How Do I remove Headless 1/4" lag Bolts from Concrete?
Tom
steps have rusted away leaving headless 1/4" lag bolts imbedded in the
concrete. How do I remove whats left of the bolts? I attempted to drill
them out using an 1/8" drill bit but it could get started.
How can i remove the bolts? Some of the bolts are not broken off even with
the concrete some of them are headless and bent slightly to one side.
Tom
charlie
"Tom" <whi...@earthlink.com> wrote in message news:g7qhnu$pnv$1...@aioe.org...
cut a slot in them with a dremel and use a screwdriver?
using a left handed drill bit could back them out enough to get a pair of
vice grips on them
Nate Nagel
Do you need to remove them for some purpose, or are you just concerned
with the busted stubs sticking up? If the latter, just grind them down
flush with a 4" angle grinder and let it go. Patch and paint as necessary.
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
Tom
"Nate Nagel" <njn...@roosters.net> wrote in message
news:g7qit...@news3.newsguy.com...
> Do you need to remove them for some purpose, or are you just concerned
> with the busted stubs sticking up? If the latter, just grind them down
> flush with a 4" angle grinder and let it go. Patch and paint as
> necessary.
>
I need to remove the lags to put new flanges/lag bolts in for the new
railing.
Tom
"charlie" <charlie...@nospam.stratus.com> wrote in message
news:g7qir7$tot$1...@aioe.org...
> cut a slot in them with a dremel and use a screwdriver?
>
> using a left handed drill bit could back them out enough to get a pair of
> vice grips on them
I could try that but the appear to be quite deteriorated .
AZ Nomad
I once had to remove anchors (nails driven in with an explosive charge)
from concrete and simply used a circular saw (w/ eye protection).
Steve Barker DLT
s
"Tom" <whi...@earthlink.com> wrote in message news:g7qhnu$pnv$1...@aioe.org...
Steve Barker DLT
off flush.
s
"Tom" <whi...@earthlink.com> wrote in message news:g7qjit$18t$1...@aioe.org...
Edwin Pawlowski
"Tom" <whi...@earthlink.com> wrote in message news:g7qhnu$pnv$1...@aioe.org...
Depends on how well they are in there. You can use an "easy out". available
at any decent hardwqare store. You drill a pilot hole, insert the easy out
and with a wrench try to turn the lag out. Once started it can come easy,
but if well stuck in the concrete it may be impossible.
>
Tom
"Steve Barker DLT" <railph...@always.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:ndOdnVQ14NrlRj3V...@giganews.com...
> Take a grinder and grind them down flush. Done.
I fonly that would solve the problem. I've got to install flanges, same
dimensions, over top the place where the original s stood.
Edwin Pawlowski
"Tom" <whi...@earthlink.com> wrote in message news:g7qrhj$ur5$1...@aioe.org...
It may solve some of the problem. Can you turn the flange 90 degrees and use
new holes? Or drill new holes in the flange at new locations?
mm
wrote:
Vice-grip brand vice-grips, put on tight or very tight, then hit with
a hammer in the direction to unscrew the bolts. Especially the ones
that are bent will be able to be turned.
>
Smitty Two
No you don't. That's just what you originally planned to do. Making a
new plan is going to be a hell of a lot easier than removing the old
bolts.
John Grabowski
"Tom" <whi...@earthlink.com> wrote in message news:g7qhnu$pnv$1...@aioe.org...
I would try drilling with a good high speed drill bit. It may be
sacrificial, but use one at least the same dimension as the bolts or maybe
start with something bigger then go smaller. Use a hammer and a pin punch
to get a flat surface for the drill bit to sit on.
Blattus Slafaly
--
Blattus Slafaly ? 3 :) 7/8
hal...@aol.com
wrote:
the old holes will be too detoriated by the rusty bolts expanding to
re use......
so grid off old bolts add flange and start over
Stormin Mormon
paint over may be a lot easier than gettting the old lags out. Hammer drill
is useful for making holes in concrete.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Tom" <whi...@earthlink.com> wrote in message news:g7qjmd$1en$1...@aioe.org...
Stormin Mormon
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Tom" <whi...@earthlink.com> wrote in message news:g7qrhj$ur5$1...@aioe.org...
