Question is this: how long should it be before the new unit delivers
water to the ice maker?
After 13 hours (checked before I went to work) the ice maker still had
no water. Is the 24 hour period mentioned in the installation manual
for it start producing ice that hits the ice bucket or when it should
first state getting water to make ice?
Usually a month
Aaaahhhh, did you turn the water back on?
> After 13 hours (checked before I went to work) the ice maker still had
> no water. Is the 24 hour period mentioned in the installation manual
> for it start producing ice that hits the ice bucket or when it should
> first state getting water to make ice?
Did you lower the arm to the icemaking position?
You would think that, but now always true. I replaced mine and it did not
work. I was PO'd and it was getting late. I went to bed and the next
morning I found that the ice fairly delivered a bunch. No idea why, but it
took about 12 hours for it to start functioning.
> Did you lower the arm to the icemaking position?
Yes, of course.
To the guy that asked if I turned the water on: yes it is on.
Thanks for the info. I'm hoping to find ice when I get home. If not,
next step will be to replace the water valve (one came with the kit)
and water line. I'm trying to avoid fiddling with the water line
I appreciate the advice but if the water valve was bad shouldn't I
still get a voltage reading to it on the module's test holes N and V
during the fill cycle? It's now been 24 hours with no ice so I ran the
new unit through a cycle and it is also not reading any voltage on N
and V during the fill cycle. I think you may be correct about the
water valve since the new module isn't getting water but don't
understand why I'm not getting a voltage reading during the fill cycle.
I sure hope that the original solenoid valve didn't fail in a shorted
coil mode and take out some component like a triac in both the old and
the new icemakers.
I don't know that much about present day icemakers, 'cause the one in
our old GE fridge uses mechanical contacts on the motor drive to switch
and time the voltage to the valve. I've had to clean up those contacts
once or twice already when they got grotty and wouldn't conduct when
I'm just suspecting that since everything else in appliances has gone
electronic, maybe your icemaker is made that way too.
Can you disconnect the valve's coil leads and make a measurement of it's
resistance, comparing that to the unused new valve's coil? That might
tell you something.
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
"Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength."
Some ice makers do double duty as the timer for the defrost cycle and run on
a long schedual instead of on demand. Usually there is a hole to advance
the clock if it is this style and if you turn the knob inside you can cycle
through the paces. In any case it may have filled already and you are just
waiting for it to eject the ice. have you looked in the tray. If not maybe
you need to replace the solenoid as well.
If a load (the solenoid) is a dead short, you will read no voltage across it
even if the source (module) is still outputting a signal.
Unplug the solenoid. measure the voltage on the wire from the module during
the fill cycle. If it is 0V all the time, the new module is defective or
improperly installed. If you get voltage when you expect it diring the fill
cycle, then the module is probably OK
Measure the resistance of the solenoid. If it is open or shorted then it is
bad. Not sure what you should get but 100 to 2000 ohms is reasonable.
Connect a light bulb to in place of the solenoid, it should go on during the
The solenoid may just be plugged with crud or it may be electrically failed.
Electrically speaking see advice above. Mechanically speaking, it would
appear to be electrically functional but still no water gets through. You
should be able to hear the solenoid click when it opens.
Anyway, it is a cheaper part than the module and probably easier to replace
than to debug it or repair it (clean out any crud). Just get a new one,
should be a 15min job if the tubing cooperates.
I cheated a little connected solenoid valve to ole power cord, and
plugged it in looked for water in tray, it does not take long to fill.
turn valve off to solenoid valve, unscrew supply line, have someone
hold it in bucket while valve is turned on as test, this test assures
water is available
I took PipeDown's advice and ran the resistance and voltage tests.
The resistance on the exising water inlet valve (aka, solenoid) was
around 380 ohms. The new one that came with the ice maker kit (model #
ECKMF94) was around 220 ohms. I also cycled the ice maker and tested
the voltage at the solenoid to see if it was getting any volts and it
wasn't (or at least my voltmeter didn't read any...I was jury rigging
the test probes and contact may not have been all that good). I then
decided that since I had a new water inlet valve I might as well
install it and see what happened. I also wanted to check if the water
line was flowing properly. I had resisted this step as I'd have to
undo the compression nut and didn't want the hassle of it not working
after I reconnected. Anyways, the water flow thru the supply line was
good so that ruled that out as the culprit. I then proceeded to
connect the new inlet valve, and hooked up the water supply line.
Luckily, the compression nut was plastic, somewhat flexible and not
overtightened when I hooked the line up 11 years ago so I had no
problems with leaks after I reconnected it to the new inlet valve (I
will keep a close eye on it for a few days to make sure it isn't
leaking just in case).
Fingers crossed I plugged the fridge in and immediately noticed the ice
maker was cycling. As it got to the water valve part of the cycle it
didn't work and I felt defeated and frustrated...I was about to call it
a night when I heard the water valve click on and water, precious
water, filled the ice maker. I noticed the inlet valve cycled at about
1 PM on the dial and not around 10 - 11 AM as indicated here:
Once again, thanks everyone for the helpful posts. My advice, for $50
(even less...around $40 on ebay), if your Whirlpool ice maker bites the
dust, replace the entire works (inlet valve and ice maker unit) as
testing didn't seem to reveal the real problem here.
I am a office machine service tech for a living, this discussion made
me realize that although I use meters and other test equiptement I
prefer to swap parts when possible since its more reliable........