Condenser Fan replacement CW or CCW which end is it viewed
MarkK
vibration. I see that one of the fan blades is cracked. I tried to
remove the fan blade from the motor but of course it is rusted on tight. So
I will replace both the motor and the fan.
(Please no lectures about how I should replace the entire unit to save
money)
The motor is 208/230 Volt 0.5 HP 1075 RPM standard frame 48 motor.
The blade is a 22" diameter 4 square blades. I don't know the pitch.
I see Grainger has the stuff I need, their fans are REVCOR which is even
the same brand as the original. They have a 22" diameter REVCOR blade
rated for 0.5 HP so that is probably what I need. Grainger has what looks
like the blade I need in both CW and CCW style. The original fan I have
turns CW when viewed from the top which is also the motor side and also the
discharge side.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/condenser-fan-blades/fan-blades-and-propell
ers/hvacr/ecatalog/N-d1dZ1z0m9wtZ1z0qiod
How is the CW. vs CCW specified for fans. Is it viewed from the intake
side or the discharge side, or from the hub or not hub side or?
If I get a universal reversible motor, then does it really matter which
blade I use, can I simply connect the motor so the blade turns the right
way?
thanks
Mark
Tony Hwang
> Hi,
The air flow sgould be upward. I think if you really want to remove the
blade just soak the seized part on the shaft with generous WD40 , let it
work it's way a few hours, repeat in needed then bearing puller....
>
Ken
> I have a 25 year old York A/C heat pump and the outdoor unit has a slight
> vibration. I see that one of the fan blades is cracked. I tried to
> remove the fan blade from the motor but of course it is rusted on tight. So
> I will replace both the motor and the fan.
>
> (Please no lectures about how I should replace the entire unit to save
> money)
>
> The motor is 208/230 Volt 0.5 HP 1075 RPM standard frame 48 motor.
>
> The blade is a 22" diameter 4 square blades. I don't know the pitch.
>
> I see Grainger has the stuff I need, their fans are REVCOR which is even
> the same brand as the original. They have a 22" diameter REVCOR blade
> rated for 0.5 HP so that is probably what I need. Grainger has what looks
> like the blade I need in both CW and CCW style. The original fan I have
> turns CW when viewed from the top which is also the motor side and also the
> discharge side.
>
> http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/condenser-fan-blades/fan-blades-and-propell
> ers/hvacr/ecatalog/N-d1dZ1z0m9wtZ1z0qiod
>
>
> How is the CW. vs CCW specified for fans. Is it viewed from the intake
> side or the discharge side, or from the hub or not hub side or?
The rotation of a motor is viewed by looking at the front of the motor
unless otherwise specified.
RBM
"MarkK" <mako...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:ish37q$v5n$1...@dont-email.me...
>
hr(bob) hofmann@att.net
> MarkK wrote:
> > I have a 25 year old York A/C heat pump and the outdoor unit has a slight
> > vibration. I see that one of the fan blades is cracked. I tried to
> > remove the fan blade from the motor but of course it is rusted on tight. So
> > I will replace both the motor and the fan.
>
> > (Please no lectures about how I should replace the entire unit to save
> > money)
>
> > The motor is 208/230 Volt 0.5 HP 1075 RPM standard frame 48 motor.
>
> > The blade is a 22" diameter 4 square blades. I don't know the pitch.
>
> > I see Grainger has the stuff I need, their fans are REVCOR which is even
> > the same brand as the original. They have a 22" diameter REVCOR blade
> > rated for 0.5 HP so that is probably what I need. Grainger has what looks
> > like the blade I need in both CW and CCW style. The original fan I have
> > turns CW when viewed from the top which is also the motor side and also the
> > discharge side.
>
> > ers/hvacr/ecatalog/N-d1dZ1z0m9wtZ1z0qiod
>
> > How is the CW. vs CCW specified for fans. Is it viewed from the intake
> > side or the discharge side, or from the hub or not hub side or?