Stormin Mormon
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Smitty Two" <prest...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:prestwhich-D4A00...@news.west.cox.net...
terry
> "Tom" <whi...@earthlink.com> wrote in messagenews:g7qhnu$pnv$1...@aioe.org...
Yes was going to say; grind the old ones flat, mark a significant
punch hole to get drill started. Use good drill bits same size as
bolts and drill carfully, you may break off the drill bit which could
give you another problem!
OR: Grind flat, move new railing half to one inch over and drill new
holes in concrete?
Do the new railings have to have identical mounting points as the old?
Why?
Caesar Romano
<jgra...@optonline.net> wrote Re Re: How Do I remove Headless 1/4"
lag Bolts from Concrete?:
And use plenty of oil at the tip of the drill bit.
Smitty Two
Caesar Romano <Sp...@uce.gov> wrote:
If you're going to drill them, start with something smaller. Go in there
with an 1/8" at fairly high RPM and use some pressure on it. Then open
it up with the 1/4" at a slower RPM. If you can hold it steady, even
start with a 1/16.
tn...@mucks.net
wrote:
>The 1/4" lag bolts for the railing supports in the front concrete porch
The lag bolts are screwed into concrete? This doesn't make sense.
Are they actually bolts screwed into anchors that are embedded into
the concrete?
tn...@mucks.net
>If you're going to drill them, start with something smaller. Go in there
>with an 1/8" at fairly high RPM and use some pressure on it. Then open
>it up with the 1/4" at a slower RPM. If you can hold it steady, even
>start with a 1/16.
You have the right idea but if you are going to remove something as
small as 1/4 inch then you need more accuracy especially if you have
multiple bolts.
You need a magnifying glass and pin punch.
You need a drill as small as 1/32 inch
You need a very high speed stationary drill.
You use the small drill for a perfectly centered pilot.
Drill 1/8 inch deep. Then step up to the largest easy out
size for a 1/4 inch bolt. Drill all the way through if possible.
If the easy out doesn't work then keep drilling larger until
one of two things happen.
1. The hole becomes clean enough that you can chase it with a tap.
2. The hole has to become oversize so that you can install the
appropriate insert to accept a 1/4 inch bolt
mkir...@rochester.rr.com
> I fonly that would solve the problem. I've got to install flanges, same
> dimensions, over top the place where the original s stood.
No, you don't. Get that out of your head right now.
Even if you get the bolts out, new bolts will not grab in the old
holes, even with new anchors.
mkir...@rochester.rr.com
> The lag bolts are screwed into concrete? This doesn't make sense.
> Are they actually bolts screwed into anchors that are embedded into
> the concrete?
They are likely driven into expanding aluminum anchors that were
driven into holes drilled in the concrete. The galvanic reaction
between the steel lag bolts and the aluminum anchors has fused them
together permanently. They will not be coming out of there without a
fight, and then the holes will not be usable afterward.
Joe
> The 1/4" lag bolts for the railing supports in the front concrete porch
> steps have rusted away leaving headless 1/4" lag bolts imbedded in the
> concrete. How do I remove whats left of the bolts? I attempted to drill
> them out using an 1/8" drill bit but it could get started.
>
> How can i remove the bolts? Some of the bolts are not broken off even with
> the concrete some of them are headless and bent slightly to one side.
>
> Tom
Why go through all the agony suggested in these replies? Buy a Harbor
Freight 3200 diamond hole saw and cut out the rusted bolts complete
with a neat core of concrete. Then get some stainless bolts, pop them
in the holes with some slow cure filled epoxy and replace your railing
exactly where you want it. The depth of cut on the hole saw may
require some chisel work to get you to the depth you want, but i've
seen building maintenance guys do this easily on broken off toilet
bolts, floor mounted partitions and the like. You may get more depth
with a Milwaukee carbide hole saw, $15 or so. You should be able to
cut a neat hole in ten or fifteen minutes, my guess. The pros do it in
around five. Good luck.
Joe
Tekkie®
Geez!! Somebody said something not politically correct! Go to it Smitty. My
hero.
If they * HAVE* to be the same place the core drill them out and embed
something good with epoxy.
--
Tekkie - I approve this advertisement/statement/utterance.
Tekkie®
> 1. The hole becomes clean enough that you can chase it with a tap.
