How to unshrink all-leather work gloves (deerskin, goatskin, no cowhide)?
Mel Knight
pull poison oak vines so I'm forced to wash the gloves after use.
Even though I buy XL (the largest size they have in the non-cowhide
gloves), once it's washed (even in just cold water with air drying), they
shrink so much, that I can barely fit them on my hands.
I actually doubt there is a solution - but - just in case, may I ask ...
Is there a way to un-shrink leather work gloves?
Hank
Plan A.....I would start by wetting them, put dowels in the fingers
approx. the same size as your fingers and a block in the palm until
they dry.
Plan B.......go visit OJ Simpson for advise.
Hank
Sjouke Burry
While still moist, tightly stuff with shredded newspaper
or toilet paper, starting with the fingers.
When dry, remove that.
Joe
An industrial supply house should have gloves more suitable to what
you are doing. There are plastic coated types with metal
reinforcements and many other unusual designs. Check McMaster and
Grainger for possibilities.
Joe
Steve B
"Mel Knight" <Mel...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:inim37$77l$1...@speranza.aioe.org...
I soak mine in water for about an hour, then wear them until they are dry.
Werks fer me.
Steve
Heart surgery pending?
www.cabgbypasssurgery.com
Tony Miklos
I buy cheap $0.67 cotton gloves and throw them out when I'm done using
them or they are dirty, not for poison ivy, but other stuff.
Poison ivy I just wash well with dishwashing detergent (the soap of
choice has to cut oil/grease) *within* an hour or two and never have a
problem.
Do a combination of the two and you may have a solution to getting
poison ivy.
I offer this advice because I never had any good luck with unshrinking
leather. Or I suppose you could take the leather gloves to a dry cleaner?
aemeijers
Cotton gloves over single-use nitrile sounds like a good compromise for
pulling poisonous weeds. I wouldn't throw them out after every use, but
I would mark them with a sharpie and store them in a dedicated sealed
container between uses. Only open the container when wearing the fresh
nitrile, and seal the container before taking them off. That way, bare
skin never touches the contaminated gloves. Note for casual readers- you
never wash anything with poison or irritating plant oils in a washing
machine used for regular clothing. Plastic bucket and garden hose, while
wearing rubber gloves.
--
aem sends...
Tony Miklos
I always wash clothing that contacted poison ivy in the washing machine
and never had a problem. I think in my case the detergent washes the
oily poison away.
JIMMIE
There are glove maker's forms. Dont know what they are really called.
Part of making some gloves is to put them on a form wet and let them
shrink to fit/
Jimmie
The Henchman
"Mel Knight" wrote in message news:inim37$77l$1...@speranza.aioe.org...
---------------------------
Heat shrinks things. Try cold water and do NOT throw in dryer.
Newspaper dries things really well.
Try your dishwasher. Any parent of a teenager that has a 50 dollar baseball
cap knows to wash the cap top rack of dishwasher, then air dry. That's
actually how I wash my oven mitts.
Mel Knight
> I always wash clothing that contacted poison ivy in the washing machine
> and never had a problem. I think in my case the detergent washes the
> oily poison away.
I always wash my clothes right after working with this poison oak. The
clothes come out splotched with black oils from the poison oak. It looks
like I've been in a grease-gun fight. The gloves are stained black as if
the kids put markers all over them. That's all the poison oak oils after
they've oxidized in the wash.
This isn't little stuff. These vines are as thick as your wrist. Little
cotton gloves are NOT going to cut it. I was hoping the leather would
hold up. Gas welding gloves were nice and long but the cowhide was too
thick. The arc welding gloves fit and worked perfectly.
The main problem is they shrink. I like the idea of 'dry cleaning' them.
I wonder if I can buy dry-cleaning solvent at the hardware store.
What dry-cleaning solvent can I buy at the hardware store that will clean
leather gloves of urushiol?
Mel Knight
> There are glove maker's forms.
What I tried, which worked somewhat, was to put nitrile gloves on, and
then put the shrunken leather gloves on, and then pour new motor oil into
an oil-drain pan and then dip my gloved hands into that motor oil.
Then I clamped my fist and 'stretched' them for about a half hour in the
oil.
They're 'drying' now. Hopefully that might work. Dunno if I'm going to
get cancer from the motor oil though. :)
Mel Knight
> Heat shrinks things. Try cold water and do NOT throw in dryer.
I did both of those things. Apparently 'just' plain old cold water
shrinks things too.
> Newspaper dries things really well.
Drying isn't the problem. Shrinking is the problem.
> Try your dishwasher.
Novel idea. I'm not sure how the dishwasher is any different though than
the washing machine. How is it different?
Mel Knight
> While still moist, tightly stuff with shredded newspaper or toilet
> paper, starting with the fingers. When dry, remove that.
That, I think, is the best suggestion so far.
Of course, it's too late for this set of gloves - but in the future it
will be tried.
Of course, given these arc-welding gloves are mid-wrist in length (far
longer than your typical garden leather gloves), it will be a bear to get
shredded newspaper into or out of the finger holes.
Mel Knight
> Plan A.....I would start by wetting them, put dowels in the fingers
> approx. the same size as your fingers and a block in the palm until they
> dry.
This is (in a way) what I'm trying.
I soaked them in motor oil and wore them for about a half hour, flexing
like a muscle builder the whole time.
They're currently drying.
The Henchman
"Mel Knight" wrote in message news:innu5f$3cu$3...@speranza.aioe.org...
