Are lawn services like Chemlawn worth it?
Kenric
I just got a call from Chem-Lawn offering to take care of my grass
(not mowing) for the summer. Their application included some type of
crab-grass treatment, pre-treatment, fertilizer, etc..
They are charging about $40 per application which occurs every 6-7
weeks.
They say they guarantee a fuller, green, weed-free grass.
I just had my lawn re-sodded last fall, so I am actually entertaining
this.
Any thoughts?
Kenric
Mark Stiegel
they merged about 5 or 10 years ago SUCK. I still had weeds and dandelions.
When I use a local lawn service, the results were great. Personally, I
think the Chem-lawns don't put down as much or as good stuff as the
independents.
Hint: Drive around and look at yards....when you see one that you like,
find out who does their lawn.
Good luck.
--
Mark
Kenric <biop...@ix.netcom.com> wrote in message
news:3a97060...@nntp.ix.netcom.com...
CL
It's a good service if you don't have the time yourself. The good ones
will come back and re-spray the weeds again if you call them.
I would rather do it myself by buying the treatment packages from the
local hardware store for fraction of the cost. I been doing this for
years and it's no better or worst than when I have someone else doing
it.
--
CL
JmG
>I just got a call from Chem-Lawn offering to take care of my grass
>(not mowing) for the summer. Their application included some type of
>crab-grass treatment, pre-treatment, fertilizer, etc..
Man, all those chemicals!
If the goal is a green, healthy lawn than a good raking followed by a light
application of well composted manure a couple times a season will do the trick.
If the goal is eradication of stray weeds, see the first suggestion. If a few
broad leaf weeds get in a single squirt with roundup on a dry, still evening
will do the trick.
J
Ken Kennedy
>
> biop...@ix.netcom.com (Kenric) wrote:
>
> >I just got a call from Chem-Lawn offering to take care of my grass
> >(not mowing) for the summer. Their application included some type of
> >crab-grass treatment, pre-treatment, fertilizer, etc..
>
> Man, all those chemicals!
I agree!
We got tired of all that c***, so we dug it all up, and installed
groundcover, shrubs, perennials, and a winding path. Looked like H***
for a year or so, then great, so we did the same in the back. Probably
spend a little more time than before "working" on it, but actually we
quite enjoy it (certainly more than mowing and dosing with chemicals).
Now there are 6 or 7 others on our block who have joined our campaign
for a "Lawn Free Zone". Adds a lot of visual interest to the
neighbourhood.
Of course, if we had a huge suburban lot, instead of a small lot in a
downtown neighbourhood, I'd probably have a huge lawn, just so I could
ride a sit-down mower.
kk
rosie@readandpost
> ride a sit-down mower.
> kk
LOL, you sound like my husband and his JOHN DEERE!
rosie
Ben Franklin VI
Have a large yard, Chemlawn measured it, quoted 200 about 10 years ago, now
about 300. No dandelions. No weeds. I think it is a bargain. 10% discount
for early sign up each year. This year they threw in a tree blight treatment
too. We will accept but certainly would NOT pay extra for this.
We plant new grass in a shaded area -- they don't help it much.
They all time are performing "good marketing" -- tree service, grub kill for
mole relief. We just say NO.
Ben
We enjoy great advantages from the inventions of others, we should be glad of
an opportunity to serve others by any invention of ours; and this we should do
freely and generously. BENJAMIN FRANKLIN, refusing Governor Thomas' offer of a
Stove Patent.
RamblinOn
Kenric wrote:
Depends what your time is worth. A lawn in good shape, as yours should
be if it was just resodded, doesn't take much in the way of chemicals to
maintain. It is lots cheaper than trying to get it back in good shape
after it's gone to hell. If it is in good shape, and landscaping is
fairly well done, it probably doesn't take more than two-three fertilizer
applications per year, maybe a pre-emergent weed killer each spring,
maybe a grub killer each spring, and spot treatment of problems.
Mulching non-grass areas, and hand pulling occasional weeds, goes a long
way toward keeping it in good shape. It depends on where you are and
local conditions. Your state/county extension service should have good
info on maintenance of your particular kind of lawn. I live in Florida,
so lawn care is vastly different than what folks do in cold climates.
Proper mowing has a great deal to do with how well the lawn does, and in
how fast it dries out. Takes a whole lot less watering when maintained
properly. Look up maintenance schedules for your type of lawn, price the
treatments and equipment cost if you do it yourself, and then decide.
Mulching our non-grass areas, and changing plants in problem areas, has
done a great deal to reduce the weeds (and weed treatment) as well as the
water needs. Real shady spots were covered with landscape cloth and
stone to get rid of mud splashing on building. A few shrubs and some
mulch in a dry, hot spot got rid of the weed problem there. We have
about an acre but we've brought our yard back from years of neglect and
now spend considerably less on maintaining it.
