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Using Extension Cord with Freezer
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ni...@nowhere.com
Sep 20, 2008, 11:55:14 PM9/20/08
to
Hello,
I just purchased a 7 CFT Magic Chef Freezer from the Home
Depot. The place that I want to place it is about 6 feet from the
nearest electrical outlet. Reading the manual it states not to use
extension cords of any kind. Is the reason they put this on for fear
the consumer will try to use a standard electric cord and cause a fire
or is it something else? I plan on getting a 15A with a 14 gauge or 12
gauge wire. The line that it is attached to goes to a 15 amp circuit
and seeing that it hasn't tripped he line while it is running I should
be ok. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Nick
hr(bob) hofmann@att.net
Sep 21, 2008, 12:04:24 AM9/21/08
to
Yeah - They're worried you would use a lamp cord type extension cord,
or one of those kight-weight orange or green outdoor extension cords
that are fine for small leafb;lowers, but not much else. If you gat
an extension cord with 14 ga wire, it should be ok, a 12 gauge wire
would be better. If it is only 10 feet or so long, it is not any
different than if the freezer was on a circuit that was 10 ft feet
farther from the circuit breaker or fuse box. Make sure the prongs
and the female end of the extension cord are secure, ir, the mating
plugs are making good contact to eliinate any overrrrrheating at the
plug-in points. Then check it out once in a while to see that things
are still fine.
Good idea to ask, you are on the right track.
Bob Hofmann
ransley
Sep 21, 2008, 12:12:49 AM9/21/08
to
On Sep 20, 10:55 pm, n...@nowhere.com wrote:
7 cu ft, what does it pull 100 watts? Likely only 100- 150, Gee maybe
20 ga would work.
Red Green
Sep 21, 2008, 12:56:48 AM9/21/08
to
ni...@nowhere.com wrote in
news:l4hbd4l87ucd5rotr...@4ax.com:
news:l4hbd4l87ucd5rotr...@4ax.com:
Just get an AC extension cord. Not sure if this is in a garage or
basement but they come in short lengths and have flat wire and 90 degree
male ends which would help neaten things up if that's desired.
Kevin Ricks
Sep 21, 2008, 1:07:56 AM9/21/08
to
Long and/or small gauge extension cords will have more resistance which
will lower the voltage. Lower voltage will increase the current and
overheat the compressor motor and over time cause a premature failure.
Fire is a possibility but MC is probably more worried about a warranty
return.
Kevin
RBM
Sep 21, 2008, 7:50:09 AM9/21/08
to
<ni...@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:l4hbd4l87ucd5rotr...@4ax.com...
Keep the cord as short as possible, with conductors equal to or larger than
the circuit conductors. Appliance extension cords are made in lengths up to
9'
Edwin Pawlowski
Sep 21, 2008, 8:50:22 AM9/21/08
to
My freezer has been on an extension cord for 27 years now. It is, though, a
heavy duty one that can handle the load. Use a short cord designed for air
condition use and you are OK. They want to avoid people using the wimpy lamp
cord.
ni...@nowhere.com
Sep 21, 2008, 9:09:38 AM9/21/08
to
Thanks for everyone's advice. I'll check what they have at the Home
Depot today.
Nick
Joe
Sep 21, 2008, 9:42:52 AM9/21/08
to
On Sep 20, 10:55 pm, n...@nowhere.com wrote:
>snip<
If this is a permanent location, consider adding a new outlet via
surface mounted Wiremold from the old outlet. It will be tidy, neat
and safe and meet whatever code requirements exist in your area.
Wiremold is quite easy to work with, and total cost will be in the
ballpark with a decent extension cord. HTH
Joe
JohnR66
Sep 21, 2008, 10:10:38 AM9/21/08
to
"ransley" <Mark_R...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:56265778-e5f0-4573...@k13g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
news:56265778-e5f0-4573...@k13g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
Right on. My top freezer, frost free frig draws only 75 watts during normal
operation.
Starting the compressor motor is another issue.
I'm sure the manufacturer is concend that a low line voltage condition plus
a long extension cord could eventually burn the motor.
Even though my fridge uses 75 watts, the starting current is 7.5 amps.
Boden
Sep 21, 2008, 10:53:20 AM9/21/08
to
heating. The bigger worry is accidental disconnection. Use a new
extension cord of the needed length and put a bit of duct tape around
the connection between the refrigerator plug and the extension cord
receptacle.
Steve Barker DLT
Sep 21, 2008, 11:34:09 PM9/21/08
to
They make a regular 'appliance' extension cord. They are 12ga.
s
<ni...@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:l4hbd4l87ucd5rotr...@4ax.com...
SteveB
Sep 22, 2008, 1:56:00 AM9/22/08
to
"Steve Barker DLT" <railph...@always.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:aIednWJ9rpevj0rV...@giganews.com...
> They make a regular 'appliance' extension cord. They are 12ga.
>
> s
I like those that have the 90 degree socket and are flat. I gaffer taped
one down on my garage floor five years ago, and the gaffer's tape is still
good. I wish duct tape was that good.
Steve
Phisherman
Sep 22, 2008, 1:01:43 PM9/22/08
to
Install another outlet. Extension cords are intended for temporary
use only.
Uncle Monster
Sep 22, 2008, 3:30:01 PM9/22/08
to
The only thing I would worry about would
be the ends of the cords getting wet and
corroding. A lot of freezers are in places
that may get wet like a garage or basement.
I would strap the extension cord to the
wall to keep the plug and socket off the
floor.
[8~{} Uncle Monster
Red Green
Sep 22, 2008, 9:53:38 PM9/22/08
to
aemeijers
Sep 22, 2008, 11:01:17 PM9/22/08
to
starts to look like a permanent installation, which is a no-no in most
places. If the area is damp, I would run another outlet. If pretty isn't
a concern, wiremold is a valid and cheap option.
--
aem sends...
