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gas fireplace won't start-up - pilot is lit
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fun...@gmail.com
Dec 24, 2008, 7:34:23 PM12/24/08
to
Hello all -
first post on this forum, so please excuse any newbie errors...
I have a gas fireplace at home that I haven't used in a couple of
years. I had turned the pilot off after I used it last. I tried to
start it back up yesterday, and the pilot started right up. I have a
wall switch that controls the gas flow and turns the fireplace on.
When I try to flip the switch to turn the fireplace on, it does
nothing 9 times out of 10. Occassionally the flames will come and
stay lit for a couple of minutes before going out again, and then
nothing. I don't smell any gas when the fireplace switch is on but
the flame isn't present. Not sure where to look to try and debug this
issue... any helpful pointers would be greatly appreciated!
Merry Christmas!
BobK207
Dec 24, 2008, 7:48:52 PM12/24/08
to
Funny thing......I just went through a very similar process with our
gas log set today.
I tried to light the pilot & it would light but not stay lit
So.... I turned off everything.....the electrical switch on the log
set (my set doens't have a wall switch), the manual valve on the log
set to "off" postion and the recessed gas cock on the side of the
fireplace.
I did the start up process....open gas cock, turn manual valve to
"pilot" & depress, light pilot and hold knob in for ~2 minutes, turn
manual valve to "on".
Pliot stayed lit......flipped electrical switch to "on" and the log
set fired up & has stayed burning for a few hours so far.
I have no idea why the pilot wouldn't stay lit but turning everything
off seems to have fixed it. ????
Give the "total shutdown and wait a few minutes before a re-start"
a try.
cheers
Bob
ransley
Dec 24, 2008, 9:38:56 PM12/24/08
to
Does it have a thermocouple on the pilot a maybe 2" round metal piece
with a wire on it going to a gas valve, that might be bad I used a
propane torch to heat one up once, its probably a standard item even
some place like Sears might have for cheap. But I am guessing and dont
know if what I recomend is safe.
Tom Lachance
Dec 25, 2008, 7:49:09 AM12/25/08
to
1. Direct vent or natural vent
2. Free standing, zero clearance or masonry insert
3. Vented or unvented gas log.
4. ODS or thermocouple/thermopile
The above combinations can be used in a number of ways.
Thermocouple/thermopile assemblies have 2 separate circuits powered by
the their respective devices.
Thermocouple = 20 millivolts (+/-)
Thermopile = 750 millivolts (+/-)
If the pilot lights and stays lit, the problem isn't with the pilot circuit.
If the main burner doesn't light, the problem is in the main burner circuit.
Some units have more than 1 switch controlling them.
The supplied switches on the units are notoriously unreliable.
The gas valve generally has connections for the main burner labeled TH,
TP, and TH/TP. The main burner is operated by a switch that makes a
circuit between the TH and TH/TP connections.
Is there a remote installed on the fireplace? If so, there is usually a
switch on it labeled on/remote/ off. If you move the switch to on and
the main burner lights, check the batteries in both the remote and the
receiver. If it doesn't light, check the other switches/controls
connected to the above connections.
The above procedure assumes the control valve is in the "ON" position
and not in "PILOT".
Chris
Dec 25, 2008, 4:26:44 PM12/25/08
to
hole and the symptoms you describe happen.
I had two phone calls this week from people with gas fire places and heaters and
both had the same problem. DIRT!!!
Chris
fun...@gmail.com
Jan 3, 2009, 7:33:59 PM1/3/09
to
On Dec 25 2008, 7:49 am, Tom Lachance <tlacha...@metrocast.net> wrote:> and not in "PILOT".- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Happy new year to all!
I checked the fireplace and couldn't figure out the make - the card
that came with it says XDVR-38RMN, but I couldn't find anything based
on that description in my Google search. I did see a circuit diagram
that mentions Thermopile. It's a masonry insert.
The pilot does light easily and stays lit, so as you suggested, that's
not where the issue is. I did clean everything out and then tried to
get the fireplace going again to no avail... There is NO remote with
the fireplace - just the wall switch. I checked all the circuit
breakers and saw no issue there. When I flip the wall switch, nothing
happens. I don't smell gas when I flip the switch... Would a bad
thermopile result in these symptoms?