--
"Life can only be understood backwards, but it must be lived forwards."
Kierkegaard
SteveR
>If the goal is eradication of stray weeds, see the first suggestion. If a few
>broad leaf weeds get in a single squirt with roundup on a dry, still evening
>will do the trick.
You're gonna spray ROUNDUP on weeds in your lawn? Uh-huh.
SteveR
s.r.r.2 a.t w.i.n.s.o.c.k.e.t d.o.t c.o.m
SteveR
wrote:
>[Chemlawn, et.al.] Any thoughts?
If I had a grenade launcher, I'd take out every Chemlawn truck I could
find. (Note for the litigious and humor impaired: this is Hyperbole
and not to be taken literally.) Those bastards around here will spray
on days with 30MPH winds. I can't tell you how many times they've
damaged my trees, shrubs and ground cover when spraying my neighbor's
property (and they damage his ornamentals too). And you never catch
the rat-bastards in the act. You only see the damage a week or two
later. Man, I hate those people. They just don't give a shit.
Dan Hicks
>
> On Sat, 24 Feb 2001 04:15:32 GMT, JmG <jmg...@bestweb.net> wrote:
>
> >If the goal is eradication of stray weeds, see the first suggestion. If a few
> >broad leaf weeds get in a single squirt with roundup on a dry, still evening
> >will do the trick.
>
> You're gonna spray ROUNDUP on weeds in your lawn? Uh-huh.
Why not? I do it fairly often. The trick is to spray ONLY the weeds.
Andy Asberry
and a neighbor bought two equal size Red Oak trees from a local nursery. The
nursery planted both trees on the same day.
For the next 10 years, we used Chem-Lawn for the trees only (no lawn care). Our
tree now has about a 30 inch diameter truck; the neighbor's is about 10 inches.
Our tree, overall, is probably 7 or 8 times the size of theirs.
My point: whether you hire it done or do it yourself, proper nutrition and care
at the right time can make a HUGE difference in the growth and health of a
plant.
Andy - Prescription without diagnosis is malpractice. In medicine and
mechanics.
Dan Hicks
>
> I will relate our experience. Our subdivision was built in 1979. In 1980, we
> and a neighbor bought two equal size Red Oak trees from a local nursery. The
> nursery planted both trees on the same day.
>
> For the next 10 years, we used Chem-Lawn for the trees only (no lawn care). Our
> tree now has about a 30 inch diameter truck; the neighbor's is about 10 inches.
> Our tree, overall, is probably 7 or 8 times the size of theirs.
>
> My point: whether you hire it done or do it yourself, proper nutrition and care
> at the right time can make a HUGE difference in the growth and health of a
> plant.
We planted a Marshall's seedless ash in our backyard about 20 years
back, and our neighbor planted one the same year. Ours is three or four
times the diameter of his at the trunk. We never fertilized and rarely
watered the thing. Dumb luck in tree placement (the right soil and
moisture conditions) is probably the biggest determiner of tree success.
SteveR
>Why not? I do it fairly often. The trick is to spray ONLY the weeds.
I can think of two reasons right off the top of my head. 1) You
don't have to worry quite so much about what you hit with products
aimed at broadleaf weed control in turf. 2) Roundup is very
expensive compared to common these broadleaf-selective products.
Dan Hicks
>
> On Sat, 24 Feb 2001 18:57:10 GMT, Dan Hicks <danh...@ieee.org> wrote:
>
> >Why not? I do it fairly often. The trick is to spray ONLY the weeds.
>
> I can think of two reasons right off the top of my head. 1) You
> don't have to worry quite so much about what you hit with products
> aimed at broadleaf weed control in turf. 2) Roundup is very
> expensive compared to common these broadleaf-selective products.
If you have big weeds #1 isn't a problem, and as for #2 you use so
little that the price isn't a major factor.
RamblinOn
Andy Asberry wrote:
> I will relate our experience. Our subdivision was built in 1979. In 1980, we
> and a neighbor bought two equal size Red Oak trees from a local nursery. The
> nursery planted both trees on the same day.
>
> For the next 10 years, we used Chem-Lawn for the trees only (no lawn care). Our
> tree now has about a 30 inch diameter truck; the neighbor's is about 10 inches.
> Our tree, overall, is probably 7 or 8 times the size of theirs.
Are you raking 7-8 times more leaves than the neighbor? Trees generally don't need
fertilizing, I've read. As with lawns, at least Florida lawns, there is a low
maintenance and a high maintenance program. Can't see dumping on fertilizer just
to have the pleasure of mowing more often. There is a difference between
adequate and excess.
