Amana Dryer is taking longer
Billccm
My Amana Electric dryer (model LE8327W) is taking longer and longer to dry the
clothes. It seems to heat, yet even on the non automatic timed cycle it takes
about three hours to dry a full load.
I have read that a heating element may partially burn out; any thoughts on
this? Could I use an ohm meter to determine the elements?
Would a cycle thermostat be the best first bet?
Any help is appreciated.
Bill
CBHvac
"Billccm" <bil...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20031122232036...@mb-m16.aol.com...
When was the last time you cleaned the vent to the outside?
EL
minutes, when it is the only thing powered in your home and reading the
electric meter. Compare the watts being dissipated with the rated
dissipation and if they aren't fairly close the element most likely
needs to be replaced. If you have a clip-on ammeter that would also
work. What you describe sounds like a failing element.
Boden
David Efflandt
When you run it for awhile are the cloths hot or not. If hot but damp,
check for plugged vent. If not hot, it could be a heating element.
I had trouble with my gas dryer last spring. I went outside to see if it
was blowing air and a dazed bird flew into my hand on its way out.
Apparently damp lint collected on the outside flapper last winter, keeping
it from closing, and a bird made a nest in the vent, almost totally
blocking it.
--
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jeff
> Hello:
Hi,
> My Amana Electric dryer (model LE8327W) is taking longer and longer to dry the
> clothes. It seems to heat, yet even on the non automatic timed cycle it takes
> about three hours to dry a full load.
Most dryer "to long to dry" or "poor/low heat" complaints can be
traced back to a bad or poor venting system and sometimes a poorly
maintained lint filter. Do not go outside and put your hand under the
vent opening and say " it is fine - I feel air coming out"...that is
not good enough...take your venting apart, clean it ALL out and make
sure the vent hood flapper works and that it is not clogged with lint.
Make sure your venting system is short, straight and resistance free
as possible. A poor venting system will shorten the life of your
dryer, plug up the fan blower and duct work inside your dryer as well.
> I have read that a heating element may partially burn out; any thoughts on
> this? Could I use an ohm meter to determine the elements?
> Would a cycle thermostat be the best first bet?
A grounded heating element, bad thermostat(s), loose/burnt wire, drum
seals, loose/broken fan blower, clogged lint filter can all make the
dryer take longer to dry.
Try a test load with the dryer vent removed ( off ) of the dryer to
see if any better.
jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/
Stormin Mormonn
you have some heat, I'd check air flow.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn More about Jesus
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"Billccm" <bil...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20031122232036...@mb-m16.aol.com...
Phisherman
Move the unit away from the wall and give it a good cleaning with a
shop vac. Clean out the exhaust pipe.
Tony D.
not allow it to heat at all?
Just a thought.
Thanks, Tony D.
effl...@xnet.com (David Efflandt) wrote in message news:<slrnbs0m2f....@typhoon.xnet.com>...
Dan O.
>Billccm wrote
>
>My Amana Electric dryer (model LE8327W) is
>taking longer and longer to dry the clothes. It
>seems to heat, yet even on the non automatic
>timed cycle it takes about three hours to dry
>a full load.
The most common cause of poor drying is a plugged, partially plugged
and/or poorly installed dryer vent. You can read about that at the
following link:
How long can my dryer vent be?
http://ng.appliance411.com/links/jump.cgi?ID=778
>I have read that a heating element may partially
>burn out; any thoughts on this? Could I use an
>ohm meter to determine the elements?
The only way most dryer elements could give only partial heat is if it
was shorted to ground. Once disconnected from it wiring, the element
should be able to be tested for a short to ground using an ohm meter.
In some cases however, it is only when the element heats that it
expands and sags touching a ground so such a short may not be able to
be accurately tested for. A visible inspection for signs of a short
may be necessary to confirm such a failure.
>Would a cycle thermostat be the best first bet?
A thermostat failure is a *slim* possibility for your symptom however
most times a dryer thermostat will either open causing NO heat at all
or be shorted closed making the dryer too hot. It would be fairly
unusually for one to just be inaccurate IMO.
I'd look elsewhere first (and second and third and forth...).
JMO
Dan O.
-
Appliance411.com
http://ng.Appliance411.com/?ref411=Amana+dryer
=Ð~~~~~~
Billccm
Last night I removed the access panel, and vaccumed everything, and I mean
everything. It was pretty dusty in there. I removed the lint screen and
vaccumed, and moved the dryer out and vaccumed the vent opening, vent hose, and
inlet into the vet pipe. I left the access panel off and turned the dryer on,
no clothes, on 'auto-less-dry' cycle.
