Attach baseboard to concrete block?
TomC
meets a drywall ceiling. What's the best/easy way to do it without
cracking/splitting out the block? TIA
Limp Arbor
Liquid Nails
TomC
news:d2e98211-c22e-4dd5...@t26g2000prh.googlegroups.com:
I was thinking along that line, but wasn't sure if the baseboard would stay
in place long enough for the adhesive to set?
dpb
No, it won't initially w/o some help.
Easiest solution is to use a backer board mounted w/ powder-actuated
nails and put the finish board over it. That, of course, adds an extra
layer you might not want.
Having one, I'd at least try to shoot a few powder-actuated nails w/ low
loads--it should be ok w/ filling for painting.
Lacking that, I'd use the cut nail in a joint if the masonry is good;
often it will hold w/o crumbling. A short masonry or cut nail in the
block may also be doable depending on the actual block; some are much
harder than others.
After that you're to one of the drilling/anchor solutions; take your
pick of poison there... :)
--
TomC
> No, it won't initially w/o some help.
>
> Easiest solution is to use a backer board mounted w/ powder-actuated
> nails and put the finish board over it. That, of course, adds an
> extra layer you might not want.
>
> Having one, I'd at least try to shoot a few powder-actuated nails w/
> low loads--it should be ok w/ filling for painting.
>
> Lacking that, I'd use the cut nail in a joint if the masonry is good;
> often it will hold w/o crumbling. A short masonry or cut nail in the
> block may also be doable depending on the actual block; some are much
> harder than others.
>
> After that you're to one of the drilling/anchor solutions; take your
> pick of poison there... :)
>
> --
I'm leaning toward adhesive with a couple of cut nails in the mortar to
anchor it while the adhesive drys. I wonder if roofing cement or a
flooring cement would work better; e.g. hold the baseboard without it
slipping down the wall?
TomC
> No, it won't initially w/o some help.
>
> Easiest solution is to use a backer board mounted w/ powder-actuated
> nails and put the finish board over it. That, of course, adds an
> extra layer you might not want.
>
> Having one, I'd at least try to shoot a few powder-actuated nails w/
> low loads--it should be ok w/ filling for painting.
>
> Lacking that, I'd use the cut nail in a joint if the masonry is good;
> often it will hold w/o crumbling. A short masonry or cut nail in the
> block may also be doable depending on the actual block; some are much
> harder than others.
>
> After that you're to one of the drilling/anchor solutions; take your
> pick of poison there... :)
>
> --
I'm leaning toward adhesive with a couple of cut nails in the mortar to
Jim Elbrecht
-snip-
>I'm leaning toward adhesive with a couple of cut nails in the mortar to
>anchor it while the adhesive drys.
Try the nails with no glue first someplace inconspicuous. Then, if
you're like me and have terrible luck with those nails not just
breaking chunks of block, you don't need to clean up the adhesive
mess.
> I wonder if roofing cement or a
>flooring cement would work better; e.g. hold the baseboard without it
>slipping down the wall?
>
I'd trust liquid nails and just brace it overnight. I couldn't
begin to guess *how* I'd brace it without sitting there staring at it
with a cold/hot beverage for a spell.
Jim
HeyBub
If duct tape is out of the question, think combination Liquid Nails and
contact cement.
I just tried a can of "3M Hi-Strength 90 Spray Adhesive." That stuff will
glue an ice-cube to an after-taco belch.
Oren
I have not tried this product:
LoctiteŽ Power GrabŽ Construction Adhesive is a latex-based adhesive
that is strong, safe and easy to use for a wide array of home repair
projects.
The adhesive formula features the highest initial tack on the market,
reducing the need to brace or reinforce items, thus saving time.
Loctite Power Grab is strong enough to permanently mount paneling yet
safe enough to get on your hands. The environmentally-friendly formula
is odor-free, non-flammable, non-carcinogen and can be cleaned up with
water.
Claims no need for bracing. Page bottom
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/
3M may also have an "insta bond" type product.
tmu...@juno.com
Why do you want to use baseboard at the top of the wall? A smaller
moulding would look better and be much lighter.
TomC
>
> http://www.loctiteproducts.com/
>
> 3M may also have an "insta bond" type product.
This looks good. I'll have to try it. Thanks!
Limp Arbor
Run a bead of Liquid Nails
press it in place then pull off
wait a few minutes until it starts to skin
press it back into place
you *should* be able to hold it in place with blue painters tape if it
doesn't stay on its own
A finish nail or two driven at an angle into the ceiling joists would
also keep it from falling down. I tend to agree with another poster
that said baseboard might look too heavy along the ceiling, but you
may be trying to cover a gap (Joist, mudsill, block wall?).
You may also want to consider MDF molding, very easy to cut and it is
lighter and more flexible then wood. It is usually cheaper and comes
pre-primed. I used it for basedboard in my current house and it was
great to work with when installing and painting but I would never use
it again because it is not durable. But along the ceiling you aren't
going to have many people banging into it with vaccums or barbie
corvettes.
Ed Pawlowski
"TomC" <x...@xxx.com> wrote in message
>>
>> Liquid Nails
>>
>
> I was thinking along that line, but wasn't sure if the baseboard would
> stay
> in place long enough for the adhesive to set?
Polyurethane construction adhesive. Remember the ads on TV a while back
where the guy glues his neighbor's hammer to the ceiling? Held it for maybe
10 seconds. I for get the brand, but read the labels.
TomC
> but you
> may be trying to cover a gap (Joist, mudsill, block wall?).
Exactly!
> You may also want to consider MDF molding, very easy to cut and it is
The space is a basement garage. The area above is living space. My intent
is to cover the gap with something that would act as a fire stop. Had an
electrician not used the space to run some electrical wiring, I could have
just nailed into the sill plate. Hence the need to fasten to the block.
charlie
<snip>
> You may also want to consider MDF molding, very easy to cut and it is
> lighter and more flexible then wood. It is usually cheaper and comes
> pre-primed. I used it for basedboard in my current house and it was
> great to work with when installing and painting but I would never use
> it again because it is not durable. But along the ceiling you aren't
> going to have many people banging into it with vaccums or barbie
> corvettes.
mdf is heavier than wood.
they make foam moulding which would be very light and held with
adhesive easily.
RicodJour
>
> I'd trust liquid nails and just brace it overnight. I couldn't
> begin to guess *how* I'd brace it without sitting there staring at it
> with a cold/hot beverage for a spell.
A few 1x3 springboards would do the trick. Just cut the 1x3s an inch
long and wedge them into place under the molding at suitable
intervals. That'll hold it while the adhesive sets.
R