> Try your dishwasher.
---------------------
You wash things likes caps in the dishwasher to PRESERVE the shape of the
item. I wash oven mitts in the dishwasher to de grease them and they never
lose their shape. When they tumble around in a washing machine they lose
their shape and even stiching from the grease and salt that eats away at
them. That's why $50 baseball caps get washed in a dishwasher. The
dishwasher is much gentler and as effective.
It's worth a shot to throw a pair of gloves in and see if a gentle wash in a
dishwasher might do the trick to keep the shape of your gloves.
chaniarts
they didn't lose shape. they lost size.
leather shrinks after it gets wet unless it's put on a form of the correct
size whlist it's still wet. some leather can be treated to resist this; the
leather parts of my sailing gloves shrink a bit, but not much, when i get
them wet with salt water. i'd doubt that welding gloves are so treated.
Mel Knight
> leather shrinks after it gets wet unless it's put on a form
I had read that goatskin shrinks less than cowhide due to the 'lanolin';
but still, it shrinks too much. :(
I wonder chemically, 'why' leather shrinks when it gets wet.
Does that 'wet' only apply to water? Or is "motor oil" also 'wet'?
Jon Danniken
>
> What dry-cleaning solvent can I buy at the hardware store that will
> clean leather gloves of urushiol?
Tetrachloroethylene, AKA brake cleaner (Brakleen - red can). Unless you
live in California, of course.
Otherwise, a good detergent removes the oil.
Jon
Mel Knight
>> What dry-cleaning solvent can I buy at the hardware store that will
>> clean leather gloves of urushiol?
>
> Tetrachloroethylene, AKA brake cleaner (Brakleen - red can). Unless you
> live in California, of course.
I would have to live in the Republik of Kalifornia!
There are no chlorocarbons on the shelves, I think.
Is there something else I can use (perhaps from the auto parts store or
the hardware store)?
Here, for example, is a picture of all my experiments (all of which
failed)!
Tony Miklos
> On Thu, 07 Apr 2011 23:09:19 -0400, Tony Miklos wrote:
>
>> I always wash clothing that contacted poison ivy in the washing machine
>> and never had a problem. I think in my case the detergent washes the
>> oily poison away.
>
> I always wash my clothes right after working with this poison oak. The
> clothes come out splotched with black oils from the poison oak. It looks
> like I've been in a grease-gun fight. The gloves are stained black as if
> the kids put markers all over them. That's all the poison oak oils after
> they've oxidized in the wash.
I think the other poster was suggesting that if you washed your urushiol
tainted clothes in the washing machine, then all your regular clothes
will become contaminated when washing them in the same machine. That's
how I read it anyway, I could be wrong, it happens a lot.
It seems difficult to find accurate information about it online. One
website tells you to wash it off with plain water and whatever you do,
do not take a shower or you will spread it all over your body! I wash
my hands with soap or dish detergent first then take a shower and use
lots of soap. Lather rinse repeat, lather rinse repeat.
The Conservation Commission of Missouri says "CONTRARY TO POPULAR
BELIEF, poison oak is found only in a few counties in extreme southern
Missouri. Another common misconception is the belief that poison sumac
or shumac grows in Missouri. This shrub or small tree resembles smooth
sumac but has never been found in the state."
Do you happen to be in extreme southern Missouri? Seriously, I'm curious.
I never heard of the black stains but it's a popular topic online. Even
a poison test I find very interesting.
One means of identifying poison ivy in the field is the “black spot
test.” Leaves are collected (without direct skin contact) and placed on
a sheet of white paper. The leaves are crushed and discarded. If the
resulting stain turns dark brown or black within a few minutes of
exposure to air, this is evidence that the leaves are likely from a
Toxicodendron plant quoted from
http://www.medscape.com/viewarticle/572966_3 I'm going to have to try
that with some poison ivy. (I'm a bit of a mad scientist).
> This isn't little stuff. These vines are as thick as your wrist. Little
> cotton gloves are NOT going to cut it. I was hoping the leather would
> hold up. Gas welding gloves were nice and long but the cowhide was too
> thick. The arc welding gloves fit and worked perfectly.
Yikes! Vines that big I just cut so it kills the rest of the plant,
especially if it's killing a tree by shading the leaves. I'll assume
you want the stuff GONE not just stop it from spreading.
I'm guessing the softer gloves were for light MIG or TIG welding. TIG
gloves are really thin and supple. For gas welding you don't need very
heavy gloves either since your hands are often fairly far away from the
flame. I don't see how they would be thicker than for arc welding, and
arc welding covers a lot of different types of welding. It pretty much
means you use electric.
> The main problem is they shrink. I like the idea of 'dry cleaning' them.
> I wonder if I can buy dry-cleaning solvent at the hardware store.
Now that I think of it, the dry cleaning solution is often reused, it
could spread the oil to other peoples clothes!
> What dry-cleaning solvent can I buy at the hardware store that will clean
> leather gloves of urushiol?
Can't help you there.
Mel Knight
> I think the other poster was suggesting that if you washed your urushiol
> tainted clothes in the washing machine, then all your regular clothes
> will become contaminated when washing them in the same machine. That's
> how I read it anyway, I could be wrong, it happens a lot.
I don't want to get into any arguments, because of my nature, and, more
importantly, because I'm asking YOU guys for help!
See this picture of all my failed experiments! :(
http://www.ephotobay.com/image/poison-oak-gloves-shrunk.jpg
Consider me an "accidental" expert in urushiol contamination!
