Deadening stainless steel sink noise.
Jack
except it is loud and "tinny" when you drop stuff in it. I am
thinking of pulling it out, and painting the entire underside with that
thick.. black coating that is available for coating the back of pickup
trucks. It is thick, and I think it would help deaden the sound.
It is also made to stick to the truck in all weather conditions, so I
imagine it will stick to the sink even though expansion and
contraction/hot cold.
The coated side will be inside the cabinet, and never seen, so how it
looks is not an issue. Because of sink placement, other traditional
insulation is not really an option, so I need something that you
"paint" on, and sticks to the metal.
I considered auto undercoating, but think this stuff goes on just as
thick or thicker, and is made to be exposed so I think it would leave a
better finish, even though it is unseen.
Any thoughts? Anything better out there that I should consider?.
JoeSpareBedroom
news:1167768074....@k21g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Automotive undercoating often remains sticky forever. You'll love that when
you need to get under the sink and fix a leak.
What about that foam you spray into crevices around doors, to keep cold air
out? I wonder if you could spray that on, and use a paint mixing stick to
spread it into a layer of appropriate thickness.
aspasia
>I just got a nice big stainless steel sink for our kitchen. I love it,
>except it is loud and "tinny" when you drop stuff in it.
This is a straight question: Why do you have to drop stuff in the
sink? IOW, why not just set stuff gently in the sink?
[...]
Joe
Go to your box store, lumber yard or other source and buy a quart of
old fashioned Blackjack roof coating. It goes on as thick as you want,
and dries to touch overnight and finally days, weeks later is pretty
solid. It isn't exotic, not very pretty, but it works and it's cheap.
If you want to experiment, use it as an adhesive for some sort of fiber
or foam for more sound deadening. YMMV
Joe
Joseph Meehan
The spray should help, either the car undercoating or the truck bead
stuff. I would try some on something else first to make sure there are no
unknown down sides like bad smell etc..
--
Joseph Meehan
Dia 's Muire duit
Charles Schuler
> except it is loud and "tinny" when you drop stuff in it. I am
> thinking of pulling it out, and painting the entire underside with that
> thick.. black coating that is available for coating the back of pickup
> trucks. It is thick, and I think it would help deaden the sound.
> It is also made to stick to the truck in all weather conditions, so I
> imagine it will stick to the sink even though expansion and
> contraction/hot cold.
>
> The coated side will be inside the cabinet, and never seen, so how it
> looks is not an issue. Because of sink placement, other traditional
> insulation is not really an option, so I need something that you
> "paint" on, and sticks to the metal.
Spray foam insulation is worth a try.
Heathcliff
Might work. One concern: odor. How does this stuff smell, and for how
long? You will not be popular if you make the kitchen smell like tar
for more than a day or two.
How long has it been? You might find that you get used to the sound
(like, don't notice it) after a month or so.
If you do it, let us know how it works. -- H
N8N
check your local car stereo place, there are both brush on chemicals
and stick on mats that are designed to dampen resonance in car bodies
and would likely do the best job of all with your sink.
good luck,
nate
Todd H.
Being a former car audio enthusiast, I'd probably give dynamat a try
in this application:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-xlrfABC5aVh/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=181250&I=15410125&search=dynamat
I bet it would work rather nicely.
Best Regards,
--
Todd H.
http://www.toddh.net/
jmagerl
they have this black sheet thing stuck to the bottom (if it were roofing,
I'd call it ice and water shield). The only reason I could think of why its
there was for sound deadening. I've seen the same stuff on dishwashers. Your
sink doesn't have this? What would happen if you got some "bituene" (I
think thats the generic name for Ice and water shield) and put it all over
the sides and bottom? Otherwise, I was thinking Auto undercoating too.
Foundation water proofing?
"Jack" <jackjo...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1167768074....@k21g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Berkshire Bill
"JoeSpareBedroom" <dishbo...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:HVymh.35$TE...@news02.roc.ny...