Appreciate any additional pointers you may be able to offer.
Thanks!
Tom Lachance
Jan 4, 2009, 6:21:33 AM1/4/09
to
position. Check around the gas valve area for an "off/on" rocker switch.
If found, place it in the ON position. If the burner lights, the problem
is in the wiring to the wall switch.
There wouldn't be any issue with circuit breakers. The wall switch
connects only to the gas valve. If you have a VOM or a continuity
tester, disconnect the wires
John Galbreath Jr.
Jan 4, 2009, 5:25:42 PM1/4/09
to
Go to the gas valve, look for three terminals. One will be marked TH, one
TH-TP, and one TP. When the TH and the TH-TP are connected, the fire lights
if the gas valve is in the on position and you have a pilot. There is no
power here, so you can jump with a paper clip. But when you do *** THE FIRE
WILL COME ON ***, so be careful and be prepared. If it does light, then the
problem is in your wiring to the wall switch. If is does not come on, the
problem is in the gas valve. The wiring is the likely culprit.
TH-TP, and one TP. When the TH and the TH-TP are connected, the fire lights
if the gas valve is in the on position and you have a pilot. There is no
power here, so you can jump with a paper clip. But when you do *** THE FIRE
WILL COME ON ***, so be careful and be prepared. If it does light, then the
problem is in your wiring to the wall switch. If is does not come on, the
problem is in the gas valve. The wiring is the likely culprit.
<fun...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:871d0fe6-29d9-4166...@p29g2000vbn.googlegroups.com...
BobinDurham
Jan 1, 2014, 1:44:01 PM1/1/14
to
replying to John Galbreath Jr., BobinDurham wrote:
me 540 millivolts at the terminals, but when I turned the valve from pilot
to on, the fireplace would not come on. A last ditch effort was to get a
new can of air, with the little straw that lets you direct the air. I
place the straw right into the two little holes on both sides of the
pilot, and blew them out.Next I blew out all of the holesin the burner,
just in case there was a spider nest. Lastly, I cleaned my tp terminals.
The resulting pilot light now looks more like an F-14 in zone 5
afterburner, shooting straight out, not out and up, and I could hear
little crackles like whatever had been blocking it were burning up now.
And when I turned the knob to on, I could hear the gas valve open. So it
works for another year!
--
> firelogs wrote:
>
> Go to the gas valve, look for three terminals. One will be marked TH, one
> TH-TP, and one TP. When the TH and the TH-TP are connected, the fire
lights
> if the gas valve is in the on position and you have a pilot. There is no
> power here, so you can jump with a paper clip. But when you do *** THE
FIRE
> WILL COME ON ***, so be careful and be prepared. If it does light, then
the
> problem is in your wiring to the wall switch. If is does not come on, the
> problem is in the gas valve. The wiring is the likely culprit.
> <fun...@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:871d0fe6-29d9-4166...@p29g2000vbn.googlegroups.com...
>
> Go to the gas valve, look for three terminals. One will be marked TH, one
> TH-TP, and one TP. When the TH and the TH-TP are connected, the fire
lights
> if the gas valve is in the on position and you have a pilot. There is no
> power here, so you can jump with a paper clip. But when you do *** THE
FIRE
> WILL COME ON ***, so be careful and be prepared. If it does light, then
the
> problem is in your wiring to the wall switch. If is does not come on, the
> problem is in the gas valve. The wiring is the likely culprit.
> <fun...@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:871d0fe6-29d9-4166...@p29g2000vbn.googlegroups.com...
> Happy new year to all!
> I checked the fireplace and couldn't figure out the make - the card
> that came with it says XDVR-38RMN, but I couldn't find anything based
> on that description in my Google search. I did see a circuit diagram
> that mentions Thermopile. It's a masonry insert.
> The pilot does light easily and stays lit, so as you suggested, that's
> not where the issue is. I did clean everything out and then tried to
> get the fireplace going again to no avail... There is NO remote with
> the fireplace - just the wall switch. I checked all the circuit
> breakers and saw no issue there. When I flip the wall switch, nothing
> happens. I don't smell gas when I flip the switch... Would a bad
> thermopile result in these symptoms?
> Appreciate any additional pointers you may be able to offer.
> Thanks!
