How to drill a 1" hole in a steel-clad entry door

[Rebel1]

I'm installing a peephole viewer that requires a 1" hole in a 1.75"
door. It's item U9896 here:

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?keyword=door+brass+viewer&selectedCatgry=SEARCH+ALL&langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1

From peeking into a pilot hole, the cladding is only 1/16" and the core
seems to be MDF. Would something like this work?

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/accessories/drilling-accessories/metal-drilling/step-drill-bits

Judging from the photo, I need a 1/2" chuck. My drill has a 3/8" chuck,
which means I would have to rent a larger drill. But my local rental
place charges $48 to BUY the bit, and doesn't even have a 1/2" drill for
rent.

Any other suggestions, especially a bit for a 3/8" chuck?


R1

[tra...@optonline.net]

On Apr 19, 2:42 pm, Rebel1 <Reb...@optonline.net> wrote:
> I'm installing a peephole viewer that requires a 1" hole in a 1.75"
> door. It's item U9896 here:
>

> http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?keyword=door+b...

>
>  From peeking into a pilot hole, the cladding is only 1/16" and the core
> seems to be MDF. Would something like this work?
>

> http://www.milwaukeetool.com/accessories/drilling-accessories/metal-d...

>
> Judging from the photo, I need a 1/2" chuck. My drill has a 3/8" chuck,
> which means I would have to rent a larger drill. But my local rental
> place charges $48 to BUY the bit, and doesn't even have a 1/2" drill for
> rent.
>
> Any other suggestions, especially a bit for a 3/8" chuck?
>
> R1

I'd use a regular $10 hole saw that you can find at HD, Lowes, etc.
That will fit your 3/8 drill. You want the ones with the medium
size teeth that are made to cut through many kinds of material,
including metal and wood. I'd go for the one with the smallest
teeth I could find.

Like this:

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/product.do?part=8633&AMAZON

[Oren]

On Thu, 19 Apr 2012 14:42:36 -0400, Rebel1 <Reb...@optonline.net>
wrote:

Look at a 1" Bi-Metal Hole Saw, and buy a mandrel separately (page
bottom).

Example:

<http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/1-Bi-Metal-Hole-Saw/EN/index.htm>

[Rebel1]

Thanks Trader and Oren for leads to products I was unaware of.

Judging by their websites, HD or Lowes don't have a product that meets
my needs.

Ace offers this, with specs saying it is okay for metal, but mandrel
sold separately:
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1333352&kw=hole+saw&origkw=hole+saw&searchId=61046645583

Truvalue comes to the rescue: good for metal and with built-in 3/8"
mandrel. The specs say it's for a drill, but without a pilot bit maybe
they mean it's intended for a drill press and thus would be hard to use
with a hand-held drill against an installed door.

http://www.truevalue.com/product/1-Piece-1-Inch-Bi-Metal-Hole-Saw/33468.uts?keyword=hole%20saw#activeTab0


R1

[denni...@gmail.com]

On Thursday, April 19, 2012 2:42:36 PM UTC-4, Rebel1 wrote:
> Any other suggestions, especially a bit for a 3/8" chuck?

Why does EVERY home improvement project have to be turned into some sort of convoluted drama?

"OH woe is me! I need to drill a 1" hole but alas the only tool I can find in a cursory search will not fit my drill! Alas and alack, as I tried to rent a drill large enough for this tool and there are none to be had. Wail and gnash thine teeth for me, as I am forced to purchase an expensive new drill to fit the tool I randomly chose. Willest not a white knight saveth me in my hour of need?"

It's a frakking 1" hole. There are a dozen different tools hanging on the wall at Home Depot capable of the job that cost less than $40 and will fit your 3/8" drill.

All you need is a decent 1" spade bit. Drill in from one side, then finish the hole from the other. The steel cladding on the door is thin, soft steel. Against the hardened cutter of the spade bit it doesn't stand a chance.