From my experience (only), there is no cross contamination after washing
in the washing machine. I fully 'understand' why anyone would 'think'
there is cross contamination. I would think so too. But there just isn't.
(That's what I love about experimental evidence; you don't have to
understand it if you can't understand it (and I can't); but, it is what
it is.)
I have cleared over 500-yards of poison oak, creating a tunnel as tall as
a man and as wide as he stands, pulling vines down from twenty feet into
the air, forty foot long vines digging into the loose hilly soil, vines
intertwined so thickly you can't walk through the stuff and you're a foot
off the ground in layers of the stuff underfoot. Hills so steep, no
machine can safely stay on the heavily overgrown chaparral slope.
Anywhere the vines touch bare skin (mostly neck, face, wrists, & ankles
or torn clothing), I break out in a rash. Otherwise, I'm entirely covered
in two layers of cloth, but, of course, the problematic arc-welding
gloves are only one layer deep {of deer, goat, and pigskin by way of
experiments to see which resist shrinking after water washing & air
drying).
The cowhide arc-welding gloves shrinks far too much; the goatskin lanolin
arc-welding gloves seems to shrink the least (but still far too much);
and any 'normal' (generally cowhide) work gloves are ridiculously useless
(too short for the most part, and too thin).
BTW, there is PLENTY of cross contamination (for years thereafter) if you
do NOT wash the clothes and gloves in the washing machine!
But, whatever (chemically) happens in the washing machine, works just
fine. I know this stuff rather well as all the black splotches in the
picture attached is oxidized urushiol. (For some reason, the black only
shows up on the clothes after you wash them - but the black lacquer does
show up on easily oozing out on cut vines a few days after cutting the
vine).
What I'm trying to find out is how to WASH the gloves without having them
SHRINK two sizes on me! I can't get them any bigger than XL and they're
MEDIUMs by the time they're cold washed in water and air dried.
BTW, do any of the engineers on here know WHY wet leather SHRINKS?
Is it a physical or chemical process?
Tony Miklos
Holy crap, you really have a big project going on don't you?
Jon Danniken
> On Fri, 08 Apr 2011 16:51:28 -0700, Jon Danniken wrote:
>
>>> What dry-cleaning solvent can I buy at the hardware store that will
>>> clean leather gloves of urushiol?
>>
>> Tetrachloroethylene, AKA brake cleaner (Brakleen - red can). Unless
>> you live in California, of course.
>
> I would have to live in the Republik of Kalifornia!
>
> There are no chlorocarbons on the shelves, I think.
I wonder if you could get it shipped....
http://www.amazon.com/CRC-Industries-BRAKLEEN-Cleaner-05089F-C/dp/B0002T8Y48
Jon
Tony Miklos
> On Fri, 08 Apr 2011 14:49:03 -0700, chaniarts wrote:
>> leather shrinks after it gets wet unless it's put on a form
>
> I had read that goatskin shrinks less than cowhide due to the 'lanolin';
> but still, it shrinks too much. :(
>
> I wonder chemically, 'why' leather shrinks when it gets wet.
When it's on the animal it's wet, then they stretch it even more, after
getting wet it loosens up the thing-a-ma-bobs and it goes back to it's
more natural size.
> Does that 'wet' only apply to water? Or is "motor oil" also 'wet'?
I don't like the motor oil idea, or any oil. I think it will give the
urushiol oil a nice path to the inside of the gloves.
Dean Hoffman
> I buy deerskin and goatskin leather gloves from the arc-welding shops to
> pull poison oak vines so I'm forced to wash the gloves after use.
>
> Even though I buy XL (the largest size they have in the non-cowhide
> gloves), once it's washed (even in just cold water with air drying), they
> shrink so much, that I can barely fit them on my hands.
>
> I actually doubt there is a solution - but - just in case, may I ask ...
>
> Is there a way to un-shrink leather work gloves?
I wonder what low air pressure would do. Fasten them somehow to a
piece of pvc pipe then put a few pounds of pressure to them. Use a
pipe roughly the diameter of your wrist.
Mel Knight
> website tells you to wash it off with plain water and whatever you do,
> do not take a shower or you will spread it all over your body! I wash
> my hands with soap or dish detergent first then take a shower and use
> lots of soap. Lather rinse repeat, lather rinse repeat.
I appreciate that you did the research (you are one out of a hundred
thousand!). That's what I love about the USENET; you find the 1/1000th of
the people who actually 'think' about the problem (in order to solve it)!
Rest assured, I've read EVERYTHING I can find in the net about urushiol!
And, not surprisingly, in my humble experience covered in poison-oak
urushiol, much of what is on the net is wrong.
Mind you, this California chaparral poison oak is NOTHING like the east
coast poison ivy infestations. This poison oak stuff out west is Paul
Bunyan & John Henry combined, compared to the puny stuff back east that
fifty gallons of roundup will kill. This stuff out west has to be
physically removed, and because of the topology, it has to be removed by
hand. (Unless you own a helicopter, in which case you'll pay someone else
to remove it and be done with it.)
That's OK. I like working outdoors. And, I love to defeat my enemy.
But to defeat your enemy, you must 'know' your enemy. Let me take the
quoted lines one by one with my humble experience (and I do this good
naturedly') to edify the populace about the problem at hand in the hopes
of a solution out there).
O: === observation (kindly observed by Tony)
E: === experimental result (by me)
O: It seems difficult to find accurate information about it online.
