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"Quick Release" plywood panel
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dbon...@gmail.com
Oct 23, 2012, 10:52:22 AM10/23/12
to
I have a vertical piece of plywood (about 1/3 sheet) bolted onto a wood frame structure. There is storage behind the panel, but to access it I need to remove all of the bolts before removing the panel. Slow!
Anyone have ideas on a faster method that would hold the panel securely in place? Hinges won't work because of clearance issues.
One idea (not a good one) is to use U-bolts attached to the structure, with the loop of the bolt passing through slots in the plywood. Then a wedge could be inserted between the protruding loop and plywood surface to hold everything in place. Simply knock the wedges out to pull the panel down. Aesthetically not the nicest...I'd rather stick with the existing bolts.
I'm hoping there are some specialty hardware products that might do a better job. Any ideas?
Anyone have ideas on a faster method that would hold the panel securely in place? Hinges won't work because of clearance issues.
One idea (not a good one) is to use U-bolts attached to the structure, with the loop of the bolt passing through slots in the plywood. Then a wedge could be inserted between the protruding loop and plywood surface to hold everything in place. Simply knock the wedges out to pull the panel down. Aesthetically not the nicest...I'd rather stick with the existing bolts.
I'm hoping there are some specialty hardware products that might do a better job. Any ideas?
Message has been deleted
George
Oct 23, 2012, 11:31:56 AM10/23/12
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described.
Harry K
Oct 23, 2012, 11:31:14 AM10/23/12
to
Harry K
John Grabowski
Oct 23, 2012, 11:47:19 AM10/23/12
to
dbon...@gmail.com
Oct 23, 2012, 11:54:45 AM10/23/12
to
On Tuesday, October 23, 2012 1:01:14 PM UTC-2:30, Harry K wrote:
> On Tuesday, October 23, 2012 7:52:23 AM UTC-7, dbon...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> "Z" or "C" channel on one edge and bottom to set panel in and a screw to secure the opposite edge? There are other fasteners by the dozens for the free edge.
>
Z/C channel might just work. Worst case it will eliminate 50% of the fasteners. All I need to do is find some :)
> On Tuesday, October 23, 2012 7:52:23 AM UTC-7, dbon...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> "Z" or "C" channel on one edge and bottom to set panel in and a screw to secure the opposite edge? There are other fasteners by the dozens for the free edge.
>
Hurricane clips aren't appropriate for the application and a hinge won't get it done because of clearance issues (panel can't swing out far enough without hitting nearby obstacles).
One other item I neglected...the panel must support bodyweight (it's part of a climbing wall). Fortunately the bottom edge of the panel will be fully supported by underlying structure.
Thanks for the suggestions!
DD_BobK
Oct 23, 2012, 11:56:14 AM10/23/12
to
high. I have it secured on the edges to to framing with about 8 or 10
square drive flat head #10 x 2" sheet metal screws.
I only need to remove it to do washing machine / dryer maint or access
some washing machine plumbing...so only about once a year, max.
Depending on the "look" that is acceptable, frequency of access & the
amount of time to build the system...
1) screws into wood or http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=363&site=ROCKLER
2) 1/4 turn captive fasteners & retainers
3) 1/4 turn blade style fastners
4) http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=729&rrt=1
sorry cannot find the exact device I'm looking for...
cheers
Bob
Retired
Oct 23, 2012, 11:56:48 AM10/23/12
to
http://www.wwhardware.com/cabinet-locks-and-catches/cabinet-and-furniture-catches/magnetic-catches/
or http://tinyurl.com/8d4u9c9
Stormin Mormon
Oct 23, 2012, 12:27:50 PM10/23/12
to
Galvanized deck screws. Use electric drill, and
screw driver tip for inserting or removing the
screws.
Since safety is an issue, use a LOT of screws.
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
<dbon...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:7960e48d-971e-498c...@googlegroups.com...
screw driver tip for inserting or removing the
screws.
Since safety is an issue, use a LOT of screws.
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
<dbon...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:7960e48d-971e-498c...@googlegroups.com...
Sjouke Burry
Oct 23, 2012, 12:37:11 PM10/23/12
to
dbon...@gmail.com wrote in
news:32f598a5-ad08-447d...@googlegroups.com:
Magnets. Any hardwarestore has them.
