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How do you 'unstick' a seized Garbage Disposal Unit?
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RobertMacy
Dec 12, 2014, 5:50:19 PM12/12/14
to
Have an Insinkerator(sp?) garbage disposal unit in the kitchen.
Badger 1-83A with a power cord.
The kitchen sink was not used very often, and the disposal not run for a
while, suspect rusted 'solid'
Called 800 558 5700 and was told the wrench should enable to unstick [it
did not] and don't recommend using any chemicals. Probably have to
replace. Ok, so if I have to replace what do I lose by simply trying
chemicals?
Does anybody know some way to unstick this thing?
maybe muriatic acid to eat rust, or Whink, HF acid, or ?? I tried
lengthening the short 1/4 inch allen wrench to about a foot, but still
solid.
Any ideas? I even tried the 800 ft-lb 'hammer wrench' feature of
Rockewell's 3Rill drill to no avail. May have started to strip the allen
wrench hole, though.
Badger 1-83A with a power cord.
The kitchen sink was not used very often, and the disposal not run for a
while, suspect rusted 'solid'
Called 800 558 5700 and was told the wrench should enable to unstick [it
did not] and don't recommend using any chemicals. Probably have to
replace. Ok, so if I have to replace what do I lose by simply trying
chemicals?
Does anybody know some way to unstick this thing?
maybe muriatic acid to eat rust, or Whink, HF acid, or ?? I tried
lengthening the short 1/4 inch allen wrench to about a foot, but still
solid.
Any ideas? I even tried the 800 ft-lb 'hammer wrench' feature of
Rockewell's 3Rill drill to no avail. May have started to strip the allen
wrench hole, though.
philo
Dec 12, 2014, 6:15:23 PM12/12/14
to
out with a pliers. If not, since you cannot turn it with the Allen
wrench...time for a new one. Sounds like the motor is ceased.
Todd
Dec 12, 2014, 6:34:04 PM12/12/14
to
Meanie
Dec 12, 2014, 8:24:44 PM12/12/14
to
On 12/12/2014 6:15 PM, philo wrote:
>>
>>
>
>
>
> With the power off, see if there is anything stuck that could be pulled
> out with a pliers. If not, since you cannot turn it with the Allen
> wrench...time for a new one. Sounds like the motor is ceased.
Most disposals can be released with a bit of leverage. I agree...it's a
>>
>>
>
>
>
> With the power off, see if there is anything stuck that could be pulled
> out with a pliers. If not, since you cannot turn it with the Allen
> wrench...time for a new one. Sounds like the motor is ceased.
ceased motor.
ChairMan
Dec 12, 2014, 8:27:49 PM12/12/14
to
top of the disposer.
Wedge it in there and see if you can get it to turn
bob_villa
Dec 12, 2014, 8:46:09 PM12/12/14
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On Friday, December 12, 2014 4:50:19 PM UTC-6, Robert Macy wrote:
> Have an Insinkerator(sp?) garbage disposal unit in the kitchen.
All Insinkerators I have worked on or owned could be removed by a 1/4 turn...after removing the side discharge pipe.
> Have an Insinkerator(sp?) garbage disposal unit in the kitchen.
Ed Pawlowski
Dec 12, 2014, 9:26:32 PM12/12/14
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Gordon Shumway
Dec 12, 2014, 10:09:05 PM12/12/14
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On Fri, 12 Dec 2014 15:52:24 -0700, RobertMacy
<robert...@gmail.com> wrote:
>Any ideas? I even tried the 800 ft-lb 'hammer wrench' feature of
>Rockewell's 3Rill drill to no avail. May have started to strip the allen
>wrench hole, though.
http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Agarbage%20disposal
<robert...@gmail.com> wrote:
>Any ideas? I even tried the 800 ft-lb 'hammer wrench' feature of
>Rockewell's 3Rill drill to no avail. May have started to strip the allen
>wrench hole, though.
micky
Dec 13, 2014, 2:53:17 AM12/13/14
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micky
Dec 13, 2014, 2:56:38 AM12/13/14
to
>Have an Insinkerator(sp?) garbage disposal unit in the kitchen.
You spelled it right.
90% of the volume of other brands are made by them too.
