wires to capacitor on YORK AC unit are burned and melted
Keith Reding
hits. The unit is about 9 years old. Last year, the unit stopped cooling
but the fan still ran fine. The repair guy look at it and the wires going
from the compressor area to the capicator had melted and stopped working.
The repair guy replaced the wires and the capicator. A few months later it
happened again. A different repair from another company installed a heavy
duty wiring kit and the unit worked again for a few months then stopped when
the wires melted again.
Obviously the unit is pushing too much current through these wires. A
friend said that it might have a starter relay on top of the compression
that is not shutting off after the compresser is started. I have not taken
it apart to look.
Does this sound correct? I don't understand why the repair guys wouldn't
know this? Any other suggestions on the cause of the problem?
Thanks,
Keith
TURTLE
"Keith Reding" <kre...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:fmjWb.19502$F23....@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net...
This is Turtle.
First here, If the wires [ like the whole length is melting ] is melted. You
have these things wrong with it. You have too big of a breaker to your
condenser unit or have to reset the breaker every hour or so, The wire kit
he put on it is too small, and You have a shorted out compressor somewhat.
If everything is installed correctly. You can't melt the wires.
Now secondly here. If the end only that tie on to the compressor are
melting about 1 to 3 inches back up the wire from the compressor. You have
rusted or defective terminal on your compressor and not letting the spades
connect correctly. I see this a lot on older equipment and you need a screw
on clamp wire kit. It will have a screw on clamp to tie on to each terminal
of the compressor. You buy them in sets and they will stop the burning of
the terminal off like you have. Now you have only about 3 to 6 burns off
before you burn the terminal off the compressor and then you will buy a new
compressor because you will have nothing to put the clamp on wire kit to
hold the wire on it.
Now Have the breaker / wire sized for the condenser and put a you a clamp on
wire kit on it and forget about it.
TURTLE
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.580 / Virus Database: 367 - Release Date: 2/7/2004
Tony Berlin
"TURTLE" <tur...@worldnetla.net> wrote in message
news:c0cn8t$1569a5$2...@ID-79743.news.uni-berlin.de...
There is no such thing as a shorted out compressor, somewhat. It's either
shorted out or it is not.
Keith the correct answer to your question, or at least as correct as any
observation can be using the information available and considering this is
as I always say the internet. Each of the three wires on your compressor
represents it's own respective winding in the compressor. Each, when
excessive current draw is present, indicate to a competent (dare I say that
word here), technician the correct path to follow with respect to
troubleshooting. So in order to even begin to remotely guess at the problem
one would need the information specific to which wire is carring excessive
current. Even though they all may indicate excessive current, simply due to
the proximity of one to the other, there is one that is the actual carring
the excessive current. With that being said, the first thing a service tech
would do is use an Amprobe to determine the actual draw in each conductor, I
further suspect that your friends assesment is incorrect, if what he
indicated to you were true, you would get zero run time out of the
compressor, it would quickly overheat and cut out on an embedded thermal
overload-quickly, not a few days, few weeks or few months. There would also
be other indicative attributes that you have not mentioned.Since from what I
read the most educated observation that can be concluded is that the problem
is associated with the run winding, assuming the capacitor that your are
referring to is in fact the run capacitor and not the start capacitor. There
are a multitude of factors that can contribute to issues with the run
winding in the compressor. To begin with the run cap itself can be
defective, has anyone tested or replaced it? A dirty condenser coil will
increase the current draw on both the run and common windings in the
compressor, has the coil been cleaned thorughly since the issues originally
occured. For the same reason that a dirty coil can cause it, so to can a
condenser fan that is not performing to design requirements, if enough heat
is not being rejected at the condenser because of dirt or a bad or faulty
fan it will be indicated in the compressor current draw. Oversizing wires,
if that is in fact what the latter contractor did, is not only bad practice
and stupid it is also dangerous. The wiring within the equipment is the size
(AWG), that it is for a reason. And finally, even though it would be
premature, provided the equipment is properly maintained, the fault may in
fact be a defective compressor, it certainly would not be unheard of. I
would contact a competent service company that uses meters to determine
cause.
Stormin Mormon
I've been posting to home repair for a couple years. I've read Turtle's
posts for several years, and he's been a real wealth of information. He's
solved problems for myself, and many others.
I'm not quite so sure about you, though. However, it is very possible
that I'm mistaken. Lets see if maybe I'm mistaken. How about you answer a
couple questions for me. I'm a rather new heating and AC tech, so here's a
great chance for me to learn.
1) You say that each of the three compressor terminals represents its own
winding. I know of two windings, but you say there are three. What are the
names of the three windings, and what do they each do?
2) What are the names of the electrical terminals on a typical compressor?
What does each terminal do?
3) In terms of temperature, what happens when a terminal is corroded, and
trying to carry current? And in terms of the electrical flow, what happens
when a terminal is corroded?
4) What is the electrical current path through a compressor? For example,
which terminal is hot, and which is neutral?
I will likely be working on condensing units this summer, and perhaps some
of your answers will help me to be a better technician.
--
Christopher A. Young
Jesus: The Reason for the Season
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com
"Tony Berlin" <tbe...@bluemarble.net> wrote in message
news:402a16b4$0$29602$39ce...@news.twtelecom.net...
CBhvac
"Stormin Mormon" <cayoung61-#spamblock*-@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:c0dctq$14l9i4$1...@ID-216852.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Dear Tony,
> I've been posting to home repair for a couple years. I've read
Turtle's
> posts for several years, and he's been a real wealth of information. He's
> solved problems for myself, and many others.
> I'm not quite so sure about you, though. However, it is very possible
> that I'm mistaken. Lets see if maybe I'm mistaken. How about you answer a
> couple questions for me. I'm a rather new heating and AC tech, so here's a
> great chance for me to learn.
You are a hack, nothing but a halfassed locksmith that claims to be a
tech....
>
> 1) You say that each of the three compressor terminals represents its own
> winding. I know of two windings, but you say there are three. What are the
> names of the three windings, and what do they each do?
If you dont know, you are over your head already.
>
> 2) What are the names of the electrical terminals on a typical compressor?
> What does each terminal do?
It sits there and sings dixie every once in a while..
>
> 3) In terms of temperature, what happens when a terminal is corroded, and
> trying to carry current? And in terms of the electrical flow, what happens
> when a terminal is corroded?