(normally used to keep doors closed).
news:32f598a5-ad08-447d...@googlegroups.com:
(normally used to keep doors closed).
Harry K
Oct 23, 2012, 12:35:01 PM10/23/12
to
On Oct 23, 8:56 am, DD_BobK <rkaza...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Oct 23, 7:52 am, dbonn...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> > I have a vertical piece of plywood (about 1/3 sheet) bolted onto a wood frame structure. There is storage behind the panel, but to access it I need to remove all of the bolts before removing the panel. Slow!
>
> > Anyone have ideas on a faster method that would hold the panel securely in place? Hinges won't work because of clearance issues.
>
> > One idea (not a good one) is to use U-bolts attached to the structure, with the loop of the bolt passing through slots in the plywood. Then a wedge could be inserted between the protruding loop and plywood surface to hold everything in place. Simply knock the wedges out to pull the panel down. Aesthetically not the nicest...I'd rather stick with the existing bolts.
>
> > I'm hoping there are some specialty hardware products that might do a better job. Any ideas?
>
> I have a similar stitatuon.... a plywood panel about 30" wide x 80"
> high. I have it secured on the edges to to framing with about 8 or 10
> square drive flat head #10 x 2" sheet metal screws.
>
> I only need to remove it to do washing machine / dryer maint or access
> some washing machine plumbing...so only about once a year, max.
>
> Depending on the "look" that is acceptable, frequency of access & the
> amount of time to build the system...
>
> 1) screws into wood orhttp://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=363&site=ROCKLER
> On Oct 23, 7:52 am, dbonn...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> > I have a vertical piece of plywood (about 1/3 sheet) bolted onto a wood frame structure. There is storage behind the panel, but to access it I need to remove all of the bolts before removing the panel. Slow!
>
> > Anyone have ideas on a faster method that would hold the panel securely in place? Hinges won't work because of clearance issues.
>
> > One idea (not a good one) is to use U-bolts attached to the structure, with the loop of the bolt passing through slots in the plywood. Then a wedge could be inserted between the protruding loop and plywood surface to hold everything in place. Simply knock the wedges out to pull the panel down. Aesthetically not the nicest...I'd rather stick with the existing bolts.
>
> > I'm hoping there are some specialty hardware products that might do a better job. Any ideas?
>
> I have a similar stitatuon.... a plywood panel about 30" wide x 80"
> high. I have it secured on the edges to to framing with about 8 or 10
> square drive flat head #10 x 2" sheet metal screws.
>
> I only need to remove it to do washing machine / dryer maint or access
> some washing machine plumbing...so only about once a year, max.
>
> Depending on the "look" that is acceptable, frequency of access & the
> amount of time to build the system...
>
> 2) 1/4 turn captive fasteners & retainers
> 3) 1/4 turn blade style fastners
> 4)http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=729&rrt=1
> 3) 1/4 turn blade style fastners
>
> sorry cannot find the exact device I'm looking for...
>
> cheers
> Bob
djuz (?spelling?) faseners? Look good but are a bit visible. I'm
> sorry cannot find the exact device I'm looking for...
>
> cheers
> Bob
thinking of thetype hey used to use (maybe stilldo) to hold hoods on
race cars closed.
Harry K
dadiOH
Oct 23, 2012, 12:39:38 PM10/23/12
to
2. Any sort of ball & socket fastener, frequently used on car trim
3. Various knockdown furmiture fasteners.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net
cl...@snyder.on.ca
Oct 23, 2012, 12:49:06 PM10/23/12
to
Mark Storkamp
Oct 23, 2012, 1:18:53 PM10/23/12
to
In article <32f598a5-ad08-447d...@googlegroups.com>,
Put small wood blocks on the back of the panel, and matching blocks in
the opening just below the ones on the panel. Put a 30 taper on the
bottom of the blocks on the panel and a matching taper on the tops of
the blocks in the opening. The blocks will interlock and gravity will
hold it in place. (Easier to do than explain, I wish I could put up a
picture here)
the opening just below the ones on the panel. Put a 30 taper on the
bottom of the blocks on the panel and a matching taper on the tops of
the blocks in the opening. The blocks will interlock and gravity will
hold it in place. (Easier to do than explain, I wish I could put up a
picture here)
DerbyDad03
Oct 23, 2012, 1:56:31 PM10/23/12
to
Does it have to be plywood? Since it can be removed from the outside,
it doesn't sound like access security is an issue.
