Patching holes in a steel entry door

[sid]

The previous owner of my home mounted curtains on the front entry door. I took them down because they looked so bad, but now I have empty screw holes where the screws were for the brackets.

What would be the best product to use to patch those holes ? and that won't crack and fall out 2 years from now ?

It's a heavy steal entry door.

Any help is appreciated
Thanks

[bob haller]

screw a metal plate over the area, then paint door....

[Jerr...@spamblocked.com]

On Mon, 30 Mar 2015 19:25:17 -0700 (PDT), sid <sidw...@gmail.com>
wrote:

LB Weld. Then sand and paint it.

If it was my door, I'd probably just put the screws back in the door and
paint them to match.

[philo]

Since the door is assumed to be hollow, if you put filler in the holes
it may fall out. I'd just use pop rivets and paint to match.

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

On Mon, 30 Mar 2015 19:25:17 -0700 (PDT), sid <sidw...@gmail.com>
wrote:

JB weld or other filled epoxy, sanded smooth and painted.

[micky]

On Mon, 30 Mar 2015 22:02:56 -0500, philo <ph...@privacy.net> wrote:

>On 03/30/2015 09:25 PM, sid wrote:
>> The previous owner of my home mounted curtains on the front entry door. I took them down because they looked so bad, but now I have empty screw holes where the screws were for the brackets.
>>
>> What would be the best product to use to patch those holes ? and that won't crack and fall out 2 years from now ?
>>
>> It's a heavy steal entry door.

Or a wooden steel clad door. If that, it's probably not hollow in the
corners. If really steel***, it probably is hollow.

I had neighbors with a steel door with a life-time guarantee, the kind
advertised on TV. When the burglars broke through it, the door company
said they would get a free replacement door. Life-time guarantee.

***To find out what it's made of, remove the door and put it in the
bathtub. See if it floats or not. Don't let too many bubbles come out
of the holes or too much water get inside the door.

>> Any help is appreciated
>> Thanks
>>>
>Since the door is assumed to be hollow, if you put filler in the holes
>it may fall out.

Yes indeed.

> I'd just use pop rivets and paint to match.

They have holes in the middle. (although that might be cute. )

I might glue a small square or squares of metal over the area with the
holes. with a thin layer of PC-7, JB weld or best,, 5-minute epoxy,
because you can hold it in place until it sets.
>
>

[Mayhem]

On 03/30/2015 11:59 PM, Jerr...@spamblocked.com wrote:
> On Mon, 30 Mar 2015 19:25:17 -0700 (PDT), sid <sidw...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> The previous owner of my home mounted curtains on the front entry
> door. I took them down because they looked so bad, but now I have empty
> screw holes where the screws were for the brackets.
>>
>> What would be the best product to use to patch those holes ? and that
> won't crack and fall out 2 years from now ?
>>
>> It's a heavy steal entry door.
>>
>> Any help is appreciated
>> Thanks
>
> LB Weld. Then sand and paint it.
>

Is LB Weld a Chinese knock-off?

[Art Todesco]

I had a 1970s steel door with decorative plastic do-dads on it. They
were mounted via plastic barb-like extrusions and merely pushed into
holes in the steel. I removed the do-dads and used Bondo to fill and
slightly over fill the holes and then sand it smooth. Worked great.

[Stormin Mormon]

In the US, we are up to NB weld, they improve every
couple years. NASA has reported to use PB weld.
Has kind of a dull metalic look to it.

-
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.

[sidw...@gmail.com]

Do I have to lay to door flat to use any of these epoxies ?
Would be nice to leave the door in place and just glue.

[David L. Martel]

Sid,

Metal hole plugs will snap into the holes and stay until you pry them
out. Come in lots of sizes.

Dave M.

[Bill Gill]

I'm not sure about others, but Bondo is car body filler. It
will stick good in a vertical position.

Bill

[Mayayana]

| Do I have to lay to door flat to use any of these epoxies ?
| Would be nice to leave the door in place and just glue.

