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Does it matter at all whether PVC unions are on one way or the other?
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Danny D
May 12, 2013, 1:05:29 PM5/12/13
to
I'm a big believer in doing things the right way, or, at least knowing
what the right way is (so that the next time you do it the right way).
So I ask what seems like a very basic question:
Q: Does it matter which direction I put these 2" PVC unions on?
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/12915207/img/12915207.jpg
what the right way is (so that the next time you do it the right way).
So I ask what seems like a very basic question:
Q: Does it matter which direction I put these 2" PVC unions on?
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/12915207/img/12915207.jpg
harry
May 12, 2013, 1:07:14 PM5/12/13
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Oren
May 12, 2013, 2:35:20 PM5/12/13
to
On Sun, 12 May 2013 17:05:29 +0000 (UTC), Danny D <Dan...@example.com>
wrote:
They look fine to me. Dry fit the pipes back to the pumps...
Clean that PVC insert of glue (bottom right) before you glue it in.
wrote:
Clean that PVC insert of glue (bottom right) before you glue it in.
nestork
May 12, 2013, 2:53:33 PM5/12/13
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harry;3060927 Wrote:
> No.
+1
If it mattered, then the manufacturer of the union would mold an arrow
into the side of the union indicating the direction of flow; just like
they do on check valves.
You see arrows like that on globe valves (and I'd expect needle valves
too)cuz the disk is meant to close against the flow. You don't see them
on gate valves, butterfly valves or ball valves cuz in those cases the
closure isn't affected by the direction of flow.
--
nestork
Paul Drahn
May 12, 2013, 4:06:13 PM5/12/13
to
that even though they seem to go together, the threads may not fully
mate, allowing the outside ring to slip when tightened.
Also, if the "O" ring is in the removable part, you will be able to
better keep track of it when it comes out of the groove.
A union that is vertical should have the ring on the upper part. that
way gravity will help getting the threads started.
Otherwise, as stated, not much difference.
Paul
tra...@optonline.net
May 12, 2013, 5:39:30 PM5/12/13
to
On May 12, 4:06 pm, Paul Drahn <pdr...@webformixair.com> wrote:
> On 5/12/2013 10:05 AM, Danny D wrote:> I'm a big believer in doing things the right way, or, at least knowing
> > what the right way is (so that the next time you do it the right way).
>
> > So I ask what seems like a very basic question:
> > Q: Does it matter which direction I put these 2" PVC unions on?
> > http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/12915207/img/12915207.jpg
>
> The black and white one seems to be mismatched. I learned the hard way
> that even though they seem to go together, the threads may not fully
> mate, allowing the outside ring to slip when tightened.
Doh! I warned him about that a few days ago. Said I
> On 5/12/2013 10:05 AM, Danny D wrote:> I'm a big believer in doing things the right way, or, at least knowing
> > what the right way is (so that the next time you do it the right way).
>
> > So I ask what seems like a very basic question:
> > Q: Does it matter which direction I put these 2" PVC unions on?
> > http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/12915207/img/12915207.jpg
>
> The black and white one seems to be mismatched. I learned the hard way
> that even though they seem to go together, the threads may not fully
> mate, allowing the outside ring to slip when tightened.
wasn't sure that half of one union would mate correctly
with half of another, because they may not be designed
exactly the same. I've never tried to do that because
I'd be concerned about it leaking. And also you have
the other half of the new union whether you use it or not.
micky
May 12, 2013, 9:06:57 PM5/12/13
to
right?
I just looked for a black 2" checkvalve and had no trouble finding
one.
**I can't remember if black is PVC, APS, JPG, or whatever.
>
>
Danny D
May 12, 2013, 9:27:52 PM5/12/13
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On Sun, 12 May 2013 13:06:13 -0700, Paul Drahn wrote:
> A union that is vertical should have the ring on the upper part.
Makes sense.
> A union that is vertical should have the ring on the upper part.
Since all mine were horizontal, I simply arbitrarily faced them
all in the same direction (as each other).
That way, I can swap pumps if I ever need to.