If you have to replace it, a small to medium (or big?) floor jack is a
great way to lift it up while you're turning it like a glass jar turning
into its lid.
trader_4
Dec 13, 2014, 6:47:41 AM12/13/14
to
rusted, but had something stuck in it, then it might only go in the
reverse direction. If that much force won't loosen it up, I'd say it's
shot. Unlikely even if you get it to move that it will free up enough
to work right or last much longer. If I were going to try something,
I guess some light oil poured in and allowed to sit for a couple days
might do something, but I tend to doubt you'll resurect it. Also, how
old is it? If it's 10+, that's more than you can expect. I see new
basic ones going in just 895 years.
Doug Miller
Dec 13, 2014, 7:04:23 AM12/13/14
to
trader_4 <tra...@optonline.net> wrote in news:40bb285f-3a2e-4acd-a0f6-6a24be4d1502
@googlegroups.com:
>[...] I see new basic ones going in just 895 years.
I guess that's the "Methuselah" model, right? Having a hard time imagining what you intended
to type, but I'm pretty sure that wasn't it.
@googlegroups.com:
>[...] I see new basic ones going in just 895 years.
I guess that's the "Methuselah" model, right? Having a hard time imagining what you intended
to type, but I'm pretty sure that wasn't it.
Meanie
Dec 13, 2014, 7:12:17 AM12/13/14
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trader_4
Dec 13, 2014, 7:25:40 AM12/13/14
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Stormin Mormon
Dec 13, 2014, 8:06:49 AM12/13/14
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times, and was able to free it up and oil it. But,
that's a dry environment. In this case, I'd be think
to replace the whole disposal, especially one with a
ceased motor.
--
.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
Stormin Mormon
Dec 13, 2014, 8:08:22 AM12/13/14
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if it ceased to seize?
--
.
Christopher A. Young
www.lds.org
.
Stormin Mormon
Dec 13, 2014, 8:10:10 AM12/13/14
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garbage disposal unit? Ha, ha, Instinkerator.
--
.
Christopher A. Young
www.lds.org
.
RobertMacy
Dec 13, 2014, 11:14:34 AM12/13/14
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On Fri, 12 Dec 2014 16:34:00 -0700, Todd <To...@invalid.invalid> wrote:
>> ...snip....
'stainless steel' in OUR kitchen. Our kitchen is all SS appliances. We
have a sheen of brown forming over the fridge surface every few days which
must be wiped off. The SS sink has little spots etc. Only the GE [yecch!]
appliances are not so bad, just streak etc.
In another home, I actually had a pinhole rust right through a 'high end'
SS sink!
But maybe SS insides might be a bit better, but it was my undeerstanding
that ALL blades [and insides] were pretty much standard iron products and
open to rusting.
>> ...snip....
> Get a stainless steel unit. no rust. last much longer
uh, you must have missed my VERY long diatribe regarding the phrase
'stainless steel' in OUR kitchen. Our kitchen is all SS appliances. We
have a sheen of brown forming over the fridge surface every few days which
must be wiped off. The SS sink has little spots etc. Only the GE [yecch!]
appliances are not so bad, just streak etc.
In another home, I actually had a pinhole rust right through a 'high end'
SS sink!
But maybe SS insides might be a bit better, but it was my undeerstanding
that ALL blades [and insides] were pretty much standard iron products and
open to rusting.
RobertMacy
Dec 13, 2014, 11:17:51 AM12/13/14
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RobertMacy
Dec 13, 2014, 11:18:20 AM12/13/14
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RobertMacy
Dec 13, 2014, 11:24:51 AM12/13/14
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On Sat, 13 Dec 2014 04:47:38 -0700, trader_4 <tra...@optonline.net> wrote:
>> ...snip...
period of time]
it was made May 2008 and intalled in new home that we moved into circa
2011, so wasn't really used much. Then, we ran from time to time, once in
a while, but since we are on septic [expensive double tank septic!] we
don't like to put much down it and rely upon our trash service instead.
Then, went through a spate of not really using the sink, or exercising the
GD, so thus it seized up [I'm thinking]
895 years?! not bad.
>> ...snip...