What about a simple shade or some curtains?
What about some hooks at the top and slots in the panel? Lift up and
out to remove, slide down and in to rehang. Velcro at the bottom if
you want to "secure" it a little.
What about a home made bi-fold door that only needs half the clearance
to open?
There must be some other requirements that you haven't mentioned that
eliminates the thousands of possible methods of covering a 11 sq ft
hole.
Douglas C. Neidermeyer
Oct 23, 2012, 2:26:35 PM10/23/12
to
On 10/23/12 10:52 AM, dbon...@gmail.com wrote:
"aesthetics" is an issue anyplace a vertical sheet of bolted-on yet
removable plywood is the solution;-) Wifey-pie?
Just sayin'......
--
If Obama is reelected to a second term, he�ll truly be able to talk
about the mess he inherited.
--George W. Bush
Malcom "Mal" Reynolds
Oct 23, 2012, 3:08:11 PM10/23/12
to
DerbyDad03
Oct 23, 2012, 3:38:15 PM10/23/12
to
be sure...
DerbyDad03
Oct 23, 2012, 3:39:40 PM10/23/12
to
On Oct 23, 1:20 pm, Mark Storkamp <mstork...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> In article <32f598a5-ad08-447d...@googlegroups.com>,
> picture here)- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Your suggestion is typically called a "french cleat" as shown here:
http://newtowoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/frenchcleat1.jpg
> In article <32f598a5-ad08-447d...@googlegroups.com>,
>
> - Show quoted text -
Your suggestion is typically called a "french cleat" as shown here:
http://newtowoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/frenchcleat1.jpg
Alexander J. Honnold
Oct 23, 2012, 4:12:57 PM10/23/12
to
On 10/23/2012 12:27 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
> One other item I neglected...the panel must support bodyweight (it's part of
> a climbing wall). Fortunately the bottom edge of the panel will be fully
> supported by underlying structure.
>
Bad idea to have a removable panel on a climbing wall.
> One other item I neglected...the panel must support bodyweight (it's part of
> a climbing wall). Fortunately the bottom edge of the panel will be fully
> supported by underlying structure.
>
Stormin Mormon
Oct 23, 2012, 5:08:27 PM10/23/12
to
That's why I suggested a lot of galv deck screws.
"Alexander J. Honnold" <alexande...@C0MCAST.C0M> wrote in message
news:2vidnQ68mNDPZxvN...@giganews.com...
"Alexander J. Honnold" <alexande...@C0MCAST.C0M> wrote in message
news:2vidnQ68mNDPZxvN...@giganews.com...
Jerrod
Oct 23, 2012, 5:23:08 PM10/23/12
to
too?
Stormin Mormon
Oct 23, 2012, 5:38:04 PM10/23/12
to
This any better?
"Jerrod" <jer...@A0L.C0M> wrote in message
news:50870ac2$0$7719$c3e8da3$f626...@news.astraweb.com...
While you're fixing the attributions, why not
fix your wonderful top posts too?
"Jerrod" <jer...@A0L.C0M> wrote in message
news:50870ac2$0$7719$c3e8da3$f626...@news.astraweb.com...
While you're fixing the attributions, why not
Jerrod
Oct 23, 2012, 5:59:26 PM10/23/12
to
difficult to tell who said what. Is that a bug in Outlook Express?
And your God damn mother-fucking top-posting adds even more confusion to
the thread. ;-)
Stormin Mormon
Oct 23, 2012, 6:10:21 PM10/23/12
to
No, it's an option that I unchecked (unticked,
for UK friends) the box. With only two persons
text, it can't be that hard to follow.
Better, now?
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Jerrod" <jer...@A0L.C0M> wrote in message
news:50871347$0$38012$c3e8da3$9dec...@news.astraweb.com...
Not at all. Your newsreader doesn't indent previous
posts which makes it difficult to tell who said what.
Is that a bug in Outlook Express?
And your God blessed Haleighleujah-handclapping
for UK friends) the box. With only two persons
text, it can't be that hard to follow.
Better, now?
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Jerrod" <jer...@A0L.C0M> wrote in message
Not at all. Your newsreader doesn't indent previous
posts which makes it difficult to tell who said what.