[tra...@optonline.net]

On Apr 19, 4:13 pm, Rebel1 <Reb...@optonline.net> wrote:
> Thanks Trader and Oren for leads to products I was unaware of.
>
> Judging by their websites, HD or Lowes don't have a product that meets
> my needs.
>
> Ace offers this, with specs saying it is okay for metal, but mandrel

> sold separately:http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1333352&kw=hol...

>
> Truvalue comes to the rescue: good for metal and with built-in 3/8"
> mandrel. The specs say it's for a drill, but without a pilot bit maybe
> they mean it's intended for a drill press and thus would be hard to use
> with a hand-held drill against an installed door.
>

> http://www.truevalue.com/product/1-Piece-1-Inch-Bi-Metal-Hole-Saw/334...
>
> R1

I think if you go to HD or Lowes they will have them. I
know I've seen them there before.

[tra...@optonline.net]

On Apr 19, 4:17 pm, "trad...@optonline.net" <trad...@optonline.net>
wrote:

> know I've seen them there before.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Here it is:

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?keyword=bi+metal+hole+saw&selectedCatgry=SEARCH+ALL&langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1

If that link doesn't work, just search on their website for
bi metal hole saw.

[Oren]

On Thu, 19 Apr 2012 16:13:12 -0400, Rebel1 <Reb...@optonline.net>
wrote:

>Thanks Trader and Oren for leads to products I was unaware of.
>
>Judging by their websites, HD or Lowes don't have a product that meets
>my needs.
>
>Ace offers this, with specs saying it is okay for metal, but mandrel
>sold separately:
>http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1333352&kw=hole+saw&origkw=hole+saw&searchId=61046645583
>

Yikes on the price, so they have the size you need? Do you know an
electrician? They often use a bi-metal hole saw and will have
mandrels. Maybe check a local electrical supply house for one.

>Truvalue comes to the rescue: good for metal and with built-in 3/8"
>mandrel. The specs say it's for a drill, but without a pilot bit maybe
>they mean it's intended for a drill press and thus would be hard to use
>with a hand-held drill against an installed door.
>
>http://www.truevalue.com/product/1-Piece-1-Inch-Bi-Metal-Hole-Saw/33468.uts?keyword=hole%20saw#activeTab0
>
>
>R1

No. Don't use that type, it will "walk" all around without a pilot bit
and scar the door -- just to tick you off. :-\

[tra...@optonline.net]

It doesn't stand a chance, that part I agree with.
Whether it will leave a clean finished hole in his
door or tear the crap out of the sheet metal, I
don't know. But that type of bit would not be my
first choice when the right tool is available for $8.

[Oren]

On Thu, 19 Apr 2012 12:48:38 -0700 (PDT), denni...@gmail.com wrote:

>On Thursday, April 19, 2012 2:42:36 PM UTC-4, Rebel1 wrote:
>> Any other suggestions, especially a bit for a 3/8" chuck?
>
>Why does EVERY home improvement project have to be turned into some sort of convoluted drama?
>

This is a DIY group. People ask questions for help.

>"OH woe is me! I need to drill a 1" hole but alas the only tool I can find in a cursory search will not fit my drill! Alas and alack, as I tried to rent a drill large enough for this tool and there are none to be had. Wail and gnash thine teeth for me, as I am forced to purchase an expensive new drill to fit the tool I randomly chose. Willest not a white knight saveth me in my hour of need?"
>
>It's a frakking 1" hole. There are a dozen different tools hanging on the wall at Home Depot capable of the job that cost less than $40 and will fit your 3/8" drill.
>

Reading some of your past postings, you appear to me to be a
progressive liberal "superior thinker". On the attack right out of the
box. Some negative comments without actually trying to answer the
question posed. Am I right?

>All you need is a decent 1" spade bit. Drill in from one side, then finish the hole from the other. The steel cladding on the door is thin, soft steel. Against the hardened cutter of the spade bit it doesn't stand a chance.

Now, smarty pants, tell the OP how to control a spade bit without it
walking around, causing some "convoluted drama".

And before you ask,yes, I could drill the hole with a spade bit.

Get off the soap box!