Uncle Monster
Sep 23, 2008, 10:22:29 AM9/23/08
to
I've run a lot of Wiremold in both metal
and plastic. I prefer the metal for power
because most of what I do is commercial.
The homeowner could put a plastic Wiremold
box extension over the existing outlet
box and run Romex inside the plastic channel
to a surface mount receptacle box and have
a neat installation. I wouldn't cable tie
the extension cord to nails when one hole
straps are readily available, that's silly.
[8~{} Uncle Monster
Dennis Osgood
Jun 23, 2015, 9:44:04 AM6/23/15
to
replying to hr(bob) hof...@att.net, Dennis Osgood wrote:
I had an 11,000 BTU window air conditioner hooked to a 100 ft extension
cord because I needed an additional 4-5 feet of cord. The a/c was not
working well at all. An electrician told me that the extension cord was
the problem. Get rid of the cord (or shorten it considerably to only what
I needed) and it will work. I did, and it worked great.
Just last week my daughter said that her new freezer was not freezing --
her food was thawed out but still cold enough to cook. I looked at the
freezer and her husband had hooked a 100 ft extension cord to the freezer
because the freezer cord was 2 ft too short. I remembered what the
electrician said about my a/c unit, and we moved the freezer to a new
outlet. The food was frozen in just a few hours.
I have read many articles both pro and con about voltage drops in
extension cords. Apparently not everyone agrees with the established
theories of electrical engineering. The electrician never did tell me why
the extension cord was the problem. All I know is that removing the
extension cord caused both the a/c and the freezer to work well.
--
> hrhofmann wrote:
>
> Yeah - They're worried you would use a lamp cord type extension cord,
> or one of those kight-weight orange or green outdoor extension cords
> that are fine for small leafb;lowers, but not much else. If you gat
> an extension cord with 14 ga wire, it should be ok, a 12 gauge wire
> would be better. If it is only 10 feet or so long, it is not any
> different than if the freezer was on a circuit that was 10 ft feet
> farther from the circuit breaker or fuse box. Make sure the prongs
> and the female end of the extension cord are secure, ir, the mating
> plugs are making good contact to eliinate any overrrrrheating at the
> plug-in points. Then check it out once in a while to see that things
> are still fine.
> Good idea to ask, you are on the right track.
> B..ob Hofmann
>
> Yeah - They're worried you would use a lamp cord type extension cord,
> or one of those kight-weight orange or green outdoor extension cords
> that are fine for small leafb;lowers, but not much else. If you gat
> an extension cord with 14 ga wire, it should be ok, a 12 gauge wire
> would be better. If it is only 10 feet or so long, it is not any
> different than if the freezer was on a circuit that was 10 ft feet
> farther from the circuit breaker or fuse box. Make sure the prongs
> and the female end of the extension cord are secure, ir, the mating
> plugs are making good contact to eliinate any overrrrrheating at the
> plug-in points. Then check it out once in a while to see that things
> are still fine.
> Good idea to ask, you are on the right track.
I had an 11,000 BTU window air conditioner hooked to a 100 ft extension
cord because I needed an additional 4-5 feet of cord. The a/c was not
working well at all. An electrician told me that the extension cord was
the problem. Get rid of the cord (or shorten it considerably to only what
I needed) and it will work. I did, and it worked great.
Just last week my daughter said that her new freezer was not freezing --
her food was thawed out but still cold enough to cook. I looked at the
freezer and her husband had hooked a 100 ft extension cord to the freezer
because the freezer cord was 2 ft too short. I remembered what the
electrician said about my a/c unit, and we moved the freezer to a new
outlet. The food was frozen in just a few hours.
I have read many articles both pro and con about voltage drops in
extension cords. Apparently not everyone agrees with the established
theories of electrical engineering. The electrician never did tell me why
the extension cord was the problem. All I know is that removing the
extension cord caused both the a/c and the freezer to work well.
--
trader_4
Jun 23, 2015, 9:54:50 AM6/23/15
to
to be sized for the load. An 11,000 BTU AC is a large load. It
also has a large initial startup current. That current over a
100 ft 16 gauge extension has considerable voltage drop. If the
extension cord was 10 or 12 gauge, it would work, but it's still
not advisable. The issue should be much less with a modern fridge
or freezer. They typically only pull ~90W or so. Bottom line you
want to use a short extension cord that is heavy enough for the load.
ItsJoanNotJoann
Jun 23, 2015, 11:11:21 AM6/23/15
to
On Tuesday, June 23, 2015 at 8:44:04 AM UTC-5, Dennis Osgood wrote:
>
> replying to hr(bob) hof...@att.net, Dennis Osgood wrote:
> > hrhofmann wrote:
> >
You think old Bob will show up to read your reply to
>
> replying to hr(bob) hof...@att.net, Dennis Osgood wrote:
> > hrhofmann wrote:
> >
his SEVEN YEAR OLD post????
Ed Pawlowski
Jun 23, 2015, 11:55:22 AM6/23/15
to
On 6/23/2015 9:44 AM, Dennis Osgood wrote:
> I have read many articles both pro and con about voltage drops in
> extension cords. Apparently not everyone agrees with the established
> theories of electrical engineering. The electrician never did tell me why
> the extension cord was the problem. All I know is that removing the
> extension cord caused both the a/c and the freezer to work well.
>
The size of the wire is more important than the length. If you used a
> I have read many articles both pro and con about voltage drops in
> extension cords. Apparently not everyone agrees with the established
> theories of electrical engineering. The electrician never did tell me why
> the extension cord was the problem. All I know is that removing the
> extension cord caused both the a/c and the freezer to work well.
>
3' cord with 18 gauge wire it would be more of a problem than 100 foot
cord with #10 wire. Think of the wire as a pipe. You can only get so
much juice through it so bigger is better.
