Solvent for new Thompsons WaterSeal

[Don Phillipson]

Thompsons WaterSeal Advanced has been on the market
for a couple of years. The label promises "Easy soap & water
clean-up," the product apparently reformulated so as to comply
with European Union regulations restricting volatiles.

In practice, soap and water cleanup is by no means "easy."
The product contains some sort of wax that repels water
(and I dare say makes it effective on timber.) But what
sort of solvent can actually dissolve this component
so we can clean our brushes for reuse?
--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)

[dpb]

On 10/05/2014 9:06 AM, Don Phillipson wrote:
> Thompsons WaterSeal Advanced has been on the market

> for a couple of years. The label promises "Easy soap& water

> clean-up," the product apparently reformulated so as to comply
> with European Union regulations restricting volatiles.
>
> In practice, soap and water cleanup is by no means "easy."
> The product contains some sort of wax that repels water
> (and I dare say makes it effective on timber.) But what
> sort of solvent can actually dissolve this component
> so we can clean our brushes for reuse?

If there's no additional info at the Thompson site, I'd suggest looking
at the MSDS and see what is listed as the additive active ingredients.

Or, the simple expedient of starting with the various normal painting
solvents and experiment.

Generally, however, I'd think after the most basic of rinsing out the
"warm water and soap/detergent rule" should be effective as a first
guess of the order of the above solvents...

--

[Norminn]

On 10/5/2014 10:06 AM, Don Phillipson wrote:
> Thompsons WaterSeal Advanced has been on the market
> for a couple of years. The label promises "Easy soap & water
> clean-up," the product apparently reformulated so as to comply
> with European Union regulations restricting volatiles.
>
> In practice, soap and water cleanup is by no means "easy."
> The product contains some sort of wax that repels water
> (and I dare say makes it effective on timber.) But what
> sort of solvent can actually dissolve this component
> so we can clean our brushes for reuse?
>

I was going to suggest mineral spirits, as it is most used as solvent
for paste waxes, but decided to look further. Thompson's website sucks,
and I could not find MSDS, but here is a link to more clean-up:
http://www.thompsonswaterseal.com/waterproofing-products/multisurface-waterproofers/advanced-clear-multi-surface-waterproofer

For DRIED overspray, they suggest mineral spirits or paint thinner.

[nestork]

'Don Phillipson[_3_ Wrote:
> ;3292416']Thompsons WaterSeal Advanced has been on the market

One of the reasons why it can be hard to remove water wash-up coatings
from a paint brush is because the wet coating gets drawn high up into
the "heel" of the brush by capillary pressure. The stuff that gets
drawn up into that area where the bristles are tightly packed together
will dry there while you're painting and result in "shaggy dog" paint
brushes where the bristles are spread out and the heel of the brush is
hard as a rock.

One way to avoid that problem is to wash the brush out in water and
shaking out the excess water BEFORE using it, and to periodically add
some water to the bristles near the ferrule using an eye dropper.

Doing that ensures that there's water high up in the bristles which will
prevent the water-clean-up coating you're applying from drying up and
hardening in that area, thereby ruining the paint brush.

You can buy an eye dropper for less than $2 at any pharmacy.

If your brush is already hard with dried up stuff, I would dip the brush
bristles in acetone or lacquer thinner, working the brush bristles after
each dipping. Don't just leave the brush bristles soaking in either
solvent. I expect both solvents would probably dissolve the Thompson's
Water seal but you can check to see which one works better by dipping a
Q-tip in either solvent and using that wet Q-tip to clean a small area
of that Thompson's water seal. Clean in an area where light reflects
off the Thompson water seal. If the solvent dissolves the stuff, the
surface of the area you cleaned will be rough and will scatter light
diffusely rather than specularly. That is, the cleaned surface will be
dull instead of glossy.




--
nestork

[Frank]

I used a paint roller to apply mine last year and just rinsed it off
when done. It was good enough to use this year and will be used next year.

[acidifi...@gmail.com]

Looking for solution NOT some jackass opinion of product !!

[Frank]

Paraffin wax requires hydrocarbon solvent. I'd do best with soap and
water first then maybe paint thinner.

I've used product before and after reformulation to remove VOC's and
once mediocre product is now even poorer in protecting wood.

[Ed Pawlowski]

On 7/9/2018 8:56 AM, acidifi...@gmail.com wrote:

> Looking for solution NOT some jackass opinion of product !!
>
>

Not jackass, they are real opinions of the product by people that used
it. Just because you don't like them does not mean they are not valid.

[Gary]

-----------------------------------------------------------------
Well I've been a painter all my life and I am familiar with this
product.

First of all, the old Thompsons Waterseal was oil based and a
decent product. The clear seal, you could even put it in a garden
sprayer and flood it on. I comes thin as water. Then just wipe up
what didn't soak into the wood. Usually just a few spots on a
wood deck.

As far as the newer products that are water-based... They are
thicker and harder to use and require application with a brush.
Too thick to spray and you don't ever want to thin any water
sealer.

Here is the way to clean your brushes properly for reuse.

- wash brush thoroughly with soap and water
- kick out the water from your brush
- immediately rinse brush in paint thinners
- then kick out the thinners (not on your grass)
- then do the soap and water thing one more time.
- kick out the water, shape the bristles and wrap
in newspaper tightly until it dries over night
- put brush back in original sleeve the next morning

This is not "random internet advice." I've done this for
a living for about 100 years now. I do know what works and
what doesn't. :)

Note: if anyone still sells the old oil-based Thompsons,
grab it up and use it. It's much cheaper yet superior, imo.
Enviromentalists are making good paint products go way.
No matter what brand you buy all clear sealers say to do
it once a year for best protection.

[Frank]

Confirms my opinion. I had used both old and new products several times
myself. As a retired chemist, I have seen many a formally fine product
ruined by the environmentalists.

Discussed the travails of getting a new Trex deck last year in ng. Cost
a lot more than wood but looks great and relieves me of the annual
staining burden.

[webg...@gmail.com]

Hey Don,

Did you ever get a sufficient answer? Which worked best for you? Also, I'm going to be using this product for the first time. In fact, it will be my first time using any type of water sealer. What kind of brush is recommended to apply Advanced?

[Nancy]

replying to Don Phillipson, Nancy wrote:
We are having the same issue. Did you get any info on cleaning the
roller/brush?

--
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