Ok...you can stop with the jokes now...Mr hvac tech..
>
> 4) What is the electrical current path through a compressor? For example,
> which terminal is hot, and which is neutral?
There ISNT a neutral in a compressor on a home central system moron.
>
> I will likely be working on condensing units this summer, and perhaps some
> of your answers will help me to be a better technician.
No...4 years of tech school might.
CBhvac
"Keith Reding" <kre...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:fmjWb.19502$F23....@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net...
> hits. The unit is about 9 years old. Last year, the unit stopped cooling
> but the fan still ran fine. The repair guy look at it and the wires going
> from the compressor area to the capicator had melted and stopped working.
> The repair guy replaced the wires and the capicator. A few months later
it
> happened again. A different repair from another company installed a heavy
> duty wiring kit and the unit worked again for a few months then stopped
when
> the wires melted again.
>
> Obviously the unit is pushing too much current through these wires. A
> friend said that it might have a starter relay on top of the compression
> that is not shutting off after the compresser is started. I have not
taken
> it apart to look.
obviously...no.
You have not given the model number or serial number to the unit. Depending
on the model and serial, you may have a couple of items, and if you will get
that and either post it, or send it this way, we can pull up the unit, and
tell you what is the most likely problem.
>
> Does this sound correct?
Nope...not always.
> I don't understand why the repair guys wouldn't
> know this? Any other suggestions on the cause of the problem?
See the reply above. Once I know what model and run line of unit you have,
then its a simple matter of pulling it up on cd and badda bing...there you
go.
The reason I need that, is that some of those had issues, that looked one
way, and were another.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Keith
>
>
Tony Berlin
don't know the answer to that question, I am not inclined to accept as fact
that you are or have taken training in anything other than ignorance any
idiot with a copy of Goodhart-Wilcox Modern HVAC or the mental capacity to
use a search engine can locate the answers to those questions. The reply I
gave to the question was accurate.....period. And if you did in fact take
training at some community college or whatever mail order course you
subscribed to, I would seek recompense from then......without delay.
"Stormin Mormon" <cayoung61-#spamblock*-@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:c0dctq$14l9i4$1...@ID-216852.news.uni-berlin.de...
Keith Reding
Here are the links to some photos showing the burned wires. I thought the
burned wires were connected to the capacitor but they are not. See the
photos for a better explanation.
http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1833.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1834.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1835.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1836.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1837.jpg
Thanks for your help.
Keith
"CBhvac" <stephenaddresss...@carolinabreezehvac.com> wrote in
message news:mlrWb.427$xd5....@eagle.america.net...
TURTLE
"Tony Berlin" <tbe...@bluemarble.net> wrote in message
news:402a16b4$0$29602$39ce...@news.twtelecom.net...
>
This is Turtle.
Hummmmmm , You must not have checked too many compressor lately have you.
The test to check for a shorted or internal short from one pole to the other
is to use a OHM meter and see if you have a path to gound first and then
read each of the terminal to the other to see if you have the correct ohm's
throught each. You read from R to S and get the ohm reading and then read
from R to C and S to C and add the two together and you should get the ohm
reading you got by reading R to S. If they don't match you have one winding
touching the other some where in side the motor it'self. They can still run
with a bleed over. Now for a simple explained condition of this is when you
hear a tech say That compressor is just high amping too much or just pulling
too many amps. This is what he is telling you here. A short out compressor
does not have to be to ground and can be a short from one winding to the
other and when I say somewhat. This is what I'm speaking of.
There is a reply below here too.
You are saying here that the problem may lie with the run winding because
the run capasitor or maybe the start capasitor maybe defective. I maybe
catching or reading you wrong here by you saying the run capasitor or the
start capasitor is in the run winding circuit in some way. I can't remember
here , is the run capasitor in the run winding ? Clear this up for me.
>A dirty condenser coil will
> increase the current draw on both the run and common windings in the
> compressor,
Your saying the amps will go up on the Run winding and the Common winding. I
have never heard of a common winding on single phase compressors in my 40
something years in the business. They have a Common winding on 3 phase stuff
but not on single phase stuff. Clear this up for me.
>has the coil been cleaned thorughly since the issues originally
> occured. For the same reason that a dirty coil can cause it, so to can a
> condenser fan that is not performing to design requirements, if enough
heat
> is not being rejected at the condenser because of dirt or a bad or faulty
> fan it will be indicated in the compressor current draw.
If the condenser fan motor is too slow / wrong blade / wrong R.P.M. / or
just not moving enough air throught the condenser and causing the compressor
to over amp. You will see a 90 to 100 psi suction and a 400 to 500 psi head
pressure on the freon system. Then you say the amp will go up to enough to
burn the wires off the compressor. If the amperage goes above the rated
limit of the compressor more than 5 minutes. The compressor will cut out on
high temp or high amps. If the amperage goes up enough to melt the wires to
the compressor the service breaker or the internal overload will trip and
cut it off. I just can't see the amperage staying above 60 to 90 amps for
very long at all with out something cutting it off. One other thing here. If
the amperage goes above the rating limit of the compressor more than 5
minutes it will turn off for 2 to 4 hour while it cools off. Clear this up
for me.
>Oversizing wires,
> if that is in fact what the latter contractor did, is not only bad
practice
> and stupid it is also dangerous. The wiring within the equipment is the
size
> (AWG), that it is for a reason.
You say by using a larger compressor wire kit is Stupid and is also
Dangerous. You also said the wire to the compressor is designed to be a
exact size [AWG] and you should not go up on it. I just don't see any danger
in upping the wire size kit to the compressor unless your using the wires as
a fuse and will burn off at a high amp rate. I alway just put a breaker on
the whole condenser and use it and not the compressor wires as a fuse link.
Clear this up for me.
And finally, even though it would be
> premature, provided the equipment is properly maintained, the fault may in
> fact be a defective compressor, it certainly would not be unheard of. I
> would contact a competent service company that uses meters to determine
> cause.
Now this I agree with finally.
TURTLE
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.583 / Virus Database: 369 - Release Date: 2/10/2004
Tony Berlin
performance at all, if it's burning or heating insulation on the wires then
it's running at excessive current which would be checked with an AMMETER, I
certainly do not require either meter selection or use tutorials from
someone who cannot even correctly read a frikkin' post. What exactly, Mr.
