Pool light repair...T-3 ceramic socket

Oren

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Jun 3, 2012, 4:31:23 PM6/3/12

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See number 10 on the link. I went to replace the lamp bulb (and
gasket kit) with new and broke the tube. It inserts from one end
(right side) and then fits into the left side socket. I figured it had
a spring load on the right side end. Place the tube in and got it
bound-up (needs a slight diagonal for install). Trying to maneuver it,
I broke the lamp ($3).

Okay. Bought a new two pack set (another brand). Before I break
another, can the T-3 ceramic socket be damaged? (hard to tell as you
can't really see the socket. When I pulled the pool light housing for
this seemly simple repair, the former lamp bulb was inside the light
can bottom with both ends and broken glass.

<http://saradec.com/parts_diagrams/611.JPG>

Would just the right side be spring loaded?

A halogen lamp with DO NOT TOUCH instructions. Tells me not to touch
it (fingerprints) . In another world it says clean with alcohol..

Experiences with this type, please...?

RBM

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Jun 3, 2012, 5:35:43 PM6/3/12

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What a crappy lamp to use in a pool fixture!! One side is spring loaded.
It's possible that the spring is no good, from the high heat of the
lamp. You can get generic replacements at an electrical supply. The
lamps get so hot, you don't want oil from your fingers left on the
glass, as it'll shorten the life of the already short lived lamp.

Molly Brown

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Jun 3, 2012, 6:38:20 PM6/3/12

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One advise I can give is that you don’t have to necessarily use a
300W. bulb. You can use a lesser wattage. It will not give-off as much
light but will last a lot longer.
If you ever have to replace the entire fixture try to get one that
uses a screw in type bulb.

hr(bob) hofmann@att.net

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Jun 3, 2012, 8:51:15 PM6/3/12

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AVOID!

Tomsic

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Jun 4, 2012, 8:52:44 AM6/4/12

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"Oren" <Or...@127.0.0.1> wrote in message
news:m4ins79ruqbff7l3n...@4ax.com...

Here's what I know based upon several years experience with these T-3 linear
halogen lamps:

- Buy a well-known brand; the junk lamps are not as sturdy. What happens is
that the ceramic cement at one end or the other breaks and the socket comes
loose.
- Usually, only one end uses a spring-loaded socket; but a few fixtures use
springs at both ends.
- The sockets, spring loaded or not, are rugged and massive as they conduct
heat away from the ends of the lamp and keep the seals (where the wire comes
through the glass or quartz) below their failure temperature.
- Check the fixture specs to see if your fixtures are designed to operate
out of water. Some aren't and the fixture will overheat wrecking the
fixture water seals as well as the lamp.
- Don't worry about finger prints and lamp failure. It's just good
practice to clean the lamp with a tissue after it's installed (and clean the
inside of the fixture too - especially the glass lens); but I've never seen
a lamp fail because of finger prints. At worst, the surface of the lamp
becomes slightly diffuse over time.
- The "Do Not Touch" instructions are there for two reasons: (1) The surface
of the lamp is very hot during operation and remains hot for quite a while
after the lamp is turned off. Touching the lamp when hot will do major
damage instantly to fingers. Anything flammable touching the lamp will also
instantly burst into flame. (2) Manufacturers figure the the warning will
result in the lamp being handled carefully and kept clean -- as it should
be.

Always change the lamp with the power off, of course.

Tomsic

bud--

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Jun 4, 2012, 11:19:26 AM6/4/12

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On 6/4/2012 6:52 AM, Tomsic wrote:
>
> - Don't worry about finger prints and lamp failure. It's just good
> practice to clean the lamp with a tissue after it's installed (and clean the
> inside of the fixture too - especially the glass lens); but I've never seen
> a lamp fail because of finger prints. At worst, the surface of the lamp
> becomes slightly diffuse over time.

I have seen lamps bulge because of finger prints.

I usually try to not touch the lamp (or clean it) then install it using
a piece of paper towel.

>
> Always change the lamp with the power off, of course.

Interesting it is 12 volt.

But all good advice.

--
bud--

Oren

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Jun 4, 2012, 1:27:35 PM6/4/12

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On Sun, 03 Jun 2012 13:31:23 -0700, Oren <Or...@127.0.0.1> wrote:

Item 10 (120V):

><http://saradec.com/parts_diagrams/611.JPG>

Thank you all for the replies. I removed the reflectors in the niche
can to further examine the sockets for damage. The spring is larger
than I expected (circumference of a penny) - maybe 5/8" long. Likely
stainless steel? Used a screwdriver to plunge the spring a couple of
times. It had no damage from heat or anything of that nature. Placed
the reflectors back on and using a soft rag (not paper towel which I
had used before) the lamp went in much easier. Appears the first lamp
was an inferior quality (marked FEIT brand), plus the spring may have
been stuck.

I just have to put the new gasket seal in and button up the light <G>.
It is supposed to be submerged under water before turning the light on
because of the heat from the lamp.

I appreciate the ideas and help....

Oren

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Jun 4, 2012, 1:31:57 PM6/4/12

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On Mon, 04 Jun 2012 09:19:26 -0600, bud-- <remove....@isp.com>
wrote:

>> Always change the lamp with the power off, of course.
>
>Interesting it is 12 volt.

<http://saradec.com/parts_diagrams/611.JPG>

There are two options, 12 volt (#9) and 120 volt (#10). Mine is 120
volt.

I'M ALIVE ;)