> I assume you tried moving it in both directions? If it's not just
> rusted, but had something stuck in it, then it might only go in the
> reverse direction. If that much force won't loosen it up, I'd say it's
> shot. Unlikely even if you get it to move that it will free up enough
> to work right or last much longer. If I were going to try something,
> I guess some light oil poured in and allowed to sit for a couple days
> might do something, but I tend to doubt you'll resurect it. Also, how
> old is it? If it's 10+, that's more than you can expect. I see new
> basic ones going in just 895 years.
yes, both directions. motor hums when switch is activated [very short
> rusted, but had something stuck in it, then it might only go in the
> reverse direction. If that much force won't loosen it up, I'd say it's
> shot. Unlikely even if you get it to move that it will free up enough
> to work right or last much longer. If I were going to try something,
> I guess some light oil poured in and allowed to sit for a couple days
> might do something, but I tend to doubt you'll resurect it. Also, how
> old is it? If it's 10+, that's more than you can expect. I see new
> basic ones going in just 895 years.
period of time]
it was made May 2008 and intalled in new home that we moved into circa
2011, so wasn't really used much. Then, we ran from time to time, once in
a while, but since we are on septic [expensive double tank septic!] we
don't like to put much down it and rely upon our trash service instead.
Then, went through a spate of not really using the sink, or exercising the
GD, so thus it seized up [I'm thinking]
895 years?! not bad.
bob_villa
Dec 13, 2014, 11:36:40 AM12/13/14
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On Saturday, December 13, 2014 10:18:20 AM UTC-6, Robert Macy wrote:
> Didn't know they were so heavy/awkward.
They aren't!
> Didn't know they were so heavy/awkward.
Oren
Dec 13, 2014, 11:56:36 AM12/13/14
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On Fri, 12 Dec 2014 19:27:44 -0600, "ChairMan" <nos...@thanks.com>
wrote:
>the old fashion way of using a broom stick handle from the
>top of the disposer.
>Wedge it in there and see if you can get it to turn
>
+1 One or both of the cutting blades may have wedged against the
side, keeping the unit from spinning.
OP:
Try the broomstick to see if you can move the cutting blades (free
them up).
wrote:
>the old fashion way of using a broom stick handle from the
>top of the disposer.
>Wedge it in there and see if you can get it to turn
>
side, keeping the unit from spinning.
OP:
Try the broomstick to see if you can move the cutting blades (free
them up).
trader_4
Dec 13, 2014, 12:05:19 PM12/13/14
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an Insinkerator that's about 6 years old now, still working fine.
I recently installed a WasteKing. They are made in USA, a lot cheaper.
I paid around $95, the similar Insink would have cost twice that.
WK has a lifetime warranty, in home, I believe. How good they are
honoring it, IDK. I have to say the Insink is a lot quieter, both
when running, but especially when it starts up. The WK has a loud,
nasty bang when the blades move out, I guess. After that, it's still
noisier, but my main beef is that initial bang. Overall, I'm OK with
it for the price difference.
Only other tips I have are that some models used to have and maybe
some still have the ability to remove the rubber guard ring. That's
good for when you want to clean it or drop something in to give your
hand more room. Old Insink had that, new one the rubber guard is not
removable. On WK, I'm not sure, I think it doesn't come out either.
I also noticed a difference in the quality of the finish on the stainless
ring that you see in the bottom of the sink. Some models, the ring
had a nicer, shinier finish, if that's a concern.
Robert Green
Dec 13, 2014, 12:13:19 PM12/13/14
to
"RobertMacy" <robert...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:op.xqr1tnog2cx0wh@ajm...
> The kitchen sink was not used very often, and the disposal not run for a
> while, suspect rusted 'solid'
I've had some luck with a spray rust penetrant (one of the new variations of
WD-40) and using a broom handle through the drain hole at an angle to try
rotating the blades. The handle gives a lot of leverage. I'd let the
penetrant soak as long as I could if you think it's "rust welded."
Reversing rotation direction with the broom handle might give you an idea if
there's something wedged into the blade assembly. It might move slightly in
one direction if there's a blockage. Use a broom or broom handle that's
expendable. They can snap in half if you've got good arm strength.
--
Bobby G.
news:op.xqr1tnog2cx0wh@ajm...
> The kitchen sink was not used very often, and the disposal not run for a
> while, suspect rusted 'solid'
WD-40) and using a broom handle through the drain hole at an angle to try
rotating the blades. The handle gives a lot of leverage. I'd let the
penetrant soak as long as I could if you think it's "rust welded."