>
>
> My point: whether you hire it done or do it yourself, proper nutrition and care
> at the right time can make a HUGE difference in the growth and health of a
> plant.
>
> Andy - Prescription without diagnosis is malpractice. In medicine and
> mechanics.
--
Bob
front lawn on a one acre lot....
I am retired and honestly have the time to do this the 5-6 times a year
it is done by the lawn service...cost is really not that much of a factor
(about 350 a year if I
remember correctly) BUT I just hate doing it. Yada yada yada..
Is it worth it...NOT REALLY.... I can not water my lawn (too large and I
have a well
Actually my lawn is free of dandelions but in normal years (no draught
etc) the
grass next door or across the street is just as green..
Bob Griffiths
I am no yard fanatic....
micro*
kill bermuda.(I thought)
"Shut up and keep diggen"
Jerry
Kenric wrote in message <3a97060...@nntp.ix.netcom.com>...
Steve Fleckenstein
taxes are lower and my dogs don't have cancer from the crap sprayed on the
lawn
Mike Hartigan
> I will relate our experience. Our subdivision was built in 1979. In 1980, we
> and a neighbor bought two equal size Red Oak trees from a local nursery. The
> nursery planted both trees on the same day.
>
> For the next 10 years, we used Chem-Lawn for the trees only (no lawn care). Our
> tree now has about a 30 inch diameter truck; the neighbor's is about 10 inches.
> Our tree, overall, is probably 7 or 8 times the size of theirs.
>
> My point: whether you hire it done or do it yourself, proper nutrition and care
> at the right time can make a HUGE difference in the growth and health of a
> plant.
While a purist might argue that your neighbor's tree will provide wood
that is *far* superior (denser) to yours in 100 years or so, it's nice to
enjoy a big oak's beauty in *your* lifetime :-)
Bob
guy next door also. ( Without asking) Both lawns look like bomb targets,
with dead spots all over.
Bob
"SteveR" <ple...@see.sig> wrote in message
news:ahvf9toomdhranmgi...@4ax.com...
Brad
The chemlawns of the world have gone the route of most business's, hire a
kid a week to drive the truck. Thus, he has no training. Last 2 services I
tried, I went out and checked the yard after their "application". When they
used dry granules, you could easily see they missed huge sections of the
yard.
Do it yourself, you'll be happier.
Go here and readup on how to do it yourself.
http://www.scottslawn.com/homepage.cfm
Cost you about half as much as well.
"Mark Stiegel" <msti...@ix.netcom.com> wrote in message
news:9779dp$h2s$1...@slb0.atl.mindspring.net...
Dan Hicks
later with the RoundUp to spot spray the really tough weeds (especially
some of the prickly ones). I've never had problems with dead spots, and
our lawn looks as good as those on the street that use a lawn service.
bob
Kenric wrote:
Kenric,
I used Chem lawn for years and after having some disatisfaction with the
results I tried to get the Sales guy to stop by to take a look. After 2
calls and no show by the sales guy,
I dropped them. The guy next door to me is a landscapper and he
recommended that I use the Scotts 4 step program. I've been using it for
2 years now and my lawn has never looked better. USE A BROADCAST SPREADER
NOT A DROP SPREADER
and go by the settings they reccomend and you'll be happy as a pig in
shit.
Bob
Kenric
buy a spreader and read up about lawn care.
Kenric
Sylvia Steiger
$40. Makes fertilizing almost painless!
--
Sylvia Steiger RN BS
Remove "removethis" from address to reply
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/SylviaRN/quilting.htm
Cheyenne WY, zone 5a
Home of the Wyoming Wind Festival, January 1-December 31
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/SylviaRN/land.htm
Brad
said the drop spreader will do a more accurate job, and won't get the
product everywhere you don't want it.
"bob" <bn...@bellatlantic.net> wrote in message
news:3A9AFC17...@bellatlantic.net...
Brad
area got in trouble with the state attorney general for doing just what Tim
The Tool Man fears. Except in their case, they used plain water.
"Ken" <k...@cs.sunyit.edu> wrote in message
news:3A9BB2...@cs.sunyit.edu...
> It's all about prep work. You say you had the lawn re-sodded. Did the
> people who re-sodded do prep work or did they just put it down. A good
> lawn starts with good soil and a lot of prep work. Now if you have that
> and you let the clippings rot into the lawn you are on your way. Also
> feed lawn like once or twice a year for the first year or two and you
> have enought rain it should grow well.
>
> I wonder why did you need it re-sodded anyway?
>
> I always lived the Tim Allen line.
> Goes something like this.
>
> Some guy tell him you have a crab grass problem. Tim 'Herrrrrr'.
> He calls chem lawn and them come. He says afterwords I don't know what
> they are spraying. It could be ice tea for all I know!