>
HMMM, novel idea in concrete...
hal...@aol.com
just be careful if the slab is in poor condition.
I had a steel railing rust, and replaced.
a couple years later my mom grabbed the railing in a wind storm, the
corners of the slab broke off, at the bolts.
my mom fell 10 feet but fortunately was ok....
you dont muck around with half ass fixes for key safety items.
one neighbor replaced her railing with a alunimum one, what a joke,
she slipped on ice and broke it off
Nate Nagel
Something good = stainless steel, if you ever want to remove them
without repeating this exercise. With anti-seize on the nuts.
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
SteveB
knowing which one they are exactly would help. Are they nail ins? Lead
shielded lags? Wedge anchors? It helps to know. Not a lot of concrete
fasteners can be removed once they're in. They're designed that way.
I was a steel erection contractor for nine years. I serviced 275 different
apartment properties. I ran into many many different situations. Some were
easiest to just put a different plate on there that would just cover up the
old stuff and look like new. Other times, chisel it down, burn or cut off
the stub, and use PourStone to get an acceptable looking plug.
You can only make so much ice cream out of so much horse manure. Sometimes,
you can't get there from here, and have to find a plausible alternative.
Very seldom do you get the old fastener out and get to put a new one in the
old hole.
Keep us posted, and link to some pics if possible. I use Flickr. It's easy
and free, and one picture is worth ten thousand words.
Steve
SteveB
"Tekkie®" <Tek...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:X6OdnU3927kMpj_V...@comcast.com...
Please send more info on tapping concrete. I'm sixty, and this is the first
I've heard about it.
Steve
tn...@mucks.net
wrote:
> posted for all of us...
>
>> 1. The hole becomes clean enough that you can chase it with a tap.
A screw is not screwed into concrete. HMMM, novel idea in concrete...
tn...@mucks.net
wrote:
>
>"TekkieŽ" <Tek...@comcast.net> wrote in message
Please let us know when was the last time you screwed something into
concrete? don't they use some sort of insert?
hal...@aol.com
> On Tue, 12 Aug 2008 22:30:42 -0800, "SteveB" <toquerville@zionvistas>
> wrote:
>
>
>
> >news:X6OdnU3927kMpj_V...@comcast.com...
> >> posted for all of us...
>
> >>> 1. The hole becomes clean enough that you can chase it with a tap.
>
> >> HMMM, novel idea in concrete...
> >> --
> >> Tekkie - I approve this advertisement/statement/utterance.
>
> >Please send more info on tapping concrete. �I'm sixty, and this is the first
> >I've heard about it.
>
> >Steve
>
> �Please let us know when was the last time you screwed something into
> concrete? don't they use some sort of insert?
tapcon, although they havent been around many years, certinally not
when this railing was first installed.
secondly i have never seen a tapcon rust, dont know what they are made
of?
SteveB
<tn...@mucks.net> wrote in message
news:r955a4594bdvubp6v...@4ax.com...
That would be yesterday. I used 1/2" Redheads in a 5/8" hole. 12 of them.
I do not recall threading any concrete, but merely drilling a hole.
I could be wrong.
SteveB
<tn...@mucks.net> wrote in message
news:b755a4t4du0q2v0rf...@4ax.com...
If you go to a concrete supply house, you will see lag bolts with super
coarse thread that are screwed into a pilot hole in concrete. Then there's
TapCons, and a dozen others.
Don't get out a lot, huh?
Steve
BobK207
> On Tue, 12 Aug 2008 22:30:42 -0800, "SteveB" <toquerville@zionvistas>
> wrote:
>
>
>
> >news:X6OdnU3927kMpj_V...@comcast.com...
> >> posted for all of us...
>
> >>> 1. The hole becomes clean enough that you can chase it with a tap.
>
> >> HMMM, novel idea in concrete...
> >> --
> >> Tekkie - I approve this advertisement/statement/utterance.
>
> >Please send more info on tapping concrete. I'm sixty, and this is the first
> >I've heard about it.
>
> >Steve
>
> Please let us know when was the last time you screwed something into
> concrete? don't they use some sort of insert?
>>>> Please let us know when was the last time you screwed something into concrete? <<<<
other than Tapcons or Simpson Titen bolts (supposedly removed &
reinsertable!?)