Turtle do you believe in all those years of amassing this experience that
you seem so proud of that the alpha designation of C-S-R mean when applied
to a compressor?news:c0dmfc$16buqp$1...@ID-79743.news.uni-berlin.de...
Tony Berlin
flushed?news:jjsWb.164$tL3...@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net...
TURTLE
> I will simply answer your question by replying to the first part, since
you
> don't know the answer to that question, I am not inclined to accept as
fact
> that you are or have taken training in anything other than ignorance any
> idiot with a copy of Goodhart-Wilcox Modern HVAC or the mental capacity to
> use a search engine can locate the answers to those questions. The reply I
> gave to the question was accurate.....period. And if you did in fact take
> training at some community college or whatever mail order course you
> subscribed to, I would seek recompense from then......without delay.
This is Turtle.
I wouldn't either if i didn't know how to.
TURTLE
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Keith Reding
technicians who worked on it. One tech said that he would be glad to keep
charging me $100 for each visit to replace the wires. Otherwise, I should
buy a new unit. I will do that if I have to but not sure I need a new unit
to fix the problem.
I bought the house 4 years ago and the unit was about 5 years old when I
bought the house. I don't know that is has ever been flushed. Neither tech
suggested that to me.
Keith
"Tony Berlin" <tbe...@bluemarble.net> wrote in message
news:402a611f$0$13233$39ce...@news.twtelecom.net...
PJx
Tony, you are dumber than a stump.
TURTLE
> It's obviously not a dead short numb nuts or the damn thing wouldn't
provide
> performance at all, if it's burning or heating insulation on the wires
then
> it's running at excessive current which would be checked with an AMMETER,
I
> certainly do not require either meter selection or use tutorials from
> someone who cannot even correctly read a frikkin' post. What exactly, Mr.
> Turtle do you believe in all those years of amassing this experience that
> you seem so proud of that the alpha designation of C-S-R mean when applied
> to a compressor?
This is Turtle.
OH My GOD , You give me a hard one here. Look Son i don't have all day to
explain to you the wire design of compressors but will shorted it to this.
If you call a start winding a common winding , you say too big of wire on a
compressor is dangerous, you say the capasitor is in the run winding
circuit, you don't know what a bleed circuit is inside a compressor is or
shorted winding & still run, and you say a condenser motor running too slow
can burn the wires off a compressor. I will tell you one thing. I have some
Green Tech working for me that would get a laugh out of your replys. If you
want to clear up your reply and the question i ask you , do so. Please do ,
I would be interested in hearing them. Now when a poster starts asking
question in the place where there should be a answer. I take it he / she
does not know the answer and just side stepping the question ask of them by
changing the subject by asking a question.
Now until you answer my question , i will take it that you are a wantabe
hvac Tech in the making.
Now if you would like to ask any question about hvac or Refrigeration. Ask
away and I don't give Bullshit answers like you do.
TURTLE
> The unit is a York Model H2DAQ42SQ6A. The Serial Number is ELBM396211.
>
> Here are the links to some photos showing the burned wires. I thought the
> burned wires were connected to the capacitor but they are not. See the
> photos for a better explanation.
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1833.jpg
> http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1834.jpg
> http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1835.jpg
> http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1836.jpg
> http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1837.jpg
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Keith
This is Turtle.
You can stop right here for i'm looking at the effect of a loose connection
wire burn out. I see them all the time when the connection of the wire is
not tight and it will just burn off. Replace the contractors and run new
wire to the compressor to the contactor and you will never hear from it
again , but tighten the connection real good and don't use the male spades
if all possible , also.
TURTLE
> I have not taken any measurements on the unit, neither did any of the
> technicians who worked on it. One tech said that he would be glad to keep
> charging me $100 for each visit to replace the wires. Otherwise, I should
> buy a new unit. I will do that if I have to but not sure I need a new
unit
> to fix the problem.
>
> I bought the house 4 years ago and the unit was about 5 years old when I
> bought the house. I don't know that is has ever been flushed. Neither
tech
> suggested that to me.
>
> Keith
>
This is Turtle.
If the Tech / service company can't tighten up the connection enough to keep
them from burning off. Two thing is taking place here. 1) He is wanting to
sell you a new condener by leaving the connection loose and let them burn
off. 2) The tech just does not know how to tighten up the connection
correctly.
Run their ass off before the mess something up here and you may really have
to buy a condenser.
RB
RB
Al
I'm not a HVAC technician, but I am an electrical engineer with 15 years of
experience testing contactors and relays. The photos show that the terminals
are corrode; chances are, the contacts of the contactor are as well. Fungus,
corrosion, and normal usage can cause an increase of resistance on
electrical contacts. An increase of resistance will cause a voltage drop to
appear across the contacts of the contactor thus making the contacts
dissipate more power (heat). From what I see, the wires are burned near the
relay. I have seen this condition many times in relays that were under
test. The contacts get hot enough to melt the insulation on the wires near
the relay but not hot enough to melt the relay. Replace the relay and the
wires and that should solve your problem.
Turtle is a smart cookie.
Keith Reding
capacitor. The second time it was at the relay. The third and current time
is at the relay but the wires going to the capacitor looks fine. I will
replace the relay and wires and hopefully that will make a difference. Each
time I have had burned or melted wires they have been at the connectors so
hopefully this will fix the problem.
Thanks to everyone for their assistance.
Keith
"Al" <ReplyToN...@NotGoodAddy.com> wrote in message
news:mXwWb.1943$jx3.1...@twister.southeast.rr.com...
Chris Lewis
> There is no such thing as a shorted out compressor, somewhat. It's either
> shorted out or it is not.
Not true. A single adjacent shorted out winding will cause the current
draw to go way up, but the motor will usually still turn fine (more or less).
I think Turtle may be drawing attention away from the right thing to check,
but he's quite right insofar as motors can easily draw more than they should.
Ie: shorted windings, stiff bearings or seals, etc.
The fact that the condenser wiring is melting is very suggestive (especially
after wiring and condensor replacement), not of a winding or condensor
problem (a shorted condensor could do this), but that of the start switch.
_Normally_, the condenser is only connected to the start winding for
a few seconds at most while the motor is getting up to speed. Once the motor
nears operating speed, the condensor and start winding are switched off.
