There's no doubt whatsoever that the pipe is 5/8", so please don't
write back and admonish a bad measurement. My problem, then, is that
I cannot find 5/8" copper pipe anywhere. What I've done is to
double-clamp a length of high-pressure rubber water line between the
5/8" and 1/2" lines. I don't fully trust this set up, though it
doesn't leak under sustained pressures. Are there any alternatives?
--
Best regards,
Brian Bigler <big...@eskimo.com>
Everett, Washington
USA
Brian Bigler wrote:
i would just braze the 1/2" to the 5/8"
Brian Bigler wrote in message <364F034E...@eskimo.com>...
>I've purchased a house that was built in the mid-1950's, and there're
>a fair number of small projects that've kept me busy. One that I, nor
>anyone at two local hardware outlets can figure, is that the house is
>plumbed with 5/8" copper piping. >Best regards,
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Jim West wrote in message ...
You might have given the measurements for the diameters of
your 5/8" tubing. Pipes and tubes have a history of oddball ways
of specifying the sizes. In some cases the measurement was outside,
in some it was inside and in some it was neither, but a "nominal" size.
Is the 5/8" the outer diameter? If so, this is not a standard today.
I suspect that, as increased water pressures became available, the
5/8" was either dropped or reduced to 1/2"
Have you tried mating your 5/8" pipe with 1/2" or 3/4" fittings?
I just put a micrometer on a 1/2" copper tube and the
outside diameter was just about 0.625" = 5/8"
Will 1/2" tube slide into your tube?
A 1/2" straight connector is about 0.705" outer diameter,
have you checked if that will slide into your tube"
There are copper adapters with a thread on one end and a female
connection for solder on the other. The outside diameter of the
end to be soldered is about 0.715" Will that slide into your tube?
You may be able to slide your tube into 3/4" fittings?
I am sure that it is possible to solder or braze a 1/2" or 3/4" fitting,
or tube, to your tube by slitting one or both mating tubes. The tricky
part
is not to overheat because any solder build-up with simply flow away.
Good luck,
ValH.
Brian Bigler wrote:
> I've purchased a house that was built in the mid-1950's, and there're
> a fair number of small projects that've kept me busy. One that I, nor
> anyone at two local hardware outlets can figure, is that the house is
> plumbed with 5/8" copper piping. I learned this when I attempted to
> install an outside faucet that was not installed, though the copper
> piping ended just inside the outside wall. There was no water in the
> pipe, so I cut off the capped end and aligned the 1/2" copper pipe
> that I'd bought to do the job. To my surprise, the end I cut off had
> been swedged down from 5/8" to 1/2", and the explanation as to why the
> job had not been completed became clear: The swedging job had taken
> the pipe too far past 1/2", and the joint was too loose to hold
> solder.
>
> There's no doubt whatsoever that the pipe is 5/8", so please don't
> write back and admonish a bad measurement. My problem, then, is that
> I cannot find 5/8" copper pipe anywhere. What I've done is to
> double-clamp a length of high-pressure rubber water line between the
> 5/8" and 1/2" lines. I don't fully trust this set up, though it
> doesn't leak under sustained pressures. Are there any alternatives?
> --
5/8" copper pipe nominal size has a 3/4" O.D. This pipe may be hard to
find in plumbing supplies, but I believe it is still made. Try
www.copper.org.
Be careful if you are going to try to solder 1/2 to 5/8" somehow. A
proper solder joint requires that the I.D. of the fitting is
0.002-0.005" large than the O.D. of the pipe. If the joint is too loose
then it may be difficult to get a good joint.
sltracey
Larry Caldwell wrote:
In article <364F034E...@eskimo.com>, big...@eskimo.com writes:
What I've done is to
double-clamp a length of high-pressure rubber water line between the
5/8" and 1/2" lines. I don't fully trust this set up, though it
doesn't leak under sustained pressures. Are there any alternatives?
You could use 5/8" soft copper tubing. It's usually sold as refrigeration tubing. Contractors use it here in California when they prepare a construction site for water supply under a concrete slab home. This diameter will fit into 3/4" copper fittings and can be soldered together.
Hope this helps, good luck
Jim Fleshman
Ocean Grove Lodge
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sltracey wrote:
>
> Brian Bigler wrote:
> >
> > I've purchased a house that was built in the mid-1950's, and there're
> > a fair number of small projects that've kept me busy. One that I, nor
> > anyone at two local hardware outlets can figure, is that the house is
> > plumbed with 5/8" copper piping. I learned this when I attempted to
> > install an outside faucet that was not installed, though the copper
> > piping ended just inside the outside wall. There was no water in the
> > pipe, so I cut off the capped end and aligned the 1/2" copper pipe
> > that I'd bought to do the job. To my surprise, the end I cut off had
> > been swedged down from 5/8" to 1/2", and the explanation as to why the
> > job had not been completed became clear: The swedging job had taken
> > the pipe too far past 1/2", and the joint was too loose to hold
> > solder.
> >
> > There's no doubt whatsoever that the pipe is 5/8", so please don't
> > write back and admonish a bad measurement. My problem, then, is that
> > I cannot find 5/8" copper pipe anywhere. What I've done is to
> > double-clamp a length of high-pressure rubber water line between the
> > 5/8" and 1/2" lines. I don't fully trust this set up, though it
> > doesn't leak under sustained pressures. Are there any alternatives?
> There's no doubt whatsoever that the pipe is 5/8", so please don't
> write back and admonish a bad measurement. My problem, then, is that
> I cannot find 5/8" copper pipe anywhere. What I've done is to
> double-clamp a length of high-pressure rubber water line between the
> 5/8" and 1/2" lines. I don't fully trust this set up, though it
> doesn't leak under sustained pressures. Are there any alternatives?
Somebody must sell 5/8" copper, because I have a flare tool that has a
5/8" hole. You might try to find a 5/8 flare to NPT brass fitting.
-- Larry
Actually, the 5/8" on your flare tool is for 5/8" OD tubing which is your
standard 1/2" ID plumbing tubing. A/C guys use 5/8" ID tubing, which we call
3/4" tubing OD. As someone said earlier, plumbers refer to tubing in ID, A/C
guys use OD. Some day maybe those plumbers will get it right.
OK, one more time. 5/8" refrigeration tubing is actually 1/2" plumbing tubing.
The only difference is that us HVAC guys need our tubing cleaned inside and
capped.
5/8"ACR or 1/2" ID plumbing will not fit well in 3/4" "ID" OR "OD" fittings.
If you have 5/8" ID tubing, you need to get ACR 3/4" OD.