In sound concrete this could work in OP's app but I would use them.
I would use a small rotary hammer bit to surgically drill away some of
the concrete & remove the lags.
Then I'd embed SS threaded studs in epoxy Sika AnchorFix #1 (5 min) or
#3 (1 hr)
Other post about using core drill is a good idea......
I removed three 5/8" x 10" embedded hex bolts by coring around them
with a Hilti DCM 2.0 with a 2" x 18" core bit.
Then I used setting compound (PourStone) to embed post anchors.
cheers
Bob
DerbyDad03
> The 1/4" lag bolts for the railing supports in the front concrete porch
> steps have rusted away leaving headless 1/4" lag bolts imbedded in the
> concrete. How do I remove whats left of the bolts? I attempted to drill
> them out using an 1/8" drill bit but it could get started.
>
> How can i remove the bolts? Some of the bolts are not broken off even with
> the concrete some of them are headless and bent slightly to one side.
>
> Tom
I'm about to do what my neighbor did. Note: our front porches are
pretty low - one step from the walkway and then one step to the porch.
First, he removed the old wrought iron railing, ground down the stubs
and patched the holes.
Then he built a cedar framed railing with wrought-iron balusters. The
uprights are made of ~7 foot 4 x 4's which were sunk down to the frost
line *next* to the concrete porch. The upper and lower rails are 1 x 6
so the railing has some heft to it, as well as a surface to hold a
drink or package.
An added advantage is the six inches or so of width he gained since
the railings are off to the side.
A few plantings around the sides of the porch hide the 4x4's that run
up along side the porch.
It's a really nice look.
tn...@mucks.net
>tapcon, although they havent been around many years, certinally not
>when this railing was first installed.
Then why bring it up?
>secondly i have never seen a tapcon rust, dont know what they are made
>of?
Do you know........................Do you have.................Are you
aware of...........
Who cares?
tn...@mucks.net
>> Please let us know when was the last time you screwed something into
>> concrete? don't they use some sort of insert?
>
>That would be yesterday. I used 1/2" Redheads in a 5/8" hole. 12 of them.
>I do not recall threading any concrete, but merely drilling a hole.
>
>I could be wrong.
>
tn...@mucks.net
>If you go to a concrete supply house, you will see lag bolts with super
>coarse thread that are screwed into a pilot hole in concrete. Then there's
>TapCons, and a dozen others.
I don't think you are being honest here. Tapcons are not referenced as
being lag bolts. They are just a type of a fastener, and they are not
what the poster is referencing.
DerbyDad03
Where does he say that TapCons are lag bolts?
tn...@mucks.net
Excuse me. He said "you will see lag bolts with super
coarse thread that are screwed into a pilot hole in concrete"
I may be wrong but I have yet to see the term"Lag Bolt" used
for a no insert concrete fastener.
DerbyDad03
So you are agreeing with me that he never said TapCons are lag bolts,
right?
Just want to make sure we are on the same page.
tn...@mucks.net
>So you are agreeing with me that he never said TapCons are lag bolts,
>right?
>
>Just want to make sure we are on the same page.
>
being mis-used.
DerbyDad03
No argument there...
Tekkie®
> > The 1/4" lag bolts for the railing supports in the front concrete porch
> > steps have rusted away leaving headless 1/4" lag bolts imbedded in the
> > concrete. How do I remove whats left of the bolts? I attempted to drill
> > them out using an 1/8" drill bit but it could get started.
> >
> > How can i remove the bolts? Some of the bolts are not broken off even with
> > the concrete some of them are headless and bent slightly to one side.
> >
> > Tom
>
> I'm about to do what my neighbor did. Note: our front porches are
> pretty low - one step from the walkway and then one step to the porch.
>
Not remotely what the OP asked about. Your name isn't Tony Hung low is it?
DerbyDad03
re: Not remotely what the OP asked about.
Sure is.
When the OP was asked *why* he needed to remove the bolts from the
concrete, he replied:
"I need to remove the lags to put new flanges/lag bolts in for the new
railing."
Many others have suggested that there are ways to install the new
railing without removing the bolts, such as relocating the railing or
the new flanges.
My suggestion is just one more option for installing a new railing
without the need to remove the old bolts.