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12918658/img/12918658.jpg
Danny D
May 12, 2013, 9:30:17 PM5/12/13
to
On Sun, 12 May 2013 14:39:30 -0700, tra...@optonline.net wrote:
> I warned him about that a few days ago. Said I
> wasn't sure that half of one union would mate correctly
> with half of another
I did read that; and I do agree that I'm putting half an
> I warned him about that a few days ago. Said I
> wasn't sure that half of one union would mate correctly
> with half of another
old union with half a new union.
Time will tell.
Now that the hardest part (the parts at the Jandy valves) has
been cut out, repairs on all other sections should be much
simpler, in case they leak.
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/12918665/img/12918665.jpg
Danny D
May 12, 2013, 10:30:40 PM5/12/13
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On Sun, 12 May 2013 21:06:57 -0400, micky wrote:
> **I can't remember if black is PVC, APS, JPG, or whatever.
The black is black paint on top of white schedule 40 plumbing.
> **I can't remember if black is PVC, APS, JPG, or whatever.
The reason for the black paint is to prevent UV degradation of
the PVC pipes.
I looked it up a while back, and, it turns out that the pipes
get "brittle" in the sun; so they're almost always painted
black if they're outside (like mine are) in the blazing sun.
Here you can see the white pipe hasn't been painted black
yet as I just finished the plumbing today ...
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/12918721/img/12918721.jpg
Danny D
May 12, 2013, 10:32:26 PM5/12/13
to
On Sun, 12 May 2013 20:53:33 +0200, nestork wrote:
> If it mattered, then the manufacturer of the union would mold an arrow
> into the side of the union indicating the direction of flow; just like
> they do on check valves.
This makes sense.
> If it mattered, then the manufacturer of the union would mold an arrow
> into the side of the union indicating the direction of flow; just like
> they do on check valves.
BTW, I just noticed that what I *thought* were schedule 40 unions
were actually schedule 80 unions:
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/12918715/img/12918715.jpg
I wonder why these schedule 80 unions are white and not gray?
Danny D
May 12, 2013, 10:56:20 PM5/12/13
to
On Sun, 12 May 2013 11:35:20 -0700, Oren wrote:
> They look fine to me. Dry fit the pipes back to the pumps...
Do you think I should lubricate the union with pool lube?
> They look fine to me. Dry fit the pipes back to the pumps...
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/12918714/img/12918714.jpg
> Clean that PVC insert of glue (bottom right) before you glue it in
I bought 1" wide 120 grit aluminum oxide sanding cloth:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/12918727/img/12918727.jpg
I took pains to keep the results as perfectly round as possible:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12918728/img/12918728.jpg
Even so, I'm a bit worried because the 2.5" coupling is a tad too large:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/12918726/img/12918726.jpg
But, I had called Jandy & they said simply to use a lot of glue!
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/12918729/img/12918729.jpg
Adding the reducing bushing, the plumbing is back to original 2" size:
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/12918730/img/12918730.jpg
micky
May 13, 2013, 4:06:36 AM5/13/13
to
On Mon, 13 May 2013 02:30:40 +0000 (UTC), Danny D <Dan...@example.com>
wrote:
>On Sun, 12 May 2013 21:06:57 -0400, micky wrote:
>
>> **I can't remember if black is PVC, APS, JPG, or whatever.
>
>The black is black paint on top of white schedule 40 plumbing.
Ah, you mean in the pictures in this thread. At first I thought you
meant all black 2" plastic pipe was white pipe painted black.
wrote:
>On Sun, 12 May 2013 21:06:57 -0400, micky wrote:
>
>> **I can't remember if black is PVC, APS, JPG, or whatever.
>
>The black is black paint on top of white schedule 40 plumbing.
meant all black 2" plastic pipe was white pipe painted black.
Danny D
May 13, 2013, 8:20:51 AM5/13/13
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On Mon, 13 May 2013 04:06:36 -0400, micky wrote:
> Ah, you mean in the pictures in this thread. At first I thought you
> meant all black 2" plastic pipe was white pipe painted black.
I'm no expert, but my pool equipment is white schedule 40 PVC pipe
> Ah, you mean in the pictures in this thread. At first I thought you
> meant all black 2" plastic pipe was white pipe painted black.
painted black to protect it from the sun.
When I went to Home Depot, all the schedule 40 PVC was white; the
schedule 80 PVC was mostly gray (the schedule 80 unions were white);
and the drain pipe was black.