JBSummer
they merged about 5 or 10 years ago SUCK. I still had weeds and dandelions.<<
Ditto. Find a good independent yard man and stick with him. They will usually
go the extra mile.
Leinie
"Brad" <m...@here.com> wrote in message
news:pRWm6.516$o97....@newsfeed.slurp.net...
> Why use the broadcast? Other than its quicker. Everything I've ever read
> said the drop spreader will do a more accurate job, and won't get the
> product everywhere you don't want it.
>
Every summer I see 4 or 5 lawns in the area where a drop spreader has been
used. You can tell by the spiral pattern in the lawn. I've seen the same one
3 years running!
If you are going to use a drop spreader, for God's sake set it at half the
recommended rate and go over it twice. Second time perpendicular to the
first.
Those spirals look so damn stupid !
bob
The 1st year I did it myself I used a drop......burnt the shit out of it at
ever turn around.
Needless to say it was a very frustrating summer for an anal guy like me.I
vowed never to do it again my self and called Chem Lawn back in for a couple
years. Then I had the problem with the sales rep.....thats when my next door
landscaper told me what and how to do it. Very happy since.....my lawns very
green in Nov / Dec
Bob
Lowered 1998 Metallic Red Extended Cab
New Pictures "by Chuck" at HTTP://www.intense99dak.com/bob.htm
Brad wrote:
--
Lowered 1998 Metallic Red Extended Cab
New Pictures "by Chuck" at HTTP://www.intense99dak.com/bob.htm
Dan Hicks
overlap more readily without creating hot or cold spots.
Kenric
The landscaper came in and regraded the whole lawn since it was
basically a bunch of mogles with sparse grass. So I'd say the soil
was turned and the sod was layed over it.
RamblinOn
Phisherman wrote:
> There are several advantages to the broadcast spreader (over the
> drop spreader). The broadcast spreader is much faster, covering a
> sweep of 6 or 8 feet in each pass. The broadcast spreader will not
> clog as readily since the opening is high above the moist grass.
> There is somewhat less control with the broadcast, but by slowing
> down the sweep is narrower. I got rid of my drop spreader in favor
> of a broadcast years ago. I don't use weedkillers in my
> broadcast spreader, so accuracy is not important.
Drop spreaders are more accurate, and great if you're trying to lose weight
in addition to caring for your lawn :o) As pointed out, if you use a weed
killer, you don't want to throw it into shrubs; some also say don't apply in
the drip line for trees. Another little tidbit, for those meticulous souls
who don't want rust spots on the sidewalk, fertilizers with iron will leave
rust spots on concrete if not swept up.
>
>
> On Tue, 27 Feb 2001 17:37:38 -0600, "Brad" <m...@here.com> wrote:
>
> >Why use the broadcast? Other than its quicker. Everything I've ever read
> >said the drop spreader will do a more accurate job, and won't get the
> >product everywhere you don't want it.
--
Earle Edomm
I had really poor luck with Chemlawn and another big name outfit. I use a
company that sort of does the same type service but is much smaller. They
treat eight times a year and take care of fertilizer, pre-emergents, weeds,
spot treatments, pesticide for the lawn, shrubs and trees. If I see a weed
or I don't think something is right they come back at no extra charge. I
like it.
Earle
Mike Hartigan <mi...@hartigan.dot.com> wrote in message
news:1EE18D47BC201FD0.3938C1DC...@lp.airnews.net...
Brad
keep an eye out for it.
"Leinie" <JHA...@mn.rr.com> wrote in message
news:0VZm6.20569$_d5.1...@typhoon.mn.mediaone.net...
Brian
to buy a good name brand spreader! The calibration settings on the spreader
are not logical, they are dictated by the manufacturer. So, if you are going
to use Scott's Turfbuilder, buy a Scott's spreader. Then when you buy
fertilizers the recommended settings will be on the bag for you. Just set
the spreader at the recommended rate it will be fairly close to correct and
you will not burn your lawn. Personally I prefer my drop spreader over my
broadcast spreader it wastes a lot less fertilizer. Scott's has made their
new drop spreaders very easy to use. I have been using the Scott's program
with fantastic results!
"Dan Hicks" <danh...@ieee.org> wrote in message
news:3A9C810D...@ieee.org...
Brian
also take the time to line-up with my last wheel mark.
"Brad" <m...@here.com> wrote in message
news:kXfn6.70$9g1....@newsfeed.slurp.net...
Dan Hicks
hill where you have to walk sideways because of a retaining wall.
TDuffy1770
IMHO no, they are not worth it. Their cost can be 2 to 3 times the cost of a
good store brand granulated fertilizer and again IMHO definately not worth the
cost. Even name brands are much less than the service cost.