Oren
Jun 23, 2015, 12:19:59 PM6/23/15
to
Tony Hwang
Jun 23, 2015, 1:55:07 PM6/23/15
to
Dennis Osgood wrote:
> replying to hr(bob) hof...@att.net, Dennis Osgood wrote:> outlet. The food was frozen in just a few hours.
proper size(capacity to carry the current without too much voltage drop)
There shouldn't be a problem. a/c or freezer has motor which draws peak
current when it starts due to it's characteristics of inductive load)
Undersized cord is even fire hazard.
> replying to hr(bob) hof...@att.net, Dennis Osgood wrote:> outlet. The food was frozen in just a few hours.
>
> I have read many articles both pro and con about voltage drops in
> extension cords. Apparently not everyone agrees with the established
> theories of electrical engineering. The electrician never did tell me why
> the extension cord was the problem. All I know is that removing the
> extension cord caused both the a/c and the freezer to work well.
>
Ohm's law is very simple to understand. If you used extension cord of
> I have read many articles both pro and con about voltage drops in
> extension cords. Apparently not everyone agrees with the established
> theories of electrical engineering. The electrician never did tell me why
> the extension cord was the problem. All I know is that removing the
> extension cord caused both the a/c and the freezer to work well.
>
proper size(capacity to carry the current without too much voltage drop)
There shouldn't be a problem. a/c or freezer has motor which draws peak
current when it starts due to it's characteristics of inductive load)
Undersized cord is even fire hazard.
Stormin Mormon
Jun 23, 2015, 2:15:37 PM6/23/15
to
On 6/23/2015 1:55 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:
> Ohm's law is very simple to understand. If you used extension cord of
> proper size(capacity to carry the current without too much voltage drop)
> There shouldn't be a problem. a/c or freezer has motor which draws peak
> current when it starts due to it's characteristics of inductive load)
> Undersized cord is even fire hazard.
Wonderful! I've got a compressor that dosn't run on
> Ohm's law is very simple to understand. If you used extension cord of
> proper size(capacity to carry the current without too much voltage drop)
> There shouldn't be a problem. a/c or freezer has motor which draws peak
> current when it starts due to it's characteristics of inductive load)
> Undersized cord is even fire hazard.
the extension cord. I've been waiting for someone to
use ohms law and help me understand.
You da man!
-
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.
Ed Pawlowski
Jun 23, 2015, 2:27:50 PM6/23/15
to
On 6/23/2015 1:55 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:
> Ohm's law is very simple to understand. If you used extension cord of
> proper size(capacity to carry the current without too much voltage drop)
> There shouldn't be a problem. a/c or freezer has motor which draws peak
> current when it starts due to it's characteristics of inductive load)
> Undersized cord is even fire hazard.
Ohm's law states that the current through a conductor between two points
> proper size(capacity to carry the current without too much voltage drop)
> There shouldn't be a problem. a/c or freezer has motor which draws peak
> current when it starts due to it's characteristics of inductive load)
> Undersized cord is even fire hazard.
is directly proportional to the potential difference across the two
points. Introducing the constant of proportionality, the resistance, one
arrives at the usual mathematical equation that describes this relationship
taxed and spent
Jun 23, 2015, 2:30:51 PM6/23/15
to
"Ed Pawlowski" <e...@snet.net> wrote in message
news:HISdnRzsJsS-OBTI...@giganews.com...
law?
ItsJoanNotJoann
Jun 23, 2015, 4:07:15 PM6/23/15
to
Oren
Jun 23, 2015, 4:21:44 PM6/23/15
to
On Tue, 23 Jun 2015 13:07:11 -0700 (PDT), ItsJoanNotJoann
<itsjoan...@webtv.net> wrote:
>On Tuesday, June 23, 2015 at 11:19:59 AM UTC-5, Oren wrote:
>>
>> On Tue, 23 Jun 2015 08:11:18 -0700 (PDT), ItsJoanNotJoann
>> <itsjoan...@webtv.net> wrote:
>>
>> >> >
>> >You think old Bob will show up to read your reply to
>> >his SEVEN YEAR OLD post????
>> >
>>
>> Why not? Robert is still posting here, right?
>>
>>
>Not unless he's posting under another name, he's not.
Prove it.
>On Tuesday, June 23, 2015 at 11:19:59 AM UTC-5, Oren wrote:
>>
>> On Tue, 23 Jun 2015 08:11:18 -0700 (PDT), ItsJoanNotJoann
>> <itsjoan...@webtv.net> wrote:
>>
>> >> >
>> >You think old Bob will show up to read your reply to
>> >his SEVEN YEAR OLD post????
>> >
>>
>> Why not? Robert is still posting here, right?
>>
>>
>Not unless he's posting under another name, he's not.
Tony Hwang
Jun 23, 2015, 4:38:24 PM6/23/15
to
Tony Hwang
Jun 23, 2015, 4:42:19 PM6/23/15
to
resistance. With AC circuit it has to deal with resistance and
reactance by inductor and/or capacitor. Unit of conductaance(vs. R)
is Mho, Admittance is Y(vs. Z)
tony944
Jun 23, 2015, 4:59:38 PM6/23/15
to
"trader_4" wrote in message
news:5280107c-a812-46e7...@googlegroups.com...
>
> I have read many articles both pro and con about voltage drops in
> extension cords. Apparently not everyone agrees with the established
> theories of electrical engineering. The electrician never did tell me why
> the extension cord was the problem. All I know is that removing the
> extension cord caused both the a/c and the freezer to work well.
>
> --
You've identified the problem, voltage drop. The conductors have
to be sized for the load. An 11,000 BTU AC is a large load. It
also has a large initial startup current. That current over a
100 ft 16 gauge extension has considerable voltage drop. If the
extension cord was 10 or 12 gauge, it would work, but it's still
not advisable. The issue should be much less with a modern fridge
or freezer. They typically only pull ~90W or so. Bottom line you
want to use a short extension cord that is heavy enough for the load.
