pitfalls in replacing old toilet?
Tom
a crack going from a bolt hole in the tank right up the side. Water was
spewing out the bottom. It was lucky that I was home.
After lots of reading, I've seen the following:
-you can seal it
-you shouldn't seal it, it will always have the danger of a leaking disaster
-you can't use a modern tank as a replacement
-new toilets are apt to suffer from poor flushing and many models suffer from
leaks -- unless I get some $500 Japanese model
I wish I could just replace or repair the tank, I'm not concerned about looks
or anything. But it seems like replacing is the only option. The old toilet is
maybe 1960s, 1970s? The house is 1950s.
So my question is: are there pitfalls awaiting in trying to put a new toilet
where the old one had been? Will the bolts in the floor automatically match
up? Will the old flange need replacing? Anything else? Thanks.
Frank
I once tried to put back old toilet removed by plumber for access and
ended up breaking it. That's been experience of several people I've
talked to as you have to be careful.
I had plumber replace with a newer low flush toilet and flushing is fine.
Since, I've had 2 other old toilets replaced and they flush great too.
Maybe when low flush was first mandated, toilets were less than
satisfactory but new are fine. Few years ago but plumber got $300 for
cost of new toilet and replacing old.
k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz
The only variable is the distance from the wall. I believe there are two
"standard" dimensions, 10" and 12", with 12" being more common. If the flange
is installed correctly and isn't rotted out, it's a simple job to replace the
toilet. ...and I *hate* plumbing.
Ed Pawlowski
"Tom" <n...@no.com> wrote
>
> After lots of reading, I've seen the following:
>
> -you can seal it
> -you shouldn't seal it, it will always have the danger of a leaking
> disaster
>
> -you can't use a modern tank as a replacement
>
> -new toilets are apt to suffer from poor flushing and many models suffer
> from
> leaks -- unless I get some $500 Japanese model
Lets get the truth here first. For a while, low flush toilets were not very
good. Today, they are as good as any. Kohler, American Standard, Toto make
excellent models at reasonable prices.
> I wish I could just replace or repair the tank, I'm not concerned about
> looks
> or anything. But it seems like replacing is the only option. The old
> toilet is
> maybe 1960s, 1970s? The house is 1950s.
It is plain foolish to consider repairing a ceramic tank. It cracked once,
there could be other invisible stress cracks and it can go again. Just buy
a new setup and be set for the next 30 to 50 years.
>
> So my question is: are there pitfalls awaiting in trying to put a new
> toilet
> where the old one had been? Will the bolts in the floor automatically
> match
> up? Will the old flange need replacing? Anything else? Thanks.
Flange is probably OK and bolt holes too. You will need new bolts and a wax
or rubber ring. If you are reluctant to tackle the job yourself, a plumber
is probably $100 to $150 for the job.
Twaynes
Ed Pawlowski <e...@snetnospam.net> typed:
+1; hit all the bases, finally except one I ran into: Toilet Base Outline
might vary from old to new toilet. had to cut away the overlayment and tile
to get the wax ring to seat well but setback and bolts aligned perfectly
(easy to tell by marks on the ring after test-fitting the toilet and the
main pipe was already against an overhead supportiing beam). Fit in a
solaris linoleum after the toilet was installed; looked fine.
HTH,
Twayne`
Molly Brown
This link isn’t working right now due to some company upgrade but you
can try it again tomorrow.
Reed
Have you looked into used, second-hand plumbing outlets for a matching
tank ?? My local "Habitat for Humanity ReSale" shop probably has 30
old toilets of various vintages for sale right now.
aemeijers
Around here, Habitat calls it ReStore...
I'll second that. And since you need to take it all apart anyway (can't
trust tank-bowl seal once it has bounced around in a truck), drop a
rebuild kit in as you put it back together, and you should be good for
20-30 years. I was just at the local ReStore yesterday, and even in this
small town, they had at least a dozen all lined up. Helpful hint- make
a cardboard template of the base outline of the existing toilet, from
centerline in back, to centerline in front, and take that with you. Some
number 12 electrical wire bent to match the contours will get you
started. (Or scribe it Norm Abrams style, if you know how to do that,
and have a set of dividers.) Use that to mark the cardboard, then cut
and test-fit. This half-template will make narrowing down the used or
new toilets a lot faster. Just slide it around the demo unit, and you
know instantly if you will have ghost outline problems. Don't forget to
make a mark on the template where the the bolt hole is.
--
aem sends...
Colbyt
"Tom" <n...@no.com> wrote in message news:hv2s7a$45j$1...@speranza.aioe.org...
Measure from the wall, not the baseboard, to the flange bolts, the ones in
the floor. If it is 11-1/4" to 12-1/2" any modern toilet you buy should
work fine.
You may also be able to score a free used tank by cruising around the day
before trash pickup.
To fully understand what you ate getting into I suggest this article:
http://househomerepair.com/4-Replacing-a-Toilet-Part-One.html
Be glad to answer any follow-up questions you might have
--
Colbyt
Please come visit http://www.househomerepair.com
terry
> "Tom" <n...@no.com> wrote in messagenews:hv2s7a$45j$1...@speranza.aioe.org...