Is that a bug in Outlook Express?
cl...@snyder.on.ca
Oct 23, 2012, 7:22:53 PM10/23/12
to
velcro, magnets, push latches, etc.
WW
Oct 23, 2012, 9:02:24 PM10/23/12
to
wrote in message news:dkcd88h6psv8e7lat...@4ax.com...
On Tue, 23 Oct 2012 07:52:22 -0700 (PDT), dbon...@gmail.com wrote:
>I have a vertical piece of plywood (about 1/3 sheet) bolted onto a wood
>frame structure. There is storage behind the panel, but to access it I
>need to remove all of the bolts before removing the panel. Slow!
>
>Anyone have ideas on a faster method that would hold the panel securely in
>place? Hinges won't work because of clearance issues.
>
>One idea (not a good one) is to use U-bolts attached to the structure, with
>the loop of the bolt passing through slots in the plywood. Then a wedge
>could be inserted between the protruding loop and plywood surface to hold
>everything in place. Simply knock the wedges out to pull the panel down.
>Aesthetically not the nicest...I'd rather stick with the existing bolts.
>
>I'm hoping there are some specialty hardware products that might do a
>better job. Any ideas?
frames work for you.
Hinge it at the top. WW
DerbyDad03
Oct 23, 2012, 10:27:37 PM10/23/12
to
admit that leaving that whole "body weight" thing out of the OP may have
led some us to offer some suggestions that might not apply.
That's why I suspected that there were "other requirements" that we didn't
know about.
Harry K
Oct 23, 2012, 11:56:02 PM10/23/12
to
On Oct 23, 3:10 pm, "Stormin Mormon"
No! And it won't be "better" until you give up your stubborn, moronic
top posting.
Harry K
top posting.
Harry K
Tonya Harding
Oct 24, 2012, 5:22:31 AM10/24/12
to
On 10/23/2012 6:10 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
> And your God blessed Haleighleujah-handclapping
> top-posting adds even more confusion to the thread.;-)
>
Yah, top posting totally destroys the flow of a thread
> And your God blessed Haleighleujah-handclapping
> top-posting adds even more confusion to the thread.;-)
>
Jerrod
Oct 24, 2012, 5:57:53 AM10/24/12
to
On 10/23/2012 6:10 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
> No, it's an option that I unchecked (unticked,
> for UK friends) the box. With only two persons
> text, it can't be that hard to follow.
>
> Better, now?
>
as a rule, uk posters dont top-post so now whats your excuse?
> for UK friends) the box. With only two persons
> text, it can't be that hard to follow.
>
> Better, now?
>
k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz
Oct 24, 2012, 9:32:02 AM10/24/12
to
Bob F
Oct 24, 2012, 11:04:34 AM10/24/12
to
dbon...@gmail.com wrote:
> On Tuesday, October 23, 2012 1:01:14 PM UTC-2:30, Harry K wrote:
>> On Tuesday, October 23, 2012 7:52:23 AM UTC-7, dbon...@gmail.com
>> wrote:
>>
>> "Z" or "C" channel on one edge and bottom to set panel in and a
>> screw to secure the opposite edge? There are other fasteners by the
>> dozens for the free edge.
>>
>
> Z/C channel might just work. Worst case it will eliminate 50% of the
> fasteners. All I need to do is find some :)
>
> Hurricane clips aren't appropriate for the application and a hinge
> won't get it done because of clearance issues (panel can't swing out
> far enough without hitting nearby obstacles).
>
> On Tuesday, October 23, 2012 1:01:14 PM UTC-2:30, Harry K wrote:
>> On Tuesday, October 23, 2012 7:52:23 AM UTC-7, dbon...@gmail.com
>> wrote:
>>
>> "Z" or "C" channel on one edge and bottom to set panel in and a
>> screw to secure the opposite edge? There are other fasteners by the
>> dozens for the free edge.
>>
>
> Z/C channel might just work. Worst case it will eliminate 50% of the
> fasteners. All I need to do is find some :)
>
> Hurricane clips aren't appropriate for the application and a hinge
> won't get it done because of clearance issues (panel can't swing out
> far enough without hitting nearby obstacles).
>
> One other item I neglected...the panel must support bodyweight (it's
> part of a climbing wall). Fortunately the bottom edge of the panel
> will be fully supported by underlying structure.