90 watts where the heck did you get that info.
> I have read many articles both pro and con about voltage drops in
> extension cords. Apparently not everyone agrees with the established
> theories of electrical engineering. The electrician never did tell me why
> the extension cord was the problem. All I know is that removing the
> extension cord caused both the a/c and the freezer to work well.
>
> --
You've identified the problem, voltage drop. The conductors have
to be sized for the load. An 11,000 BTU AC is a large load. It
also has a large initial startup current. That current over a
100 ft 16 gauge extension has considerable voltage drop. If the
extension cord was 10 or 12 gauge, it would work, but it's still
not advisable. The issue should be much less with a modern fridge
or freezer. They typically only pull ~90W or so. Bottom line you
want to use a short extension cord that is heavy enough for the load.
Must efficient unit will draw about 10 Amps. that mean 1200 watts
on 120 volts. for AC unit #14 wire with max length of 10 feet above
that length you should and must go #12 wire. service for apx. 50 feet
if you run any AC on cord and wire or receptacle is getting warm
consider safety and install larger supply "IT is a must"
taxed and spent
Jun 23, 2015, 5:01:15 PM6/23/15
to
"Tony Hwang" <drag...@shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:_sjix.21412$Hs4....@fx03.iad...
don't need to "introduce" resistance to a law that already includes
resistance.
Ralph Mowery
Jun 23, 2015, 5:19:37 PM6/23/15
to
"tony944" <to...@seput.com> wrote in message
news:OqWdnUSZRJorVRTI...@giganews.com...
>
>> not advisable. The issue should be much less with a modern fridge
>> or freezer. They typically only pull ~90W or so. Bottom line you
>> want to use a short extension cord that is heavy enough for the load.
>>
> 90 watts where the heck did you get that info.
> Must efficient unit will draw about 10 Amps. that mean 1200 watts
> on 120 volts. for AC unit #14 wire with max length of 10 feet above
> that length you should and must go #12 wire. service for apx. 50 feet
> if you run any AC on cord and wire or receptacle is getting warm
> consider safety and install larger supply "IT is a must"
I think that 90 watts is for a modern refrigerator.
>> not advisable. The issue should be much less with a modern fridge
>> or freezer. They typically only pull ~90W or so. Bottom line you
>> want to use a short extension cord that is heavy enough for the load.
>>
> 90 watts where the heck did you get that info.
> Must efficient unit will draw about 10 Amps. that mean 1200 watts
> on 120 volts. for AC unit #14 wire with max length of 10 feet above
> that length you should and must go #12 wire. service for apx. 50 feet
> if you run any AC on cord and wire or receptacle is getting warm
> consider safety and install larger supply "IT is a must"
I think we all agree that extension cords are ok, but they should be made
out of wire that is large enough so the voltage drop is very low. The
longer the cord, the larger the wire.
Wire less than about # 14 should not be used on high current loads at any
length.
trader_4
Jun 23, 2015, 5:48:09 PM6/23/15
to
and freezers made in the last decade or so consume.
> Must efficient unit will draw about 10 Amps. that mean 1200 watts
> on 120 volts.
pulls 90W and that an 11,000 BTU AC is a "large load".
Ed Pawlowski
Jun 23, 2015, 6:30:08 PM6/23/15
to
On 6/23/2015 5:19 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
>
> I think that 90 watts is for a modern refrigerator.
>
> I think we all agree that extension cords are ok, but they should be made
> out of wire that is large enough so the voltage drop is very low. The
> longer the cord, the larger the wire.
> Wire less than about # 14 should not be used on high current loads at any
> length.
>
90W is for a very old fridge. I just looked at the specs of a 33 cu ft
>
> I think that 90 watts is for a modern refrigerator.
>
> I think we all agree that extension cords are ok, but they should be made
> out of wire that is large enough so the voltage drop is very low. The
> longer the cord, the larger the wire.
> Wire less than about # 14 should not be used on high current loads at any
> length.
>
side by side and it is 8.5A an 18 cu ft top freezer was 6A
trader_4
Jun 23, 2015, 6:37:55 PM6/23/15
to
went way down. I replaced my 20 year old one that was using about
250W with a side by side that's bigger, think it's 31 cu ft, the new
one uses 90W. The 8.5A that you're looking at may be the max,
instantaneous startup current. I've looked at a new freezer too
during Sandy with my KillaWatt meter. It pulled ~350 W for a few
seconds, then quickly started declining. After a couple mins, it
was down to ~100W.
trader_4
Jun 23, 2015, 6:52:10 PM6/23/15
to
heater that only comes on once a day? That would give you a 1000W heater, which seems reasonable.
Uncle Monster
Jun 23, 2015, 8:12:50 PM6/23/15
to
On Sunday, September 21, 2008 at 6:50:09 AM UTC-5, RBM wrote:
> <ni...@nowhere.com> wrote in message
> news:l4hbd4l87ucd5rotr...@4ax.com...
> <ni...@nowhere.com> wrote in message
> news:l4hbd4l87ucd5rotr...@4ax.com...