The condensor wiring shouldn't be in-circuit long enough to get hot even
if it is drawing too much current.
Having the condensor wiring overheat is suggestive of one of two things:
1) the start switch is malfunctioning and holding the start winding
in-circuit too long, and (possibly in addition), there's a short in
the start winding and it's pulling too much current when it is
in-circuit.
2) The motor is taking WAY too much time to get up to speed (bad
bearings, semi-seized seals etc), and hence the condensor circuit
is remaining in-circuit MUCH too long.
There are other possibilities (ie: the condensor capacitive value is
_grossly_ wrong, but unless you have gremlins running around replacing
start condensers without you knowing it ;-), unlikely)
Motor windings rarely fail and are quite expensive to "repair", so I'd
concentrate elsewhere first.
I'd look into the start switch and making sure it's not fused (spot
welded) closed. Often just "unsticking it" and polishing it up with
a nail file or similar does the trick.
Also check to see whether there's too much rotation resistance. Maybe
it needs new seals. Or a new compressor. Ugh.
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.
Rex B
For some reason they are attracted to those things like bees to pollen.
Nothing like a dozen flattened insects to raise resisance.
Rex in Fort Worth
Chris Lewis
> "Keith Reding" <kre...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
> news:OqtWb.231$tL3...@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net...
> > I bought the house 4 years ago and the unit was about 5 years old when I
> > bought the house. I don't know that is has ever been flushed. Neither
> tech
> > suggested that to me.
> This is Turtle.
>
> If the Tech / service company can't tighten up the connection enough to keep
> them from burning off. Two thing is taking place here. 1) He is wanting to
> sell you a new condener by leaving the connection loose and let them burn
> off. 2) The tech just does not know how to tighten up the connection
> correctly.
Turtle, I see _significant_ corrosion on the terminal screw (on at least)
the lower of the two hot spots. See first picture - has the best view.
Not only is the screw and metal conductor corroded to crap, the black plastic
(or bakelite) on the terminal is clearly baked and is going to start
disintegrating.
You can winch new wire down as much as you want, but with that much corrosion
on the terminal, it's never going to stay "fixed".
The pictures aren't good enough to tell if the upper terminal connection
is as badly damaged.
That thing appears to be a relay. I think it needs to be replaced or
refurbished somehow. If it's the start relay (see my other posting),
the contacts may also be sticking (or permanently stuck) and be the
original cause of the whole mess.
I can't believe a serviceman would simply replace that wiring harness without
at least commenting about the condition of the relay. Sheesh!
CBhvac
> The unit is a York Model H2DAQ42SQ6A. The Serial Number is ELBM396211.
Thats a Model number: H2DA042S06 style A.
No Q in it.
As information, last date on record for that unit was 11-30-93. It was never
registered under warranty. Gotta love it.
As far as the pics go, you have a very simple problem to fix. As long as the
compressor is not overamping once the job is complete, you are ok. The
contactor is bad, and the terminals are loose....even when they have
replaced the wire.
All the 220VAC leads need to be as tight as possible, otherwise they will
overheat and you get that problem.
Chances are, that the leads to the compressor at the R and S terminals are
loose as well, and will further add to the overheating.
The correct run capacitor for that unit is a 45-5-440, and you better have
that on there as well. if they have not replaced the cap, do so.
The correct contactor for that unit is a single pole, 30 amp, 24v coil, with
shunt. common unit, and the correct part number is 02425835700, Source One.
It is in phase out mode, and the price will be about $26 for the correct
one. The capacitor is a little higher, for the correct York part...they run
according to the listings for about $29.00.
sure, you can get them for less, but as a York dealer, I only use Source One
parts, as I dont have to make any modifications to anything.
Stormin Mormon
toilets? You sure you know something about AC? You sound more like a plumber
who got talked into "Oh, yes! Can you look at my AC".
--
Christopher A. Young
Jesus: The Reason for the Season
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com
"Tony Berlin" <tbe...@bluemarble.net> wrote in message
news:402a611f$0$13233$39ce...@news.twtelecom.net...
Stormin Mormon
--
Christopher A. Young
Jesus: The Reason for the Season
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com
"Tony Berlin" <tbe...@bluemarble.net> wrote in message
news:402a4b86$0$29603$39ce...@news.twtelecom.net...
CBhvac
> Ah, gee. Now we got to install flush valves on condensors, as well as
> toilets? You sure you know something about AC? You sound more like a
plumber
> who got talked into "Oh, yes! Can you look at my AC".
>
Chris..if you had a clue, and you dont, (lets be honest here, and stop
trying to fool folks about your background and knowledge) then you would
know what a condenser flush is. Some also call it a foam out. Others call it
a cleaning.
Either way, the idea is to loosen the accumulated dust, grime and oils from
deep in the fins, flush them out, and restore proper coil to air contact.
IF the coil is clogged, as many are, then the fan amps go down, the fan
speeds up, the heat pressures go up, the compressor amps go up, and if the
compressor does not shut down on thermal, it will overamp and possibly
create in some isolated circumstances the same problem that the OP has.
> --
>
> Christopher A. Young
CBhvac
> Didn't think you knew.
In other words, you are again proving that you are a liar, and a hack..
I dont mince words. You on the other hand, try to swindle, and cheat and
fool people into saying things that will actually help you, and make you
look better.
Get a grip man...you are nothing but a 50 something locksmith, living in a
tin can, in NY, that has an old boss that gave up on you.
Stormin Mormon
his posts, an excellent repairman.
I did look at a couple of the pictures. Since the wire from the cap goes to
a terminal block (and two other things) it makes me wonder if this is a load
carrying wire, not just from the comp to the cap. The wire you pointed to
with the arrow does appear smaller than the other wires.
Wonder if a dab of Noalox would be a good idea for these press on terminals?
Cut down on corrosion.
--
Christopher A. Young
Jesus: The Reason for the Season
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com
"Al" <ReplyToN...@NotGoodAddy.com> wrote in message
news:mXwWb.1943$jx3.1...@twister.southeast.rr.com...
Stormin Mormon
--
Christopher A. Young
Jesus: The Reason for the Season
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com
"Tony Berlin" <tbe...@bluemarble.net> wrote in message
news:402a6097$0$13233$39ce...@news.twtelecom.net...