I'd second Bill Gill's advice. Bondo is
quick and will stay almost anywhere. I
also use it to fill hinge mortises, casing
joints and other areas where spackle
or wood putty would fall out. The one
critical point with Bondo is to keep track
of time. In under five minutes you can
shear off the excess with something like
a wallpaper scraper. In a couple more
minutes you'll need a Surfiorm plane. After
maybe 10 minutes you have a very hard
surface that will take work to sand. The
point being that you don't want to glop
it on and then expect to come back
tomorrow and sand it down.

If the Bondo ever does fall out you might
consider just attaching something that will
cover the holes and looks like it belongs
there.

[Ed Pawlowski]

On 3/30/2015 10:25 PM, sid wrote:

Bondo would work, but you'd have to buy too much to just fill a couple
of holes.

I'd get the type of epoxy that is on a ribbon. You cut off what you
need, mix by kneading it, then fill the holes.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#repair-epoxies/=wjrqza

[dadiOH]

sidw...@gmail.com wrote:

> Do I have to lay to door flat to use any of these epoxies ?
> Would be nice to leave the door in place and just glue.

If you use JBWeld or Bondo, they will sag a bit. Same for any epoxy filled
with whatever. However, as they start to set they get firmer, just push it
back. It can take anywhere from 2-20 minutes (Bondo) to start to set,1-3 or
more hours for epoxies, depends on how much catalyst you add.

Bondo is polyester resin with (mostly) talc and will set up the fastest.

[dadiOH]

Best idea yet.

dadiOH

[Oren]

On Tue, 31 Mar 2015 10:35:43 -0400, Ed Pawlowski <e...@snet.net> wrote:

>Bondo would work, but you'd have to buy too much to just fill a couple
>of holes.

...might look a Bondo glazing / spot putty. Sandable in 30 minutes.

<http://bondo.com/bondo-glazing-spot-putty-907.html>

[EXT]

"sid" <sidw...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:5fed3cf3-2353-42b7...@googlegroups.com...

The holes may have a ridge from the previously installed screws. Sand the
paint surface to rough it up and then just dimple the surface around the
hole so that the hole is depressed below the surface of the door. You can
use a ball peen hammer or a hammer with a punch to depress the surface
around the hole. Then you can use Bondo or use an epoxy filler that you cut
off a roll or ribbon and knead together then fill the hole to the surface.
Any that oozes into the hole will help keep it in place just as plaster
oozing between lath strips keeps it on the wall. I have used this method
when we removed some venetian blinds from a metal door. The patches have
lasted 10 years without any problems.

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

On Tue, 31 Mar 2015 08:27:04 -0400, Stormin Mormon
<cayo...@hotmail.com> wrote:

>On 3/31/2015 4:25 AM, Mayhem wrote:
>> On 03/30/2015 11:59 PM, Jerr...@spamblocked.com wrote:
>>>> What would be the best product to use to patch those holes ? and that
>>> won't crack and fall out 2 years from now ?
>>>>
>>>> It's a heavy steal entry door.
>>>>
>>>> Any help is appreciated
>>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> LB Weld. Then sand and paint it.
>>>
>>
>> Is LB Weld a Chinese knock-off?
>>
>
>In the US, we are up to NB weld, they improve every
>couple years. NASA has reported to use PB weld.
>Has kind of a dull metalic look to it.
>

-Easily removed with PB Blaster, too!!

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

On Tue, 31 Mar 2015 08:14:21 -0500, Bill Gill <bill...@cox.net>
wrote:

As will JB weld

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

The new UV cure adhesives would be the "cat's meow" for that
application (like the stuff the dentists use now instead of amalgam
fillings) - like MasterBond or Loctite UV Cure adhesive

[Oren]

For giggles I'd try a hardening Permatex gasket sealer. Four dabs,
cure, and paint. <G>

Bondo works good on residential metal door dent & dimples. Metal work
and Bondo is an art.