>
> Thanks for the suggestions!
> part of a climbing wall). Fortunately the bottom edge of the panel
> will be fully supported by underlying structure.
>
Use double ended bolts. Wood thread on one end, and machine screws on the other.
Use wing nuts or hex nuts on the surface, as needed. (closet bolts?)
Bob F
Oct 24, 2012, 11:06:19 AM10/24/12
to
to do things "right".
dadiOH
Oct 24, 2012, 1:31:20 PM10/24/12
to
Bob F wrote:
> Use double ended bolts. Wood thread on one end, and machine screws on
> the other. Use wing nuts or hex nuts on the surface, as needed.
> (closet bolts?)
Hanger bolts. Closet bolts are the toilet hold down bolts.
> Use double ended bolts. Wood thread on one end, and machine screws on
> the other. Use wing nuts or hex nuts on the surface, as needed.
> (closet bolts?)
dbon...@gmail.com
Oct 24, 2012, 2:37:48 PM10/24/12
to
On Wednesday, October 24, 2012 3:03:14 PM UTC-2:30, dadiOH wrote:
I'm going to try C-channel along 3 sides (bolts remain on the 4th side) as a test to see if it will be secure enough. Simply remove those bolts and slide the entire panel out. Given that it is a small piece of ply I'm optimistic that it will be strong enough...if I see appreciable flex I'll go back to using bolts.
Apologies to those who didn't get my update on a 'climbing wall' application. I was trying to describe the problem in a generic manner so it might also be useful to others. I'm appreciative of the suggestions...I always learn something new when I post on this group.
> Bob F wrote:
> Hanger bolts. Closet bolts are the toilet hold down bolts.
In lieu of hanger bolts, I'm currently using threaded inserts (T-nuts) to bolt the panel in place. +1 since the bolt head will always be the same distance above the surface of the plywood, regardless of how much the bolt is tightened.
> Hanger bolts. Closet bolts are the toilet hold down bolts.
I'm going to try C-channel along 3 sides (bolts remain on the 4th side) as a test to see if it will be secure enough. Simply remove those bolts and slide the entire panel out. Given that it is a small piece of ply I'm optimistic that it will be strong enough...if I see appreciable flex I'll go back to using bolts.
Apologies to those who didn't get my update on a 'climbing wall' application. I was trying to describe the problem in a generic manner so it might also be useful to others. I'm appreciative of the suggestions...I always learn something new when I post on this group.
Lamont
Oct 24, 2012, 4:16:34 PM10/24/12
to
On 10/24/2012 9:32 AM, k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz wrote:
>
> Evidenlty they don't know how to punctuate, though.
>
Evidenlty????
>
> Evidenlty they don't know how to punctuate, though.
>
Harry Johnson
Oct 24, 2012, 6:47:46 PM10/24/12
to
On 10/24/2012 11:06 AM, Bob F wrote:
> If you read what he posts, you will realize that he is a little too dim to learn
> to do things "right".
Is the mormon mentally retarded?
> If you read what he posts, you will realize that he is a little too dim to learn
> to do things "right".
Doug
Oct 25, 2012, 8:04:05 AM10/25/12
to
facts.
I tend to agree about the "replies" but not the other crap. I will
tolerate it from anyone if it's not done often.
dbon...@gmail.com
Nov 13, 2012, 8:35:17 AM11/13/12
to
On Tuesday, October 23, 2012 1:01:14 PM UTC-2:30, Harry K wrote:
> On Tuesday, October 23, 2012 7:52:23 AM UTC-7, dbon...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> On Tuesday, October 23, 2012 7:52:23 AM UTC-7, dbon...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> > Anyone have ideas on a faster method that would hold the panel securely in place? Hinges won't work because of clearance issues.
>
>
> "Z" or "C" channel on one edge and bottom to set panel in and a screw to secure the opposite edge? There are other fasteners by the dozens for the free edge.
>
Quick update: Plywood panel is triangular. I got away with 3 low-profile bolts on the hypotenuse and installed C-channel for the other 2 sides to mate with (against ceiling and wall). Very secure, no problem for climbing. The only problem now is a slight warp in the plywood which can make inserting/removing a bit challenging.
>
I tried straightening the plywood but no success (even with heat/pressure). Guess I'll do some spot sanding to make things a bit smoother.
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