My experience has been their coming at an inopportune time like when sprinkling
or mowing. The main reason I don't feel they are worth it is that their
service, as a whole, has not produced the excellent results you would expect
from the cost. I guess I'm cost oriented.
And a broadcast spreader does as good a job if you follow the same procedure
and spread 1/2 one way and then 1/2 perpendicular to the first direction. I
always have the greenest, lushest lawn in the 'hood.
Duff
30 years in the IBEW
Cook17748
if you prepay for a year's worth of service. I personally would not use
Chemlawn because they call our home frequently and begin their conversation
like we are already a customer of theirs. The service we currently have offers
a free application of lawn pest insecticide. It's convenient, they leave a
notice as to when they serviced your lawn and any instructions/suggestions.
henry bassman
received was from Chemlawn so that is who I use.
I find that even though the services are more expensive than doing it
myself, they are more dependable than am I. For example, if you miss
the right couple of weeks you will be too late to apply crabgrass
pre-emergent or if you miss the correct week or so in August your lawn
gets chewed up by cinch bugs or grubs or whatever! Plus, I just don't
want to be bothered running to the store, applying the stuff and perhaps
breathing in all those insecticides. So I let Chemlawn do the dirty
work. I figure it is worth the extra $50-$75 per season over doing it
myself.
Henry
beachquack
neighbors have chem. lawn do their yards. They aren't very happy with the fact
that my lawn always seem to be greener than theirs.
I must admit that last year I did burn out parts of the lawn. I forgot (or
was just lazy) to turn off the drop spreader while I made the end turns. I was
putting on the broadleaf weed killer but at double strength it killed the grass
also. Then about two months later the grass was back and really really green.
I have a small lawn with gardens everywhere so I can't really use the rotary
spreader unless i want to kill my flowers( with the broad leaf killer) or stop my
seeds from starting (crab grass inhibitor). If your going to use a drop spreader
you want to do it on a day that you can see where you've been.( a little dew on
the grown works great). If you don't have to worry about the flowers the rotary
sprayer is the way to go.
It only cost me about $50 a year for the fertilizer to cover 12,000 feet.
That's a lot cheaper that the lawn service. Think I'll use the other $250 for
something else (like some more plants for the yard)
Joseph Meehan
have used them have suffered poor lawn care.
I would also suggest you should dump what you are using. Those
combination products almost always mean you are using one or the other
product at the wrong time. Seldom should you be using fertilizer and a
chemical control at the same time. Also Scotts products, while ok
quality are far too expensive for what they are. Buy your products for
the content not the name on the package and save $$$.
--
Dia 's Muire duit
Joe M
Bob
weed killer in a hand spray bottle. Spray just the weeds one every month or
two. Then you can use the broadcast spreader for the fertilizer. The result
will be significantly less use of dangerous chemicals. Fertilising my 15,000
sq ft lot takes less than 1/2 hour with a broadcast spreader, including
cleanup.
Bob
"beachquack" <vaq...@bellatlantic.net> wrote in message
news:3AAD9AEC...@bellatlantic.net...
Linoski
need to tread as lightly as possible. Covering every square foot of yard
with fertilizer, herbicide, and insecticide is foolhardy. The active
chemicals in herbicides and fertilizers are extremely toxic substances.
So, beachquack, you are a step ahead of your neighbors by retaining control
over what is spread on your yard (except for the overspray and drift from
your neighbors). For that initial dose in spring, wait until there is
definite signs of growth. Too early an application can be wasted in rain
runoff. NEVER use more than recommended. Apply herbicide only where
needed. Be extra judicious with insecticide.
AL
"Bob" <bobn...@seattleoffice.com> wrote in message
news:q1sr6.564114$U46.16...@news1.sttls1.wa.home.com...
Oz
looks beautiful. We have many different varieties of grasses and well as,
I guess most would call them weeds, (except dandilions I do hate them). But
when they are established they produce beautiful flowers and such. All I do
is mow it. While it does not look like a chemical lawn, ( the whole yard
one species of grass), I love it. Plus it has zero impact on the
enviornment. Since I have a well 150ft under my grass, I don't want to
worry about chemical leaching into the ground water. I guess beauty is in
the eye of the beholder.
Oz
"beachquack" <vaq...@bellatlantic.net> wrote in message
news:3AAD9AEC...@bellatlantic.net...
JAC
$50. That comes out to about a buck per thousand square feet per treatment. I own a
commercial lawn care company and buy material by the ton, and can only buy some of
the cheap straight fertilizers at that cost. In fact, I have the Scotts flyer on my
desk right now, and the prices are $47.99 for a 4 step program for a 5000 square foot
lawn. You don't state your location, but I cannot believe that you get that material
that cheap.