>
> - Show quoted text -
Judging by some of the initial questions the OP may not have much
experience?
However all home and do it your self repairers have to start
somewhere!
And almost every job one does one learns something and or stores away
info for next time somewhere in the future.
Sometimes it can be as detailed as "Remember the time we changed the
toilet and the section on end of the sewer pipe to which on attaches
the toilet base, had cracked ..............and we put longer
stainless steel bolts right down through the floor because we could
get at the underside? Gee; let's see now, it's worked that way for
what is it now six years?
Also btw keep a spare wax seal somewhere close by. Chances are that
next time toilet has to be taken up it'll be 10.30 PM on the last
business day before a long weekend! And if it's not you, it will a
neighbour or son in law who is desperately looking for one!
It's all part of owning your own home!!!!! In some 50+ years we have
had three toilets in two different homes with both septic tank and
municipal service. Considering the amount of use they get, they
require very little maintenance.
Tom
>
> To fully understand what you ate getting into I suggest this article:
> http://househomerepair.com/4-Replacing-a-Toilet-Part-One.html
thanks. well done article, with lots more info than a video contains. But I
can't find the "What to do when your toilet installation goes wrong" that's
referenced. I'd like to read that one, too, before beginning.
Colbyt
"Tom" <n...@no.com> wrote in message news:hv3v1g$2bl$1...@speranza.aioe.org...
Oops, Let me check. I may not have posted it yet. I sometimes write them
and forget to post them.
And for sure the toilet in the box from the BORG will fit in the back of a
pickup, SUV or any car with a hatchback.
Colbyt
Ed Pawlowski
> figure
> I'd better just buy a new one (Koehler Wellworth) and get the job over
> with,
> ASAP. I've watched every video I could find online.
>
> However, I'm wondering if I can get an all-in-one-box kit home in my car?
> Will
> it fit in the trunk or back seat?
>
> Thanks to everybody for all the helpful replies.
That depends on what kind of car you have. Many of them have tiny trunk
openings. If you have a '59 Caddy, no problem.
Colbyt
"Tom" <n...@no.com> wrote in message news:hv3v1g$2bl$1...@speranza.aioe.org...
> Colbyt wrote:
>
> thanks. well done article, with lots more info than a video contains. But
> I
> can't find the "What to do when your toilet installation goes wrong"
> that's
> referenced. I'd like to read that one, too, before beginning.
Turns out that I haven't written that yet. I have some common pitfalls in
question format but never completed the list.
Here are a few potential problems you might encounter. Everyone is welcome
to add more to the list.
cutoff doesn't work
cutoff leaks
no cutoff
tank bolts won't loosen
floor bolts won't loosen
i have 4 bolts at the base
center of hole less than 11-1/2" from the wall, not the baseboard
flange is broken
flange is low in the floor.
floor is rotten
wall mounted tank
Answers can be posted if you encounter any of these.
HeyBub
> Colbyt wrote:
>>
>> Measure from the wall, not the baseboard, to the flange bolts, the
>> ones in the floor. If it is 11-1/4" to 12-1/2" any modern toilet
>> you buy should work fine.
>>
>> You may also be able to score a free used tank by cruising around
>> the day before trash pickup.
>>
>> To fully understand what you ate getting into I suggest this article:
>> http://househomerepair.com/4-Replacing-a-Toilet-Part-One.html
>>
>> Be glad to answer any follow-up questions you might have
>
> i figure I'd better just buy a new one (Koehler Wellworth) and get
> the job over with, ASAP. I've watched every video I could find online.
>
> However, I'm wondering if I can get an all-in-one-box kit home in my
> car? Will it fit in the trunk or back seat?
>
If it won't fit, open the box while in the parking lot and put all the parts
on the back seat. Abandon the box.
HeyBub
What could go wrong?
aemeijers
Awful hard to return it if you do that....
--
aem sends...
aemeijers
Murphy? Is that you?
--
aem sends...
Tom
> HeyBub wrote:
>> Tom wrote:
>>>
>>> However, I'm wondering if I can get an all-in-one-box kit home in my
>>> car? Will it fit in the trunk or back seat?
>>>
>>
>> If it won't fit, open the box while in the parking lot and put all the
>> parts on the back seat. Abandon the box.
>>
>
> Awful hard to return it if you do that....
>
yep, I had thought of both of those points this morning. But lo and behold the
whole box fit right into the back seat (Buick Century). Very good luck there.
So, the job is done and it wasn't as bad as I'd feared. The hardest part was
getting the old hardware out (4 on floor & 3 in tank). Even having the hole
open wasn't so bad - especially with all nearby windows and doors open.
I am wondering this: the old style float control would allow for fast filling
and then would shut off forcefully at the end with a big shockwave BAM! going
through the whole system. It was made by one of the well-known manufacturers,
so I debated whether that was acceptable or not. It had been like that for
years, maybe the accumulation was what caused the eventual break.
I guess I should have learned by now not to trust that corporations will make
things that are right.