I had the EXACT same problem. What appeared to be a good pilot was giving
> I checked the fireplace and couldn't figure out the make - the card
> that came with it says XDVR-38RMN, but I couldn't find anything based
> on that description in my Google search. I did see a circuit diagram
> that mentions Thermopile. It's a masonry insert.
> The pilot does light easily and stays lit, so as you suggested, that's
> not where the issue is. I did clean everything out and then tried to
> get the fireplace going again to no avail... There is NO remote with
> the fireplace - just the wall switch. I checked all the circuit
> breakers and saw no issue there. When I flip the wall switch, nothing
> happens. I don't smell gas when I flip the switch... Would a bad
> thermopile result in these symptoms?
> Appreciate any additional pointers you may be able to offer.
> Thanks!
me 540 millivolts at the terminals, but when I turned the valve from pilot
to on, the fireplace would not come on. A last ditch effort was to get a
new can of air, with the little straw that lets you direct the air. I
place the straw right into the two little holes on both sides of the
pilot, and blew them out.Next I blew out all of the holesin the burner,
just in case there was a spider nest. Lastly, I cleaned my tp terminals.
The resulting pilot light now looks more like an F-14 in zone 5
afterburner, shooting straight out, not out and up, and I could hear
little crackles like whatever had been blocking it were burning up now.
And when I turned the knob to on, I could hear the gas valve open. So it
works for another year!
--
hrho...@sbcglobal.net
Jan 1, 2014, 6:17:07 PM1/1/14
to
The pilot light flame must hit the thermocouple correctly, or the voltage the thermocouple generates may not be enough to operate the main gas valve, while it is enough to keep the pilot light lit. Try adjusting the pilot light so that it more directly hits the thermocouple, check for clogged holes in the gas supply for the pilot as the previous poster found to be his problem.
Tony Hwang
Jan 1, 2014, 6:41:45 PM1/1/14
to
hrho...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
> The pilot light flame must hit the thermocouple correctly, or the voltage the thermocouple generates may not be enough to operate the main gas valve, while it is enough to keep the pilot light lit. Try adjusting the pilot light so that it more directly hits the thermocouple, check for clogged holes in the gas supply for the pilot as the previous poster found to be his problem.
>
Hi,
> The pilot light flame must hit the thermocouple correctly, or the voltage the thermocouple generates may not be enough to operate the main gas valve, while it is enough to keep the pilot light lit. Try adjusting the pilot light so that it more directly hits the thermocouple, check for clogged holes in the gas supply for the pilot as the previous poster found to be his problem.
>
Main valve is controlled by 24V control voltage, not by thermocouple.
thermocouple's job is to keep the pilot on.
BobinDurham
Jan 1, 2014, 8:44:02 PM1/1/14
to
replying to Tony Hwang , BobinDurham wrote:
the gas valve. Once you turn the valve to pilot and ignite it, the pilot
is on. If the pilot blows out for some reason, the thermopile senses the
loss of heat and shuts the pilot valve down. Which is why if you turn the
pilot on, push the knob in and ignite it....and you don't let the
thermopile heat up enough? The pilot goes out.
--
> dragon40 wrote:
>
> Hi,
> Main valve is controlled by 24V control voltage, not by thermocouple.
> thermocouple's job is to keep the pilot on.
Maybe a thermocouple's....but a thermopile generates the energy to open
>
> Hi,
> Main valve is controlled by 24V control voltage, not by thermocouple.
> thermocouple's job is to keep the pilot on.
the gas valve. Once you turn the valve to pilot and ignite it, the pilot
is on. If the pilot blows out for some reason, the thermopile senses the
loss of heat and shuts the pilot valve down. Which is why if you turn the
pilot on, push the knob in and ignite it....and you don't let the
thermopile heat up enough? The pilot goes out.
--
greg
Jan 28, 2014, 10:45:10 PM1/28/14
to
replying to John Galbreath Jr., greg wrote:
not the gas valve. I then disconnected the wall switch and connected the
wires, it did not light.
So I assume from this the problem is the wiring between the switch and the
unit? That is a major bummer if true as all of this wiring is in the walls
and seems to be nailed to the studs as I can't pull it loose.
Open to any suggestions.