You also stated that you put their "weed killer" on at double strength and burned the
lawn. The label on a pesticide container is the law. As licensed commercial
applicators, we are not permitted to deiavate from that label at all. To top it off,
there are products that we can only use on commercial properties, not residential,
and there are products that we can only use on golf turf as well.
The pesticide label is the most expensive document in the world. It costs chemical
companies millions of dollars to test and compile that label. They have tested those
products every way that you can imagine. The "more is better" mentality does not
apply.
garden-quacken
The weed killer was put on double strength were I turned around and
" I forgot (or
was just lazy) to turn off the drop spreader while I made the end
turns".
I didn't put double strength on the whole lawn.
First of all that would burned out the entire lawn and be a waste a lot
of money. Why would anyone put the double strength on, on purpose. I just
had and old spreader that was very difficult to turn on and off. Plus it
was so old the holes in it probably weren't the right size anymore. That
why I bout a new one and haven't had any problems since.
garden-quacken
and my checkbook doesn't balance.
mike wrote:
> "JAC" <not.av...@here.com> wrote in message
> news:3AAF75F7...@here.com...
> > Beachquack- You say that you can treat your 12M lawn 4 times per year for
> a total of
> > $50.
>
> > beachquack wrote:
> >
> > > It only cost me about $50 a year for the fertilizer to cover 12,000
> feet.
> > > That's a lot cheaper that the lawn service. Think I'll use the other
> $250 for
> > > something else (like some more plants for the yard)
>
> hm... at costco the 12000 sq ft bag runs about $16. the math is close, but
> not quite.
beachquack
different price so you can just multiply $16 by four
I think I pay around $10 for one of the bags( winterizer I think.) You have to
try some trig to figure out what the price of the other two bags were.
I didn't dig out my checkbook and figure out the exact amount I paid but it
was in the 50-60 dollar range for the four bags of fertilizer. Most of which I
picked up at Sam's club or BJ club. The pre emergent was the most expensive one
of the four. Even if it was over $60 (which it wasn't) its still much cheaper
than the services that come in (which was the original question just in case you
forgot) and except for the one incident of burning my grass, I have been very
happy with the results.
This year I paid $32 for a bag of Scott's with "Halt" in it that will cover
15000 sqft. I have also seen Scott's fertilizer with a different crabgrass
inhibitor that is much cheaper. Hope the "halt" was worth it. I'll let you know
next fall.
Guess I'm going to have to hire a proof reader the make sure I can document
every word (and number) I type!
mike wrote:
> "JAC" <not.av...@here.com> wrote in message
> news:3AAF75F7...@here.com...
> > Beachquack- You say that you can treat your 12M lawn 4 times per year for
> a total of
> > $50.
>
> > beachquack wrote:
> >
> > > It only cost me about $50 a year for the fertilizer to cover 12,000
> feet.
> > > That's a lot cheaper that the lawn service. Think I'll use the other
> $250 for
> > > something else (like some more plants for the yard)
>
Robert Barile
telemarketing and for that reason, I won't use them. They called 4
times one night and I finally picked up the phone and told them I
wanted to be off their list. The claim they took me off their list
but they continue to call. Caller id sure comes in handy.
Usaman
entire telemarketing programs was developed by me. As far as the numerous
calls, they are aggresive because the competition is aggressive.
Concerning the production end...It comes down to who is doing your property
and how well trained and conscientious they are. Not all the workers have
been certified but work under anothers state certification if they take and
pass the company's internal testing.....lets's face it...recruiting is
always an issue and this format provides for quicker field time. I have
just become aware of a new policy ( grapevine stuff, havent seen the actual
papers) that many offices are bringing in migrant workers on visa's and only
need to pay the prevailing local minimum wage.....that's profit for ya!
Hello Miguel! ...shame on them!
It has been my experience that TruGreen/Chemlawn however was ( during my
time there) maintaining the most stringent risk/safety policies which
generally exceeded local, state and federal guidelines. In comparison to
other shops I have personally witnessed, they were definitely the Mr. Clean
of all outfits.
Most customers expectations are ridiculously high in the performance arena
but you need to keep in mind about what youre starting with.....just because
you have them servicing your property doesnt mean that the cute fairy will
swoosh and poof your lawn into a trophy winner overnight, let alone a couple
of seasons......You want a great lawn?????
Top dress it with good potting soil twice a year...aerated and seed each
fall and dont forget the lime/gypsum (whatever your area calls for) and get
it ferted......If you dont water regulary with a GOOD SOAKING, generally an
inch/week...hang it up youre throwing your money away, nothing will work...
that the key, plain and simple...a little bit of fert and you can forget the
insecticies, fungicides and what-have you most of the time..
