decker lawnmower. How to remove blade from electric
>>>lawnmower? Model MM525 which is very much like the MM575.
>On many (at least some) cheap electric mowers the blade is sandwiched
>between 2 big washers. The washers have "D" holes but the hole in the
>blade is round - makes a "slip clutch" to protect the motor shaft.
I take it the flat part of the "D's" mate with the flat on the shaft.
If this is so then this set up would more accurately be described
as a cheap design.
>Usually not worth replacing a blade on them either.
>
>Some motors have an "allen" end in the shaft - you hold the shaft with
>an allen wrench and turn the nut - never seen it on a mower, but it's
>possible.
The motor shaft on the MM525 has at least one flat machined into the
motor shaft that a wrench can secure.
>Also, are you sure it's not a left hand thread???
The picture of the armature does appear to have left hand threads.
mm
>On Tue, 30 Jun 2009 22:32:13 -0400, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
>
>>On Mon, 29 Jun 2009 12:45:29 -0400, tn...@mucks.net wrote:
>>
>>>On Sat, 27 Jun 2009 11:21:30 -0400, mm <NOPSAM...@bigfoot.com>
>>>wrote:
>>>
>>>>Black & Decker lawnmower. How to remove blade from electric
>>>>lawnmower? Model MM525 which is very much like the MM575.
Thanks for all the help.
Well, I got it off by putting a little liquid wrench type stuff on it,
putting on a 3/4" end wrench and hitting the wrench with a hammer 10
to 20 times. The shaft just turned with the wrench, but it must have
done something, because the last time I hit it, the wrench turned more
than the shaft. After that the whole job was quick and easy.
>>On many (at least some) cheap electric mowers the blade is sandwiched
>>between 2 big washers. The washers have "D" holes but the hole in the
>>blade is round - makes a "slip clutch" to protect the motor shaft.
I was trying to write a post last night to explain this, but I got
stymied and didn't finish it. You do a pretty good job and I may not
bother to finish it. (Although in this case one piece of bread of
the sandwich is the fan, and only one washer, the one at the end has a
D hole (in this case, with flats on two opposite sides) and it has two
slip clutches, between the metal washer I desribe and a plastic washer
of the same size, and between the plastic washer and the blade.
The washers are square and the plastic one has ridges on each side,
two pointing to the blade and two pointing towards the drive washer,
the one with the double-D hole.
The ridges break off when something hard is hit. But the mower still
worked fine. The problme in my case was that the fan also broke,
maybe in the same incident, and the whole thingg was no longer
balanced. I figured the bearings wouldn't last as long with the
imbalance, and it might be more tiring to use the mower, and the fan
wasn't as effective with 3 out of 8 blades missing. (Indded on the
fan is embossed, Don't run mower without fan, so maybe it helps in
cooling. There were some ventilation holes just above it come to
think of it.
>I take it the flat part of the "D's" mate with the flat on the shaft.
>If this is so then this set up would more accurately be described
>as a cheap design.
What would be better? How much better and how much would it add to
the price of the mower, and the weight?
All the B&Decker use the style I have and the Sears look like they're
made by B&D and I haven't seen electric mowers from any other company.
>>Usually not worth replacing a blade on them either.
Well, a blade acan be sharpened and even if a chunk of blade is
missing, the other end can be ground to balance the blade, But if the
blade is ruined, it sure seems worth replacing the blade to me. A
blade costs xxxx and a mower like mine** costs about 220 dollars plus
tax.
**(the newer model which is the same except for the height adjustment)
>>
>>Some motors have an "allen" end in the shaft - you hold the shaft with
>>an allen wrench and turn the nut - never seen it on a mower, but it's
>>possible.
>
>The motor shaft on the MM525 has at least one flat machined into the
>motor shaft that a wrench can secure.
>
>>Also, are you sure it's not a left hand thread???
>
>The picture of the armature does appear to have left hand threads.
I asked about getting the blade off when I was buying the part, and
the counter girl asked the guy in the back and sh said nothing about
that. And the manual, which is online, would also have mentioned it.
And it is right-handed.
mm
>mm wrote:
>...
>> Rudy, Tim, I can't just use a socket wrench because even when I hold
>> the blade still, the nut and the shaft turn.
>>
>> Thanks Bob and William, the manual said nothing about being
>> left-handed, and based on the direction the blade turns, I don't think
>> it is.
>...
>
>The possibility is that sometime you hit something and that impact
>stretched the bolt (or shaft if it really is a nut on a shaft; that
>would be unusual for anything but electric but I've not had an electric
>so perhaps they do).
>
>If that is so, the impact wrench is probably about the only hope. If
>that is the cause for it being so tight, you're looking at a replacement
>shaft/bolt/whichever.
It would be the whole motor armature. :) BTW, that ebay armature
used to show the threads was only a dollar this morning, and sold for
6.50 plus 12.25 shipping. A good price I'm sure, but I can buy a new
one if I ever need it.
>Had it happen on one of the blades on the 6-ft belly mower; took a 3/8"
>pry bar through the upper drive pulley as a backup and that bar simply
>bent rather than the bolt coming out.
Thanks to all.
NoS...@aol.com
shoot opening in the deck. Then it is easy - I've done it.
mm
>According to the manual wedge a piece of 2x4 by placing one end in the
>shoot opening in the deck. Then it is easy - I've done it.
I already tried that. It didn't work. You may have done it but not
all mowers are the same.
You came in late and didn't read the whole thread.
Hector
Thanks! This trick saved my day. Hitting the wrench with the hammer while
holding the blade in place with a 2x4 worked right away!