[Larry W]

In article <4f905c98$0$18880$607e...@cv.net>,

Rebel1 <Reb...@optonline.net> wrote:
>I'm installing a peephole viewer that requires a 1" hole in a 1.75"
>door. It's item U9896 here:

<...snipped...>

>Judging from the photo, I need a 1/2" chuck. My drill has a 3/8" chuck,
>which means I would have to rent a larger drill. But my local rental
>place charges $48 to BUY the bit, and doesn't even have a 1/2" drill for
>rent.
>
>Any other suggestions, especially a bit for a 3/8" chuck?
>
>

A good quality holesaw such as Morse, Starrett, or Milwaukee will go
through several steel clad doors before needing sharpening. Use a drill
that can be slowed down while the bit is in the steel portion, and use some
oil or some kind of lube while it's cutting the steel too.


--
The best argument against democracy is a five-minute conversation
with the average voter. (Winston Churchill)

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

[Pete C.]

All of the step drills I have run across fit a 3/8" chuck just fine.
They usually have three flats on them as well so you don't have to over
tighten the chuck to keep them from slipping. The problem you will
likely have is with the MDF core once you drill to 1" from both sides
which will leave you with something of an hourglass shape hole in the
MDF. You might be able to clear that out with a 1" spade bit if you're
careful, but spade bits don't really like non-piloted use.

[Stormin Mormon]

I was about to type that. Look at the door, inside and out. Carefully choose
your location. Be considerate to the shortest person in the family. Tall man
can bend down a bit.

Mark the location with a pencil. Prick punch to get a starter indent. Drill
totally through the door with a 1/4 bit. Use the hole saw from one side, and
then from the other side.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

<tra...@optonline.net> wrote in message
news:0f9869c5-7342-44da...@12g2000vba.googlegroups.com...

[Stormin Mormon]

IIRC they have a cheaper "one use" version which has the pilot bit already
built in. The pilot bit is essential to keep the hole saw centered.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

<tra...@optonline.net> wrote in message news:74eff725-bfa7-47ed-b984-

[notbob]

On 2012-04-19, Rebel1 <Reb...@optonline.net> wrote:
> I'm installing a peephole viewer that requires a 1" hole in a 1.75"
> door. It's item U9896 here:

First of all, why the Hell is it a one inch hole? It's a peephole,
not a supermax camera. I'd look for a smaller OD optic.


> http://www.milwaukeetool.com/accessories/drilling-accessories/metal-drilling/step-drill-bits

> place charges $48 to BUY the bit, and doesn't even have a 1/2" drill for
> rent.

You're gonna need a step drill, no doubt about it. OTOH, 1/16" thk is
pretty hefty if it's steel sheet clad. If alum, no problem. Yer also
gonna need a 1/2" drill motor. A 3/8" chuck drill motor is jes not
gonna have the power.

Fer gawds sake, stay away from a hole saw unless you have a drill
press or magnetic drill press. Even with a pilot drill, the chances
of breaking or at least spraining yer wrist is HUGE. I'm a machinist
and you couldn't get me to use a hole saw with a hand drill motor,
even at gunpoint.

Geez, donchya got some friends or neighbors? Someone is bound to have
a 1/2" drill motor. I've got 3! I'm remote as Hell, yet still have 3
rental places within 20 mi. Beg, borrow, or steal the 1/2" motor and
mail order a bit.

If you can find a 7/8" OD peephole, you can use a 3/8" chuck drill
motor and pay a reasonable price. Unibit is a good product:

http://tinyurl.com/7m23xbd

nb

--
vi --the heart of evil!

[HeyBub]

We know what you're trying to do.

The only excuse for a 1" peep-hole is so you can shoot through it. Because,
if you're not going to shoot through it, a 3/8" peeper or video camera would
work.

[Oren]

On Thu, 19 Apr 2012 17:52:55 -0500, "HeyBub" <hey...@NOSPAMgmail.com>
wrote:

>The only excuse for a 1" peep-hole is so you can shoot through it. Because,
>if you're not going to shoot through it, a 3/8" peeper or video camera would
>work.
>

...the bullet can come from the outside, too.

