Attaching a tap to plastic barrel
Richard Crane
A year or so ago I bought a 40gal barrel made of thick(~ 1/4") blue
plastic, to use to store rain water for my vegetable garden. It has a
sealed top with a 4" diameter hole which serves to fill it. I've tried
mounting a faucet to the side in order to attach a hose, but can't come
up with a way to seal it: the problem is that the faucet's flat flange
won't sit flat against the curved side of the barrel (about 28"
diameter).
I tried big sheet metal screws with coarse threads into the plastic, but
still get enough play that the joint leaks. I'm afraid to tighten the
screws anymore, because I think they will pull out of the plastic barrel
side. I'e tried acrylic caulk, but it doesn't seem to stick to the
plastic.
Any suggestions gratefully accepted. (email would be appreciated.)
Richard S. Crane / crane-...@yale.edu
David A. Stuart, Sr.
>I've tried mounting a faucet to the side in order to attach a hose
Richard,
If possible, simply elevate the barrel a few inches( on a few 8" concrete
blocks or pressure treated 6x6 blocks ) and attach the hose bib to the
flat _bottom_ of the barrel.
Dave Stuart
Baltimore
Paul F. Blomberg, P.E.
Richard Crane <crane-...@yale.edu> wrote:
>A year or so ago I bought a 40gal barrel made of thick(~ 1/4") blue
>plastic, to use to store rain water for my vegetable garden. It has a
>sealed top with a 4" diameter hole which serves to fill it. I've tried
>mounting a faucet to the side in order to attach a hose, but can't come
>up with a way to seal it: the problem is that the faucet's flat flange
>won't sit flat against the curved side of the barrel (about 28"
> diameter).
>I tried big sheet metal screws with coarse threads into the plastic, but
>still get enough play that the joint leaks. I'm afraid to tighten the
>screws anymore, because I think they will pull out of the plastic barrel
>side. I'e tried acrylic caulk, but it doesn't seem to stick to the
>plastic.
I'd use the flanged faucet with a flexible sealant {silicone). Use a
thick layer and through bolt it into the barrel. Do not tighten it
all the way down. Let the silicone sit. After it is totally set up,
snug up the bolts and then seal the inside of the drun where the bolts
come through.
Good Luck.
Paul.
David Baggaley
Unfortunately most sealants don't stick to this plastic. I found this out
building a river raft with these barrels but thats a totally different thread.
Try bolting a pipe flange to the barrel. Pipe flanges are available at most
good hardware stores in the plumbing section. Bolt through the side of the
barrel and use another flange ( or something similar ) on the inside to keep
the bolts from pulling through. Bolting it up tight will deform the barrel side
flat.
Put a rubber gasket between the barrel and the outer flange to seal it. Screw
the tap into the pipe thread.
It's a bit of an extreme solution but should work.
Dave
Richard Crane <crane-...@yale.edu> wrote:
>A year or so ago I bought a 40gal barrel made of thick(~ 1/4") blue
>plastic, to use to store rain water for my vegetable garden. It has a
>sealed top with a 4" diameter hole which serves to fill it. I've tried
>mounting a faucet to the side in order to attach a hose, but can't come
>up with a way to seal it: the problem is that the faucet's flat flange
>won't sit flat against the curved side of the barrel (about 28"
> diameter).
>I tried big sheet metal screws with coarse threads into the plastic, but
>still get enough play that the joint leaks. I'm afraid to tighten the
>screws anymore, because I think they will pull out of the plastic barrel
>side. I'e tried acrylic caulk, but it doesn't seem to stick to the
>plastic.
>
>Any suggestions gratefully accepted. (email would be appreciated.)
>
>Richard S. Crane / crane-...@yale.edu
--
Dave Baggaley, RCTB, Thunder Bay, Ontario
mailto:bagg...@raven.wqt.on.doe.ca
WARNING: I e-mail bomb ALL unsolicited junk e-mail. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!
B.Carty
Try automotive silicone available from any auto supply shop.