--
posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/b-d-lawnmower-how-to-remove-blade-from-electric-lawnmower-380945-.htm
using HomeOwnersHub's Web, Mobile and Social Media Interface to
alt.home.repair and other home improvement groups
tommar...@gmail.com
On Saturday, June 27, 2009 at 11:46:40 AM UTC-4, Jon Danniken wrote:
Budd
Thanks tommarshalek! That was the right solution for me.
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/b-d-lawnmower-how-to-remove-blade-from-electric-lawnmower-380945-.htm
Pete
My solution is take that POS to the junk yard . Besides this design flaw B&D
wants to charge $120 for a replacement battery. No wonder people don't want to
buy American..
Ralph Mowery
caedfaa9ed1216d60ef...@example.com says...
> replying to Big Bob, Pete wrote:
> My solution is take that POS to the junk yard . Besides this design flaw B&D
> wants to charge $120 for a replacement battery. No wonder people don't want to
> buy American..
>
>
>
can often get a new item for nearly what a replacement battery costs.
Most of the cell phones and laptops have gone to batteries that most
people can not replace now.
bill
"Ralph Mowery" <rmower...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:MPG.3742af30...@news.east.earthlink.net...
> caedfaa9ed1216d60ef...@example.com says...
>>
>> replying to Big Bob, Pete wrote:
>> My solution is take that POS to the junk yard . Besides this design flaw
>> B&D
>> wants to charge $120 for a replacement battery. No wonder people don't
>> want to
>> buy American..
>>
>>
>>
>
> Seems that anything with a rechargabel battery is best tossed out. You
> can often get a new item for nearly what a replacement battery costs.
and laptops and even with iphones with no user replaceable
battery even if you pay Apple to replace the battery.
> Most of the cell phones and laptops have gone to
> batteries that most people can not replace now.
and even with cellphones which the user cannot easily replace
themselves, its still worth paying Apple to replace it.
Not necessarily so true with the low end androids.
And most torches still have user changeable rechargeable batteries.
Plenty of cordless tools have spare battery packs that cost a lot
less than a whole new tool too.
Peeler
trolling senile geezer Rot Speed, wrote:
<FLUSH the nym-shifting, 85-year-old, trolling asshole's latest trollshit>
...and much better air in here!
--
Bod addressing abnormal senile quarreller Rot:
"Do you practice arguing with yourself in an empty room?"
MID: <g4ihla...@mid.individual.net>
Clare Snyder
tool and battery - sometimes even a spare battery - on sale for less
than you can buy a single battery -and the batteries are seldom "on
sale"
Clare Snyder
wrote:
>On Mon, 13 May 2019 15:24:41 +1000, "bill" <jk...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>"Ralph Mowery" <rmower...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
>>news:MPG.3742af30...@news.east.earthlink.net...
>>> In article <gF2CE.1395458$%SF.8...@fx15.am4>,
>>> caedfaa9ed1216d60ef...@example.com says...
>>>>
>>>> replying to Big Bob, Pete wrote:
>>>> My solution is take that POS to the junk yard . Besides this design flaw
>>>> B&D
>>>> wants to charge $120 for a replacement battery. No wonder people don't
>>>> want to
>>>> buy American..
pretty much junk - but the battery is available from third party
suppliers for significantly less. I've replaced several of them over
the years for friends.
Sky
--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/b-d-lawnmower-how-to-remove-blade-from-electric-lawnmower-380945-.htm
trader_4
the shaft can't move without the blade moving. Otherwise you're going to have problems
trying to remove the bolt that holds the blade. As someone first suggested, an impact
wrench would likely work. What does the manual say about how to remove the blade
for sharpening, etc?
Clare Snyder
<13a8dae94c285631...@example.com> wrote:
>I am having the same problem. I hold the blade and the shaft just turns with the nut so the nut doesn’t come off
impact gun will pay for itself pretty quickly.
Unknown
the shaft above/behind the blade. You hold that with a ViseGrips, and
block the blade with a 2x4. Some WD-40 might help also.
trader_4
shaft from rotating. I bet it's in the manual too. I'd use a wrench that fits
instead of VG though, to avoid rounding it off or slipping.
Clare Snyder
drive is "friction" or "clutch" material on 2 washers clamping the
blade between a fixed plate and a nut. Torque just makes the blade
turn on the shaft where an impact gun uses the inertia of the blade
and shaft to advantage and spins the nut off "like buttah"
Many don't have a "flat" and the vice grips just chews the shaft and
urinating on it does as much good as WD40 (unless you are talking one
of their "specialist" products ) - you need a REAL penetrating oil to
do any good. Heat can olaso help if there are no plastic parts
involved (and some cheap mowers like B&D) use PLASTIC bushings instead
of bearings - - -
micky
>On Sunday, March 20, 2022 at 4:45:08 PM UTC-4, Sky wrote:
>> I am having the same problem. I hold the blade and the shaft just turns with the nut so the nut doesn’t come off
>>
>> --
>> For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/b-d-lawnmower-how-to-remove-blade-from-electric-lawnmower-380945-.htm
>
>Very strange. You would think the mower would have a blade and shaft design so that
>the shaft can't move without the blade moving.
the blade, because that's better than damaging the shaft or the motor.
> Otherwise you're going to have problems
>trying to remove the bolt that holds the blade.
Clare Snyder
wrote:
years.VERY FEW have refused and required the "blue point wrench" - and
I've done quite a lot of them over the decades
Bob F
hammer or other metal object might work. And then, there's the question
of is it a left hand thread?