As far as seed goes.....stay as far away as possible from all the junk at
all those stores that everyone has access to...buy your seed (certified
only) from a reputable supply house that moves a lot of product.
And the secret phrase of the day?????....If your call the corporate office
to complain....they'll give you anything you want!!!!!
Every local mgr is afraid of that nasty-gram or that personal call from the
heavens above! Youd be amazed with what they settle out for.....
keitha...@gmail.com
> Hello,
>
> I just got a call from Chem-Lawn offering to take care of my grass
> (not mowing) for the summer. Their application included some type of
> crab-grass treatment, pre-treatment, fertilizer, etc..
>
> They are charging about $40 per application which occurs every 6-7
> weeks.
>
> They say they guarantee a fuller, green, weed-free grass.
>
> I just had my lawn re-sodded last fall, so I am actually entertaining
> this.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Kenric
I am extremely happy with the service, I have their app in my phone and it tells me where the truck is and gives me a 24 hr notice before a treatment.
My yard was a disaster, mostly weeds and lots of bare spots, now its green and weed free, the bare spots are filling in, I now have the best yard on the block and didn't lift a finger. Im very happy with it, its a lot cheaper than putting in a new lawn.
Keith in South Carolina
Colonel Edmund J. Burke
I think we could all use more chemicals in our lives.
Don't you two sweethearts?
LOL
Clare Snyder
wrote:
lawn the lawn has died.
Frank
that there was some sort of biting insect in the lawn. They told him
that it was his responsibility as they were only responsible for the
lawn's health.
gregz
Greg
Mark Lloyd
[snip]
> Every year I have relied on a paid service to weed and fertilize my
> lawn the lawn has died.
one of the worse looking ones.
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us/
"The Bible and the Church have been the greatest stumbling blocks in the
way of women's emancipation." -- Elizabeth Cady Stanton
Clare Snyder
wrote:
worst it's been in 36 years.
Morph
> I am extremely happy with the service, I have their app in my phone and it tells me where the truck is and gives me a 24 hr notice before a treatment.
gfre...@aol.com
wrote:
>On 04/10/2018 11:05 AM, keitha...@gmail.com wrote:
>> I am extremely happy with the service, I have their app in my phone and it tells me where the truck is and gives me a 24 hr notice before a treatment.
>
>Does the app tell you how toxic that shit is and how long it takes to work its way down into the drinking water table?
damaging crop grown in the US, using more water and chemicals than any
other thing we grow ... for absolutely zero tangible benefit.
Clare Snyder
iron compound for weeds that seems to make them grow faster - and they
use straight nitrogen fertilizer - leaving the lawn deficient in
phosphates and potassium.
I used to use triple 7 fertilizer - hard to get now - will use slow
release triple 17 this year and see if I can get ahead of the weeds by
pulling and cutting at 3 inches instead of 2 1/4. Will likely spot
treat the stubborn stuff with something illigal and effective.
Mark Lloyd
the green grass that hasn't been killed with toxic chemicals.
Tekkie®
I had a boss tell me once to cut it high and it will choke the weeds off
eventually. It works!
--
Tekkie
Colonel Edmund J. Burke
About six inches, I reckon.
LOL
gfre...@aol.com
other two. It is one of the tests I run every month.
Edward McBride
micky
McBride <alexx...@gmail.com> wrote:
>I have long wondered what type of turf is best and a friend of mine gave me some advice. He advised me to contact GrassCrap, they supply high quality turf in convenient lawn rolls which means it arrives at my address in perfect condition,
Sometimes.
> ready to be rolled out and laid where I want to see lush green grass. It's very convenient and not as expensive as other companies.
Where was the previous post?
There is no Homemoaners sig. It was sent here.
And the text does not really go with the subject line.
I think it's an obnoxious, sneaky effort to post advertising on a ng
where advertising is not allowed. So I'm not dealing with any company
mentioned in this post, now or in the future.
Jim Joyce
>In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 27 Sep 2023 06:16:57 -0700 (PDT), Edward
>McBride <alexx...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>I have long wondered what type of turf is best and a friend of mine gave me some advice. He advised me to contact GrassCrap, they supply high quality turf in convenient lawn rolls which means it arrives at my address in perfect condition,
>
>Sometimes.
>
>> ready to be rolled out and laid where I want to see lush green grass. It's very convenient and not as expensive as other companies.
>
>How does a post like this, to only one ng, arrive with the prefix Re:?
>Where was the previous post?
which itself was a reply to multiple previous posts in that thread. Why someone
resurrected it now is a good question.
NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2018 16:51:08 -0500
From: gfre...@aol.com
Newsgroups: alt.home.repair
Subject: Re: Are lawn services like Chemlawn worth it?