It seals and sticks to just about anything. I've used it on a number of
"leaky" jobs and It hasn't failed me yet. It's a pretty good glue too.
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh
Richard Crane <crane-...@yale.edu> wrote:
>>sealed top with a 4" diameter hole which serves to fill it. I've tried
>mounting a faucet to the side in order to attach a hose, but can't come
>up with a way to seal it: the problem is that the faucet's flat flange
>won't sit flat against the curved side of the barrel (about 28"
There's a commercial plumbing device available for just that purpose. It's
called a bulkhead fitting. Most plastics companies (like Commonwealth Plastics
or US Bag Company) carry it for adding spigots to plastic drums.
It consists of a big washer and flat nut which screw onto a threaded pipe from
the INSIDE of the drum (which also means you have to be able to support the nut
from the inside, until you get it tight). It's not hard to install, and cheap.
You might just check a plumbing supply, and see if they carry bulkhead
fittings.
LLoyd
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh
bca...@nortel.ca (B.Carty) wrote:
>
>Try automotive silicone available from any auto supply shop.
>It seals and sticks to just about anything. I've used it on a number of
>"leaky" jobs and It hasn't failed me yet. It's a pretty good glue too.
NO glue properly adheres to high-density polyethylene, which is what those
barrels are made of. The only glue which even _sticks_ is rubber-based
construction adhesive. And it peels off pretty easily.
Mechanical means are the only means by which you'll get a fitting onto that
drum. Bulkhead fittings are designed JUST for that purpose.
LLoyd
R. Totman
>Richard Crane <crane-...@yale.edu> wrote:
>>A year or so ago I bought a 40gal barrel made of thick(~ 1/4") blue
>>plastic, to use to store rain water for my vegetable garden. It has a
>>sealed top with a 4" diameter hole which serves to fill it. I've tried
>>mounting a faucet to the side in order to attach a hose, but can't come
>>up with a way to seal it: the problem is that the faucet's flat flange
>>won't sit flat against the curved side of the barrel (about 28"
>> diameter).
>>I tried big sheet metal screws with coarse threads into the plastic, but
>>still get enough play that the joint leaks. I'm afraid to tighten the
>>screws anymore, because I think they will pull out of the plastic barrel
>>side. I'e tried acrylic caulk, but it doesn't seem to stick to the
>>plastic.
>>
>>Any suggestions gratefully accepted. (email would be appreciated.)
>>
>>Richard S. Crane / crane-...@yale.edu
>
Do you really need to keep the top on the barrel? If you cut it
off, or at least enlarge the hole so that you can reach well inside the
barrel, you could then use a normal bulkhead fitting. These have a fixed
flange as part of the piece that goes through the wall of the barrel and
a threaded flange to screw on to this from the inside. A rubber washer
should be used inside and ouside the barrel wall to ensure a leak-free job.
A regular stop cock with a hose bib will screw directly on to the bulkhead
fitting. The stop cock doesn't really need to be right at the bottom of the
barrel, so it will be easier to reach inside to screw the inner flange up
tight.
Regards, Ralph.
Dave Smith
I have the perfect method. I have done it several times and it is
foolproof. The adapter you need is called a meyers hub it is an
waterproof electrical fitting. To install it you drill a 7/8" hole in
the barrel, put the fitting into the hole and then install the locknut
on the inside, then tighten up. I have done this with complete
barrels and they make excellent 45 gallon waterers for my chickens.
If you need more advice feel free to e-mail me
>>
>> Richard Crane <crane-...@yale.edu> wrote:
>> >A year or so ago I bought a 40gal barrel made of thick(~ 1/4") blue
>> >plastic, to use to store rain water for my vegetable garden. It has a
>> >sealed top with a 4" diameter hole which serves to fill it. I've tried
>> >mounting a faucet to the side in order to attach a hose, but can't come
>> >up with a way to seal it: the problem is that the faucet's flat flange
>> >won't sit flat against the curved side of the barrel (about 28"
>> > diameter).
Water Valley, Alberta, Canada