Not sure if that holds true elsewhere though ...
tra...@optonline.net
May 13, 2013, 9:31:45 AM5/13/13
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On May 12, 9:06 pm, micky <NONONOmis...@bigfoot.com> wrote:
> On Sun, 12 May 2013 14:39:30 -0700 (PDT), "trad...@optonline.net"
That isn't the issue. He has a PVC union. The issue is that
one half of a 10 year old union from manufacturer A may not
seal correctly with one half of a new union he buys today from
manufacturer B. It might work, it might not. Unless it's difficult
for some reason to replace the whole union, I don't see why
anyone would screw around. And you already have the other
half paid for, because you can't buy half a union.
>
>
>
> - Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
> On Sun, 12 May 2013 14:39:30 -0700 (PDT), "trad...@optonline.net"
one half of a 10 year old union from manufacturer A may not
seal correctly with one half of a new union he buys today from
manufacturer B. It might work, it might not. Unless it's difficult
for some reason to replace the whole union, I don't see why
anyone would screw around. And you already have the other
half paid for, because you can't buy half a union.
>
>
>
> - Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
tra...@optonline.net
May 13, 2013, 9:37:41 AM5/13/13
to
On May 12, 10:30 pm, Danny D <Dan...@example.com> wrote:
> On Sun, 12 May 2013 21:06:57 -0400, micky wrote:
> > **I can't remember if black is PVC, APS, JPG, or whatever.
>
> The black is black paint on top of white schedule 40 plumbing.
>
> The reason for the black paint is to prevent UV degradation of
> the PVC pipes.
>
> I looked it up a while back, and, it turns out that the pipes
> get "brittle" in the sun; so they're almost always painted
> black if they're outside (like mine are) in the blazing sun.
It seems to me a curious thing that they paint them black.
> On Sun, 12 May 2013 21:06:57 -0400, micky wrote:
> > **I can't remember if black is PVC, APS, JPG, or whatever.
>
> The black is black paint on top of white schedule 40 plumbing.
>
> The reason for the black paint is to prevent UV degradation of
> the PVC pipes.
>
> I looked it up a while back, and, it turns out that the pipes
> get "brittle" in the sun; so they're almost always painted
> black if they're outside (like mine are) in the blazing sun.
Not only is black ugly, but it absorbs more heat from the sun.
White paint would offer UV protection, look better, and
absorb less heat. That's what I use where that is an issue.
Danny D
May 13, 2013, 9:53:44 AM5/13/13
to
On Mon, 13 May 2013 06:37:41 -0700, tra...@optonline.net wrote:
> It seems to me a curious thing that they paint them black.
You have an interesting point there, in that it's the 'paint' and
> It seems to me a curious thing that they paint them black.
not the 'color' of that paint that protects PVC from UV radiation.
Dunno why mine are black ... but ... since they are ... I'm going
to get out my license to prove I'm over 18 and have them unlock
the double padlocked spray paint cage at Home Depot when it's all
working and buttoned up ... and grab me some flat black stuff to go!
Danny D
May 13, 2013, 10:08:19 AM5/13/13
to
On Mon, 13 May 2013 06:31:45 -0700, tra...@optonline.net wrote:
> The issue is that one half of a 10 year old union from manufacturer A
> may not seal correctly with one half of a new union he buys today from
> manufacturer B.
I understand.
> The issue is that one half of a 10 year old union from manufacturer A
> may not seal correctly with one half of a new union he buys today from
> manufacturer B.
If it leaks, I'll replace that part of the plumbing, since, with the
unions, everything should be easy.
If it's any consolation, that unused "yellowed" union is, in fact,
the same age and batch as the existing "blackened" union is.
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/12921651/img/12921651.jpg
To explain further, about a year or so ago, I had replaced a broken
Jandy valve after draining the pool, and at that time, I added the one
now-blackened union on the outlet of the pump. I knew that a union
only on the outlet pipe without a union on the inlet pipe was useless,
but I was adding it knowing that someday (like yesterday) I would
be adding a union to the inlet side of the pump.
I had bought two unions at the time, so I left the unused union
outside in a plastic bucket. Over time, that unused union yellowed.
