Can't tell w/o seeing but almost certainly you'll have to get to it to
either add structure or replace it for a permanent fix. If it is
steel and accessible from below and you have clearance over the garage
door, I suppose it would be theoretically possible to add some
additional strength there but you still need a structural guy to come
look and determine what is the root cause and the needed fix.
As a note, "best" and "cheapest" are almost always dichotomous notions
and I suspect that is the case here...
Onions are not a good choice for structural materials.
Is the structure double-wythe brick, or a brick facade
over a wood frame? Are you sure the crack is because
the lintel isn't adequate, and not because the whole
foundation is moving, or because the roof
is spreading the tops of the bearing walls?
The fact that the crack started at the window makes me
a little suspicious. If it was sagging, I'd expect the
crack to start at the top of the door and work it's
way up. Does a straightedgee show sagging?
How much headroom do you have
in the doorway? Is the room above the garage finished space,
or can you get at the structure from the inside?
How much ugly are you willing to put up with?
If you can spare the headroom, the SIMPLEST fix
would be to jack the middle of the door back into
place, and weld a big chunk of angle iron to the
underside of the existing lintel to
reinforce it. I'd seriously consider
running cable and a turnbuckle under the window
across the whole width of the garage, while you're
at it.
"Daniel Fenner" <dbfe...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1178023163.1...@y80g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
>I love lentil beans
>
Me too.
I wouldn't know what lintel meant if it weren't for my Block City. My
best friend had Brick Town.
I guess they have both been replaced by Leggos.
Thanks for the info Mark. I put up a supporting post yesterday and am
waiting for a couple more estimates before I have the work done.
Thanks for your reply. The crack actually started at the headers, I
just wasn't clear in my explanation. And yes, the beam does show
obvious sagging. You mentioned the roof possibly spreading the tops
of the bearing walls. Can you explain to me in more detail? I've got
a structural engineer coming out today to look at the problem and I'll
be curious to see if he mentions that.
You made an interesting point that the masonry "is supposed" to be
fastened every couple of feet. If I find out this is not the case, is
the home builder somehow liable for this problem? The house is only 8
years old and it's my understanding that under Oklahoma state law,
home builders are required to have a 10 year warranty on their homes
(looking into the details of this). Any thoughts? I'm hoping for an
inexpensive fixso that I don't have to go the legal route.
>On May 1, 11:04 am, Goedjn <p...@mail.uri.edu> wrote:
It was just an alternative explanation for the cracking
if the problem wasn't a sagging lintel. Since you have
an obviously sagging lintel, spreading is probably a non
issue.
--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
dgri...@7cox.net
"Daniel Fenner" <dbfe...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1178106948.8...@o5g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...
>I love lentil beans
>
I missed out on the bean count.
I like Lima beans.
--
Oren
If your not getting it from the horses mouth, You're listening to the wrong end.