The local bigbox hardware store has 75' rolls
of 'bell wire', and I think the easiest & most
out-of-sight route is down the door frame and
under some moulding around to a basement window
(I can't go in through the wall).
The wire is 3 conductor with an outer sheath,
but it does not specify indoor or outdoor use.
Is there any code (Canada) regarding exterior
cable in low-voltage applications such as this?
URL's, pointers and opinions welcome.
what about a wireless doorbell
[snip]
> what about a wireless doorbell
There's a base for one stuck to the doorframe;
Either a previous tenant took part of it with
him, or some kid from the neighborhood did.
I want to install something a little more
permanent...
No, not the old style ding-dong types. this is like the regular bells.
Bob
I just fixed our doorbell a few months ago. It broke in 1982 and frankly,
we didn't miss it. People that I really want to see know to come to the
side door by the family room.
I purchased one of these, and it went off constantly, even when the wind
would blow.
Thanks.
Corinne
"RobertM" <re...@newsgroup.com> wrote in message
news:drh9og$eafc$1...@news3.infoave.net...
"Corinne" <basin...@nwi.com> wrote in message
news:oXZCf.221$G42.1...@news.sisna.com...
http://www.kopes.com/gadgets/security/wireless-chime.htm
Instructions say you can experiment with putting tape over part of the
sensor for limiting direction. Only time I have a false alert was during
a windstorm when a large branch fell.
Bob
http://www.kopes.com/gadgets/security/wireless-chime.htm
Bob
That being said, the typical scenario is a step-down transformer to
reduce your 120Vac to typically 24Vac, which then runs up to your chime
and push button. My personal recommendation is to run a minimum of
14guage wire.
Beyond that, you may not want to run the wire where it is exposed as
there is a higher degree for tampering with it, and being affected by
the elements.
Bob
Bob
> Randy, I have skimmed the Canadian Electrical Code-Part 1 and "Wiring
> for Canadian Homes and Cottages" (CSA publication as well), and could
> find no references to the above.
>
> That being said, the typical scenario is a step-down transformer to
> reduce your 120Vac to typically 24Vac, which then runs up to your chime
> and push button. My personal recommendation is to run a minimum of
> 14guage wire.
My intention is to be as by-the-book on this
as possible. I know about the 24v xformer, and
I suspected the 'book' might not address it
because of that, but I thought I should ask the
experts here before assuming anything.
So there are no apparent restrictions on it,
but no guidelines, either. Oh well...
14 gauge might be a bit large to fit under the
moulding, but I'll look into it.
>
> Beyond that, you may not want to run the wire where it is exposed as
> there is a higher degree for tampering with it, and being affected by
> the elements.
I don't have the option of ripping out the wall
to install the wire, so exterior seems the least
objectionable alternative.
Thanks.
There's a small plastic plate mounted
by the front door where a doorbell
would be; someone had a wireless unit
and took it away with him, or someone
else took the button...
Something like that seems a little too
'portable' for a rental unit.
>Randy Day wrote:
>> cornyt...@hotmail.com wrote:
>>> Randy Day wrote:
>>
>> [snip]
>>
>>> what about a wireless doorbell
>>
>> There's a base for one stuck to the doorframe;
>> Either a previous tenant took part of it with
>> him, or some kid from the neighborhood did.
>>
>> I want to install something a little more
>> permanent...
>
> People think that the more times they push a button, the faster I'll
>get to the door.
Now I'm getting an idea for an anti-multiple-presses device. Have the
button start a timer that causes additional button presses during the
next 3 seconds (or whatever you specify) to be ignored.
> I finally replaced it with a wireless motion sensor
>mounted out of reach that beeps inside when someone drives in the
>driveway or starts walking up the front sidewalk.
I used to have one of those motion detectors. I got tired of birds
(warm bodies) setting the thing off every few minutes. Reducing the
sensitivity just replaces lots of false positives with lots of false
negatives.
>Then I put a large
>round doorbell button with no wiring next to the door so people can push
>the button all day to relieve their anxieties while they wait for me to
>answer the door. The transmitter and receiver together cost $34 for the
>wireless motion sensor, and it's sure easier than running wires.
>
> Bob
BTW, while I was typing that, I got to see an example of when Windows
unexpectedly disables insert mode. As I was correcting a mistake, I
could see the cursor "eating" the following text.
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com
"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what
to have for lunch. Liberty is a well armed lamb
contesting the vote." - Benjamin Franklin
> Now I'm getting an idea for an anti-multiple-presses device. Have the
> button start a timer that causes additional button presses during the
> next 3 seconds (or whatever you specify) to be ignored.
>
Easy enough to do with an Interval On relay. Or a timer chip such as a
LM555 or 74HC122. The 74HC122 would be good because it's a retriggerable
flip-flop. Every time they pushed the button it would extend the
non-response time for another 3 seconds. The more they pushed the
button, the more they wouldn't be heard. I kind of like that.
Bob
>Randy, I have skimmed the Canadian Electrical Code-Part 1 and "Wiring
>for Canadian Homes and Cottages" (CSA publication as well), and could
>find no references to the above.
>
>That being said, the typical scenario is a step-down transformer to
>reduce your 120Vac to typically 24Vac, which then runs up to your chime
>and push button. My personal recommendation is to run a minimum of
>14guage wire.
>
I looked at the transformer for my doorbell. The secondary is marked
"16V". The measured voltage is 19.3VAC. The wire connected to it looks
like 24 gauge.
>Beyond that, you may not want to run the wire where it is exposed as
>there is a higher degree for tampering with it, and being affected by
>the elements.
>Justin West wrote:
>
>> Randy, I have skimmed the Canadian Electrical Code-Part 1 and "Wiring
>> for Canadian Homes and Cottages" (CSA publication as well), and could
>> find no references to the above.
>>
>> That being said, the typical scenario is a step-down transformer to
>> reduce your 120Vac to typically 24Vac, which then runs up to your chime
>> and push button. My personal recommendation is to run a minimum of
>> 14guage wire.
>
>My intention is to be as by-the-book on this
>as possible. I know about the 24v xformer, and
>I suspected the 'book' might not address it
>because of that, but I thought I should ask the
>experts here before assuming anything.
>
>So there are no apparent restrictions on it,
>but no guidelines, either. Oh well...
>
>14 gauge might be a bit large to fit under the
>moulding, but I'll look into it.
>
And seems excessive for just the low-voltage circuit for a doorbell.
Those transformers probably can't put out more than 1A or so. 24 gauge
should be suitable.
>>
>> Beyond that, you may not want to run the wire where it is exposed as
>> there is a higher degree for tampering with it, and being affected by
>> the elements.
>
>I don't have the option of ripping out the wall
>to install the wire, so exterior seems the least
>objectionable alternative.
>
>Thanks.
Your link brings up a page of electrical generators and
appliances.
I'm not talking about the little mechanical toy types,
either. I've been to Home Depot and I've seen the
wireless units. A receiver/bell you stick on the wall
like a regular bell unit, and 2 doorbell-switch-sized
transmitters you mount at each door. That's the kind
that was apparently installed here at one time.
My point still stands; I *don't* consider wireless units
to be suitable for rental units because it's *too easy*
for a light-fingered tenant to make off with a working
doorbell system.
Screw the bell, put on a knocker