So, the good news is that the unions are 'matched' in time and batch;
the bad news is that one sat outside in the hot sun for a year.
I'll let you know if it leaks; but if it does, it will be easy to
replace, since the hard part was always the inlet side, and not
the outlet side.
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/12921662/img/12921662.jpg
Note: If it wasn't easy to replace, you can rest assured I would
have used all new equipment!
Oren
May 13, 2013, 11:02:08 AM5/13/13
to
On Mon, 13 May 2013 02:56:20 +0000 (UTC), Danny D <Dan...@example.com>
wrote:
>On Sun, 12 May 2013 11:35:20 -0700, Oren wrote:
>
>> They look fine to me. Dry fit the pipes back to the pumps...
>
>Do you think I should lubricate the union with pool lube?
> http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/12918714/img/12918714.jpg
>
Just lube the O-ring. If fact, the O-rings on the strainer and volute
should be lubed when you put them back together.
(my new pump filter O-ring does not require any lube. The lube is
impregnated into the rubber)
>> Clean that PVC insert of glue (bottom right) before you glue it in
>
>Following the huckleberry trail, I certainly took your advice to heart!
>
>I bought 1" wide 120 grit aluminum oxide sanding cloth:
> http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/12918727/img/12918727.jpg
>
>I took pains to keep the results as perfectly round as possible:
> http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12918728/img/12918728.jpg
>
+1
>Even so, I'm a bit worried because the 2.5" coupling is a tad too large:
> http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/12918726/img/12918726.jpg
>
Why you cut so close to the Jandy valve ... I had said before to cut
close to the pump and keep some pipe for a regular fitting there.
.
done.
>Adding the reducing bushing, the plumbing is back to original 2" size:
> http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/12918730/img/12918730.jpg
One coupling would have avoided using two pieces, adding a place for
potential leaks.
Proceed :-\
wrote:
>On Sun, 12 May 2013 11:35:20 -0700, Oren wrote:
>
>> They look fine to me. Dry fit the pipes back to the pumps...
>
>Do you think I should lubricate the union with pool lube?
> http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/12918714/img/12918714.jpg
>
should be lubed when you put them back together.
(my new pump filter O-ring does not require any lube. The lube is
impregnated into the rubber)
>> Clean that PVC insert of glue (bottom right) before you glue it in
>
>Following the huckleberry trail, I certainly took your advice to heart!
>
>I bought 1" wide 120 grit aluminum oxide sanding cloth:
> http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/12918727/img/12918727.jpg
>
>I took pains to keep the results as perfectly round as possible:
> http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12918728/img/12918728.jpg
>
>Even so, I'm a bit worried because the 2.5" coupling is a tad too large:
> http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/12918726/img/12918726.jpg
>
close to the pump and keep some pipe for a regular fitting there.
.
>But, I had called Jandy & they said simply to use a lot of glue!
> http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/12918729/img/12918729.jpg
>
Should have left some pipe sticking out, for just a single coupling -
> http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/12918729/img/12918729.jpg
>
done.
>Adding the reducing bushing, the plumbing is back to original 2" size:
> http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/12918730/img/12918730.jpg
potential leaks.
Proceed :-\
Danny D.
May 13, 2013, 11:10:48 AM5/13/13
to
On Mon, 13 May 2013 08:02:08 -0700, Oren wrote:
> the O-rings on the strainer and volute
> should be lubed when you put them back together.
Strainer? Volute?
> the O-rings on the strainer and volute
> should be lubed when you put them back together.
Googling ...
Volute: noun, A spiral scroll, Forming a spiral curve or curves
So I assume the strainer is the pool pump basket, which has an
o-ring at the top under the cover, which I do lube with the
pool lube.
And, the volute is most likely the clamp-on connection where
the impeller does its work; so, yes, I do lube that also with
pool lube.
Thanks for the recommendation (and vocabulary). :)
tra...@optonline.net
May 13, 2013, 11:16:32 AM5/13/13
to
On May 13, 11:02 am, Oren <O...@127.0.0.1> wrote:
> On Mon, 13 May 2013 02:56:20 +0000 (UTC), Danny D <Dan...@example.com>
> wrote:
>
> >On Sun, 12 May 2013 11:35:20 -0700, Oren wrote:
>
> >> They look fine to me. Dry fit the pipes back to the pumps...