E: Lots of good and just plain wrong out there. No surprises here.
O: One website tells you to wash it off with plain water and whatever you
do, do not take a shower or you will spread it all over your body!
E: Follow that advice and you're dead meat! Trust me. You have as little
as ten to fifteen minutes (yes, ten to fifteen minutes) before the
urushiol makes its way through your outer layer of skin to where it's
oxidized to a quinone. Once it's a quinone, all you need is a Blast cell
to recognize it, and your cell-mediated immunity immune system kicks off
the battle (this is all from memory - but it's essentially what happens).
Once your immune system kicks off, you've started the cytokine storm
chain reaction that ends up as dead nerve cells (hence the itching) and
red blotches (red === blood, by definition) because of dead cells.
Urushiol is an oil. Wash it off with a solvent or a surfactant. Nothing
complicated than that. Shower is just about the only 'practical' way to
do that, head to toe. Personally, I shun the fancy (read expensive) Technu
stuff, although I understand how spermicides & surfactants and granules
of polyethylene work, I just can't use quarts of the stuff at 40 dollars
for a few ounce tube of the patented stuff.
So ... my advice (trust me, I've been there). DO TAKE A SHOWER (and
forget about that silly stuff about not 'opening the pores' with hot
water ... take a LONG shower, as comfortably hot as you like because the
volume of water and soap is what is getting rid of the urushiol that
hasn't yet been bound to a cell and turned into the 'infective' quinol.
O: I wash my hands with soap or dish detergent first then take a shower
and use lots of soap. Lather rinse repeat, lather rinse repeat.
E: Exactly!
The problem, of course, is that nobody who has any work to do can take a
shower every fifteen minutes.
So, what I do is work in the field for 8 hours on a weekend, and when I
come back in (admittedly far too late to have prevented the quinone from
forming), I shower for as long as I like and I wash all my clothes,
including my gloves (boots are problematic).
The problem I have is my gloves are shrinking far too much.
What do we (the tribal collective 'we') know about NOT shrinking gloves
but still washing urushiol oils off of them?
Roy
==
Mineral oil is safer to use than motor oil...food grade silicone spray
might help also.
==
Mel Knight
I'm in the Republik of Kalifornia.
The poison oak in the chaparral is in all the valleys out here,
especially if they've been cleared at one time (even twenty years ago).
The leaves are reddish, and small in the areas that are often shaded by
neighboring hills; and huge and green in the sunlit areas. Likewise, the
stems are as thin as pencils in the shaded areas (although they make up
in sheer intertwined volume what they lack in girth)... and the vines
that grow twenty or thirty feet into the trees are easily thicker than
your wrist.
It's a veritable jungle (in places), especially near the seasonal streams
and they almost choke the oak trees, as if the sudden oak death fungus
wasn't enough to do them in.
When you cut the thicker climbing vines, within a few days, you can see
the stain of the black lacquer of the oxidized urushiol literally
dripping down all around the cut areas.
It should be noted that EVERY part of the plant exudes urushiol when the
cell membrane is damaged (which takes almost no force to do on the
leaves, for example). But, I'm cutting and slashing and pulling at the
stuff! So, there is black splotchy urushiol all over my gloves and
clothes.
Funny thing is that the black doesn't show up right away ... it takes
only a single wash & dry cycle. Even air drying (for the gloves) shows up
the black so it isn't heat. It shows up outside on the cut vines.
If any chem engineers know WHY urushiol turns black after washing, please
let us know! It's my "assumption" (yes, I know) that this is due to
"oxidation" of the urushiol.
But, you chem engineers should know better than I.
Mel Knight
I'm in the Republik of Kalifornia.
Dr Rig
>> But to defeat your enemy, you must 'know' your enemy.
http://books.google.com/books?id=wG8cLCAJr2cC&pg=PA44&lpg=PA44&dq=urushiol
+quinol&source=bl&ots=7vYkxUI6xh&sig=_LKn3m8bztjkBEHhqV9mxzu_r3I&hl=en&ei=98OfTe7_LuvQiAK9pcj4Ag&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=7&ved=0CEAQ6AEwBg#v=onepage&q=urushiol
%20quinol&f=false
"Very little is known of the chemistry of black pigmentation in plants,
although for centuries the formation of black pigments by phenol
oxidation has been exploited in China and Japan for the lacquering of
furniture. The natural varnish is a greyish-white exudate obtained from
various Anacardiaceae (chiefly Rhus spp.) which is rapidly oxidized by
air in the presence of laccase, the substrate being a mixture of
alkycatechols (urushiol and related compounds). Quinols are also
implicated in the formation of black pigments. Arbutin, the monoglucoside
of quinol, occurs in many plants, and it has been suggested that in some
cases the blackening of senescent leaves (e.g., Orobus niger L., Pyrus
communis L.) is caused by oxidation of the aglycone after enzymic
hydrolysis."
