Chain Saw Chain - Number of Teeth?

[DerbyDad03]

I went to the Borg to get a new chain for my 16" chain saw.

The generic brand they sell had 4 - 5 different 16" chains with the
number of teeth ranging from something like 56 to 60.

Each version showed the same list of manufacturers (Echo, Homelite,
Stihl, etc) but each version had a different list of model numbers
under each manufacturer's name.

For example, only the 56 tooth model had my chain saw's model number
on the package but all versions had my brand listed.

So what would happen if I put, let's say, a 60 tooth chain that
matches my brand of chain saw but not my model?

In other words, what's the difference between two 16" chain saws for
the same brand of saw, one that uses a 57 tooth chain and one that
uses a 58 (or 59 or 60) tooth chain?

[Harry K]

The length of the bar assuming you are talking about the same gauge
and pitch chain. The size of chain your saw uses, including the
number of drivers, should be stamped right on the bar near the saw
end.

chain is measured by number of drivers, not the number of teeth.

Chain, other than packages you find int the borgs, does not care about
brand namee, only guage, pitch, length. A bar that takes .325 pitch,
058 gauge, 62 dl will fit any brand of saw that useses that size
chain.

Harry K

[DerbyDad03]

You are correct, sir. My mistake.

Closer inspection of the package does indeed say 56 drivers, not 56
teeth.

So is the different number of drivers on the different 16" chains
based on the gear that drives the chain? In other words, why does a
16" chain for one Stihl model have 56 drivers, another 16" chain for a
different Stihl model have 57 drivers, etc?

[Steve Barker]

it's all about the length, and that is dictated by the bar. There are
different bars that are all considered 16".


--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

[Stormin Mormon]

If it's the same design of chain, and tooth spacing. Just means that you
have to adjust the bar in or out a bit more.

For example, the 3/8 chain that my old Homelite, I could use 59 or 60 links,
with no worries at all. I think my blue one took 59, the orange saw took 60.
No big deal.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"DerbyDad03" <teama...@eznet.net> wrote in message
news:852e54c3-acef-4dc0...@q11g2000vbu.googlegroups.com...

[Jon Danniken]

DerbyDad03 wrote:
> I went to the Borg to get a new chain for my 16" chain saw.

Is there not a saw shop in your town? Those guys make a living dealing with
saws, and making up a chain loop puts the food on their family's table.

As an added bonus, they are usually a lot cheaper than the big box store,
and they will sell you the right file you need to resharpen your chain, too.
If you are nice, and they are not too busy, they will be happy to show you
how to do this.

So do yourself and your local community a favor and spend your money with a
local business; you'll get better service and save yourself some money.

Jon

[gregz]

A professional grade chain will have twice as many teeth. A little safer
with less teeth, for amateurs.

Greg

[tange...@toyotamail.com]

On Sat, 17 Mar 2012 19:54:22 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

>So is the different number of drivers on the different 16" chains
>based on the gear that drives the chain? In other words, why does a
>16" chain for one Stihl model have 56 drivers, another 16" chain for a
>different Stihl model have 57 drivers, etc?

The drivers affect the match to the gear. Same as if you were matching
teeth on two gears. If one gear has 10 teeth per inch, the other one
needs the same or they wont mesh. The amount of teeth dont matter, it's
the drivers must match the gear or it wont work. Then the bar needs the
proper thickness of the drivers to fit correctly in the groove.

Look up the make and model of your saw on the web. Find a downloadable
manual, it will tell you what to buy, or give you a phone number to
call. The packages on those generic chains are mostly worthless.

[DerbyDad03]

On Mar 17, 11:53 pm, "Jon Danniken"

I agree with the theory behind your post, but timing is everything.

I've got to get some stuff cut today (Sunday) and no saw shops were
open at 8:30 on Saturday night.

Besides, the $15.97 I spent on the chain (which I am going to ruin
today) isn't something I think a saw shop will beat price wise. I'm
sure I'd get a better quality chain, but I doubt it'll be under $16.

The job at hand is to cut a couple of small stumps (<10") down to
ground level or below. I know that the chain is going to be in the
dirt (I did one yesterday) so I don't mind ruining a $16 chain. Once
this job is complete and I have more time, I'll stop by a saw shop and
do the right thing.