> > Hello,
> >
> > I just purchased a 7 CFT Magic Chef Freezer from the Home
> > Depot. The place that I want to place it is about 6 feet from the
> > nearest electrical outlet. Reading the manual it states not to use
> > extension cords of any kind. Is the reason they put this on for fear
> > the consumer will try to use a standard electric cord and cause a fire
> > or is it something else? I plan on getting a 15A with a 14 gauge or 12
> > gauge wire. The line that it is attached to goes to a 15 amp circuit
> > and seeing that it hasn't tripped he line while it is running I should
> > be ok. Any help would be appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Nick
>
> >
> > I just purchased a 7 CFT Magic Chef Freezer from the Home
> > Depot. The place that I want to place it is about 6 feet from the
> > nearest electrical outlet. Reading the manual it states not to use
> > extension cords of any kind. Is the reason they put this on for fear
> > the consumer will try to use a standard electric cord and cause a fire
> > or is it something else? I plan on getting a 15A with a 14 gauge or 12
> > gauge wire. The line that it is attached to goes to a 15 amp circuit
> > and seeing that it hasn't tripped he line while it is running I should
> > be ok. Any help would be appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Nick
>
> Keep the cord as short as possible, with conductors equal to or larger than
> the circuit conductors. Appliance extension cords are made in lengths up to
> 9'
What he said. The big box stores have them. ^_^
> the circuit conductors. Appliance extension cords are made in lengths up to
> 9'
[8~{} Uncle Extension Monster
Uncle Monster
Jun 23, 2015, 8:57:05 PM6/23/15
to
On Saturday, September 20, 2008 at 11:12:49 PM UTC-5, ransley wrote:
> 20 ga would work.
It's not the running current draw that's of concern, it's LRA or locked rotor amps which is the current the compressor will pull when the system pressure is not equalized and the compressor can't start. If the power blinks or you flipped a breaker on and off for the freezer circuit, you'll hear a hum and a click coming from the freezer which is the high temperature and overload switch inside the compressor snapping off. Many overload switches are inside the terminal cover of small compressors and can be replaced if the contacts erode away. The overload may click several times before the compressor will restart. The LRA for a typical large chest freezer can be 12 amps or more. The electrical specifications for voltage, RLA (run load amps) and LRA (locked rotor amps) are on a sticker that has the model number printed on it which is located inside or outside of the freezer. ^_^
[8~{} Uncle Frozen Monster
> On Sep 20, 10:55 pm, n...@nowhere.com wrote:
> > Hello,
> >
> > I just purchased a 7 CFT Magic Chef Freezer from the Home
> > Depot. The place that I want to place it is about 6 feet from the
> > nearest electrical outlet. Reading the manual it states not to use
> > extension cords of any kind. Is the reason they put this on for fear
> > the consumer will try to use a standard electric cord and cause a fire
> > or is it something else? I plan on getting a 15A with a 14 gauge or 12
> > gauge wire. The line that it is attached to goes to a 15 amp circuit
> > and seeing that it hasn't tripped he line while it is running I should
> > be ok. Any help would be appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Nick
>
> 7 cu ft, what does it pull 100 watts? Likely only 100- 150, Gee maybe
> > Hello,
> >
> > I just purchased a 7 CFT Magic Chef Freezer from the Home
> > Depot. The place that I want to place it is about 6 feet from the
> > nearest electrical outlet. Reading the manual it states not to use
> > extension cords of any kind. Is the reason they put this on for fear
> > the consumer will try to use a standard electric cord and cause a fire
> > or is it something else? I plan on getting a 15A with a 14 gauge or 12
> > gauge wire. The line that it is attached to goes to a 15 amp circuit
> > and seeing that it hasn't tripped he line while it is running I should
> > be ok. Any help would be appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Nick
>
> 20 ga would work.
It's not the running current draw that's of concern, it's LRA or locked rotor amps which is the current the compressor will pull when the system pressure is not equalized and the compressor can't start. If the power blinks or you flipped a breaker on and off for the freezer circuit, you'll hear a hum and a click coming from the freezer which is the high temperature and overload switch inside the compressor snapping off. Many overload switches are inside the terminal cover of small compressors and can be replaced if the contacts erode away. The overload may click several times before the compressor will restart. The LRA for a typical large chest freezer can be 12 amps or more. The electrical specifications for voltage, RLA (run load amps) and LRA (locked rotor amps) are on a sticker that has the model number printed on it which is located inside or outside of the freezer. ^_^
[8~{} Uncle Frozen Monster
Uncle Monster
Jun 23, 2015, 9:01:29 PM6/23/15
to
[8~{} Uncle Time Traveling Monster
ItsJoanNotJoann
Jun 23, 2015, 10:05:06 PM6/23/15
to
ago and there is NOTHING from him since using this particular
name. He might well still be posting but under another name.
hrho...@sbcglobal.net
Jun 23, 2015, 11:01:05 PM6/23/15
to
H. R. (Bob) Hofmann at att.net is alive and thriving on this group. My advice in 2008 is still good, and it's great to read that someone read my post and it actually worked out well for them.
Now, my current project is planning on putting ceramic tile down on a small full bathroom floor, and convincing my wife that I can do it and not call in someone else.
Now, my current project is planning on putting ceramic tile down on a small full bathroom floor, and convincing my wife that I can do it and not call in someone else.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
Jun 23, 2015, 11:32:58 PM6/23/15
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stretch it far enough. A 1 foot chunk of #18 cord could actually
provide LESS voltage drop than 100 feet of heavier cable.
The resistance of 1 foot of #18 is roughly the same as 2.5 feet of
#14 or 6.4 feet of #10 - so 100 feet of #10 will definitely drop more
voltage than 3 feet of #18 - as long as the current draw does not
excede the current carrying capacity of the #18
With stranded cord, that is about2-3 amps for the #18 cabtire or zip
cord - or 9-10 amps for solid wire, or about 5 amps for 7 strand
cl...@snyder.on.ca
Jun 23, 2015, 11:35:06 PM6/23/15
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started it plugged directly into the wall, but would start and run
with no problem on a 25 foot #14 extension cord. It was an
induction/repulsion motor. The cord resistance dropped the starting
current just enough to save the fuse.
taxed and spent
Jun 23, 2015, 11:58:19 PM6/23/15
to
<cl...@snyder.on.ca> wrote in message
news:qf8koadoo532j2uvb...@4ax.com...
> On Tue, 23 Jun 2015 12:05:33 -0400, Ed Pawlowski <e...@snet.net> wrote:
>
>>On 6/23/2015 9:44 AM, Dennis Osgood wrote:
>>
>>> I have read many articles both pro and con about voltage drops in
>>> extension cords. Apparently not everyone agrees with the established
>>> theories of electrical engineering. The electrician never did tell me
>>> why
>>> the extension cord was the problem. All I know is that removing the
>>> extension cord caused both the a/c and the freezer to work well.