>
> >Do you think I should lubricate the union with pool lube?
> >http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/12918714/img/12918714.jpg
>
> Just lube the O-ring. If fact, the O-rings on the strainer and volute
> should be lubed when you put them back together.
>
> (my new pump filter O-ring does not require any lube. The lube is
> impregnated into the rubber)
>
> >> Clean that PVC insert of glue (bottom right) before you glue it in
>
> >Following the huckleberry trail, I certainly took your advice to heart!
>
> >I bought 1" wide 120 grit aluminum oxide sanding cloth:
> >http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/12918727/img/12918727.jpg
>
> >I took pains to keep the results as perfectly round as possible:
> >http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12918728/img/12918728.jpg
>
> +1
>
> >Even so, I'm a bit worried because the 2.5" coupling is a tad too large:
> >http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/12918726/img/12918726.jpg
>
I dont't know what that measurement is supposed to show.
> On Mon, 13 May 2013 02:56:20 +0000 (UTC), Danny D <Dan...@example.com>
> wrote:
>
> >On Sun, 12 May 2013 11:35:20 -0700, Oren wrote:
>
> >> They look fine to me. Dry fit the pipes back to the pumps...
>
> >Do you think I should lubricate the union with pool lube?
> >http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/12918714/img/12918714.jpg
>
> Just lube the O-ring. If fact, the O-rings on the strainer and volute
> should be lubed when you put them back together.
>
> (my new pump filter O-ring does not require any lube. The lube is
> impregnated into the rubber)
>
> >> Clean that PVC insert of glue (bottom right) before you glue it in
>
> >Following the huckleberry trail, I certainly took your advice to heart!
>
> >I bought 1" wide 120 grit aluminum oxide sanding cloth:
> >http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/12918727/img/12918727.jpg
>
> >I took pains to keep the results as perfectly round as possible:
> >http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12918728/img/12918728.jpg
>
> +1
>
> >Even so, I'm a bit worried because the 2.5" coupling is a tad too large:
> >http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/12918726/img/12918726.jpg
>
If the point is that it's not showing 2.5", it's not supposed to.
The 2.5" is the inside diameter of the PIPE that the fitting
mates with. It's not the inside diameter of the fitting which
is going to be a lot larger. The real question is if it fits
snuggly when it's put on, which I hope it does.
> Why you cut so close to the Jandy valve ... I had said before to cut
> close to the pump and keep some pipe for a regular fitting there.
> .
>
OVER the jandy valve. He doesn't want any pipe left outside
the valve. It was either go over it, or get the special tool to
bore out the pipe already glued inside the valve.
> >But, I had called Jandy & they said simply to use a lot of glue!
Jandy valve is designed to work with 2.5" fittings, then a 2.5"
fitting should fit over it just like any PVC pipe connection.
If it doesn't and there is a lot of play, then glue isn't the
answer. You might get away with it, but that joint will not
be nearly as strong as it's supposed to be.
Oren
May 13, 2013, 11:17:03 AM5/13/13
to
the stucco color on the house. Same for the pipes on the roof.
Equipment on the ground in a well shaded area most of the day.
I've read that any latex paint can be used to prevent UV damage.
I'd get a spray can for plastics, like Krylon.
Danny D.
May 13, 2013, 11:17:50 AM5/13/13
to
On Mon, 13 May 2013 08:02:08 -0700, Oren wrote:
> Why you cut so close to the Jandy valve ... I had said before to cut
> close to the pump and keep some pipe for a regular fitting there.
There was no 'pipe'.
> close to the pump and keep some pipe for a regular fitting there.
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/12767439/img/12767439.jpg
On the filter Jandy valve, what *looked* like a pipe was really
a whole bunch of couplings inserted butt-to-butt with the actual
two-inch pipe hiding inside.
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/12771692/img/12771692.jpg
On the cleaner Jandy valve, it was just butt-to-butt elbows.
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/12814636/img/12814636.jpg
I would have *loved* to have some 2-inch pipe to simply connect
a fitting to - but - there were no "pipes" to be found there!