"peephole shooter", rings the doorbell, look in the peeper. BANG

Not a size matters situation....

[JIMMIE]

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

On 19 Apr 2012 22:39:47 GMT, notbob <not...@nothome.com> wrote:

>On 2012-04-19, Rebel1 <Reb...@optonline.net> wrote:
>> I'm installing a peephole viewer that requires a 1" hole in a 1.75"
>> door. It's item U9896 here:
>
>First of all, why the Hell is it a one inch hole? It's a peephole,
>not a supermax camera. I'd look for a smaller OD optic.
>
>
>> http://www.milwaukeetool.com/accessories/drilling-accessories/metal-drilling/step-drill-bits
>
>> place charges $48 to BUY the bit, and doesn't even have a 1/2" drill for
>> rent.
>
>You're gonna need a step drill, no doubt about it. OTOH, 1/16" thk is
>pretty hefty if it's steel sheet clad. If alum, no problem. Yer also
>gonna need a 1/2" drill motor. A 3/8" chuck drill motor is jes not
>gonna have the power.
>
>Fer gawds sake, stay away from a hole saw unless you have a drill
>press or magnetic drill press. Even with a pilot drill, the chances
>of breaking or at least spraining yer wrist is HUGE. I'm a machinist
>and you couldn't get me to use a hole saw with a hand drill motor,
>even at gunpoint.
>

It is done every day by hundreds of door installers installing
deadbolts every day of the week. You DO want a "d handle" type drill
with a pipe handle on it if you want an extra level of safety - which
USUALLY means a 1/2" drill - but I've seen commercial duty 3/8 drills
with that feature. With a bit of care a 3/8 drill without the extra
handle can safely do the job. As Stormy said - drill a pilot hole all
the way through first - a size smaller than the pilot drill of the
hole saw is a good idea

>Geez, donchya got some friends or neighbors? Someone is bound to have
>a 1/2" drill motor. I've got 3! I'm remote as Hell, yet still have 3
>rental places within 20 mi. Beg, borrow, or steal the 1/2" motor and
>mail order a bit.

Home Despot rents 'em.

[notbob]

On 2012-04-20, cl...@snyder.on.ca <cl...@snyder.on.ca> wrote:
>
> It is done every day by hundreds of door installers installing
> deadbolts every day of the week.

Hundreds of door installers are either drilling wood or have a
mag-base drill. While I'm sure there are some real gorillas out
there, I'm not one of them. When I was young, strong, and stupid, I
used a custom carbide hole saw with my 400 RPM Milwaukee to drill thru
concrete. Was doing great till the saw struck an embedded steel
I-beam. Ripped that 1/2" motor right out my hand, giving my wrist a
terrible wrench, then continued turninig (lock was on) till it ripped
it's own power cord out by the roots. Never again. ;)

I don't know, perhaps a 1" hole saw wouldn't be too bad. That's not
much side torque if the saw should get tilted and/or the teeth grab.
I've done it more than a few times with larger dia holes. Never again
without some sorta drilling fixture/guide to ensure perpendicularity.
I'm talking strictly metal, now. Wood is a non-issue.

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

I'll use a piloted hole saw - but I'm not stupid enough to use a "hole
cutter" - even in a drill press.

[tange...@toyotamail.com]

On Thu, 19 Apr 2012 14:42:36 -0400, Rebel1 <Reb...@optonline.net> wrote:

>Judging from the photo, I need a 1/2" chuck. My drill has a 3/8" chuck,
>which means I would have to rent a larger drill. But my local rental
>place charges $48 to BUY the bit, and doesn't even have a 1/2" drill for
>rent.
>
>Any other suggestions, especially a bit for a 3/8" chuck?
>
>
>R1

Before spending that kind of money for something you'll use once, pull
the hinge pins and take the door to your local lumber yard, or a machine
shop. They'll make the hole for you, and I doubt it will cost over $10.

But there have been lots of other good advice too.

Plus, dont you know any friends or relatives with tools? A 6pack of
beer will probably get the job done by one of them.

[Rebel1]

Thank you, Dennis, for your gracious, positive contribution.