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2018 17:50:45 -0400
Message-ID: <q3lvcdtt9bqvub4op...@4ax.com>
References: <3a97060...@nntp.ix.netcom.com>
<7cb1e8fa-5fa2-44ac...@googlegroups.com>
<YxpzC.941$vY2...@fx05.iad> <j0bscdl1lfsagn4um...@4ax.com>
<mcpscdtt5fhpl3931...@4ax.com>
Bob F
server does not have it.
Cindy Hamilton
got to be kidding. Who's going to enforce it?
--
Cindy Hamilton
micky
>On Wed, 27 Sep 2023 14:15:44 -0400, micky <NONONO...@fmguy.com> wrote:
>
>>In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 27 Sep 2023 06:16:57 -0700 (PDT), Edward
>>McBride <alexx...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>>I have long wondered what type of turf is best and a friend of mine gave me some advice. He advised me to contact GrassCrap, they supply high quality turf in convenient lawn rolls which means it arrives at my address in perfect condition,
>>
>>Sometimes.
>>
>>> ready to be rolled out and laid where I want to see lush green grass. It's very convenient and not as expensive as other companies.
>>
>>How does a post like this, to only one ng, arrive with the prefix Re:?
>>Where was the previous post?
>
>It's supposedly a reply to a post from Fretwell in this newsgroup from 2018,
>which itself was a reply to multiple previous posts in that thread. Why someone
>resurrected it now is a good question.
worked back. I wonder if I could have have done that. Yes, clicking on
the In Reply To value brought me to Fretwell's post, and not only that
in Agent 4, it's now displaying right about the OP's post (although not
the people who Fretwll was replying to). Amazing. )
Cindy wrote:
>Advertising is not allowed here? In the alt.* hierarchy? You've
>got to be kidding. Who's going to enforce it?
micky
>In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 27 Sep 2023 13:33:57 -0500, Jim Joyce
><no...@none.invalid> wrote:
>
>>On Wed, 27 Sep 2023 14:15:44 -0400, micky <NONONO...@fmguy.com> wrote:
>>
>>>In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 27 Sep 2023 06:16:57 -0700 (PDT), Edward
>>>McBride <alexx...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>>I have long wondered what type of turf is best and a friend of mine gave me some advice. He advised me to contact GrassCrap, they supply high quality turf in convenient lawn rolls which means it arrives at my address in perfect condition,
>>>
>>>Sometimes.
>>>
>>>> ready to be rolled out and laid where I want to see lush green grass. It's very convenient and not as expensive as other companies.
>>>
>>>How does a post like this, to only one ng, arrive with the prefix Re:?
>>>Where was the previous post?
>>
>>It's supposedly a reply to a post from Fretwell in this newsgroup from 2018,
>>which itself was a reply to multiple previous posts in that thread. Why someone
>>resurrected it now is a good question.
>
>My apologies to the poster. (I guess you looked at the headers and
>worked back. I wonder if I could have have done that. Yes, clicking on
>the In Reply To value brought me to Fretwell's post, and not only that
>in Agent 4, it's now displaying right about the OP's post (although not
>the people who Fretwll was replying to). Amazing. )
following Fretwell's from 2019. I wonder why I saw Edward's post in
the first place, why it wasn't hidden with the other posts from 2019. It
must be an improvement in v4 of Agent over version 1.9, that they show
new posts in old threads.
Dean Hoffman
"Mark Stiegel's profile photo
Mark Stiegel
Feb 23, 2001, 9:16:51 PM
to
I've had 4 different lawn services. Chem-lawn and the company with whom
they merged about 5 or 10 years ago SUCK. I still had weeds and dandelions.
When I use a local lawn service, the results were great. Personally, I
think the Chem-lawns don't put down as much or as good stuff as the
independents.
Hint: Drive around and look at yards....when you see one that you like,
find out who does their lawn.
Good luck.
--
Mark
Kenric <biop...@ix.netcom.com> wrote in message
news:3a97060...@nntp.ix.netcom.com...
trader_4
how much of anything they actually put down. They could charge you for 200 lbs
of lime and only put down half that. When I was president of a condo association,
we had 40 acres. The contract with the landscape service just had general BS in
it, like applying fertilizer. But not a word about NPK or how much. It was obvious
they were not doing much in the way of fertilizer, but with our budget it was good
enough, so I wasn't going to upset the apple cart. Even if they said they would
apply X pounds per acre, unless someone was there to weigh what they came with
there would be no way to know.
The advantage to a good service is they know how to identify weeds, pests, disease,
etc and they see what's a problem in the area. So they can have the mix loaded for
what should work. On the other hand, I see lots of services running around here in
March applying pre-emergent crabgrass control. That's way early and I would suspect
it's not going to still be effective enough when it gets warm. But when you have 100
places to do, I guess you have to start early.