That was the entire problem, in the first place, which had
prevented a simple repair, over the years (by me or the previous
owner).
Oren
May 13, 2013, 11:23:05 AM5/13/13
to
On Mon, 13 May 2013 13:53:44 +0000 (UTC), Danny D <Dan...@example.com>
wrote:
<http://www.krylon.com/products/fusion_for_plastic/>
wrote:
Danny D.
May 13, 2013, 11:24:35 AM5/13/13
to
On Mon, 13 May 2013 08:02:08 -0700, Oren wrote:
> One coupling would have avoided using two pieces,
> adding a place for potential leaks.
Just to clarify, I had *wanted* a single coupling:
> adding a place for potential leaks.
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/12799991/img/12799991.png
But I was leery of sizing off the Internet; so I tried every
plumbing supply and irrigation supply that I knew of.
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/12799954/img/12799954.png
None had a single 2.5-inch-to-2-inch coupling; but the
irrigation places had the two separate parts.
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/12918726/img/12918726.jpg
Those two pieces were my only option locally available. :(
Note: Had I a 2" NPT die, I could have re-threaded though:
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/12803884/img/12803884.jpg
Danny D.
May 13, 2013, 11:41:20 AM5/13/13
to
On Mon, 13 May 2013 08:16:32 -0700, tra...@optonline.net wrote:
> I don't see why there should be a lot of play in this. If that Jandy
> valve is designed to work with 2.5" fittings, then a 2.5"
> fitting should fit over it just like any PVC pipe connection.
I don't know if I have the vocabulary (that Oren has) of describing
> I don't see why there should be a lot of play in this. If that Jandy
> valve is designed to work with 2.5" fittings, then a 2.5"
> fitting should fit over it just like any PVC pipe connection.
things ... but I'd say the "play" was within reason. It was tight,
but not as tight as when I place a brand new PVC coupling over a
similarly brand new PVC pipe.
When I connect the brand new equipment (for sizing, for example),
I always have a hard time pulling them apart ... they're that tight.
On the other hand, this 2.5" coupling goes on "snug"; but can easily
be pulled back off without much force.
So, it's "snug" but nowhere near as snug as putting a brand new
PVC coupling onto a brand new PVC pipe.
Since that joint is the critical joint, I'll be crossing my fingers
because, if that fails, the only other option (other than draining
the pool) is to bore out the Jandy valves.
Oren
May 13, 2013, 12:35:27 PM5/13/13
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On Mon, 13 May 2013 15:10:48 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
<Dan...@is.invalid> wrote:
>On Mon, 13 May 2013 08:02:08 -0700, Oren wrote:
>
>> the O-rings on the strainer and volute
>> should be lubed when you put them back together.
>
>Strainer? Volute?
>
>Googling ...
>Volute: noun, A spiral scroll, Forming a spiral curve or curves
>
>So I assume the strainer is the pool pump basket, which has an
>o-ring at the top under the cover, which I do lube with the
>pool lube.
>
Yes and so should the filter have a giant O-ring.
<Dan...@is.invalid> wrote:
>On Mon, 13 May 2013 08:02:08 -0700, Oren wrote:
>
>> the O-rings on the strainer and volute
>> should be lubed when you put them back together.
>
>Strainer? Volute?
>
>Googling ...
>Volute: noun, A spiral scroll, Forming a spiral curve or curves
>
>So I assume the strainer is the pool pump basket, which has an
>o-ring at the top under the cover, which I do lube with the
>pool lube.
>
>And, the volute is most likely the clamp-on connection where
>the impeller does its work; so, yes, I do lube that also with
>pool lube.
>
>Thanks for the recommendation (and vocabulary). :)
Oren
May 13, 2013, 1:04:30 PM5/13/13
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pipe out. Then I mentioned the inserts and fittings for over the
elbows.
In your case, I would have done the same thing.
The builder did you no favors.
Oren
May 13, 2013, 1:12:16 PM5/13/13
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On Mon, 13 May 2013 15:24:35 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
<Dan...@is.invalid> wrote:
>On Mon, 13 May 2013 08:02:08 -0700, Oren wrote:
>
>> One coupling would have avoided using two pieces,
>> adding a place for potential leaks.