[Oren]

On Tue, 31 Mar 2015 11:01:50 -0400, "dadiOH" <dad...@invalid.com>
wrote:

>> I'd get the type of epoxy that is on a ribbon. You cut off what you
>> need, mix by kneading it, then fill the holes.
>
>Best idea yet.

Good.

How do you make the repair not look obvious?

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

Sand and paint. Just like doing body work on a car, or patching
drywall. Fill the hole with the epoxy, Knock off the high spots with
sand paper. then add a bit of autobody glazing putty and feather it,
then paint.

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

The only problem with bondo is it is NOT waterproof. If moisture can
get to the back it will eventually pop. That's why you fill the hole
with brazing or fiberglass or filled epoxy first. On a door moisture
should not be a serious problem, but by principal I only use "bondo"
over a sealed surface. Fixes dents, but not holes. Rusty car body?
Braze in patch or fill hole with fiber-glass/epoxy, then smooth it out
with "bondo". I like the "lightweight" filler that uses
"microballoons" instead of talc for filler. It is also more water
resistant.

If it is just a nice smooth small (like a #6) screw hole, the
suggestion of a bit of gasket sealer might not be too far off. I'd try
a paintable urethane or thermoplastic caulk dobbed in and smoothed
with a wet finger.

[ChairMan]

Yabbut, he could do the same with JB weld, too

[micky]

On Tue, 31 Mar 2015 08:14:21 -0500, Bill Gill <bill...@cox.net> wrote:

When I've used it on a fender, for example, I've always turned the car
on its side.

>Bill

[Stormin Mormon]

On 4/1/2015 3:29 AM, micky wrote:
>>> Do I have to lay to door flat to use any of these epoxies ?
>>> Would be nice to leave the door in place and just glue.
>>>
>> I'm not sure about others, but Bondo is car body filler. It
>> will stick good in a vertical position.
>
> When I've used it on a fender, for example, I've always turned the car
> on its side.
>
>> Bill
>

I had to do that with a muffler patch, on the
bottom. Problem is the blue washer fluid puddled
under the hood (bonnet for UK) and was hard to
recover.

-

[Thomas]

On Monday, March 30, 2015 at 10:25:21 PM UTC-4, sid wrote:
> The previous owner of my home mounted curtains on the front entry >door. I took them down because they looked so bad,

Not suggeted yet is to put up curtains that do not look bad.

[micky]

On Tue, 31 Mar 2015 11:03:18 -0700, Oren <Or...@127.0.0.1> wrote:

>On Tue, 31 Mar 2015 12:49:03 -0400, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
>
>>On Tue, 31 Mar 2015 08:31:19 -0700, Oren <Or...@127.0.0.1> wrote:
>>
>>>On Tue, 31 Mar 2015 10:35:43 -0400, Ed Pawlowski <e...@snet.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>>Bondo would work, but you'd have to buy too much to just fill a couple
>>>>of holes.
>>>
>>>...might look a Bondo glazing / spot putty. Sandable in 30 minutes.
>>>
>>><http://bondo.com/bondo-glazing-spot-putty-907.html>
>
>> The new UV cure adhesives would be the "cat's meow" for that
>>application (like the stuff the dentists use now instead of amalgam
>>fillings) - like MasterBond or Loctite UV Cure adhesive

Doesn't that need UV to cure? Is t here enough UV inside someone's
house?