Dr Rig
> So, what I do is work in the field for 8 hours on a weekend, and when I
> come back in (admittedly far too late to have prevented the quinone from
> forming)
http://tinyurl.com/3mlfduq
"Urushiol is a sticky, colorless oil that tends to oxidize and stain
things black when exposed to air"
http://tinyurl.com/4xyc2no
"This side chain is mostly a C15 (sometimes a C17) alkyl (saturated) or
alkenyl (one, two, or three double bonds C=C) chain. the alk(en)yl
catechols are also known as urushiol, a generic name that in fact refers
to the blend of several close molecules (urushiols) naturally contained
in the plant. An urushiol with a C15 side chain is named
pentadecylcatechol (a term sometimes employed in medical literature for
poison ivy ... "
http://www.springerlink.com/content/u1h71g8284463n46/
"The induction of allergic contact dermatitis to urushiols from poison
ivy and related plants is generally believed to involve an initial
oxidation event by which a protein-reactive quinone is formed. However,
this does not readily account for the contact allergenicity of closely
related mono- and dihydric alkylbenzenes such as the alkylphenols and
alkylresorcinols which are not so easily oxidised to quinones in vitro.
When the redox processes known to occur in living tissues are taken into
consideration, a more plausible unifying mechanism involving the
formation of protein-reactive radical species becomes apparent.
Experiments described here examine the autoxidation of p-benzoquinone and
various mono- and dihydric benzenes and alkylbenzenes, and their
reactions with the diphenylpicrylhydrazyl radical, cysteine, glutathione,
and NADH. We have also demonstrated that administration to mice of 2-
oxo-4-thiazolidine carboxylate, a compound known to elevate intracellular
glutathione levels, inhibits the irritancy and sensitising activity of 3-
pentadecylphenol. This work suggests that redox cycling in the skin
following penetration of allergenic mono- and dihydric alkylbenzenes
initially depletes local levels of endogenous reducing equivalents such
as glutathione and NADH; once depleted, further cycling results in the
uncontrolled generation of radical species which may reasonably be
expected to exhibit protein reactivity."
http://www.immuneepitope.org/assayId/1682711
"Contact sensitization to components of the urushiol oils of poison oak
and poison ivy appears to require covalent bond formation between the o-
quinones derived from urushiol catechols and nucleophilic groups on
proteins. Previous studies using a murine delayed hypersensitivity model
demonstrated that 5-methyl-3-pentadecylcatechol (5-Me-PDC) is an
epicutaneous tolerogen to the parent compound and a weak sensitizer to
itself. To investigate further the structural requirements for
sensitization vs suppression, 5,6-dimethyl-3-pentadecylcatechol (5,6-di-
Me-PDC) and 4,5,6-trimethylpentadecylcatechol (4,5,6-tri-Me-PDC) were
synthesized. The former compound is blocked at both preferred sites for
covalent bond formation and the latter is completely blocked towards
conjugate addition reactions. These compounds were tested for sensitizing
and suppressive ability. Epicutaneous application of both analogs
suppressed subsequent induction of sensitization to 3-pentadecylcatechol
(PDC) and 3-heptadecylcatechol (HDC). Lymph node cells from animals
treated with 5,6-di-Me-PDC could transfer suppression. The dimethyl
analog, 5,6-di-Me-PDC, but not the trimethyl analog also exhibited weak
sensitizing capacity. The urushiol analogs 5-pentadecylresorcinol (PDR)
and 3-heptadecylveratrole (HDV) which cannot form o-quinones were found
to be ineffective sensitizers as well. HDV in addition produced no
blastogenesis in draining lymph nodes whereas lymph node cell
proliferation induced by 4,5,6-tri-Me-PDC followed the same kinetics as
previously observed for HDC. PDR elicited weak proliferation with a
different time course. These and previous studies indicate that blocking
the C5-position on the catechol ring favors the induction of suppression,
although some sensitizing capacity may be retained. Covalent bond
formation may not be necessary for the induction of active suppressor
cell populations."
http://tinyurl.com/3prsamf
"Other natural compounds, because of their allergenic nature, cause a
delayed hypersensitivity response called contact dermatitis. One of the
best known cases is the response to poison ivy, poison oak, or poison
sumac. ... Contact with these plants causes exudation of a mixture of
similar compounds called urushiols, which are 4-alkyl-substituted
dihydroxyphenyl compounds (catechols). These substances are seldom
inflammatory during the first exposure, but subsequently trigger a
delayed immune response. The mechanism involves initial oxidation to the
quinone, which then reacts with skin proteins and becomes an immunogen.
The stimulated Langerhans cells of the skin migrate to the thymus, where
they, in turn, stimulate the production of thymic lymphocytes capable of
responding to urushiol. These thymus lymphocytes then migrate to the skin
and participate in the inflammatory response to subsequent exposures to
the urushiol compounds. It is interesting that the lacquer used to
provide a glossy surface for Japanese pottery is made from a plant
related to poison ivy, which also contains urushiols. As the lacquered
surface is allowed to dry in the heat, the urushiols are inactivated."
http://tinyurl.com/3le6glh
"On exposure to air in the presence of laccase, urushiol polymerises and
hardens to form a glossy waterproof coating when applied to a solid
surface such as wood."
http://tinyurl.com/3gp8xsz
"Laccase oxidizes urushiol to give a semiquinone radical that may undergo
reactions into two ways: attacking the urushiol nucleus to give biphenyl
urushiol, some of which are converted into dibenzofuran compounds through
a further laccasae-catalyzed oxidation, and the urushiol quinone, through
a disproportionatation reaction of the semiquinone radicals, may undergo
coupling reactions with the triene side chain via H- abstraction from the
methylene group inserted between conjugated diolefines and monopoolefine
to give a heptatriene cation that may subsequently produce nucleus side-
chain C-C or C-O bound compounds with a conjugated triene structure. The
quinone may attack alpha-methylene of the mono- or diolefin in the same
way. The catechol nucleus of the formed urushiol dimers is also
acceptable for the laccase-catalyzed oxidation to give corresponding
semiquinone radicals, which may behave similarly as the semiquinone
radical or urushiol."
http://www.amano-enzyme.co.jp/eng/enzyme/21.html
Laccase (from the dictionary of enzymes)
Polyphenol Oxidase (Laccase)
"Laccase works on various phenolic and anilinic compounds, using oxygen
as the hydrogen acceptor. For example, urushiol found in tree sap can
undergo oxidative polymerization by the action of laccase. ... Laccase
extracts oxygen from the moisture in the atmosphere and catalyzes the
oxidative polymerization of urushiol, forming a coating film on the
surface of urushi lacquer."
http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/fcn/gras_notices/grn000122.pdf
"LaIUB nomenclature: Laccase, urushiol oxidase, p-diphenol oxidase.