Stormin Mormon
--
Christopher A. Young
Jesus: The Reason for the Season
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com
"Chris Lewis" <cle...@nortelnetworks.com> wrote in message
news:c0eb0f$15mp0c$1...@ID-118425.news.uni-berlin.de...
go fish
>The unit is a York Model H2DAQ42SQ6A. The Serial Number is ELBM396211.
>
>Here are the links to some photos showing the burned wires. I thought the
>burned wires were connected to the capacitor but they are not. See the
>photos for a better explanation.
>
>http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1833.jpg
>http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1834.jpg
>http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1835.jpg
>http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1836.jpg
>http://home.earthlink.net/~noharmdoneband/Img1837.jpg
>
>Thanks for your help.
>
>Keith
>
Keith, after viewing your pictures and reading the various posts, as a tech I'd
take the following steps to remedy your situation:
1) replace the one pole contactor with another 1 pole contactor, 40 amp rating
2) cut the wiring back to clean, unburnt copper and crimp on eyelet connectors
that attach to the contactor with screw lugs
3) replace the capacitors with either single capacitors rated for their
respective loads (condenser fan motor and compressor) or as CB mentions, the
correct dual cap that originally came with that unit.
4) ensure that the wiring lugs at the compressor terminals are electrically
tight, not corroded, and NOT of the male spade variety, as Turtle mentioned.
Install split bolts if you have to.
5) like the moron tony berlin suggested, flush your condenser. what he really
meant was wash the condenser coils to ensure cleanliness, free from dirt and
debris.
6) ensure every high voltage electrical connection was tight, starting from the
circuit breaker panel, to the disconnect, to the connections inside the
condenser.
7) finally, depending on a lot of factors, i may install a hard start kit. you
see mr berlin, i'd be looking at my startup and RLA AFTER i'd completed ALL of
the above steps.
On a side note CB, your star will shine alot brighter when you cease with your
unprovoked attacks on SM. I give the guy credit for at least asking questions,
its just unfortunate he had to ask them of that brain dead egotistical tony
berlin.
CBhvac
> Hey, Tony, go back to driving a garbage truck. You might do less damage.
>
> --
>
Hey Chris, go back to stealing from drunk women that are locked out....you
might actually get laid.
Keith Reding
was crap and replaced it with the two separate units.
Keith
"go fish" <iove...@aol.comp.mil> wrote in message
news:20040211224601...@mb-m20.aol.com...
CBhvac
> The AC originally had a single capacitor but the first repair guy said it
> was crap and replaced it with the two separate units.
Nope..it wasnt crap..it was the RIGHT part, and it was a GE BTW, one of the
better ones.
What hes done now, is part of your problem.
How does he have them wired? In series, or parallel?
Damn...to think there are techs out there that do that kind of work, and get
away with it.
I normally dont do this, but if you want the right one, I will verify
pricing in the morning, and if you need one, get you a wiring diagram, and
tell you how to fix THAT problem. I am willing to bet that my York supply
has it for less than the dealers net lists it for....since we only use that
for part numbers anyway.
CBhvac
Snip
> Keith, after viewing your pictures and reading the various posts, as a
tech I'd
> take the following steps to remedy your situation:
> 1) replace the one pole contactor with another 1 pole contactor, 40 amp
rating
> 2) cut the wiring back to clean, unburnt copper and crimp on eyelet
connectors
> that attach to the contactor with screw lugs
> 3) replace the capacitors with either single capacitors rated for their
> respective loads (condenser fan motor and compressor) or as CB mentions,
the
> correct dual cap that originally came with that unit.
Read his later post...thats part of his issue for almost sure.
GF..you know me as well as any...and while I agree with you to a point and
respect your thoughts on the matter, the more I read of that morons
postings....well...you already know..
Personally, I take his giving advice as an attack on a trade, that by Keiths
uneducated tech proves, has enough idiots working in it that continue to
pass themselves off as fully trained, and licenced persons.
It bugs me in a way I cant describe.
Keith Reding
help me install the correct cap, especially if I have a wiring diagram.
Keith
"CBhvac" <stephenaddresss...@carolinabreezehvac.com> wrote in
message news:BLDWb.505$xd5....@eagle.america.net...
Stormin Mormon
Tony did. With Tony Berlin's bad attitude, I put him in the killfile right
next to CBH.
--
Christopher A. Young
Jesus: The Reason for the Season
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com
"go fish" <iove...@aol.comp.mil> wrote in message
news:20040211224601...@mb-m20.aol.com...
On a side note CB, your star will shine alot brighter when you cease with
Stormin Mormon
providing the answers to the test. Enjoy!
--
Christopher A. Young
Jesus: The Reason for the Season
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com
1) You say that each of the three compressor terminals represents its own
winding. I know of two windings, but you say there are three. What are the
names of the three windings, and what do they each do?
SM: There are two windings. They are the start winding, and the run winding.
I didn't think Tony could answer this one.
2) What are the names of the electrical terminals on a typical compressor?
What does each terminal do?
SM: Common, start, and run. Common acts as a neutral, though on 220 volt
comps, the common terminal is "hot". Start provides for extra torque for
starting. On refrigeration compressors, the start terminal is usually only
powered for a second or two, via a start relay. On AC units, it is often
hooked to a motor run capacitor. Run terminal provides the power to run the
compressor.
3) In terms of temperature, what happens when a terminal is corroded, and
trying to carry current? And in terms of the electrical flow, what happens
when a terminal is corroded?
SM: When a terminal is corroded, it provides a resistance. Also can be
called a "load". This blocks or reduces the flow of electricity, and turns
the electricity to heat energy.
4) What is the electrical current path through a compressor? For example,
which terminal is hot, and which is neutral?
SM: During startup (of start relay units) power is supplied to the S
terminal, and exits through the C terminal. After the compressor motor
starts, power is then supplied to R terminal,a nd exits through the C
terminal. In some AC compressors, the power is applied to R terminal, using
C for neutral. S and R terminals goes to a motor run capacitor.
CBhvac
> Actually, I know all the answers to the questions I asked -- I didn't
think
> Tony did. With Tony Berlin's bad attitude, I put him in the killfile right
> next to CBH.