>>>
>>
>>The size of the wire is more important than the length. If you used a
>>3' cord with 18 gauge wire it would be more of a problem than 100 foot
>>cord with #10 wire. Think of the wire as a pipe. You can only get so
>>much juice through it so bigger is better.
> Except the water analogy for electricity doesn't hold water, when you
> stretch it far enough. A 1 foot chunk of #18 cord could actually
> provide LESS voltage drop than 100 feet of heavier cable.
Of course the analogy holds. A 1 foot chunk of 1 inch pipe could actually
>
>>On 6/23/2015 9:44 AM, Dennis Osgood wrote:
>>
>>> I have read many articles both pro and con about voltage drops in
>>> extension cords. Apparently not everyone agrees with the established
>>> theories of electrical engineering. The electrician never did tell me
>>> why
>>> the extension cord was the problem. All I know is that removing the
>>> extension cord caused both the a/c and the freezer to work well.
>>>
>>
>>The size of the wire is more important than the length. If you used a
>>3' cord with 18 gauge wire it would be more of a problem than 100 foot
>>cord with #10 wire. Think of the wire as a pipe. You can only get so
>>much juice through it so bigger is better.
> Except the water analogy for electricity doesn't hold water, when you
> stretch it far enough. A 1 foot chunk of #18 cord could actually
> provide LESS voltage drop than 100 feet of heavier cable.
provide LESS pressure drop than 100 feet of larger pipe.
Mark Lloyd
Jun 24, 2015, 12:12:43 PM6/24/15
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On 06/23/2015 04:48 PM, trader_4 wrote:
[snip]
>
> Are you thinking AC instead of fridge/freezer? I said fridge/freezer
> pulls 90W and that an 11,000 BTU AC is a "large load".
>
The 5000 BTU AC I was using on my generator after last month's tornado
was drawing about 4A.
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us/
"The history on intellectual progress is written in the lives of
infidels." -- Robert Green Ingersoll (1833-1899),
[snip]
>
> Are you thinking AC instead of fridge/freezer? I said fridge/freezer
> pulls 90W and that an 11,000 BTU AC is a "large load".
>
was drawing about 4A.
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us/
"The history on intellectual progress is written in the lives of
infidels." -- Robert Green Ingersoll (1833-1899),
Mark Lloyd
Jun 24, 2015, 12:16:17 PM6/24/15
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On 06/23/2015 05:30 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
[snip]
>
> 90W is for a very old fridge. I just looked at the specs of a 33 cu ft
> side by side and it is 8.5A an 18 cu ft top freezer was 6A
>
My refrigerator (ordinary size side-by-side) is about 6 years old. When
I first got it running after the power outage it was drawing about 1A.
Power had been out about 15 hours, so I'd expect the compressor would be
running then.
[snip]
>
> 90W is for a very old fridge. I just looked at the specs of a 33 cu ft
> side by side and it is 8.5A an 18 cu ft top freezer was 6A
>
I first got it running after the power outage it was drawing about 1A.
Power had been out about 15 hours, so I'd expect the compressor would be
running then.
gregz
Jun 26, 2015, 12:17:16 AM6/26/15
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12 amps.
I use a 100 foot 14 gauge cord for small camper at camp. It has a 5kbtu air
conditioner. Seems to run fine.
My compressor didn't start in the garage using Micky mouse hookup. I now
use the wired receptacles using 10 gauge, 85 foot.
Greg
bob_villa
Jun 26, 2015, 9:47:44 AM6/26/15
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gregz
Jun 29, 2015, 3:49:18 AM6/29/15
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off my garage is 100 foot 12 gauge. I thought it migh have been priced
wrong when I paid $25 at my local hardware.
Greg
Ed Pawlowski
Jun 29, 2015, 11:20:58 AM6/29/15
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On 6/29/2015 3:47 AM, gregz wrote:
>
> I bought the extension for power failures LOL I always keep it handy. One
> off my garage is 100 foot 12 gauge. I thought it migh have been priced
> wrong when I paid $25 at my local hardware.
>
> Greg
>
How does it work during a power failure? Is it pre-charged? I imagine
>
> I bought the extension for power failures LOL I always keep it handy. One
> off my garage is 100 foot 12 gauge. I thought it migh have been priced
> wrong when I paid $25 at my local hardware.
>
> Greg
>
you plug it into itself so the electricity does not leak out.
Stormin Mormon
Jun 30, 2015, 9:17:17 AM6/30/15
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kind of award. I've seldom been so inspired.
Uncle Monster
Jul 1, 2015, 3:21:51 AM7/1/15
to
On Tuesday, June 30, 2015 at 8:17:17 AM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
> On 6/29/2015 11:31 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> > On 6/29/2015 3:47 AM, gregz wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> I bought the extension for power failures LOL I always keep it handy. One
> >> off my garage is 100 foot 12 gauge. I thought it migh have been priced
> >> wrong when I paid $25 at my local hardware.
> >>
> >> Greg
> >>
> >
> > How does it work during a power failure? Is it pre-charged? I imagine
> > you plug it into itself so the electricity does not leak out.
>
> This reply has totally got to be deserving of some
> kind of award. I've seldom been so inspired.
>
> -
I thought every one knew that if you quickly snatch the plug end of an extension out of a wall receptacle then quickly plug it into the socket end of the extension cord, electricity will be trapped in the cord as it circles round and round inside the cord. You must be very quick or the electricity will escape. ^_^
> On 6/29/2015 11:31 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> > On 6/29/2015 3:47 AM, gregz wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> I bought the extension for power failures LOL I always keep it handy. One
> >> off my garage is 100 foot 12 gauge. I thought it migh have been priced
> >> wrong when I paid $25 at my local hardware.