Reversing rotation direction with the broom handle might give you an idea if
there's something wedged into the blade assembly. It might move slightly in
one direction if there's a blockage. Use a broom or broom handle that's
expendable. They can snap in half if you've got good arm strength.
--
Bobby G.
Mark Lloyd
Dec 13, 2014, 1:38:00 PM12/13/14
to
895 days?
--
12 days until the winter celebration (Thursday December 25, 2014
12:00:00 AM for 1 day).
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us
"All great ideas are dangerous." -- Oscar Wilde
bob_villa
Dec 13, 2014, 1:42:13 PM12/13/14
to
On Saturday, December 13, 2014 12:38:00 PM UTC-6, Mark Lloyd wrote:
> 8.5 years?
> 895 days?
Don't strain yourself...he already said 5 yrs!
> 8.5 years?
> 895 days?
Don't strain yourself...he already said 5 yrs!
Mark Lloyd
Dec 13, 2014, 1:48:44 PM12/13/14
to
The "BBC self installing keyboard assistant, Retail version" at
http://notstupid.us/pic.php/IMG_0766
micky
Dec 13, 2014, 7:59:22 PM12/13/14
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On Sat, 13 Dec 2014 09:20:27 -0700, RobertMacy <robert...@gmail.com>
wrote:
It might be that I'm a weakling, seriously. Although I don't think so,
I don't have any comparisons. Or that it's just hard to be outside the
cabinet reaching one's arms forward to lift. Or that I needed three
hands, Or that I was having a strangely hard time getting it in place
to twist it**, but the longer I was holding it up, the harder it got.
So I took a break for 10 minutes and told myself, Up and Twist, no
wasting time. But that didn't work either. So, the front half of
the jack went under the sink and I don't remember what I did with the
rear half. It rested on something or the middle of the jack rested on
the edge of the cabinet, and I balanced the disposal with one hand and
raised the jack with the other, and it was all very easy.
I may have done it one more time somewhere the same way, and again,
easy.
**even though I noitced which way the label pointed. Heck, maybe that
was my mistake, Maybe they had changed the position of the label, though
I don' tthink so.
wrote:
I don't have any comparisons. Or that it's just hard to be outside the
cabinet reaching one's arms forward to lift. Or that I needed three
hands, Or that I was having a strangely hard time getting it in place
to twist it**, but the longer I was holding it up, the harder it got.
So I took a break for 10 minutes and told myself, Up and Twist, no
wasting time. But that didn't work either. So, the front half of
the jack went under the sink and I don't remember what I did with the
rear half. It rested on something or the middle of the jack rested on
the edge of the cabinet, and I balanced the disposal with one hand and
raised the jack with the other, and it was all very easy.
I may have done it one more time somewhere the same way, and again,
easy.
**even though I noitced which way the label pointed. Heck, maybe that
was my mistake, Maybe they had changed the position of the label, though
I don' tthink so.
Todd
Dec 13, 2014, 9:15:35 PM12/13/14
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steel
RobertMacy
Dec 14, 2014, 10:34:12 AM12/14/14
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RobertMacy
Dec 14, 2014, 10:37:38 AM12/14/14
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On Sat, 13 Dec 2014 10:05:11 -0700, trader_4 <tra...@optonline.net> wrote:
> On Saturday, December 13, 2014 11:24:51 AM UTC-5, Robert Macy wrote:
>> ...snip....
> On Saturday, December 13, 2014 11:24:51 AM UTC-5, Robert Macy wrote:
> Since you're likely buying a new one, here's my 2 cents. I have
> an Insinkerator that's about 6 years old now, still working fine.
> I recently installed a WasteKing. They are made in USA, a lot cheaper.
> I paid around $95, the similar Insink would have cost twice that.
> WK has a lifetime warranty, in home, I believe. How good they are
> honoring it, IDK. I have to say the Insink is a lot quieter, both
> when running, but especially when it starts up. The WK has a loud,
> nasty bang when the blades move out, I guess. After that, it's still
> noisier, but my main beef is that initial bang. Overall, I'm OK with
> it for the price difference.