Thats hilarious, since you reply to me everywhere else, including your
little Yhoo group...:)
And Chris, I dont have a bad attitude...I hate that you are giving answers
to things you have no clue about....and have given wrong, and at times,
dangerous advice.
You are an amatuer, playing pro...and that, is just wrong.
CBhvac
> In order to assist Tony (whose messages no longer appear on my screen) I
am
> providing the answers to the test. Enjoy!
and as normal, you only have part of the answer..
What if you are dealing with a 3 phase unit???
Try again.
>
> --
Chris Lewis
> Did you see how rusty that compressor capacitor (condensor, for Brits?) is?
ITYM the damage on the contactor/relay terminal screw?
Yeah.
TURTLE
"Chris Lewis" <cle...@nortelnetworks.com> wrote in message news:c0ebq9$164qtf$1...@ID-118425.news.uni-berlin.de...
This is Turtle.
He wants to see a condenser unit when it burns again.
TURTLE
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.583 / Virus Database: 369 - Release Date: 2/11/2004
TURTLE
"Rex B" <NOSP...@REMOVEtxol.net> wrote in message news:402ab029....@news.txol.net...
> Don't be surprised to find that contactor full of ants.
> For some reason they are attracted to those things like bees to pollen.
> Nothing like a dozen flattened insects to raise resisance.
>
This is Turtle.
I got my Computor to zoom in on the contactors for a look at the points of the contactor for to see if or how bad they were burnt
and seen no signs of ants. That thought is a very good ideal to look for because they can take a set of contactor out in just a day
or so.
Stormin Mormon
and the terminals are on the bottom) is rusty. It sure looks to me like the
case of the capacitor is rusty.
--
Christopher A. Young
Jesus: The Reason for the Season
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com
"Chris Lewis" <cle...@nortelnetworks.com> wrote in message
news:c0gdej$17h3q1$1...@ID-118425.news.uni-berlin.de...
coldasice
>
> "Rex B" <NOSP...@REMOVEtxol.net> wrote in message
> news:402ab029....@news.txol.net...
>> Don't be surprised to find that contactor full of ants.
>> For some reason they are attracted to those things like bees to
>> pollen. Nothing like a dozen flattened insects to raise resisance.
>>
>
> This is Turtle.
>
> I got my Computor to zoom in on the contactors for a look at the
> points of the contactor for to see if or how bad they were burnt and
> seen no signs of ants. That thought is a very good ideal to look for
> because they can take a set of contactor out in just a day or so.
>
> TURTLE
>
>
That's because they take soooo many coffee breaks, and always "Forgot
something back at the hill."
--
Aww jeez, now there's some wit-less wing-nut running around claiming you
stole his half.
Chris Lewis
> and the terminals are on the bottom) is rusty. It sure looks to me like the
> case of the capacitor is rusty.
Yup, I see that too. And the other capacitor left and below the contactor/relay
(terminals on the top) may be even worse.
[Didn't get a chance to enlarge the picture and go over it carefully until
now.]
If I recall other postings in this thread correctly, the previous serviceman
replaced the original single-can "dual" capacitor with two singles.
In summary: both capacitors are rusty, and at least one of the
contactor/relay unit connection terminals is more-or-less heat and
corrosion destroyed - the gray/blue "staining" on the terminal mounting
'ear' (plastic or bakelite, likely the latter) shows it's been grossly
overheated - the metal strap and screw are _badly_ damaged, and it should
not be trusted.
[Another terminal may be just as bad, but none of the pictures show
sufficient closeup detail.]
I think the OP needs a _reputable_ serviceman come visit and test out
the entire thing.
If he stays with two capacitors, the one with the terminals facing
"up" should be inverted. As it is, it's a water/rust trap.
Given the sloppy workmanship, I'll bet that the capacitor values are grossly
wrong, which could lead to wires melting too.
Greg O
"Stormin Mormon" <cayoung61-#spamblock*-@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:c0g0gi$16i9hd$2...@ID-216852.news.uni-berlin.de...
> terminal, and exits through the C terminal. After the compressor motor
> starts, power is then supplied to R terminal,a nd exits through the C
> terminal.
you may want to re-think this one Stormy1
Greg
TURTLE
"Greg O" <goo...@cableone.net> wrote in message news:102o3cf...@corp.supernews.com...
This is Turtle.
Refrigerator but not HVAC .
TURTLE
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.583 / Virus Database: 369 - Release Date: 2/10/2004
Stormin Mormon
What does each terminal do?
SM: Common, start, and run. Common acts as a neutral, though on 220 volt
comps, the common terminal is "hot". Start provides for extra torque for
starting. On refrigeration compressors, the start terminal is usually only
powered for a second or two, via a start relay. On AC units, it is often
hooked to a motor run capacitor. Run terminal provides the power to run the
compressor.
--
Christopher A. Young
Jesus: The Reason for the Season
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com
"TURTLE" <tur...@worldnetla.net> wrote in message
news:c0heta$1796kh$1...@ID-79743.news.uni-berlin.de...
CBhvac
> 2) What are the names of the electrical terminals on a typical compressor?
> What does each terminal do?
> SM: Common, start, and run. Common acts as a neutral, though on 220 volt
> comps, the common terminal is "hot"
No..there is NO NEUTRAL on a 220VAC compressor...not single, or 3 phase..you
are wrong.
>. Start provides for extra torque for
> starting. On refrigeration compressors, the start terminal is usually only
> powered for a second or two, via a start relay. On AC units, it is often
> hooked to a motor run capacitor. Run terminal provides the power to run
the
> compressor.
>
>
What ASHRAE site you try to steal that from?
>
> --
TURTLE
"Stormin Mormon" <cayoung61-#spamblock*-@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:c0hkla$16t8c9$3...@ID-216852.news.uni-berlin.de...
> 2) What are the names of the electrical terminals on a typical compressor?
> What does each terminal do?
> SM: Common, start, and run. Common acts as a neutral, though on 220 volt
> comps, the common terminal is "hot". Start provides for extra torque for
> starting. On refrigeration compressors, the start terminal is usually only
> powered for a second or two, via a start relay. On AC units, it is often
> hooked to a motor run capacitor. Run terminal provides the power to run the
> compressor.
>
This is Turtle.
Stormy Listen up. The start winding on a refrigeration compressor will be powered up for no more that 10 seconds and then therelay
cuts power to the start winding and run winding keeps it going.