>
>Just to clarify, I had *wanted* a single coupling:
I understand.
<Dan...@is.invalid> wrote:
>On Mon, 13 May 2013 08:02:08 -0700, Oren wrote:
>
>> One coupling would have avoided using two pieces,
>> adding a place for potential leaks.
>
>Just to clarify, I had *wanted* a single coupling:
Ya done good.
Oren
May 13, 2013, 2:04:19 PM5/13/13
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On Mon, 13 May 2013 15:41:20 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
<Dan...@is.invalid> wrote:
>Since that joint is the critical joint, I'll be crossing my fingers
>because, if that fails, the only other option (other than draining
>the pool) is to bore out the Jandy valves.
Relax. I was skeptical about an over the elbow fitting method. My
<Dan...@is.invalid> wrote:
>Since that joint is the critical joint, I'll be crossing my fingers
>because, if that fails, the only other option (other than draining
>the pool) is to bore out the Jandy valves.
solar has never leaked, I approved the method :-\
Danny D
May 13, 2013, 2:19:07 PM5/13/13
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On Mon, 13 May 2013 10:04:30 -0700, Oren wrote:
> I concede. I followed the thread about the "tool" to cut the SCH 200
> pipe out. Then I mentioned the inserts and fittings for over the
> elbows.
If it's any consolation, I followed your huckleberry trail almost
> I concede. I followed the thread about the "tool" to cut the SCH 200
> pipe out. Then I mentioned the inserts and fittings for over the
> elbows.
exactly - only turning away when the path petered out completely.
In fact, I *did* originally cut the so-called "pipe" very much
closer to the pump, *exactly* as you had advised:
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/12843170/img/12843170.jpg
The deviation from your suggested path was determined because
a big boulder blocked the path to huckleberry nirvana, which
in this case, was because there was no 2-inch pipe to be had:
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/12843179/img/12843179.jpg
This lack of 2-inch pipe necessitated switching to plan B:
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/12843185/img/12843185.jpg
Danny D
May 13, 2013, 2:37:48 PM5/13/13
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On Mon, 13 May 2013 09:35:27 -0700, Oren wrote:
> Yes and so should the filter have a giant O-ring.
It's hula-hoop humongous!
> Yes and so should the filter have a giant O-ring.
Oren
May 14, 2013, 3:31:33 PM5/14/13
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On Mon, 13 May 2013 18:19:07 +0000 (UTC), Danny D <Dan...@example.com>
wrote:
>On Mon, 13 May 2013 10:04:30 -0700, Oren wrote:
>
>> I concede. I followed the thread about the "tool" to cut the SCH 200
>> pipe out. Then I mentioned the inserts and fittings for over the
>> elbows.
>
>If it's any consolation, I followed your huckleberry trail almost
>exactly - only turning away when the path petered out completely.
>
I'm inconsolable!
wrote:
>On Mon, 13 May 2013 10:04:30 -0700, Oren wrote:
>
>> I concede. I followed the thread about the "tool" to cut the SCH 200
>> pipe out. Then I mentioned the inserts and fittings for over the
>> elbows.
>
>If it's any consolation, I followed your huckleberry trail almost
>exactly - only turning away when the path petered out completely.
>
Danny D
May 14, 2013, 4:54:52 PM5/14/13
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On Tue, 14 May 2013 12:31:33 -0700, Oren wrote:
> I'm inconsolable!
:)
> I'm inconsolable!
:)
micky
May 15, 2013, 6:31:12 PM5/15/13
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On Mon, 13 May 2013 12:20:51 +0000 (UTC), Danny D <Dan...@example.com>
wrote:
Hardware stores, maybe including HD used to sell mostly black plastic
pipe, and no white plastic pipe, but white came in later and I guess
it's better in some way, because that is all HD has now. (Maybe grey
pipe too but that's the flexible stuff I havent' used.) To get black
recently (so it would mach my basement sink drain and my sump pump
drain) I had to go to a plumbing supply store.
wrote:
pipe, and no white plastic pipe, but white came in later and I guess
it's better in some way, because that is all HD has now. (Maybe grey
pipe too but that's the flexible stuff I havent' used.) To get black
recently (so it would mach my basement sink drain and my sump pump
drain) I had to go to a plumbing supply store.
micky
May 15, 2013, 6:32:44 PM5/15/13
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On Mon, 13 May 2013 13:53:44 +0000 (UTC), Danny D <Dan...@example.com>
wrote:
>On Mon, 13 May 2013 06:37:41 -0700, tra...@optonline.net wrote:
>
>> It seems to me a curious thing that they paint them black.