>
> Only other tips I have are that some models used to have and maybe
> some still have the ability to remove the rubber guard ring. That's
> good for when you want to clean it or drop something in to give your
> hand more room. Old Insink had that, new one the rubber guard is not
> removable. On WK, I'm not sure, I think it doesn't come out either.
> I also noticed a difference in the quality of the finish on the stainless
> ring that you see in the bottom of the sink. Some models, the ring
> had a nicer, shinier finish, if that's a concern.
Noise is an issue, expecially a 'bang' which comes under the heading of,
> an Insinkerator that's about 6 years old now, still working fine.
> I recently installed a WasteKing. They are made in USA, a lot cheaper.
> I paid around $95, the similar Insink would have cost twice that.
> WK has a lifetime warranty, in home, I believe. How good they are
> honoring it, IDK. I have to say the Insink is a lot quieter, both
> when running, but especially when it starts up. The WK has a loud,
> nasty bang when the blades move out, I guess. After that, it's still
> noisier, but my main beef is that initial bang. Overall, I'm OK with
> it for the price difference.
>
> Only other tips I have are that some models used to have and maybe
> some still have the ability to remove the rubber guard ring. That's
> good for when you want to clean it or drop something in to give your
> hand more room. Old Insink had that, new one the rubber guard is not
> removable. On WK, I'm not sure, I think it doesn't come out either.
> I also noticed a difference in the quality of the finish on the stainless
> ring that you see in the bottom of the sink. Some models, the ring
> had a nicer, shinier finish, if that's a concern.
"it just doesn't sound right."
Can't remember about the quality of SS finish. May bypass the whole
!@#$#@! thing. What do I need with a GD?
RobertMacy
Dec 14, 2014, 10:42:14 AM12/14/14
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On Sat, 13 Dec 2014 09:49:24 -0700, Robert Green
<robert_g...@yah00.com> wrote:
>> ....snip...
screwdriver shaft - not prying, but twisting.
I will look for this 'enhanced' WD-40
I used to use naptha and machine oil but that's a bit dangerous inside a
home.
<robert_g...@yah00.com> wrote:
>> ....snip...
> I've had some luck with a spray rust penetrant (one of the new
> variations of
> WD-40) and using a broom handle through the drain hole at an angle to try
> rotating the blades. The handle gives a lot of leverage. I'd let the
> penetrant soak as long as I could if you think it's "rust welded."
> Reversing rotation direction with the broom handle might give you an
> idea if
> there's something wedged into the blade assembly. It might move
> slightly in
> one direction if there's a blockage. Use a broom or broom handle that's
> expendable. They can snap in half if you've got good arm strength.
>
> --
> Bobby G.
Thanks for the tip. I actually have 'broken' two crescent wrenches and a
> variations of
> WD-40) and using a broom handle through the drain hole at an angle to try
> rotating the blades. The handle gives a lot of leverage. I'd let the
> penetrant soak as long as I could if you think it's "rust welded."
> Reversing rotation direction with the broom handle might give you an
> idea if
> there's something wedged into the blade assembly. It might move
> slightly in
> one direction if there's a blockage. Use a broom or broom handle that's
> expendable. They can snap in half if you've got good arm strength.
>
> --
> Bobby G.
screwdriver shaft - not prying, but twisting.
I will look for this 'enhanced' WD-40
I used to use naptha and machine oil but that's a bit dangerous inside a
home.
Mark Lloyd
Dec 14, 2014, 2:19:42 PM12/14/14
to
thread.
--
11 days until the winter celebration (Thursday December 25, 2014
"A polar bear is a rectangular bear after a coordinate transform."
trader_4
Dec 14, 2014, 5:01:55 PM12/14/14
to
the blades flying out, maybe more slop in them than Insinkerator, etc.
It doesn't seem like it would be a hard thing to do. But there is definitely
a lot more noise, at least some of the time, when it starts up. I think
if there is some decent amount of stuff already in it, then it's notieceably
less. But if it's empty, there is definitely enough of a bang when it
starts that you take notice. If that's unacceptable, then Insink is the
way to go, at the additional cost. Unless WK has gotten quieter in the
last couple of years....