[Rebel1]

Actually, 1" offers a beautiful view. Trot down to Home Depot and take a
look and compare it to smaller viewers.

[Stormin Mormon]

Press gently, with the spade bit. So you make a lot of metal dust. That
will make a neater, and cleaner hole. Compared to driving hard, and tearing.

Once you get the hole started on the first side. Switch to a standard drill
bit (1/8 is about right). Dill all the way through. Now, you have a starter
hole on the other side. So your two holes line up.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Rebel1" <Reb...@optonline.net> wrote in message
news:4f915949$0$13699$607e...@cv.net...

[Rebel1]

On 4/20/2012 12:39 AM, tange...@toyotamail.com wrote:

>
> Before spending that kind of money for something you'll use once, pull
> the hinge pins and take the door to your local lumber yard, or a machine
> shop. They'll make the hole for you, and I doubt it will cost over $10.

It's a bit tough squeezing a 36x80" door into my Camry trunk. Also, it
would leave the house wide open to burglars while I'm away. I've already
recently been "burgled."

[TimR]

And finally, before you drill that hole, are you sure you need it?

I ask because once at work I was told to drill holes in steel doors
for a similar peephole.

I found the doors were all solid, but - next to a window. (like a
motel room setup)

I couldn't see any point in the peephole, it didn't seem to add any
security to what was already there. Of course my boss told me to do
it anyway, so I did, but at least I raised the issue first.

[deadgoose]

I used a spade bit in such a situation -- 3/4" hole. Did a 1/8" pilot
hole first. Spade bit had to be re-sharpened when I was done, of
course. Easy problem. Run pilot hole all the way through, and drill
from both sides.

/paul W3FIS

[Rebel1]

Since I already had a set of wood-boring spade bits that included 1", I
went ahead and used it successfully, working with a 1/8" pilot hole and
both sides toward the center. Turns out that the thickness of the
cladding is only 1/32" and the core is foam. Here's what I used:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Irwin-1-Lock-N-Load-Speedbor-2000-Spade-Drill-Bit-88816-6pk-/260873813683?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cbd4a7eb3

Many thanks to all for your helpful comments. Dennis was right about the
type of bit to use, despite being designed for wood.

[tra...@optonline.net]

On Apr 19, 8:39 pm, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
> On 19 Apr 2012 22:39:47 GMT, notbob <not...@nothome.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> >On 2012-04-19, Rebel1 <Reb...@optonline.net> wrote:
> >> I'm installing a peephole viewer that requires a 1" hole in a 1.75"
> >> door. It's item U9896 here:
>
> >First of all, why the Hell is it a one inch hole?  It's a peephole,
> >not a supermax camera.  I'd look for a smaller OD optic.
>

> >>http://www.milwaukeetool.com/accessories/drilling-accessories/metal-d...

> >nb- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

>
> - Show quoted text -

I agree with you. It's just thin metal over a wood core. I
would not be afraid of using a decent 3/8 drill and a bi-metal
hole saw. I've done 4 1/2" holes through 4 1/2 thick wood
using them.

[notbob]

On 2012-04-20, Rebel1 <Reb...@optonline.net> wrote:

> both sides toward the center. Turns out that the thickness of the
> cladding is only 1/32" and the core is foam. Here's what I used:

Jes exactly WHAT IS the cladding material? I find it hard to believe
it is steel and you got through it with a spade bit, regardless of
thickness.

[denni...@gmail.com]

On Thursday, April 19, 2012 5:07:42 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
> This is a DIY group. People ask questions for help.

Then ask the question for help instead of prattling on and on with excuses as to why it is "too hard" to fix the problem.

> Reading some of your past postings, you appear to me to be a
> progressive liberal "superior thinker". On the attack right out of the
> box. Some negative comments without actually trying to answer the
> question posed. Am I right?

No, in fact I am a REAL conservative, not what you pretend to be. Honesty. Integrity. Common sense. Personal responsibility.

In this case, there is a clear and absolute lack of common sense, and I'm just being honest.