--
> firelogs wrote:
>
> Go to the gas valve, look for three terminals. One will be marked TH, one
> TH-TP, and one TP. When the TH and the TH-TP are connected, the fire
lights
> if the gas valve is in the on position and you have a pilot. There is no
> power here, so you can jump with a paper clip. But when you do *** THE
FIRE
> WILL COME ON ***, so be careful and be prepared. If it does light, then
the
> problem is in your wiring to the wall switch. If is does not come on, the
> problem is in the gas valve. The wiring is the likely culprit.
> <fun...@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:871d0fe6-29d9-4166...@p29g2000vbn.googlegroups.com...
>
> Go to the gas valve, look for three terminals. One will be marked TH, one
> TH-TP, and one TP. When the TH and the TH-TP are connected, the fire
lights
> if the gas valve is in the on position and you have a pilot. There is no
> power here, so you can jump with a paper clip. But when you do *** THE
FIRE
> WILL COME ON ***, so be careful and be prepared. If it does light, then
the
> problem is in your wiring to the wall switch. If is does not come on, the
> problem is in the gas valve. The wiring is the likely culprit.
> <fun...@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:871d0fe6-29d9-4166...@p29g2000vbn.googlegroups.com...
> Happy new year to all!
> I checked the fireplace and couldn't figure out the make - the card
> that came with it says XDVR-38RMN, but I couldn't find anything based
> on that description in my Google search. I did see a circuit diagram
> that mentions Thermopile. It's a masonry insert.
> The pilot does light easily and stays lit, so as you suggested, that's
> not where the issue is. I did clean everything out and then tried to
> get the fireplace going again to no avail... There is NO remote with
> the fireplace - just the wall switch. I checked all the circuit
> breakers and saw no issue there. When I flip the wall switch, nothing
> happens. I don't smell gas when I flip the switch... Would a bad
> thermopile result in these symptoms?
> Appreciate any additional pointers you may be able to offer.
> Thanks!
Thanks for the advice. The paperclip trick worked for me, so I know its
> I checked the fireplace and couldn't figure out the make - the card
> that came with it says XDVR-38RMN, but I couldn't find anything based
> on that description in my Google search. I did see a circuit diagram
> that mentions Thermopile. It's a masonry insert.
> The pilot does light easily and stays lit, so as you suggested, that's
> not where the issue is. I did clean everything out and then tried to
> get the fireplace going again to no avail... There is NO remote with
> the fireplace - just the wall switch. I checked all the circuit
> breakers and saw no issue there. When I flip the wall switch, nothing
> happens. I don't smell gas when I flip the switch... Would a bad
> thermopile result in these symptoms?
> Appreciate any additional pointers you may be able to offer.
> Thanks!
not the gas valve. I then disconnected the wall switch and connected the
wires, it did not light.
So I assume from this the problem is the wiring between the switch and the
unit? That is a major bummer if true as all of this wiring is in the walls
and seems to be nailed to the studs as I can't pull it loose.
Open to any suggestions.
--
greg
Jan 28, 2014, 10:46:10 PM1/28/14
to
replying to John Galbreath Jr., greg wrote:
> firelogs wrote:
>
> firelogs wrote:
>
> Go to the gas valve, look for three terminals. One will be marked TH, one
> TH-TP, and one TP. When the TH and the TH-TP are connected, the fire
lights
> if the gas valve is in the on position and you have a pilot. There is no
> power here, so you can jump with a paper clip. But when you do *** THE
FIRE
> WILL COME ON ***, so be careful and be prepared. If it does light, then
the
> problem is in your wiring to the wall switch. If is does not come on, the
> problem is in the gas valve. The wiring is the likely culprit.
Paperclip test worked.
> TH-TP, and one TP. When the TH and the TH-TP are connected, the fire
lights
> if the gas valve is in the on position and you have a pilot. There is no
> power here, so you can jump with a paper clip. But when you do *** THE
FIRE
> WILL COME ON ***, so be careful and be prepared. If it does light, then
the
> problem is in your wiring to the wall switch. If is does not come on, the
> problem is in the gas valve. The wiring is the likely culprit.
Put a meter between the two screws that were successful in the paperclip
test and reading was 260.
Any advice is appreciated from here. I tried to just manually connect the
two wires that were at the wall switch and that did not work.
