I did some quick online research and learned that the problem was most
likely due to a faulty 220V power connection. The appliance was still
getting 110v power because the clock/timer display and LED lights were
still working on the oven control unit.
I spent about 30 minutes checking and tightening all of the
connections and afterwards the 220v power supply was restored and the
range started working properly again.
I took pictures of the whole procedure and created a quick guide to
help out anyone else who may be experiencing the same problem with
their range.
Here's the photo album -
http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Kenmore-Electric-Range-Burners-Oven-220V-Repair-Guide
Don't forget to unplug everything and turn off the power before you
begin! Good luck.
Cheers,
Paul Michaels
Ft. Lauderdale, FL
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Paul Michaels" <PaulMich...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:b6da7de7-3a66-4de0...@b1g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Paul Michaels" <PaulMich...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:b6da7de7-3a66-4de0...@b1g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
You did a very fine job on the site. It is an excellent guide for
determining the locations to look for loose or open connections. I only have
one problem, you never found the smoking gun. If you don't find the
definitive cause and repair it, you can bet it will return. Your pictures
are very clear, and make it apparent where the problem is. The problem is
inside the 50 amp range receptacle, which is what caused the burn on the
prong of the male cord set. At this point, the internal, non serviceable
connection of that part of the outlet is still bad, and unless you replace
the outlet, you can bet the problem will reoccur
I agree. It appears that there was no other apparent evidence to suggest
that the problem was anywhere else but in the receptacle. I think that
replacing the receptacle will be good for the long term. Incidentally I
noticed that there was no connector or bushing on the opening where the cord
enters the stove. You should have a connector there to provide strain
relief and more importantly to shield the cord from sharp metal edges.
I applaud you on your thoroughness and safety concerns during the process
and I thank you for taking the time to take pictures so that others may
learn from your experience.
Non-servicable, my aunt fannie!
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"RBM" <r...@noemail.com> wrote in message
news:4900e73f$0$5645$607e...@cv.net...
The problem is
This is not a surface mounted receptacle that comes apart. It is a flush
mounted type, riveted together. When a bad electrical contact reaches the
point where you have an open circuit, the metal becomes annealed from
overheating and no longer conducts electricity well, regardless of how much
anti ox paste you lather it in. For the $10 a new outlet costs, it's not
worth wasting time with the old one
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"RBM" <r...@noemail.com> wrote in message
news:490118b3$0$4876$607e...@cv.net...