[Jon Danniken]

DerbyDad03 wrote:
>
> I agree with the theory behind your post, but timing is everything.
>
> I've got to get some stuff cut today (Sunday) and no saw shops were
> open at 8:30 on Saturday night.
>
> Besides, the $15.97 I spent on the chain (which I am going to ruin
> today) isn't something I think a saw shop will beat price wise. I'm
> sure I'd get a better quality chain, but I doubt it'll be under $16.
>
> The job at hand is to cut a couple of small stumps (<10") down to
> ground level or below. I know that the chain is going to be in the
> dirt (I did one yesterday) so I don't mind ruining a $16 chain. Once
> this job is complete and I have more time, I'll stop by a saw shop and
> do the right thing.

Alright then, I'm going to let you off with a warning this time, but next
time I see you around these parts I'm going to at least want to see some
round files on your pocket.

Jon

[Harry K]

On Mar 17, 10:23 pm, tangeri...@toyotamail.com wrote:
> On Sat, 17 Mar 2012 19:54:22 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
>

Or just look on the bar and buy a chain with the size and driver
number specified on it. I don't think think there are any bars
anymore that don't have the info stamped right on them. I could be
wrong tho, just ask my wife.

Harry K

[DerbyDad03]

re: "I don't think think there are any bars anymore that don't have

the info stamped right on them."

I assume by "anymore" that you are referring to "age of bar", right?

I'm assuming that you mean all "newer" bars have that info on them.
Since you have no idea how old my saw is, you can't possibly know if
mine fits the "anymore" category. And I mean that in the nicest
way. ;-)

The fact is, your wife is right...meaning that you aren't.

The only numbers stamped on my bar are PA01222 and F1*. The PA number
is the part number for the bar.

The manual does say that I need a 56 driver chain for that bar, so the
generic packaging at Home Depot was right.

Anyway, thanks for the info. The stumps are cut, the chain is probably
ruined, but the $16 doesn't hurt too badly.

[Harry K]

OK.

No, your chain is not ruined, all it needs is to be sharpened again.
Usual charge at a shop will run from $7 (my dealer) to $10.

Harry K

[DerbyDad03]

> Harry K- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

I just called a local saw shop and a mower repair shop. They both get
about $10 to sharpen a chain.

For $16 I can get a new one.

Here's a non-sarcastic question, even though it sounds like one...

Why would I make 2 special trips to a shop (drop off and pick up) for
a resharpened chain when I can pick up a new one during any of my many
trips to the borg for only $6 more? In addition, it would take less
time since I can simply grab the chain off the shelf and not have to
deal with counter staff or wait in line. The borgs are on my regular
driving routes while the shops are out of the way. I would need to
subtract fuel costs (admittedly minimal) from that $6 savings.

I don't use my chain saw enough that the extra $6 will occur very
often, maybe 2 to 3 times a year to cut up small branches for back
yard fires.

Would the resharpened chain be any better than the factory sharpness,
perhaps making it a better deal? Should I spend more money on a better
quality "saw shop" chain and then have it sharpened by them as needed?

[Harry K]

As time goes on, you will be paying that extra $6 multip tims. It is
not difficult

The real answer is to learn to sharpen it yourself. With our attitude
toward the cost of things, invest in a carbide chain for that saw and
it will stay sharp a lot longer.

Harry K

[Harry K]

Man, I messed up that post badly. Try again:

As time goeson you will be paying that $6 multiple times. The real
answer is to learn to sharpen it yourself - it's not difficult. For
around $6 you can get a file guide with instructions and a file and be
set to resharpen. That $16 chain should last you more than 10 years
per your useage.

A carbide chain might be an sanwer - they will stand a lot of abuse
and still cut.

BTW. Teh tone of each an every one of your replies to me has been
over the top sarcastic. If you don't want advice, don't ask!

Harry K

[evan.o...@gmail.com]

Seriously?? At this point I would advise you to put down the saw and hier it done. If you look at your chain their will be two or so lines on the top of your cutting teeth, use them! Let's you know the degree and where of your chains teeth. But by all means, buy a new chain for every use!! Please buy it from the shop that takes care of you though, not the depot or the like.
If you spend 10 dollars once a month for a sharp chain it's $120. Buy a new one it's $172 plus, math is simple