The heater element glows RED for about three minutes, then I hear a click and
the element dims off. Then the timer moves towards 'cool down', and ten minutes
later the dryer is off.
I put a large load of towels in today, and the dryer ran 2 hours and 20 minutes
on 'auto fabric, less dry' cycle. The heater element would glow RED for three
minutes, then 'click' off for several minutes, then repeat. The heater is NEVER
on for longer then 3 minutes?
I want to keep this dryer because it has stainless steel drums. BTW, how do you
replace the belt? That looks like you need some tricks.
Thanks for any help!
Bill
Bob
If cleaning the vent doesn't solve the problem, try blowing out
all the air passages with an air compressor or leaf blower. Do
this outside. Blow in the vent, in the dust collector hole, in
the air holes at the back of the drum (inside), until you quit
getting crud out. I've completely restored non-working dryers
this way.
Bob
Dan O.
>> Billccm wrote
>>
>> My Amana dryer is taking along time to dry
>> large loads. The model is LE8327W
>>
>> Last night I removed the access panel, and
>> vaccumed everything, and I mean everything. It
>> was pretty dusty in there. I removed the lint
>> screen and vaccumed, and moved the dryer out and
>> vaccumed the vent opening, vent hose, and
>> inlet into the vet pipe.
How about the vent pipe all the way to the outdoors?
>> I left the access panel off and turned the dryer
>> on, no clothes, on 'auto-less-dry' cycle.
>> The heater element glows RED for about three
>> minutes, then I hear a click and the element
>> dims off. Then the timer moves towards 'cool
>> down', and ten minutes later the dryer is off.
>>
>> I put a large load of towels in today, and the
>> dryer ran 2 hours and 20 minutes on 'auto
>> fabric, less dry' cycle.
Did you try a load on the timed cycle to see if it dried properly?
>> The heater element would glow RED for three
>> minutes, then 'click' off for several minutes,
>> then repeat.
That is usually the way dryers control the internal temperature.
>> The heater is NEVER on for longer then 3 minutes?
That may be normal. In order to tell if the thermostats are cycling
the element properly the air temperature where it exits the dryer is
usually observed.
Plugged or partially plugged venting (**anywhere from the inside of
the dryer right to the outdoors**) is one of the most common causes or
poor drying. On an electric dryer it is usually possible to totally
eliminate the venting as a possible cause by running the dryer for a
load or two with the venting totally removed. If drying improves, you
can be sure that the vent is (at least part of) the problem.
>> BTW, how do you replace the belt?
I don't know about your exact model but most Amana dryers are accessed
from the front to replace the drum belt.
CBHvac
"Tony D." <ant3...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:4108ce99.03112...@posting.google.com...
> Is there any possibility one of his 220v legs is out, or would that
> not allow it to heat at all?
> Just a thought.
> Thanks, Tony D.
Good chance then, that his drum would not turn, even if the elements
warmed...altho, good idea.
EL
CBHvac wrote:
> "Tony D." <ant3...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:4108ce99.03112...@posting.google.com...
>
>>Is there any possibility one of his 220v legs is out, or would that
>>not allow it to heat at all?
>> Just a thought.
>> Thanks, Tony D.
>
>
>
> Good chance then, that his drum would not turn, even if the elements
> warmed...altho, good idea.
>
I've had dryers with 120 volt motors, so the drum could turn even with
one leg out.
Boden
andrea...@gmail.com
Uncle Monster
> how can i find my outside vent. i have looke all over, could it be on roof?? my house is old built in 1970.
[8~{} Uncle Venting Monster
Bob
> how can i find my outside vent. i have looke all over, could it be on roof?? my house is old built in 1970.
>
>
>
>
Ed Pawlowski
>
>
>
>
dryer, under a soffit. Can you follow the vent inside?
1970 is not old. My last house was 1948 and not really old. My son's
house was built in 1750 as were many in his area in that era.
Oren
Would a smoke pencil help locate where it vents out?
trader_4
can hear and smell it. Or in winters past, ever notice vapors coming
out? Also possible it goes somewhere it shouldn't, like into the attic.
Uncle Monster
https://www.johnstonesupply.com/storefront/product-view.ep?pID=H26-692
https://www.johnstonesupply.com/storefront/product-view.ep?pID=H26-693
[8~{} Uncle Smoke Monster