Systematic name Benzenediol, oxygen oxidoreductase ... the enzyme has 3
internal disulfide bonds and 4 copper atoms ... Laccase is a polyphenol
oxidase, which belongs to the family of blue multi-copper oxidases. the
substrate oxidized by laccase is regarded as an electron donor. Oxidase
is used only where 02 is an acceptor. These enzymes catalyse the
oxidation of a wide range of diphenols and other substrates with the
concomitant reduction of dioxygen (O2) to water. In general, there are
two types of phenol oxidases found in plants and fungi."
http://chymistryinfo.blogspot.com/2008/04/urrrrrr-it-itches.html
"Urushiol isn't just a weekend gardener's nuisance, but can cause serious
problems for fire fighters in working brush fires in areas such as the
California hills, where poison sumac, another urushiol producing plant,
thrives. The chemistry gives some clues to helping prevent and treat
urushiol reactions. Application of an organic derivative of an absorbent
mineral (bentonite) can soak up and trap any oil before it reaches the
skin and binds- this is the principal behind the commercial product Ivy
Block. Alternatively, something that binds strongly to the urushiol
target but is not itself a hapten could act as a preventative. D-Limonene,
found in citrus skins, has been floated as a possibility, but I couldn't
find any evidence that it works!
Once the stuff has bound, you just have to wait it out. It takes a couple
of weeks for the bulk of the urushiol-protein complexes to break down. In
the meantime, steroids can reduce the inflammatory reaction and histamine
blockers, H1 (like Benadryl) or H2 (Tagamet or Zantac) can provide some
relief from the itch. "
http://www.tomifobia.com/poisonivy.html
"Forty-three years living in the country and here was my first bout of
poison ivy.
It was a classic case. The red swellings, the little weeping blisters,
the crusted lesions and, of course, the ITCHING! It was pretty well gone
in a week's time. But I'm the kind of person who likes to know why I've
just spent several days in mild agony, so for all you poison ivy
sufferers out there, here's a primer on what the scientists call plant-
induced allergic contact dermatitis.
Poison ivy, along with its near cousins poison sumac and poison oak,
belong to a plant family that goes by the ominous Latin name of
Toxicodendron.
When the leaves or stems of these plants are bruised or damaged by
insects, the sap that escapes contains a compound called urushiol, an
incredibly powerful allergen.
Some people are so sensitive to urushiol that it takes as little as two
micrograms (less than one millionth of an ounce) on the skin to cause an
allergic reaction. One expert estimated that the amount of urushiol
needed to cover a pin-head is sufficient to cause rashes in 500 people.
If the sap is removed within an hour or two, most people have no
reaction. But that's a lot easier said than done, and most of us don't
even realize we've brushed up against a member of the Toxicodendron
family (or worse, breathed it in as the plant burns - a particularly
nasty problem that forest-fire fighters live with).
Urushiol rapidly penetrates the skin and binds with proteins in deeper
epidermal cells forming a new compound called quinone. The quinone,
attached as it is to protein molecules in your skin, acts as a red flag
to your immune system.
Now that the stuff is in you, it's your T-cells that lead the charge.
Somewhere in your past you had a brush with urushiol, even if it didn't
turn into a rash. Your immune system created T-cells that recognize the
urushiol-quinone invader and they've been patrolling your bloodstream and
lymphatic system ever since.
After your stroll through the woods, the urushiol soaked through your
skin and BANG! those T-cells were ready. They recognize the quinone-
infected protein cells and call in an army of white blood cells.
White blood cells have a scorched-earth approach to fighting an invader.
They basically kill everything in the area of the recognized problem - in
this case quinone bound to skin cells.
Cells die and fluids from the dying cells are released producing a
blistering rash. More fluid oozes from blood vessels and lymph systems
and cell death causes breakdown of skin tissue. This process continues
until all the quinone-affected skin cells are gone. This can take a
couple of days, but in severe cases may take several weeks. "
ChairMan
Mel Knight <Mel...@aol.com> spewed forth:
Try to find some maannequin hands that are as big as your hands and stretch
the wet gloves on them to dry
Smitty Two
Mel Knight <Mel...@aol.com> wrote:
> What I'm trying to find out is how to WASH the gloves without having them
> SHRINK two sizes on me!
Leather shrinks when you wash and dry it. And poison oak oils penetrate
leather anyway, so they're the wrong type of glove for your work.
On the one hand I admire your courage, tackling a veritable forest of
poison oak. On the other, I think you're a stubborn fool for insisting
on a way to unshrink leather rather than using something more
appropriate.
The Daring Dufas
Aren't there some surplus space suits left over from the old Soviet
Space Program? I could have sworn I saw some being auctioned online.
