Efficient priming technique for tongue and groove siding
Mike Lacy
sides before installing it. I'm painting, not staining it (latex), so
I don't imagine any kind of dipping scheme would work. The groove is
about 1/4", so it really takes some scrubbing to get primer into the
groove. Any suggestions for technique, etc. for being efficient in
painting this material. A painter friend advises again spraying due to
anticipated issues with drips clogging up the groove. Perhaps
something other than a conventional brush? Perhaps priming the groove
is not really necessary? FWIW, the material is pine.
Regards, Mike
RicodJour
It's most important to prime where you can't see it. That's where you
need the protection.
Paint the groove first - the rest is easy. Stand a number of pieces
up on edge on some saw horses with the grooves facing up, and clamp
them together so they stay standing up. Then paint the grooves,
unclamp, lay the boards and paint as usual.
R
Norminn
of painting, I'd also thin the primer up to the label max. That will
help get it into the groove and sink around all the un-smooth wood
grain. I think the best way to keep water out is to also be meticulous
in putting on some paintable caulk. Boards vert or horiz?
Mike Lacy
Thanks for the ideas; clamping sounds like a great idea. Should
permit liberal use of paint without dripping on faces etc. Boards are
to be installed horizontally.
Regards, Mike
RicodJour
> On Oct 9, 6:26 am, Norminn <norm...@earthlink.net> wrote:
> > On 10/9/2011 12:19 AM, RicodJour wrote:
> > > On Oct 8, 11:40 pm, Mike Lacy<mgl...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > >> I'm in the process of priming some 1X4 tongue and groove siding on all
> > >> sides before installing it. I'm painting, not staining it (latex), so
> > >> I don't imagine any kind of dipping scheme would work. The groove is
> > >> about 1/4", so it really takes some scrubbing to get primer into the
> > >> groove. Any suggestions for technique, etc. for being efficient in
> > >> painting this material. A painter friend advises again spraying due to
> > >> anticipated issues with drips clogging up the groove. Perhaps
> > >> something other than a conventional brush? Perhaps priming the groove
> > >> is not really necessary? FWIW, the material is pine.
>
> > > It's most important to prime where you can't see it. That's where you
> > > need the protection.
>
> > > Paint the groove first - the rest is easy. Stand a number of pieces
> > > up on edge on some saw horses with the grooves facing up, and clamp
> > > them together so they stay standing up. Then paint the grooves,
> > > unclamp, lay the boards and paint as usual.
>
> > of painting, I'd also thin the primer up to the label max. That will
> > help get it into the groove and sink around all the un-smooth wood
> > grain. I think the best way to keep water out is to also be meticulous
> > in putting on some paintable caulk. Boards vert or horiz?
Primer is pretty thin to start with. Adding more moisture will raise
the grain of the wood with little to show for it.
> Thanks for the ideas; clamping sounds like a great idea. Should
> permit liberal use of paint without dripping on faces etc. Boards are
> to be installed horizontally.
You could also use a small bucket with a narrow spout to pour the
primer into the groove. If one end were higher than the other the
primer would run down and help distribute itself. You'd still have to
brush the stuff in. And don't try to do to many boards at once. If
you let the primer run between the clamped board and dry, you'll have
added roughness on the visible faces, and that's much less fun to deal
with. Eight boards at a time on a 3' wide sawhorse is about right.
That'll let you lay them down flat and roll out the faces right after
you do the groove.
R
Evan
It sounds to me like your painter friend doesn't know how to use
a paint sprayer properly... If you are trying to cover some surface
with a paint sprayer so it looks right in one coat, you don't know
what you are doing and shouldn't be using a paint sprayer at all...
My opinion is that standing the boards so the grooves are exposed
and then applying a couple of light coats with a paint sprayer would
be less laborious than any other method of pre-priming all six sides
of the T&G siding boards...
Cliff Hartle
>It sounds to me like your painter friend doesn't know how to use
>a paint sprayer properly... If you are trying to cover some surface
>with a paint sprayer so it looks right in one coat, you don't know
>what you are doing and shouldn't be using a paint sprayer at all...
>My opinion is that standing the boards so the grooves are exposed
>and then applying a couple of light coats with a paint sprayer would
>be less laborious than any other method of pre-priming all six sides
>of the T&G siding boards...
I would clamp them, put them on their sides, spay them and then take a brush
and give it a quick brush.
If you do stand them up realize that the tounges don't bottom out in the
groove so any paint that may settle in the grooves shouldn't be that big an
issue unless there is a ton.
RicodJour
Paint manufacturers typically specify backrolling paint if it's
sprayed on bare wood siding. Spray coats just fine, but it doesn't
have the pressure to penetrate the pores that a brush or roller
develops.
Spraying is definitely easier, but not always better.
R
tb...@bellsouth.net
films build to the point the pieces don't fit easily.
T
RicodJour
>
> You might want to test a few pieces to find whether or not the paint
> films build to the point the pieces don't fit easily.
Hey Tom. Long time no see. What have you been up to?
R
bob haller
I wonder if staining would provide a good prime surface. never heard
of anyone doing this just wondering?
RicodJour
>
> I wonder if staining would provide a good prime surface. never heard
> of anyone doing this just wondering?
There are different types of stain, but the two basic types used on
decks, for instance, would probably either not seal the wood and bind
the grain or not provide as strong of a long term bond coat for the
paint to follow. Then there's also the possibility that the stain
would bleed through the paint.
It might work, but I'm guessing it's an uphill battle for those
reasons.
R