> >>
> >> Greg
> >>
> >
> > How does it work during a power failure? Is it pre-charged? I imagine
> > you plug it into itself so the electricity does not leak out.
>
> This reply has totally got to be deserving of some
> kind of award. I've seldom been so inspired.
>
> -
[8~{} Uncle Electric Monster
cl...@snyder.on.ca
Jul 1, 2015, 3:40:41 PM7/1/15
to
switches on their outlets to stop the leaks.
In north america we didn't need the switch because we didn't use ring
topology to wire our houses......
iwire...@gmail.com
Jul 5, 2015, 6:56:52 PM7/5/15
to
On Saturday, September 20, 2008 at 10:55:14 PM UTC-5, ni...@nowhere.com wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I just purchased a 7 CFT Magic Chef Freezer from the Home
> Depot. The place that I want to place it is about 6 feet from the
> nearest electrical outlet. Reading the manual it states not to use
> extension cords of any kind. Is the reason they put this on for fear
> the consumer will try to use a standard electric cord and cause a fire
> or is it something else? I plan on getting a 15A with a 14 gauge or 12
> gauge wire. The line that it is attached to goes to a 15 amp circuit
> and seeing that it hasn't tripped he line while it is running I should
> be ok. Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Nick
It's best to have a dedicated circuit installed. I had a customer last summer that lost hundreds of dollars worth of frozen seafood because the receptacle in the garage was connected to a GFCI in the upstairs bathroom that was tripped. They had no idea until it was too late. If your freezer is fairly close to your electrical panel it shouldn't be too expensive to have an electrician install a new circuit for you.
> Hello,
>
> I just purchased a 7 CFT Magic Chef Freezer from the Home
> Depot. The place that I want to place it is about 6 feet from the
> nearest electrical outlet. Reading the manual it states not to use
> extension cords of any kind. Is the reason they put this on for fear
> the consumer will try to use a standard electric cord and cause a fire
> or is it something else? I plan on getting a 15A with a 14 gauge or 12
> gauge wire. The line that it is attached to goes to a 15 amp circuit
> and seeing that it hasn't tripped he line while it is running I should
> be ok. Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Nick
http://www.iwireelectricservice.com/
Ed Pawlowski
Jul 5, 2015, 8:22:52 PM7/5/15
to
On 7/5/2015 6:56 PM, iwire...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> It's best to have a dedicated circuit installed. I had a customer last summer that lost hundreds of dollars worth of frozen seafood because the receptacle in the garage was connected to a GFCI in the upstairs bathroom that was tripped. They had no idea until it was too late. If your freezer is fairly close to your electrical panel it shouldn't be too expensive to have an electrician install a new circuit for you.
I'm not sure what the present code is, but a fridge or freezer should
>
> It's best to have a dedicated circuit installed. I had a customer last summer that lost hundreds of dollars worth of frozen seafood because the receptacle in the garage was connected to a GFCI in the upstairs bathroom that was tripped. They had no idea until it was too late. If your freezer is fairly close to your electrical panel it shouldn't be too expensive to have an electrician install a new circuit for you.
not be on a GFCI for that reason, I understand than now it is required
in the kitchen though.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
Jul 5, 2015, 8:45:52 PM7/5/15
to
Uncle Monster
Jul 6, 2015, 3:46:38 AM7/6/15
to
What a load of crap. ^_^
[8~{} Uncle Electric Monster
Stormin Mormon
Jul 6, 2015, 8:50:56 AM7/6/15
to
On 7/6/2015 3:46 AM, Uncle Monster wrote:
>> Deficated circuit for refrig is required here in new construction
> ^^^^^^^^^
>
> What a load of crap. ^_^
>
> [8~{} Uncle Electric Monster
>
Bet that made a lot of electricians mess?
>> Deficated circuit for refrig is required here in new construction
> ^^^^^^^^^
>
> What a load of crap. ^_^
>
> [8~{} Uncle Electric Monster
>
--
Uncle Monster
Jul 6, 2015, 9:00:21 AM7/6/15
to
On Monday, July 6, 2015 at 7:50:56 AM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
> On 7/6/2015 3:46 AM, Uncle Monster wrote:
> >> Deficated circuit for refrig is required here in new construction
> > ^^^^^^^^^
> >
> > What a load of crap. ^_^
> >
> > [8~{} Uncle Electric Monster
> >
>
> Bet that made a lot of electricians mess?
>
> --
> .
It must really be painful to poop out a circuit. O_o
> On 7/6/2015 3:46 AM, Uncle Monster wrote:
> >> Deficated circuit for refrig is required here in new construction
> > ^^^^^^^^^
> >
> > What a load of crap. ^_^
> >
> > [8~{} Uncle Electric Monster
> >
>
> Bet that made a lot of electricians mess?
>
> --
> .
[8~{} Uncle Circuit Monster
Stormin Mormon
Jul 6, 2015, 9:33:50 AM7/6/15
to
On 7/6/2015 9:00 AM, Uncle Monster wrote:
>>>> Deficated circuit for refrig is required here in new construction
>>>> Deficated circuit for refrig is required here in new construction
>>> What a load of crap. ^_^
>>>
>>> [8~{} Uncle Electric Monster
>>
>> Bet that made a lot of electricians mess?
>
>>>
>>> [8~{} Uncle Electric Monster
>>
>> Bet that made a lot of electricians mess?
>
> It must really be painful to poop out a circuit. O_o
>
> [8~{} Uncle Circuit Monster
>
You seen the new rap group with dancing that does
>
> [8~{} Uncle Circuit Monster
>
electrical work? They call them selves the circuit
breakdancers.
Robert Green
Jul 7, 2015, 3:26:43 AM7/7/15
to
<cl...@snyder.on.ca> wrote in message
news:qrjjpa59bmj4q2dvh...@4ax.com...