>
> The rotation of a motor is viewed by looking at the front of the motor
> unless otherwise specified.
>
>
>
>
>
> > If I get a universal reversible motor, then does it really matter which
> > blade I use, can I simply connect the motor so the blade turns the right
> > way?
>
> > thanks
>
>
> - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
The OP asked about the blade!
Stormin Mormon
displacer? What happens if you put the fan in upside down?
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Tony Hwang" <drag...@shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:RaWGp.350$tp....@newsfe06.iad...
Stormin Mormon
man figure it out. I've always found that "bring the part
in" is always the way to go.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"MarkK" <mako...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:ish37q$v5n$1...@dont-email.me...
Bob Villa
> I have a 25 year old York A/C heat pump and the outdoor unit has a slight
> vibration. I see that one of the fan blades is cracked. I tried to
> remove the fan blade from the motor but of course it is rusted on tight. So
> I will replace both the motor and the fan.
>
> (Please no lectures about how I should replace the entire unit to save
> money)
>
> The motor is 208/230 Volt 0.5 HP 1075 RPM standard frame 48 motor.
>
> The blade is a 22" diameter 4 square blades. I don't know the pitch.
>
> I see Grainger has the stuff I need, their fans are REVCOR which is even
> the same brand as the original. They have a 22" diameter REVCOR blade
> rated for 0.5 HP so that is probably what I need. Grainger has what looks
> like the blade I need in both CW and CCW style. The original fan I have
> turns CW when viewed from the top which is also the motor side and also the
> discharge side.
>
> ers/hvacr/ecatalog/N-d1dZ1z0m9wtZ1z0qiod
>
> How is the CW. vs CCW specified for fans. Is it viewed from the intake
> side or the discharge side, or from the hub or not hub side or?
>
> If I get a universal reversible motor, then does it really matter which
> blade I use, can I simply connect the motor so the blade turns the right
> way?
>
> thanks
>
> Mark
Sometimes fans are double set-screwed (one on top of the other).
Stormin Mormon
hub may help loosen the fan blade. Bearing puller might
help.
Bring the fan blade with you to Grainger, to match it up.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"MarkK" <mako...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:ish37q$v5n$1...@dont-email.me...
willshak
Better than WD-40 is Liquid Wrench. Probably sold at the same place as
WD-40, or an auto parts store.
Let it sit for a while and try to remove it. If it still won't come off,
tap the end of the shaft with a hammer a few times.
If that fails, apply heat from a propane torch.
--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @
Jon Danniken
> Tony Hwang wrote the following:
>
>> the blade just soak the seized part on the shaft with generous WD40 ,
>> let it work it's way a few hours, repeat in needed then bearing
>> puller....
>
> Better than WD-40 is Liquid Wrench. Probably sold at the same place as
> WD-40, or an auto parts store.
> Let it sit for a while and try to remove it. If it still won't come
> off, tap the end of the shaft with a hammer a few times.
> If that fails, apply heat from a propane torch.
Better than WD-40 or Liquid Wrench is PB Blaster. Squirt some on it, repeat
whenever you remember, and come back the next day to remove it. You might
still have to tap it with something.
If that doesn't work, try the heat/cool approach with a torch, just don't
heat the shaft long enough to fry the bearings.
Jon
Smitty Two
<1de35cb1-5f02-43ee...@m10g2000yqd.googlegroups.com>,
"hr(bob) hof...@att.net" <hrho...@att.net> wrote:
> On Jun 5, 8:36 pm, Ken <K...@invalid.com> wrote:
> >
> > The rotation of a motor is viewed by looking at the front of the
> > motor
> > unless otherwise specified.
> >
>
> The OP asked about the blade!
Yes. And Ken answered the question. On most setups, the blade turns the
same direction as the motor.
HeyBub
Go to the auto parts store and ask for some "frozen bolt lubricant." There
are several products that are cheap and work amazingly well on rusted-shut
stuff. Less than five bucks (I'll wager a new motor would cost more than
that - especially at Grainger's).