electric burner won't work. 35 y/o GE range, ceramic 'socket'
usethisone2007
burner element (pretty new) won't get warm. I noticed when I looked
closely at the left side of the ceramic socket, the metallic parts
that 'grip' the lead for the burner element seemed to be spread extra
wide..meaning they wouldn't grip the lead very well. I also noticed
the burner's lead that fits into that side of the ceramic socket was
sort of fried looking,
I know the part isn't called a socket and is some sort of 'box' but
I'm wondering how much of it would have to be replaced...or even
better, that I could repair it.
This might be replaced very soon so I don't want to spend anything on
it that I don't have to. I have the model number but I can't find it
now. None of the on line web pages seem to have its model number.
Thanks
Brian
Nate Nagel
probably is called a socket, here's two places I'd try:
http://www.partselect.com/ (I got some parts for a pretty old Modern
Maid stove here)
http://www.triblesapplianceparts.com (I've never ordered anything online
with them as there's two of their brick and mortar stores in my area,
but I've only stumped them once)
good luck
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
buffalobill
mpdsv...@yahoo.com
I'm not an appliance specialist, appliance collector, or
salesman. Just a DIY type. My 1970-ish sears/kenmore
had burner/element issues.
What I did (after unplugging it, and ditching my cig) was: hose
down the sockets with brake parts cleaner, wait 5 mins, a little
more cleaner, brush gently with old tooth brush, then rinse with
some more spray. 40 years worth of crud came out of those
sockets. The burners that occasionally needed a wiggle to
heat up haven't had an issue since.
I wouldn't ignore bad wires or obviously damaged parts in there,
but its a stove.. it makes sense that theres some charred crap
down there from dear departed auntie emma's crap-apple pie.
So clean it up first.
Be warned. brakeparts cleaner evaporates away in a minute, but
its really flammable, and generally nasty shit until it evaporates.
Theres your first $5 spent. Clean up the sockets first.
Last note: I still have that '70 range 'cause it runs perfectly, has
and over-and-under oven (which you just cant get new) and was
built to last, not built with a predetermined failure rate. I'm sure
there wont be many 30 year old stoves hanging around 30 years
from now. Just 5 year olds and 60+ year olds.
MPD
SPAM@verizon.net Anthony Diodati
<mpdsv...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:9b6ea53f-c23b-42be...@1g2000prg.googlegroups.com...
It's called a burner or element "receptacle".
My local appliance store stocks them, He needed a make/model # ,but I
decribed it to him, and he "went right to it". It cost's about $18.00. In my
case it was cheaper to get it local. They also sell on line a universal one,
IIRC it was about $8.00 plus shipping.
Mine was ceramic, with a small nut/bolt running through it.
Shut the breaker, and one sheet metal screw hold's it to the stove top. Then
there are two wires screwed to it. As far as the "fried element contact,
they are coated, and they want you to replace it also if it's corroded, but
you may be able to clean it up a little with some steel wool .
Tony
aemeijers
Take the old one off, and go visit the oldest local free-lance appliance
repair place you can find. They will likely have something in their junk
box or old stock, or maybe in a junk stove out back that hasn't been
recycled yet. Anything from that brand and era is likely to use the same
part.
--
aem sends...
brian
Thanks for that info. Unlike most, you got the gist of my question. I
know its simple to replace the part, but I wanted to try to repair it
first...as you repaired yours, successfully.
I already have the brake cleaner too!
Brian
On May 16, 10:52 pm, "mpdsvil...@yahoo.com" <mpdsvil...@yahoo.com>
wrote:
Tony Hwang
Cleaning won't do much to a worn out metal parts(contacts). It lost
springy tension and litterally worn out. Pretty soon it'll need
replacement. So do it now instead of playing with it wasting your time.
HeyBub
Worst case, you might be able to swap the defective receptacle with one from
a back burner that's seldom used. It's really rare for all four burners to
be in simultaneous use.
SPAM@verizon.net Anthony Diodati
"brian" <mjb...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:06746db9-10b6-47bf...@u36g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
> MPD,
>
> Thanks for that info. Unlike most, you got the gist of my question. I
> know its simple to replace the part, but I wanted to try to repair it
> first...as you repaired yours, successfully.
>
> I already have the brake cleaner too!
>
> Brian
>
>
> On May 16, 10:52 pm, "mpdsvil...@yahoo.com" <mpdsvil...@yahoo.com>
>> salesman. Just a DIY type. My 1970-ish sears/kenmore
>> had burner/element issues.
>> What I did (after unplugging it, and ditching my cig) was: hose
>> down the sockets with brake parts cleaner, wait 5 mins, a little
>> more cleaner, brush gently with old tooth brush, then rinse with
>> some more spray. 40 years worth of crud came out of those
>> sockets. The burners that occasionally needed a wiggle to
>> heat up haven't had an issue since.
>> I wouldn't ignore bad wires or obviously damaged parts in there,
>> but its a stove.. it makes sense that theres some charred crap
>> down there from dear departed auntie emma's crap-apple pie.
>> So clean it up first.
>> Be warned. brakeparts cleaner evaporates away in a minute, but
>> its really flammable, and generally nasty shit until it evaporates.
>> Theres your first $5 spent. Clean up the sockets first.
>>
>> Last note: I still have that '70 range 'cause it runs perfectly, has
>> and over-and-under oven (which you just cant get new) and was
>> built to last, not built with a predetermined failure rate. I'm sure
>> there wont be many 30 year old stoves hanging around 30 years
>> from now. Just 5 year olds and 60+ year olds.
>>
>> MPD
replacing it.
Yes, like others have said, try to dig up a good used one.
Tony
usethisone2007
wrote:
> "brian" <mjb....@gmail.com> wrote in message
I ended up removing and cleaning off the receptacle. It wasn't really
all that cruddy. I managed to pry the 'loose' side of the clamp into a
position where it again applied pressure to the heating element's lead
by using a small allen wrench through the screw hole in the back of
the socket. Seems to work fine for now. I recall forcing the lead into
the socket probably a little harder than I should have with an older
element which I had since replaced. That probably did the damage. I
think it will last until the range gets replaced later this year.
I checked another burner element which wasn't working either. Too much
of the 'springy clip part' had been broken off on that one so I
replaced the entire receptacle for it. Lowes had a GE replacement for
$10.
Essentially, it was the jiggling around and inserting and removing of
the bad element which did the damage. You can't be too rough with
those older sockets.
SPAM@verizon.net Anthony Diodati
"usethisone2007" <usethis...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:35743160-910f-40f7...@b9g2000prh.googlegroups.com...
Good deal. glad you got it going.
Yea,I have read where you should not remove the element too often for
cleaning the top.
In my case, yes the spring part of the receptacle just fell apart, when I
tried to fix it.
Tony
SPAM@verizon.net Anthony Diodati
"usethisone2007" <usethis...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:35743160-910f-40f7...@b9g2000prh.googlegroups.com...
<SNIP>
Good to know, that was cheaper than my local appliance store, never thought
of lowes for that item.
Tony
Tony Hwang
Reversing metal fatigue is impossible. So for all that work, soon it'll
act up again. Needed part is not expensive at HD.