TDD
The Daring Dufas
I used to buy a product called Liquid Glove that you rub on your skin
and let it dry. It protects your skin from all sorts of things and when
your done, you wash it off. I think I got it a W W Grainger. I don't
know if it would help you with your task but it's something to look at.
http://www.tripointpro.com/servlet/Categories
TDD
Mel Knight
> And poison oak oils penetrate
> leather anyway, so they're the wrong type of glove for your work.
I certainly have read that. Oils certainly do penetrate leather. But, the
proof is in the pudding. My hands don't get poison oak rash while other
parts of my body do so they must be working (yes, I know the palms are
thick skin, but, not the rest of the hand, especially between the
fingers).
Also, I've looked at the blotches of black stains on the gloves (did you
see the photo I posted?) and those black blotches of oxidized urushiol do
NOT penetrate the leather.
> you're a stubborn fool for insisting on a way to unshrink leather
> rather than using something more appropriate.
Whatever gloves I use must be pliable (I pull vines for four hours at a
stretch) and washable, yet prevent tears and they must be really long.
I looked at 'extrication' gloves, but most I saw were not washable.
Rubber would be ridiculous (doesn't have the pliability).
Do you have ideas for poison oak gloves?
Requirements:
- Should cost less than somewhere around fifty dollars (these are work
gloves, after all)
- Must cover the wrists at least as much as welder's gloves
- Must be wholly washable
- Must be reasonably durable
- Must be reasonably pliable (enough to grasp pencil-thin vines for hours
at a stretch in addition to wrist-sized ones)
- Must protect the hands (so they need to be 'reasonably' thick
If you have gloves that fit the bill - I'm all ears!
Vic Smith
wrote:
>
>Requirements:
>- Should cost less than somewhere around fifty dollars (these are work
>gloves, after all)
>- Must cover the wrists at least as much as welder's gloves
>- Must be wholly washable
>- Must be reasonably durable
>- Must be reasonably pliable (enough to grasp pencil-thin vines for hours
>at a stretch in addition to wrist-sized ones)
>- Must protect the hands (so they need to be 'reasonably' thick
>
>If you have gloves that fit the bill - I'm all ears!
What are you, a professional poison ivy remover? (-:
Washable is the big fly in the ointment.
If they're lined they won't wash well.
You can google cuffed rubber gloves.
I'd use an unlined rubber glove.
If you put on a pair of cheap disposable food handling gloves first
you won't stink up the rubber gloves. Nitrile I think.
My kid uses them for some automotive dirty work.
Every pair of rubber gloves - lined or unlined - I've ever encountered
stunk after being used a few times.
My wife uses cotton rubber coated gloves for weed pulling.
Not for poison ivy, but barb/thorn/thistle protection.
Picks them up at cheapo stores when she sees them.
I've handled them, and they're pretty stiff, but she can pull pretty
small weeds with them.
She never washes them, just throws them away if they get too stinky.
Can't you just spray something that kills the poison ivy juice on the
gloves? Or just wash the outside with soap and water?
--Vic
The Real Bev
I've never heard of actually washing work gloves. If I were you I'd use
the cheap leather-palm ones and just throw them away when they wear out
-- and NEVER touch the outside with your fingers. My work gloves get
big holes in the fingers (repairable with duct tape, of course) long
before I'd consider washing them, but I'm not dealing with poison
oak/ivy, either.
I've got some nice goatskin gardening gloves, but they're too good to
use :-) I used to turn them inside out (like the rest of the dirtbags)
and use them for motorcycle gloves.
--
Cheers, Bev
===========================================================
An organizer for the "Million Agoraphobics March" expressed
disappointment in the turnout for last weekend's event.
Tooth Sucking Idiot
> I buy deerskin and goatskin leather gloves from the arc-welding shops to
> pull poison oak vines so I'm forced to wash the gloves after use.
>
> Even though I buy XL (the largest size they have in the non-cowhide
> gloves), once it's washed (even in just cold water with air drying), they
> shrink so much, that I can barely fit them on my hands.
>
> I actually doubt there is a solution - but - just in case, may I ask ...
>
> Is there a way to un-shrink leather work gloves?
Oh yeah thats easy.
After you wash them off and get ready for bed put them back on and go
to sleep by the morning they should be dried and you can take them
off. See thinking a little with your brain does not hurt if you do not
let it.
Do you know how to get a goddamned monitoring device out of your back?
DanG
pipe. This stuff is firm but flexible. Get one that works for
your finger size (may require a larger size for the thumb). Just
to try it out, shove the pieces of pipe into the fingers when
sopping wet. This may not keep the fingers long enough, but
should sure maintain the finger diameters.
If the thought works out, you could develop a hand form mounted on
a board to stick the gloves on. This would allow hanging a weight
on the cuffs to prevent the fingers from shortening.
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
DanG
Keep the whole world singing . . .
"Mel Knight" <Mel...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:innu8a$3cu$4...@speranza.aioe.org...
> On Wed, 06 Apr 2011 23:58:14 +0200, Sjouke Burry wrote:
>> While still moist, tightly stuff with shredded newspaper or
>> toilet
>> paper, starting with the fingers. When dry, remove that.
>
> That, I think, is the best suggestion so far.
>
> Of course, it's too late for this set of gloves - but in the
> future it
> will be tried.
>
> Of course, given these arc-welding gloves are mid-wrist in
> length (far
> longer than your typical garden leather gloves), it will be a
> bear to get
> shredded newspaper into or out of the finger holes.
