Whirlpool GSQ9300EQ0 washing machine needs gearcase oil seal.

David Farber

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Apr 19, 2015, 2:15:30 PM4/19/15

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I have a Whirlpool GSQ9300EQ0 washing machine. When I replaced a faulty
motor coupler, I found a small amount of gearcase oil leaking onto the
floor. I did some research and found these diagrams.
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/gearcase-parts-for-whirlpool-gsq9300eq0.html

In the gearcase parts blowup, the oil seal reference number is 21. That
represents part # 3043580. Is that a Whirlpool part number?

Another website shows it as # 334494.
http://www.partselect.com/PS334494-Whirlpool-285352-Oil-Seal-Kit-for-Gearcase-Input-Shaft.htm?SourceCode=5&SearchTerm=gsq9300e&ModelNum=gsq9300e
which seems to be an update to part # 285352.

I would like to know which part number(s) is correct and if the oil seal is
two pieces that fit together or one individual piece as shown here.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-285352-Whirlpool-Washer-Oil-Seal-/261457755362?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3ce018bce2 I
have not yet disassembled the machine again since installing the motor
coupler as it still operates ok.

Thanks for your reply.
--
David Farber
Los Osos, CA

bob haller

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Apr 19, 2015, 3:28:04 PM4/19/15

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the bushing or bearing the oil seal is on may be bad. the shaft moves around too much and leaks.

probably easier to add oil occasionally and shop for a new machine.

how old is your existing machine?

David Farber

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Apr 19, 2015, 10:23:10 PM4/19/15

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I looked up the serial number. It's from 1998. Even if I had to replace the
entire gearcase, it's still worth fixing.

David Farber

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Apr 20, 2015, 12:08:41 PM4/20/15

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I checked the Whirlpool website and found the part number there. It's
285352. I will check the bearing first to see what the situation is with the
shaft.

trader_4

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Apr 20, 2015, 1:03:58 PM4/20/15

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Since you're a bit unsure as to the seal, one part or two, this
might be a case where taking the old one out, going to a local
shop with it where you can compare it, etc would be worth it.
I'd at least find out how much a local parts supply wants.

Jerr...@spamblocked.com

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Apr 20, 2015, 11:55:00 PM4/20/15

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On Sun, 19 Apr 2015 11:13:45 -0700, "David Farber"
<farberbe...@aol.com> wrote:

>I would like to know which part number(s) is correct and if the oil seal is
>two pieces that fit together or one individual piece as shown here.
>h

This is the kind of question you should be asking a Whirlpool parts
dealer. I doubt anyone on this NG knows anymore than you. Look up a
local parts dealer and call them! Seals wear out from use, but it could
also mean a loose bearing. The parts dealer should also know the answer
to that.

Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney

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Apr 24, 2015, 10:01:42 PM4/24/15

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"David Farber" <farberbe...@aol.com> wrote in message news:mh0ra3$n5u$1...@dont-email.me...

Don't know about brands or models, but if you decide to buy a new one, do a lot of checking out first. I had a 1994 and worked great for 10 years or so. Then transmission started leaking. Would have cost $200-300 total to fix it. Decided buy a new model - GE I think, not sure. "Water saving" POS. Supposed to be a 'high capacity' model. I feel sorry for people with the standard model - this one does not get clothes clean - if you fill it half way the top doesn't even get wet. I always set it on 'large' even if just washing 3-4 items to be sure it cleans and rinses.

Also check your drain size. If it's an older house, the drain probably won't handle the flowrate. Older washers drained out a lot slower. This one pumps like it's putting out a fire, fills the standpipe up quickly, senses water backing up and slams the water off. Then a few seconds later, slams the water wide open and repeats this 3-4 times for each drain cycle. Those pressure shocks are not doing any good for cold water system.

I ended up having to fasten the drain hose solid to the house pipe to keep it from splashing out. Not a good idea to do this, but part of my plan is to break something. First thing that brake and it's out on the street.

To sum it up..... keep the old machines running as long as you can.

David Farber

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May 14, 2015, 5:06:54 PM5/14/15

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I did disassemble it to remove the old seal but that presented another
problem which I described here.
http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/washer-repair/560344-removing-installing-gearcase-shaft-seal.html

Once I was able to remove the old seal, I could see which of the two parts
in the kit was the correct fit for my specific gearcase. This link,
http://www.davesrepair.com/drsn/JanFeb08bi.htm showed the technique used to
remove the seal:

"If replacing the input shaft seal, just run a sheet metal or self-drilling
screw into its edge at 2:00 or 7:00 to remove it, and press the new one in
with a 3/4'' socket."

Scroll all the way down the page. The last photo is the relevant one.

Thanks for your replies.

fafafooy

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Mar 31, 2016, 6:44:05 PM3/31/16

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replying to David Farber, fafafooy wrote:
You don't have to worry about a few drops of oil. The seal is not something
that anyone replaces. Worse case scenario you could add a little oil to the
gearbox. By the time it had any affect losing a little oil you'd be too old
to want to crawl under it. Run it til it breaks.

--
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