Dura-Line and others might work. As you said, you would have to remove the
sink. Probably best to mask the rim and flange areas so you can re-install
the faucet and sink baskets to a untreated surface. Let us know.
Bill
George E. Cawthon
in the sink.
For more constructive comments, I suggest that you
not use auto undercoat since it is primarily tar.
A better option is rubber, check around for
rubber coatings that you can brush on. Another
option is to use the stuff that they use for
coating pickup beds. You don't need perfect
coverage, just enough that breaks up the large
surfaces that amplify sounds.
George E. Cawthon
has any lung problems. It will continue to emit
fumes for a long time.
Bob M.
> except it is loud and "tinny" when you drop stuff in it. I am
That's not the only reason you'd want it but I doubt any coating would be
real effective against sound. The other reason there should be some kind of
spray-on lining is to prevent condensation on the bottom of the sink.
Ask around at non-big-box home improvement places, places that sell
counters, kitchen remodelers, etc.
Eigenvector
"Bob M." <n...@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:HtGdnQdu15K2gwbY...@bresnan.com...
on in a thin layer. I would think twice about doing it if you care at all
about the underside finish, but it'll certainly deaden the sound.
Might require some artistic talent too - otherwise you might have a real
mess under there!
Jeff
than taking out the sink. See this web site: http://www.b-quiet.com/
"Jack" <jackjo...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1167768074....@k21g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
jo...@phred.org
jackjo...@gmail.com says...
> I considered auto undercoating, but think this stuff goes on just as
> thick or thicker, and is made to be exposed so I think it would leave a
> better finish, even though it is unseen.
You can get adhesive sheets of sound deadening material, used inside car
door skins and the like. Much quicker, easier, and cleaner than any
spray-on solutions.
--
jo...@phred.org is Joshua Putnam
<http://www.phred.org/~josh/>
Braze your own bicycle frames. See
<http://www.phred.org/~josh/build/build.html>
ng_reader
Please post back with your results.
Some sinks, but not all - as in your case - come with that coating already
applied.
But, more importantly, how well did your solution work?
Helpful
excellent low cost remedy after much searching. GT MAT Sound Control @
gtsoundcontrol.com. $13-$16 depending on thickness, enough for double bowl
sink and free shipping. This is a strong adhesive sound dampening material
for automotive applications. Top rated reviews by users. Better than
adhesive material used by sink MFG's. Hope this info. is useful.
--
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Nate Nagel
similar to what is used by sink mfgrs... Dynamat, Lizard Skin, whatever
is available locally for you will work. Even plain old spray
undercoating applied to the underside of the sink will work although it
is messy and smelly until it sets up.
Along the same lines using some cheap (lowest R-value, so it's thinner
and not compressed as much when shoved under the counter) fiberglass
insulation to wrap the tub of a dishwasher does wonders to control
sound. Did that for a friend of mine when he installed a used
dishwasher, it acts like an expensive "super quiet" dishwasher but only
added $13 (plus a little bit of foil duct tape that I used) to the cost
of the installation.
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
DerbyDad03
sure it *acts* like one.
There's more to a high quality dishwasher than just additional insulation.
Robert Macy
dissimilar materials. Therefore for best sound 'stopping' consider
alternating layers of material, rather than relying on one, single
THICK layer of something.
Likewhat ??
stainless steel sink - contact cemented lead foil - rigid fibre glass
epoxy layer - adhering lead foil, etc ...or
ss sink - rubbery layer - lead foil? rigid layer? - rubbery layer and
so on.
Anyway, you get the idea is that each layer reflects back a percentage
of sound, after a few layers, not much gets transferred, almost all
the sound energy gets lost in the dampening material, in the rubber or
lead foil.
denni...@gmail.com
Oren
>You just replied to someone who was stupid enough to reply to a SIX YEAR OLD post.
