Schlage Deadbolt Problem

[Robert E. Lewis]

I am having a recurring problem installing a Schlage
double-cylinder deadbolt lock:

First is the problem of getting the "cylinder bars"
(the 1/4" by 1" flat bars that insert through the
bolt) into place: The bars need to stick out straight,
to stab into the deadbolt, but in fact the bars are
just loosely slipped in place (and fall out easily),
turn out of proper alignment at the slightest bump,
and droop down instead of sticking out straight.

Barring a dose of Viagra for the pins, would it work
to use a dab of very heavy grease on the pins/cylinders,
to stick the pins in the correct position?

Second, I am repeatedly having a problem with the
interior cylinder not working. It works fine when
I assemble the lock outside the door prior to
installing it, but when I install it in the door,
the exterior cylinder works fine, but the interior
cylinder is very stiff, and if forced, will throw
the bolt once, but then the cylinder pin again
twists out of position (the key turns freely, but
the bolt doesn't move). This has happened now on
two identical locks - same situation with just the
interior cylinder not working.

Obviously something going wrong in the installation.
Any ideas what, and how to install it right?

Finally, I bought the Schlage lock to have it keyed
to match an already installed Schlage lock. Can I
get a different brand of lock keyed to match the
other Schlage lock?

Thanks for any advice.

-- Robert

[dave_fr...@myremarq.com.invalid]

If you don't get many responses here, I suggest you try
alt.locksmithing. They are pretty good at responding over there.

1. You need to get the 2 deadbolt halves pretty close together and you
should be able to align them by sighting along the edge of the door.
Doesn't the hole in the bolt tend to hold up the square "driveshaft"?
2. Deadbolt door holes need to be bored pretty accurately. Sometimes
you have to manually align the 2 halves and the bolt for smoothest
overall operation. A binding deadbolt is generally a result of
misaligned holes.
3. Special keyway cylinders are avail. to use one manufacturers key in
another manufacturers lock.

* Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet's Discussion Network *
The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet - Free!

[Bob]

Try shifting the inside/outside halves to different locations within their
movement range as you tighten the screws to get the alignment better. Often,
the lock will work before, but not after, you tighten the screws. Getting
the alignment right may correct this. It may also be a problem if the
"cylinder bars" are too long. They should not stick much through the center
mechanism or alignment gets more critical.

Bob

[Robert E. Lewis]

Thanks for all the response to my question.

I got the lock together - I discovered what I *think*
was the problem taking the lock apart to try some
of the suggestions (here and from Schlage): The
chiseled-out recess for the screwplate on the deadbolt
was *very* slightly uneven - so slight that it wasn't
really visible, but I could feel that it wasn't sitting
flush all the way across.

I removed the deadbolt, shaved out a very minute amount
of wood from one side of the hole, fit it back together
and it works just fine.

(I still think the lock would be a heck of a lot easier
to install if the bolts holding it together were 1/8 inch
longer, and the cylinder drive pins were a single solid
shaft instead of the loose-fitting split pins.)

-- Robert