>
>You have an interesting point there, in that it's the 'paint' and
>not the 'color' of that paint that protects PVC from UV radiation.
>
>Dunno why mine are black ... but ... since they are ... I'm going
>to get out my license to prove I'm over 18 and have them unlock
I thought the minimum age for paint was 35.
wrote:
>On Mon, 13 May 2013 06:37:41 -0700, tra...@optonline.net wrote:
>
>> It seems to me a curious thing that they paint them black.
>
>You have an interesting point there, in that it's the 'paint' and
>not the 'color' of that paint that protects PVC from UV radiation.
>
>Dunno why mine are black ... but ... since they are ... I'm going
>to get out my license to prove I'm over 18 and have them unlock
micky
May 15, 2013, 6:46:39 PM5/15/13
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On Mon, 13 May 2013 14:08:19 +0000 (UTC), Danny D <Dan...@example.com>
wrote:
>I had bought two unions at the time, so I left the unused union
>outside in a plastic bucket. Over time, that unused union yellowed.
>
>So, the good news is that the unions are 'matched' in time and batch;
>the bad news is that one sat outside in the hot sun for a year.
>
>I'll let you know if it leaks; but if it does, it will be easy to
>replace, since the hard part was always the inlet side, and not
>the outlet side.
> http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/12921662/img/12921662.jpg
>
>Note: If it wasn't easy to replace, you can rest assured I would
>have used all new equipment!
Is this just a swimming pool or is it something bigger?
wrote:
>I had bought two unions at the time, so I left the unused union
>outside in a plastic bucket. Over time, that unused union yellowed.
>
>So, the good news is that the unions are 'matched' in time and batch;
>the bad news is that one sat outside in the hot sun for a year.
>
>I'll let you know if it leaks; but if it does, it will be easy to
>replace, since the hard part was always the inlet side, and not
>the outlet side.
> http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/12921662/img/12921662.jpg
>
>Note: If it wasn't easy to replace, you can rest assured I would
>have used all new equipment!
Danny D
May 15, 2013, 8:54:32 PM5/15/13
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On Wed, 15 May 2013 18:46:39 -0400, micky wrote:
> Is this just a swimming pool or is it something bigger?
It's a big swimming pool ...
> Is this just a swimming pool or is it something bigger?
star...@metrocast.net
Mar 18, 2016, 7:35:31 AM3/18/16
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On Sunday, May 12, 2013 at 1:05:29 PM UTC-4, Danny D wrote:
> I'm a big believer in doing things the right way, or, at least knowing
> what the right way is (so that the next time you do it the right way).
>
> So I ask what seems like a very basic question:
> Q: Does it matter which direction I put these 2" PVC unions on?
> http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/12915207/img/12915207.jpg
you say your one to do things correctly, I've always gone with the flow with the nut first. Also if you want to do things right use sch80 not 40 it cracks after time.....
> I'm a big believer in doing things the right way, or, at least knowing
> what the right way is (so that the next time you do it the right way).
>
> So I ask what seems like a very basic question:
> Q: Does it matter which direction I put these 2" PVC unions on?
> http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/12915207/img/12915207.jpg
star...@metrocast.net
Mar 18, 2016, 7:36:00 AM3/18/16
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philo
Mar 18, 2016, 9:23:10 AM3/18/16
to
On 03/18/2016 06:35 AM, star...@metrocast.net wrote:
> On Sunday, May 12, 2013 at 1:05:29 PM UTC-4, Danny D wrote:
>>
LOOK AT THE DATE!
> On Sunday, May 12, 2013 at 1:05:29 PM UTC-4, Danny D wrote:
>>
Gordon Shumway
Mar 18, 2016, 1:34:17 PM3/18/16
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You have clearly failed to know the difference between "your" and "you're."
And as Philo said, "LOOK AT THE DATE!"
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