The air conditioning compressor , the start winding is activatied and keeps power to it when running all the time. This is what I'm
getting at here.
Stormy , Go all out and buy you a Modern Air Conditioning and Refrigeration Book and start reading and it will tell the hell out of
everything we are talking about. You won't have to ask anything but sometime start speaking with some knownledge of what your
speaking about. If you don't have this book to referrence from. Your going to be in the dark all the time.
TURTLE
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.583 / Virus Database: 369 - Release Date: 2/11/2004
Chris Lewis
>
> "Stormin Mormon" <cayoung61-#spamblock*-@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:c0hkla$16t8c9$3...@ID-216852.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > 2) What are the names of the electrical terminals on a typical compressor?
> > What does each terminal do?
> > SM: Common, start, and run. Common acts as a neutral, though on 220 volt
> > comps, the common terminal is "hot"
> No..there is NO NEUTRAL on a 220VAC compressor...not single, or 3 phase..you
> are wrong.
He said that, sorta, only a few sentences later on. Poor phraseology on
his part.
Let me say that differently:
The "C" terminal is _common_. It's the "other end" of the two windings
associated with the "R"[un] and "S"[tart] terminals.
In simpler motors, the run winding is energized all the time, the start
winding is energized (through a capacitor to introduce a phase shift) only
during a few seconds worth of startup.
If only the run winding is energized in a stationary single phase motor, the
motor won't start turning, it'll just hum, because it doesn't have any torque
to initiate rotation. If you give the shaft a twist, it will start turning
and get up to speed (but it'll take a while).
The start winding (through the use of the capacitor introducing a phase shift)
introduces the torque needed to get the motor turning from stationary.
[My old 1HP Sears radial arm saw motor is exactly this.]
Three phase motors don't need start windings, capacitors or start switches,
because they inherently have out-of-phase windings. If you feed a three
phase motor with only one phase (using two of the three windings), it'll
sit and hum too. You can get them to come up to speed by adding an
external "start switch/capacitor" or by twisting them mechanically.
[In fact, many woodworkers "synthesize" three phase power by using a
three phase "idler" motor connected to single phase. Add a start circuit (or
pull cord), and you can drive three phase power tools off the three
terminals on the "idler" motor. These "starter circuits" are available
commercially. The setups are sometimes called "rotary phase converters".
It sounds strange, but it actually works very well.]
I'm not familiar with "run capacitor" single-phase motor theory, so I won't
comment on those. [I could make some intelligent guesses, but I'll avoid
embarassing myself in front of people who do these for a living thank you
very much ;-)]
TURTLE
"Chris Lewis" <cle...@nortelnetworks.com> wrote in message news:c0jdc9$17kpd5$1...@ID-118425.news.uni-berlin.de...
> According to CBhvac <stephenaddresss...@carolinabreezehvac.com>:
> >
> > "Stormin Mormon" <cayoung61-#spamblock*-@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:c0hkla$16t8c9$3...@ID-216852.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > > 2) What are the names of the electrical terminals on a typical compressor?
> > > What does each terminal do?
> > > SM: Common, start, and run. Common acts as a neutral, though on 220 volt
> > > comps, the common terminal is "hot"
>
> > No..there is NO NEUTRAL on a 220VAC compressor...not single, or 3 phase..you
> > are wrong.
>
> He said that, sorta, only a few sentences later on. Poor phraseology on
> his part.
>
> Let me say that differently:
>
> The "C" terminal is _common_. It's the "other end" of the two windings
> associated with the "R"[un] and "S"[tart] terminals.
>
> In simpler motors, the run winding is energized all the time, the start
> winding is energized (through a capacitor to introduce a phase shift) only
> during a few seconds worth of startup.
>
> If only the run winding is energized in a stationary single phase motor, the
> motor won't start turning, it'll just hum, because it doesn't have any torque
> to initiate rotation. If you give the shaft a twist, it will start turning
> and get up to speed (but it'll take a while).
>
> The start winding (through the use of the capacitor introducing a phase shift)
> introduces the torque needed to get the motor turning from stationary.
>
> [My old 1HP Sears radial arm saw motor is exactly this.]
>
> Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
> It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.
This is Turtle.
Star Buck you got it wrong here. We are talking about HVAC compressor and not woodworking equipment. Woodworking equipment will work
like you say but hvac compressors , the start winding will stay powered all the time and start with a hard start kit jumping out of
the run capasitor. it give it a 440 volt shot to get it moving then cut out. The run capasitor will stay in line on the start
circuit all during the run time.
Now the other endless void of knownledge you give us here is nothing but 3 phase motor being run off single phase power supply. i
know of no commercial supplier that supplies such devices except for places in Mexico where they don't have a 3 phase supply of
power, and have run 3 phase motors on single phase. These devices has nothing to do with hvac compressor in the USA for we have good
power supply and don't need second rate running devices to run the equipment. Here is the states if you want more power to run your
3 phase motors we use 480 volt service and motor and you have no power shortage at all.
Chris Lewis
> > [My old 1HP Sears radial arm saw motor is exactly this.]
> > --
> > Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
> > It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.
> This is Turtle.
Yes, I know who it is, the from line says who.
> Star Buck you got it wrong here. We are talking about HVAC compressor and not
> woodworking equipment. Woodworking equipment will work
> like you say but hvac compressors , the start winding will stay powered all
> the time and start with a hard start kit jumping out of
> the run capasitor. it give it a 440 volt shot to get it moving then cut out.
> The run capasitor will stay in line on the start
> circuit all during the run time.
Slow walking soup-beast, you made a very careful point of omitting
the following paragraph betwixt "My old..." and the signature:
> I'm not familiar with "run capacitor" single-phase motor theory, so I won't
> comment on those. [I could make some intelligent guesses, but I'll avoid
> embarassing myself in front of people who do these for a living thank you
> very much ;-)]
Perhaps you should spend a little more time out of your shell reading
the postings you're replying to, and/or, avoid the creative editing
of what you quote.
> Now the other endless void of knownledge you give us here is nothing but 3
> phase motor being run off single phase power supply. i
> know of no commercial supplier that supplies such devices except for places in
> Mexico where they don't have a 3 phase supply of
> power, and have run 3 phase motors on single phase.
