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Kenmore Electric Range - Oven & Burners Not Working - Repair Guide

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Paul Michaels

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Oct 23, 2008, 2:53:25 PM10/23/08
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This past weekend the oven heating element and stove top burners on
our Kenmore electric range stopped working.

I did some quick online research and learned that the problem was most
likely due to a faulty 220V power connection. The appliance was still
getting 110v power because the clock/timer display and LED lights were
still working on the oven control unit.

I spent about 30 minutes checking and tightening all of the
connections and afterwards the 220v power supply was restored and the
range started working properly again.

I took pictures of the whole procedure and created a quick guide to
help out anyone else who may be experiencing the same problem with
their range.

Here's the photo album -
http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Kenmore-Electric-Range-Burners-Oven-220V-Repair-Guide

Don't forget to unplug everything and turn off the power before you
begin! Good luck.

Cheers,
Paul Michaels
Ft. Lauderdale, FL

Stormin Mormon

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Oct 23, 2008, 3:54:00 PM10/23/08
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Thanks for the web page and photos. Many repairs are something simple, as
you have found. Very well done, sir.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.


"Paul Michaels" <PaulMich...@gmail.com> wrote in message
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Stormin Mormon

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Oct 23, 2008, 4:06:15 PM10/23/08
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* Probably the big plug was dirty. You cleaned it, and now it can flow
electric.
* I don't like Sears. I used to work for them, and didn't like what I saw.
I also don't like the way they make off-spec parts. Sears products often
can't use the usual repair parts by the brands that made the whatever.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.


"Paul Michaels" <PaulMich...@gmail.com> wrote in message
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RBM

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Oct 23, 2008, 5:06:20 PM10/23/08
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"Paul Michaels" <PaulMich...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:b6da7de7-3a66-4de0...@b1g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...

You did a very fine job on the site. It is an excellent guide for
determining the locations to look for loose or open connections. I only have
one problem, you never found the smoking gun. If you don't find the
definitive cause and repair it, you can bet it will return. Your pictures
are very clear, and make it apparent where the problem is. The problem is
inside the 50 amp range receptacle, which is what caused the burn on the
prong of the male cord set. At this point, the internal, non serviceable
connection of that part of the outlet is still bad, and unless you replace
the outlet, you can bet the problem will reoccur


John Grabowski

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Oct 23, 2008, 6:20:03 PM10/23/08
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"RBM" <r...@noemail.com> wrote in message
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I agree. It appears that there was no other apparent evidence to suggest
that the problem was anywhere else but in the receptacle. I think that
replacing the receptacle will be good for the long term. Incidentally I
noticed that there was no connector or bushing on the opening where the cord
enters the stove. You should have a connector there to provide strain
relief and more importantly to shield the cord from sharp metal edges.

I applaud you on your thoroughness and safety concerns during the process
and I thank you for taking the time to take pictures so that others may
learn from your experience.

Stormin Mormon

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Oct 23, 2008, 8:07:17 PM10/23/08
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Remove big black cover. Sand socket contacts with disposable nail file. Gook
with No-Al-Ox and reassemble with a squirt of grey noalox in the socket.
Problem solved for next many years.

Non-servicable, my aunt fannie!

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"RBM" <r...@noemail.com> wrote in message
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The problem is

RBM

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Oct 23, 2008, 8:36:42 PM10/23/08
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"Stormin Mormon" <cayoung61**spamblock##@hotmail.com> wrote in message
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> Remove big black cover. Sand socket contacts with disposable nail file.
> Gook
> with No-Al-Ox and reassemble with a squirt of grey noalox in the socket.
> Problem solved for next many years.
>
> Non-servicable, my aunt fannie!

This is not a surface mounted receptacle that comes apart. It is a flush
mounted type, riveted together. When a bad electrical contact reaches the
point where you have an open circuit, the metal becomes annealed from
overheating and no longer conducts electricity well, regardless of how much
anti ox paste you lather it in. For the $10 a new outlet costs, it's not
worth wasting time with the old one

Stormin Mormon

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Oct 24, 2008, 8:12:57 AM10/24/08
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Well, you are there to see it. I'm pleased you got it working again.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.


"RBM" <r...@noemail.com> wrote in message

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Jmmv08

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Oct 28, 2008, 10:10:07 AM10/28/08
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Thanks for the link and good info. I will put this in my list. Great
job.
Posted from the Free Home Improvement Forum at http://www.spicyhome.com

mkpa...@gmail.com

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Dec 8, 2019, 9:08:06 PM12/8/19
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Thank you so much for the breakdown of that! We ran into that exact same problem today, and we lucked out with it being some minor corrosion on the plug. It saved us a hefty service charge and got done in minutes ^_^

micky

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Dec 9, 2019, 1:45:42 AM12/9/19
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Same question. Here is a post by mkpatzer quoted, but where was his
original post posted. It's not on Alt.home.repair

In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 8 Dec 2019 18:08:00 -0800 (PST),
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