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

On Wed, 08 Apr 2015 05:50:08 -0400, micky <NONONO...@bigfoot.com>

wrote:

>On Tue, 31 Mar 2015 11:03:18 -0700, Oren <Or...@127.0.0.1> wrote:
>
>>On Tue, 31 Mar 2015 12:49:03 -0400, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
>>
>>>On Tue, 31 Mar 2015 08:31:19 -0700, Oren <Or...@127.0.0.1> wrote:
>>>
>>>>On Tue, 31 Mar 2015 10:35:43 -0400, Ed Pawlowski <e...@snet.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>Bondo would work, but you'd have to buy too much to just fill a couple
>>>>>of holes.
>>>>
>>>>...might look a Bondo glazing / spot putty. Sandable in 30 minutes.
>>>>
>>>><http://bondo.com/bondo-glazing-spot-putty-907.html>
>>
>>> The new UV cure adhesives would be the "cat's meow" for that
>>>application (like the stuff the dentists use now instead of amalgam
>>>fillings) - like MasterBond or Loctite UV Cure adhesive
>
>Doesn't that need UV to cure? Is t here enough UV inside someone's
>house?

The kits come with a "uv pen" that hardens the resin in seconds. The
fishin fly-tiers love it.

[Oren]

On Wed, 08 Apr 2015 16:23:39 -0400, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:

>On Wed, 08 Apr 2015 05:50:08 -0400, micky <NONONO...@bigfoot.com>
>wrote:
>
>>On Tue, 31 Mar 2015 11:03:18 -0700, Oren <Or...@127.0.0.1> wrote:
>>
>>>On Tue, 31 Mar 2015 12:49:03 -0400, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
>>>
>>>>On Tue, 31 Mar 2015 08:31:19 -0700, Oren <Or...@127.0.0.1> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>On Tue, 31 Mar 2015 10:35:43 -0400, Ed Pawlowski <e...@snet.net> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>Bondo would work, but you'd have to buy too much to just fill a couple
>>>>>>of holes.
>>>>>
>>>>>...might look a Bondo glazing / spot putty. Sandable in 30 minutes.
>>>>>
>>>>><http://bondo.com/bondo-glazing-spot-putty-907.html>
>>>
>>>> The new UV cure adhesives would be the "cat's meow" for that
>>>>application (like the stuff the dentists use now instead of amalgam
>>>>fillings) - like MasterBond or Loctite UV Cure adhesive
>>
>>Doesn't that need UV to cure? Is t here enough UV inside someone's
>>house?
>
>The kits come with a "uv pen" that hardens the resin in seconds. The
>fishin fly-tiers love it.

Very interesting, thanks.

<http://www.loctite.com.au/light-cure-adhesive-4063.htm>

[Stormin Mormon]

[angel]

> On Wed, 08 Apr 2015 16:23:39 -0400, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
>
>> On Wed, 08 Apr 2015 05:50:08 -0400, micky <NONONO...@bigfoot.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> On Tue, 31 Mar 2015 11:03:18 -0700, Oren <Or...@127.0.0.1> wrote:
>>>
>>>> On Tue, 31 Mar 2015 12:49:03 -0400, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On Tue, 31 Mar 2015 08:31:19 -0700, Oren <Or...@127.0.0.1> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> On Tue, 31 Mar 2015 10:35:43 -0400, Ed Pawlowski <e...@snet.net> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Bondo would work, but you'd have to buy too much to just fill a couple
>>>>>>> of holes.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> ...might look a Bondo glazing / spot putty. Sandable in 30 minutes.
||

|| [christmas presents]

[Tekkie®]

Oren posted for all of us...

> >The kits come with a "uv pen" that hardens the resin in seconds. The
> >fishin fly-tiers love it.
>
> Very interesting, thanks.
>
> <http://www.loctite.com.au/light-cure-adhesive-4063.htm>
>

Golly gee, now I can do my own dentistry!

--
Tekkie *Please post a follow-up*

[Oren]

On Tue, 14 Apr 2015 16:51:02 -0400, Tekkie® <Tek...@comcast.net>
wrote:

>Golly gee, now I can do my own dentistry!

Buy your own UV pen - when not covered by Obamacare.

[cprtrain...@gmail.com]

Thanks guys, this was very informative, and I will certainly try one of these great ideas, but until then....

I just removed my glasses, and now I don’t see the holes anymore. Problem solved!

- Little Mrs. Fixit ;)