No? You don't? Perhaps you shouldn't speak about things you know nothing
about. A simple google search would help you avoid sticking one of those
claw feet in your mouth.
These are specifically for people who want to run 3-phase equipment
(perhaps an old piece of woodworking equipment they picked up at an
auction) and run it when getting 3 phase power may be prohibitively
expensive or simply not available (ie: wierd zoning codes).
Here's just three links to such units or manufacturers of such units.
1) http://www.isomatic.co.uk/3phConverter.htm
2) http://www.thomasregister.com/olc/12521753/phase.htm
3) Lists approximately another _25_ manufacturers of these devices:
http://www.motionnet.com/cgi-bin/search.exe?a=cat&no=4215
#2 has 55,000 of them in the field.
Here's a couple DIY construction articles:
4) http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/phase-converter/3-phase.pdf
5) http://www.laserfx.com/Backstage.LaserFX.com/Hobby/PhaseConvert.html
#5 has a good explanation of why you'd want to do this.
> These devices has nothing
> to do with hvac compressor in the USA
I know that. That was an _aside_.
> for we have good
> power supply and don't need second rate running devices to run the equipment.
> Here is the states if you want more power to run your
> 3 phase motors we use 480 volt service and motor and you have no power
> shortage at all.
Read #5 above. How much would it cost _you_ to get 3 phase into your
garage?
Another aside:
My dad routinely works with electric motors with several thousand horsepower.
Ie: imagine how big a motor you need to drive 5000GPM up a 5000 foot head?
Hint: the impeller is a 12 foot long chunk of stainless formed into 12
stages. The outlet pipe is something like 12" in diameter.
480V doesn't cut it. Some of these motors need a teensy bit more power
than is convenient for 480V. Like 40Kv.
TURTLE
"Chris Lewis" <cle...@nortelnetworks.com> wrote in message news:c0kgsh$187ptr$1...@ID-118425.news.uni-berlin.de...
This is Turtle.
I have read all the bullshit about 3 phase motor and your great endless Void of knowledge of them , but We are not talking about 3
phase motors and do it yourself home 3 phase converters. We are talking about hvac equipment which you have no knowledge of and want
to empress everybody on 3 phase motor knownledge and we are talking about hvac equipment. Now you say your dad is a Bearing man for
G/E on turbine and electric motors. I'm proud of him but he is the one that works on them and not you.
Now again for your benefit here. The thread is about HVAC or Ref. equipment and not G/E Load Builders. Now i would like to ask you
what you do for a living to know if you have any back ground in HVAC / R business for i have been working in the field and run my
own company for the 40 something years. I mostly do HVAC / R systems under 60 tons or less. What do you do for a living ? I know you
will not answer but I ask anyway.
TURTLE
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.588 / Virus Database: 372 - Release Date: 2/13/2004
Stormin Mormon
Did you get it fixed? What did the local guy do to fix it? Seeing as how
you're the one right there with the system, perhaps you can share your
experiences.
Thank you.
--
Christopher A. Young
Jesus: The Reason for the Season
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com
"Keith Reding" <kre...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:fmjWb.19502$F23....@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net...
> I thought I would get my York central AC unit repaired well before summer
> hits. The unit is about 9 years old. Last year, the unit stopped cooling
> but the fan still ran fine. The repair guy look at it and the wires going
> from the compressor area to the capicator had melted and stopped working.
> The repair guy replaced the wires and the capicator. A few months later
it
> happened again. A different repair from another company installed a heavy
> duty wiring kit and the unit worked again for a few months then stopped
when
> the wires melted again.
>
> Obviously the unit is pushing too much current through these wires. A
> friend said that it might have a starter relay on top of the compression
> that is not shutting off after the compresser is started. I have not
taken
> it apart to look.
>
> Does this sound correct? I don't understand why the repair guys wouldn't
> know this? Any other suggestions on the cause of the problem?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Keith
>
>
CBHVAC
> In order to assist Tony (whose messages no longer appear on my screen) I
am
> providing the answers to the test. Enjoy!
>
> --
>
I better intercom my secretary and tell her that I'm not having a heart
attack.
> Christopher A. Young
> Jesus: The Reason for the Season
> www.lds.org
> www.mormons.com
>
>
>
> 1) You say that each of the three compressor terminals represents its own
> winding. I know of two windings, but you say there are three. What are the
> names of the three windings, and what do they each do?
> SM: There are two windings. They are the start winding, and the run
winding.
> I didn't think Tony could answer this one.
And we didn't think you could get it right, either. Hack.
>
> 2) What are the names of the electrical terminals on a typical compressor?
> What does each terminal do?
> SM: Common, start, and run. Common acts as a neutral, though on 220 volt
> comps, the common terminal is "hot". Start provides for extra torque for
> starting. On refrigeration compressors, the start terminal is usually only
> powered for a second or two, via a start relay. On AC units, it is often
> hooked to a motor run capacitor. Run terminal provides the power to run
the
> compressor.
You think we're impressed by this, you fat useless turd?
>
>
> 3) In terms of temperature, what happens when a terminal is corroded, and
> trying to carry current? And in terms of the electrical flow, what happens
> when a terminal is corroded?
> SM: When a terminal is corroded, it provides a resistance. Also can be
> called a "load". This blocks or reduces the flow of electricity, and turns
> the electricity to heat energy.
And we are supposed to bow down to you now? Get a clue, moron.
>
> 4) What is the electrical current path through a compressor? For example,
> which terminal is hot, and which is neutral?
> SM: During startup (of start relay units) power is supplied to the S
> terminal, and exits through the C terminal. After the compressor motor
> starts, power is then supplied to R terminal,a nd exits through the C
> terminal. In some AC compressors, the power is applied to R terminal,
using
> C for neutral. S and R terminals goes to a motor run capacitor.
Ah, you got to be kidding. I've got a crew of a dozen or so men working for
me, I was up to 55 employees at one time. We even had our own changing room
and shower. Wow, did I love making snap inspections in the shower. I think a
couple of the guys started to get nervous being around me, though. Do you
think I was too obvious when I got that earring?
>
>
>
>
>
CBHVAC
> Actually, I know all the answers to the questions I asked -- I didn't
think
> Tony did. With Tony Berlin's bad attitude, I put him in the killfile right
> next to CBH.
>
you see this now?