> Now, smarty pants, tell the OP how to control a spade bit without it
> walking around, causing some "convoluted drama".

He already has a pilot hole: Stick the pointy end in the hole, pull the trigger, slowly push drill bit towards door. Drill halfway through. Go around to the other side. Repeat.

[denni...@gmail.com]

On Friday, April 20, 2012 8:40:41 AM UTC-4, Rebel1 wrote:
> Thank you, Dennis, for your gracious, positive contribution.

You are quite welcome.

[Rebel1]

As Dennis said, it's really a soft steel. A magnet sticks to it. The
seal around the door is also magnetic, like on a refrigerator, for a
good weather-proof seal.

My micrometer gives the actual thickness of the steel as 0.026".

R1

[Gordon Shumway]

On Thu, 19 Apr 2012 13:27:10 -0700, Oren <Or...@127.0.0.1> wrote:

>On Thu, 19 Apr 2012 16:13:12 -0400, Rebel1 <Reb...@optonline.net>
>wrote:
>
>>Thanks Trader and Oren for leads to products I was unaware of.
>>
>>Judging by their websites, HD or Lowes don't have a product that meets
>>my needs.
>>
>>Ace offers this, with specs saying it is okay for metal, but mandrel
>>sold separately:
>>http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1333352&kw=hole+saw&origkw=hole+saw&searchId=61046645583
>>
>
>Yikes on the price, so they have the size you need? Do you know an
>electrician? They often use a bi-metal hole saw and will have
>mandrels. Maybe check a local electrical supply house for one.
>
>>Truvalue comes to the rescue: good for metal and with built-in 3/8"
>>mandrel. The specs say it's for a drill, but without a pilot bit maybe
>>they mean it's intended for a drill press and thus would be hard to use
>>with a hand-held drill against an installed door.
>>
>>http://www.truevalue.com/product/1-Piece-1-Inch-Bi-Metal-Hole-Saw/33468.uts?keyword=hole%20saw#activeTab0
>>
>>
>>R1
>
>No. Don't use that type, it will "walk" all around without a pilot bit
>and scar the door -- just to tick you off. :-\

Isn't that why they have the hole for the 1/4" drill bit? That type
is an excellent choice. I don't have that brand. Mine are the red
ones.

[Stormin Mormon]

I feel like I'm all alone in the room, talking to myself.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Gordon Shumway" <Rho...@Planet.Melmac> wrote in message

[Gordon Shumway]

And your point is???

[Stormin Mormon]

I told the OP how to make a nice hole. And this is my thanks?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Gordon Shumway" <Rho...@Planet.Melmac> wrote in message

news:09l6p7d9mjdmt8n0p...@4ax.com...

On Sat, 21 Apr 2012 19:04:36 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
<cayoung61***spam...@hotmail.com> wrote:

>I feel like I'm all alone in the room, talking to myself.
>
>Christopher A. Young

And your point is???

[Gordon Shumway]

On Sat, 21 Apr 2012 21:25:13 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"

<cayoung61***spam...@hotmail.com> wrote:

>I told the OP how to make a nice hole. And this is my thanks?
>
>Christopher A. Young
>Learn more about Jesus
> www.lds.org
>.
>
>"Gordon Shumway" <Rho...@Planet.Melmac> wrote in message
>news:09l6p7d9mjdmt8n0p...@4ax.com...
>On Sat, 21 Apr 2012 19:04:36 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
><cayoung61***spam...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>>I feel like I'm all alone in the room, talking to myself.
>>
>>Christopher A. Young
>
>
>And your point is???
>

Aw come on, you're almost sounding like our imposter-in-chief trying
to take credit for the increase in oil production in the U.S. since he
took office. I did say "almost." :-)

[Stormin Mormon]

I actually had a useful contribution, though.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Gordon Shumway" <Rho...@Planet.Melmac> wrote in message

news:2gq6p79bp20flas23...@4ax.com...

On Sat, 21 Apr 2012 21:25:13 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
<cayoung61***spam...@hotmail.com> wrote:

>I told the OP how to make a nice hole. And this is my thanks?
>