>
aemeijers
> Mel, I would consider getting some diameter of PEX type plastic
> pipe. This stuff is firm but flexible. Get one that works for
> your finger size (may require a larger size for the thumb). Just
> to try it out, shove the pieces of pipe into the fingers when
> sopping wet. This may not keep the fingers long enough, but
> should sure maintain the finger diameters.
>
> If the thought works out, you could develop a hand form mounted on
> a board to stick the gloves on. This would allow hanging a weight
> on the cuffs to prevent the fingers from shortening.
>
Lordy. Go to HF, buy some of the gauntleted rubberized fabric gloves
rated for HazMat cleanup, and get on with your life. Six months after OP
passes away, or is too feeble to cut brush, that back 40 of his will be
impassable again anyway.
Most of us have enough PITA outdoor chores to suck up more than our
available time, without assigning ourselves Augean stables to clean like
that. Toxic plants are Ma Nature's way of saying 'humans keep out'.
--
aem sends...
Mel Knight
> I've got some nice goatskin gardening gloves, but they're too good to
> use :-) I used to turn them inside out (like the rest of the dirtbags)
> and use them for motorcycle gloves.
My motorcycle gloves are kangaroo.
What does turning goatskin gloves inside out actually do for you?
I'm curious.
The Real Bev
Puts the seams on the outside and the smooth side on the indside. What
you don't want in gloves for dirtriding is skin-abrading seams.
--
Cheers, Bev
==========================================================
"It's no piece of cake, but it sure beats listening to Ted
Kennedy on the Senate floor."
- Jesse Helms describing heart surgery
Jesus Mommywas13
Then fuck it. Nothing like stretching out an old piece of leather.
q.paks.en...@gmail.com
We would like to introduce ourselves "Q Paks Com"
as Professional manufacturers & exporters having our own set up not depending on Makers or Vendors, our products range: Jiu Jitsu Uniform & Belts, Karate Uniform, Judo Uniform. T-Shirt, Hoodies, MMA Shorts, Boxing Shorts,
and Boxing Gloves, MMA Gloves, Kick Pad,Head Guard, Focus Mitt and Accessories, All kind of gloves, All Horse Riding product etc.
Thanking you awaiting your favorable response.
With best regards,
Kashif Qasim
***********
Q.PAKS.Com.PK
Pasrur Road, Doburji Araian
Sialkot - 51310 Pakistan
Ph: +92 307 616 9960
E-Mail: q.paks.en...@gmail.com
WEB Site;Q.PAKS.COM
Skype ID: kashif.qasim786
q.paks.en...@gmail.com
q.paks.en...@gmail.com
q.paks.en...@gmail.com
q.paks.en...@gmail.com
q.paks.en...@gmail.com
q.paks.en...@gmail.com
q.paks.en...@gmail.com
Ed Pawlowski
> Dear sir/madam,
>
> We would like to introduce ourselves "Q Paks Com"
friend of mine and he squeezes his hands into them to they do fin. My
buddy, OJ, does this a lot.
Gloves don't fit? Send them to:
O J Simpson
Cell 3549
County Jail
Nevada.
Stormin Mormon
> If I have a pair of gloves that shrunk and don't fit, I give them to a
> friend of mine and he squeezes his hands into them to they do fin. My
> buddy, OJ, does this a lot.
>
> Gloves don't fit? Send them to:
> O J Simpson
> Cell 3549
> County Jail
> Nevada.
>
You think Q Pac's hand shakes a bit on the mouse?
--
.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
Oren
>Gloves don't fit? Send them to:
>O J Simpson
>Cell 3549
>County Jail
>Nevada.
Red Green
news:0fdf03de-923f-4ecf...@googlegroups.com:
> Dear sir/madam,
>
I am sorry-ski. I could not quite understand your information-ski. Could
you please repost it in Polish-ski?
Anxiously awaiting your reply-ski.
Red Green-ski...
Note to Ed P: No help-ski the OP-ski.
Leslie landberg
>
> I buy deerskin and goatskin leather gloves from the arc-welding shops to
> pull poison oak vines so I'm forced to wash the gloves after use.
> Even though I buy XL (the largest size they have in the non-cowhide
> gloves), once it's washed (even in just cold water with air drying), they
> shrink so much, that I can barely fit them on my hands.
> I actually doubt there is a solution - but - just in case, may I ask ...
> Is there a way to un-shrink leather work gloves?
logically a strong dish soap is ideal in removing the oils, just don your
dish gloves and wash them thoroughly in the sink. Dry well in towelling
and simply wear the gloves until they are nearly dry, then rub well with
goatskin glove moisturizers/protectants and wear them a bit longer. All
will be well. The gloves dry quickly when you wear them. The whole
process should take about half an hour.
--
TDHeller
*TRY THIS* Sandbox sand is CHEAP 6.00 50#. Fill gloves with sand and top off
with paper towel to hold in the sand.
In the Oven at about 200 F for 30-45 min - or dry. I'm doing mine now :)
--
for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/how-to-unshrink-all-leather-work-gloves-deerskin-goatskin-628976-.htm
Thomas
Tekkie®
>
> Some years later if still in the battle, may i suggest angent orange?
--
Tekkie
TDHeller
By the Way my gloves came out perfectly dry and not shrunken in the least. The
oven bit is simply to help heat the sand for a more uniform fit. I hope it
works for you - it's now my "Go To " for wet leather gloves.