--
Tony Hwang
Jan 28, 2014, 11:14:40 PM1/28/14
to
If the FP has removable sealed glass front, there is a interlock switch.
Just like gas furnace has cover interlock switch. Checked that
switch?
Tony Hwang
Jan 28, 2014, 11:16:15 PM1/28/14
to
260 what? Volt DC, AC? Or Ohm reading?
Stormin Mormon
Jan 29, 2014, 7:39:22 AM1/29/14
to
On 1/28/2014 11:14 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:
> Hi,
> If the FP has removable sealed glass front, there is a interlock switch.
> Just like gas furnace has cover interlock switch. Checked that
> switch?
I worked on a natural gas fireplace, last year. The HO
> Hi,
> If the FP has removable sealed glass front, there is a interlock switch.
> Just like gas furnace has cover interlock switch. Checked that
> switch?
kept insisting that I had to change the batteries. This
made no sense to me. I finally found a plastic box under
the FP which had four AA cell. Change the batteries, and
it came back to life.
--
.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
Terry Coombs
Jan 29, 2014, 8:15:15 AM1/29/14
to
customer down in Memphis that is having the same type of problem with a
floor furnace , but intermittent . He has whole-house forced air too so he's
not cold , but he leaves a crawl space door open a little so his cat can
shelter there . He worries about his pipes ...
--
Snag
greg
Jan 29, 2014, 9:44:01 AM1/29/14
to
replying to Tony Hwang , greg wrote:
open/close.
--
> dragon40 wrote:
>
> Hi,
> If the FP has removable sealed glass front, there is a interlock switch.
> Just like gas furnace has cover interlock switch. Checked that
> switch?
no sealed glass front on this one. Its a normal box with a flu that I
>
> Hi,
> If the FP has removable sealed glass front, there is a interlock switch.
> Just like gas furnace has cover interlock switch. Checked that
> switch?
open/close.
--
greg
Jan 29, 2014, 10:44:01 AM1/29/14
to
replying to Tony Hwang , greg wrote:
> dragon40 wrote:
>
> dragon40 wrote:
>
> Hi,
> 260 what? Volt DC, AC? Or Ohm reading?
millivolts. It was 220 this morning. Tested the TP terminals. From what I
> 260 what? Volt DC, AC? Or Ohm reading?
am gathering this means I need a new thermopile?
--
Steve F.
Jan 29, 2014, 1:38:03 PM1/29/14
to
cheapest, quick fix/test option. Hopefully the gas valve is not on
its way out, either.
greg
Jan 29, 2014, 4:44:02 PM1/29/14
to
replying to Steve F. , greg wrote:
--
> lost wrote:
>
> I would. Should be above 300 *at* the thermostat. Replacement is the
> cheapest, quick fix/test option. Hopefully the gas valve is not on
> its way out, either.
Do you have a specific model or brand you recommend?
>
> I would. Should be above 300 *at* the thermostat. Replacement is the
> cheapest, quick fix/test option. Hopefully the gas valve is not on
> its way out, either.
--
ahenk...@gmail.com
Nov 15, 2015, 7:08:22 PM11/15/15
to
I'm dealing with a similar problem. Bought the house this summer, and got the pilot light lit when fall came. Flipped on the wall switch, took a minute or two and then fired up. Try to turn the wall switch on other days, wait several minutes, nothing happens. Turn off the gas, relight the pilot light, flip the wall switch on and again it fires up after a minute or two. Then I still have the same problem on other days where it won't fire. After reading these posts, I had seen a little box under the fireplace so I pulled that out, it's a remote start which seems to work fine. Turns on turns off no problem. So I turned it on with the remote, flipped on the wall switch, turned off the remote and it stayed lit. Assuming there's a problem with the wiring in the wall switch? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Oren
Nov 15, 2015, 7:17:38 PM11/15/15
to
On Sun, 15 Nov 2015 16:08:19 -0800 (PST), ahenk...@gmail.com wrote:
>I'm dealing with a similar problem. Bought the house this summer, and got the pilot light lit when fall came. Flipped on the wall switch, took a minute or two and then fired up. Try to turn the wall switch on other days, wait several minutes, nothing happens. Turn off the gas, relight the pilot light, flip the wall switch on and again it fires up after a minute or two. Then I still have the same problem on other days where it won't fire. After reading these posts, I had seen a little box under the fireplace so I pulled that out, it's a remote start which seems to work fine. Turns on turns off no problem. So I turned it on with the remote, flipped on the wall switch, turned off the remote and it stayed lit. Assuming there's a problem with the wiring in the wall switch? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Trace it back to low voltage past the switch. Check the transformer
>I'm dealing with a similar problem. Bought the house this summer, and got the pilot light lit when fall came. Flipped on the wall switch, took a minute or two and then fired up. Try to turn the wall switch on other days, wait several minutes, nothing happens. Turn off the gas, relight the pilot light, flip the wall switch on and again it fires up after a minute or two. Then I still have the same problem on other days where it won't fire. After reading these posts, I had seen a little box under the fireplace so I pulled that out, it's a remote start which seems to work fine. Turns on turns off no problem. So I turned it on with the remote, flipped on the wall switch, turned off the remote and it stayed lit. Assuming there's a problem with the wiring in the wall switch? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
maybe? Folks here can help -- provide the model number and/or a URL
to the exact unit.