Ashton Crusher
Dec 14, 2014, 6:22:06 PM12/14/14
to
out or water getting to the motor bearings and seizing them up. I've
never had the cutters go bad before something else did in MY personal
house but I have had renters that let crap fall in and destroy the
grinding mechanism parts.
Robert Green
Dec 14, 2014, 9:30:31 PM12/14/14
to
"RobertMacy" <robert...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:op.xqu7b5h82cx0wh@ajm...
> <robert_g...@yah00.com> wrote:
....snip...
> > I've had some luck with a spray rust penetrant (one of the new
variations of
> > WD-40) and using a broom handle through the drain hole at an angle to
try
> > rotating the blades. The handle gives a lot of leverage.
<stuff snipped>
....snip...
> > I've had some luck with a spray rust penetrant (one of the new
variations of
> > WD-40) and using a broom handle through the drain hole at an angle to
try
> > rotating the blades. The handle gives a lot of leverage.
> Thanks for the tip. I actually have 'broken' two crescent wrenches and a
> screwdriver shaft - not prying, but twisting.
slight wiggle in at least one direction if jammed but none if fused by rust.
I have managed to move the stuck cutter head with a broomstick when the
little wrench did nothing - just not enough leverage.
> I will look for this 'enhanced' WD-40
characters causes at least *someone* to go into a titter. (-"
> I used to use naptha and machine oil but that's a bit dangerous inside a
> home.
sure to disconnect the GD if the penetrating spray fails before running any
water through it to keep the goop out of the septic tank. If the spray
manages to free it, you could disconnect it from the waste pipe and flush it
into a bucket but I suspect that's not going to be a problem. Based on what
you've tried, it sounds stuck tight.
When these suckers freeze, they usually stay frozen. Even worse I've had
one apart, oiled and cleaned everything and two weeks later it seized again.
We live without one now and hardly miss it. There's enough crap that goes
into the public waste water - they don't need ours, too. It was nasty
enough work that I would just replace one that was more than a few years old
if we still used one.
Not as bad as the weekend I spent disassembling a GF's washing machine to
uncoil some pantyhose that had been sucked into the impeller and stretched
to about 30' wrapped around the impeller shaft. Got it working and when I
came by later in the week, it was gone and she had bought and installed a
new machine. I guess she had no confidence in the machine anymore since
some stray grease got unto one of her white blouses after the very nasty
repair. (-:
--
Bobby G.
Todd
Dec 14, 2014, 11:42:03 PM12/14/14
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On 12/14/2014 07:39 AM, RobertMacy wrote:
> May bypass the whole !@#$#@! thing. What do I need with a GD?
What will the neighbors think ?!?!?!?!
> May bypass the whole !@#$#@! thing. What do I need with a GD?
What would *we* think ?!?!?!?!
Okay, okay, I never use my disposal either. It
would be one less piece of crap to have to maintain.
N8N
Dec 15, 2014, 10:41:39 AM12/15/14
to
On Friday, December 12, 2014 5:50:19 PM UTC-5, Robert Macy wrote:
> Have an Insinkerator(sp?) garbage disposal unit in the kitchen.
>
> Badger 1-83A with a power cord.
> Have an Insinkerator(sp?) garbage disposal unit in the kitchen.
>
>
> The kitchen sink was not used very often, and the disposal not run for a
> while, suspect rusted 'solid'
>
> Called 800 558 5700 and was told the wrench should enable to unstick [it
> The kitchen sink was not used very often, and the disposal not run for a
> while, suspect rusted 'solid'
>
> did not] and don't recommend using any chemicals. Probably have to
> replace. Ok, so if I have to replace what do I lose by simply trying
> chemicals?
>
> Does anybody know some way to unstick this thing?
>
> maybe muriatic acid to eat rust, or Whink, HF acid, or ?? I tried
> lengthening the short 1/4 inch allen wrench to about a foot, but still
> solid.
>
> Any ideas? I even tried the 800 ft-lb 'hammer wrench' feature of
> Rockewell's 3Rill drill to no avail. May have started to strip the allen
> wrench hole, though.
The last time I was confronted with this situation I went to remove the GD (because there was actual waste backing up in it so it was easier to put a big storage tote underneath it and drop it) and when I got it out I found that it had rusted through to the motor and actually was leaking water into the cord connection compartment :/ A new GD was the fix...
nate
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