"Deficated" circuits aren't worth $hit!!! (You get my vote for funniest
typo of the month.)
--
Bobby G.
news:qrjjpa59bmj4q2dvh...@4ax.com...
typo of the month.)
--
Bobby G.
bob_villa
Jul 7, 2015, 7:35:41 AM7/7/15
to
> >I'm not sure what the present code is, but a fridge or freezer should
> >not be on a GFCI for that reason, I understand than now it is required
> >in the kitchen though.
> Deficated circuit for refrig is required here in new construction
...you rang my bell, *DUNG*!
> >not be on a GFCI for that reason, I understand than now it is required
> >in the kitchen though.
> Deficated circuit for refrig is required here in new construction
Stormin Mormon
Jul 7, 2015, 8:53:56 AM7/7/15
to
On 7/7/2015 3:25 AM, Robert Green wrote:
>>> I'm not sure what the present code is, but a fridge or freezer should
>>> not be on a GFCI for that reason, I understand than now it is required
>>> in the kitchen though.
>> Deficated circuit for refrig is required here in new construction
>
> "Deficated" circuits aren't worth $hit!!! (You get my vote for funniest
> typo of the month.)
>
> --
> Bobby G.
>
>
I'm still laughing, that was so furry.
>>> I'm not sure what the present code is, but a fridge or freezer should
>>> not be on a GFCI for that reason, I understand than now it is required
>>> in the kitchen though.
>> Deficated circuit for refrig is required here in new construction
>
> "Deficated" circuits aren't worth $hit!!! (You get my vote for funniest
> typo of the month.)
>
> --
> Bobby G.
>
>
hah
Jul 7, 2015, 12:40:09 PM7/7/15
to
--
gregz
Jul 8, 2015, 12:27:24 AM7/8/15
to
Greg
Ed Pawlowski
Jul 8, 2015, 1:19:06 AM7/8/15
to
downstairs bathroom GFCI. Don't recall how I found out, but I've not
tripped it in 30 years.
Stormin Mormon
Jul 8, 2015, 7:39:22 AM7/8/15
to
On 7/8/2015 12:25 AM, gregz wrote:
>> It's best to have a dedicated circuit installed. I had a customer last
>> summer that lost hundreds of dollars worth of frozen seafood because the
>> receptacle in the garage was connected to a GFCI in the upstairs bathroom
>> that was tripped. They had no idea until it was too late. If your freezer
>> is fairly close to your electrical panel it shouldn't be too expensive to
>> have an electrician install a new circuit for you.
>>
>>
>> http://www.iwireelectricservice.com/
>
> Bathroom should be on dedicated line..
>
> Greg
>
With the recent thread, should that be a
>> summer that lost hundreds of dollars worth of frozen seafood because the
>> receptacle in the garage was connected to a GFCI in the upstairs bathroom
>> that was tripped. They had no idea until it was too late. If your freezer
>> is fairly close to your electrical panel it shouldn't be too expensive to
>> have an electrician install a new circuit for you.
>>
>>
>> http://www.iwireelectricservice.com/
>
> Bathroom should be on dedicated line..
>
> Greg
>
deficated line?
bob_villa
Jul 8, 2015, 9:41:26 AM7/8/15
to
On Tuesday, July 7, 2015 at 11:40:09 AM UTC-5, hah wrote:
> On 07/07/2015 06:35 AM, bob_villa wrote:
> > On Sunday, July 5, 2015 at 7:45:52 PM UTC-5, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
> >
> >>> I'm not sure what the present code is, but a fridge or freezer should
> >>> not be on a GFCI for that reason, I understand than now it is required
> >>> in the kitchen though.
> >> Deficated circuit for refrig is required here in new construction
> >
> > ...you rang my bell, *DUNG*!
> >
>
> "What's brown and sounds like a bell?"
Yes, Monty Python!
> On 07/07/2015 06:35 AM, bob_villa wrote:
> > On Sunday, July 5, 2015 at 7:45:52 PM UTC-5, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
> >
> >>> I'm not sure what the present code is, but a fridge or freezer should
> >>> not be on a GFCI for that reason, I understand than now it is required
> >>> in the kitchen though.
> >> Deficated circuit for refrig is required here in new construction
> >
> > ...you rang my bell, *DUNG*!
> >
>
> "What's brown and sounds like a bell?"
Mark Lloyd
Jul 8, 2015, 1:21:04 PM7/8/15
to
On 07/08/2015 12:19 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
[snip]
>
> The outdoor receptacle on the deck off of the kichen is on the
> downstairs bathroom GFCI. Don't recall how I found out, but I've not
> tripped it in 30 years.
The receptacle behind my refrigerator is almost on a dedicated circuit.
The bathroom light is on it too. I guess some electrician did it to
avoid using more wire than necessary, as the bathroom is between panel
and kitchen.
"The intelligent man portions his belief to the evidence" -- Hume
[snip]
>
> The outdoor receptacle on the deck off of the kichen is on the
> downstairs bathroom GFCI. Don't recall how I found out, but I've not
> tripped it in 30 years.
The bathroom light is on it too. I guess some electrician did it to
avoid using more wire than necessary, as the bathroom is between panel
and kitchen.
"The intelligent man portions his belief to the evidence" -- Hume
CHARLENE M HOWLETT
Sep 21, 2017, 5:44:05 PM9/21/17
to
replying to hr(bob) hofmann, CHARLENE M HOWLETT wrote:
would it be safe? the extension cord would be running from my house outside
outlet to the barn. it might be a shorter distance, i havent measured it, but
what if it is between the 25-50 foot
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/using-extension-cord-with-freezer-332233-.htm
would it be safe? the extension cord would be running from my house outside
outlet to the barn. it might be a shorter distance, i havent measured it, but
what if it is between the 25-50 foot
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/using-extension-cord-with-freezer-332233-.htm
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