Nate Nagel
Unlike the last one though it's got three spray arms and the heating
element gets blazin' hot so self dry, sani-cycle etc. work great. It
actually works pretty well.
If I were to find any fault with it it would be that the tub isn't
perfectly square so you can see the lip around the edge "bulging" and
also the racks aren't made of stainless so when the coating peels
they'll rust. Other than that it's pretty acceptable.
DRiff
>
> I was trying to accomplish same thing with new SS sink. Came across an
> excellent low cost remedy after much searching. GT MAT Sound Control @
> gtsoundcontrol.com. $13-$16 depending on thickness, enough for double bowl
sink
> and free shipping. This is a strong adhesive sound dampening material for
> automotive applications. Top rated reviews by users. Better than adhesive
> material used by sink MFG's. Hope this info. is useful.
looking for.
--
N8N
> I just got a nice big stainless steel sink for our kitchen. I love it,
> except it is loud and "tinny" when you drop stuff in it. I am
> thinking of pulling it out, and painting the entire underside with that
> thick.. black coating that is available for coating the back of pickup
> trucks. It is thick, and I think it would help deaden the sound.
> It is also made to stick to the truck in all weather conditions, so I
> imagine it will stick to the sink even though expansion and
> contraction/hot cold.
>
> The coated side will be inside the cabinet, and never seen, so how it
> looks is not an issue. Because of sink placement, other traditional
> insulation is not really an option, so I need something that you
> "paint" on, and sticks to the metal.
>
> I considered auto undercoating, but think this stuff goes on just as
> thick or thicker, and is made to be exposed so I think it would leave a
> better finish, even though it is unseen.
>
> Any thoughts? Anything better out there that I should consider?.
nate
Stormin Mormon
tinny sink.
-
.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
Stormin Mormon
> Tonight, I'm going to nail my ninety five thesis to the door of
> the church in town. I don't want the noise to give me away.
> I considered auto undercoating, but think this stuff goes on just as
> thick or thicker, and is made to be exposed so I think it would leave a
> better finish, even though it is unseen.
>
> Any thoughts? Anything better out there that I should consider?.
>
I think you should coat the door in auto body under
coating before nailing up your thesis.
Stormin Mormon
> I just got a nice big stainless steel sink for our kitchen. I love it,
> except it is loud and "tinny" when you drop stuff in it. I am
> thinking of pulling it out, and painting the entire underside with that
> thick.. black coating that is available for coating the back of pickup
> trucks. It is thick, and I think it would help deaden the sound.
> It is also made to stick to the truck in all weather conditions, so I
> imagine it will stick to the sink even though expansion and
> contraction/hot cold.
>>
>
rounds of yo ho ho.
The Viking Drummers can practice on the sink before
chanting stroke, ho.
--
micky
<caedfaa9ed1216d60e...@example.com> wrote:
>replying to Helpful, DRiff wrote:
>> Helpful wrote:
>>
>> I was trying to accomplish same thing with new SS sink. Came across an
>> impsoundproduct.com. $213-$216 depending on thickness, enough for double bowl
>> and free shipping. This is a strong adhesive sound dampening material for
>> automotive applications. Top rated reviews by users. Better than adhesive
>> material used by sink MFG's. Hope this info. is useful.
>
>
>looking for.
It looks to me like this guy spammed us 7 years ago and now he needs
business so he's spamming us again.
For practically nothing, one could 5-minute epoxy a 1x2 from one half
the sink to the other. That will suppress 90% of the noise. A sink
has no engine that runs all the time like a car, nor does it have to
keep all of its noise in, or out.
Gill
I used Flex Seal white spray on. I taped off the underside of the edge (where
the clips fit in and you'll later use a putty or silicone seal when you mount
it to your cabinet top, and around the drainage holes). I then sprayed 3 coats
- letting it dry 24 hours between each coat. I did this a few weeks before I
needed to install the sink in order for the seal to cure all the way through.
Worked great.
--
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