hrho...@att.net
Nov 15, 2015, 9:06:23 PM11/15/15
to
Try bypassing the wall switch with a clip lead or by shorting out/connecting the two terminals at the switch. Spiders have been known to live inside switches, especially if they were idle for 2+ years.
BobinMass
Nov 16, 2015, 8:44:04 AM11/16/15
to
replying to BobK207, BobinMass wrote:
short. Find the two wires going to the switch and cut them and connect
them. It's only 750 millivolts at best, so you are not going to
electrocute yourself! If that doesn't work, it's either the
thermocoupler or the oxygen thingie on the back/ I know that is not
very technical, but there is an oxygen sensor that makes sure you don't
die of carbon monoxide poison. Go to to Home Depot, Lowes, or Staples
and get a can of air. Find the hole and clean it out. I had a neighbor
who hadn't used his fireplace in a coupla years and he told me I saved him
$75 with a ten cent blast of air. Dust and soot get in there. Hope that
helps!
--
> rkazanjy wrote:
>
> Funny thing......I just went through a very similar process with our
> gas log set today.
> I tried to light the pilot & it would light but not stay lit
> So.... I turned off everything.....the electrical switch on the log
> set (my set doens't have a wall switch), the manual valve on the log
> set to "off" postion and the recessed gas cock on the side of the
> fireplace.
> I did the start up process....open gas cock, turn manual valve to
> "pilot" & depress, light pilot and hold knob in for ~2 minutes, turn
> manual valve to "on".
> Pliot stayed lit......flipped electrical switch to "on" and the log
> set fired up & has stayed burning for a few hours so far.
> I have no idea why the pilot wouldn't stay lit but turning everything
> off seems to have fixed it. ????
> Give the "total shutdown and wait a few minutes before a re-start"
> a try.
> cheers
> Bob
Gas fire places are really simple. Usually with a wall switch there is a
>
> Funny thing......I just went through a very similar process with our
> gas log set today.
> I tried to light the pilot & it would light but not stay lit
> So.... I turned off everything.....the electrical switch on the log
> set (my set doens't have a wall switch), the manual valve on the log
> set to "off" postion and the recessed gas cock on the side of the
> fireplace.
> I did the start up process....open gas cock, turn manual valve to
> "pilot" & depress, light pilot and hold knob in for ~2 minutes, turn
> manual valve to "on".
> Pliot stayed lit......flipped electrical switch to "on" and the log
> set fired up & has stayed burning for a few hours so far.
> I have no idea why the pilot wouldn't stay lit but turning everything
> off seems to have fixed it. ????
> Give the "total shutdown and wait a few minutes before a re-start"
> a try.
> cheers
> Bob
short. Find the two wires going to the switch and cut them and connect
them. It's only 750 millivolts at best, so you are not going to
electrocute yourself! If that doesn't work, it's either the
thermocoupler or the oxygen thingie on the back/ I know that is not
very technical, but there is an oxygen sensor that makes sure you don't
die of carbon monoxide poison. Go to to Home Depot, Lowes, or Staples
and get a can of air. Find the hole and clean it out. I had a neighbor
who hadn't used his fireplace in a coupla years and he told me I saved him
$75 with a ten cent blast of air. Dust and soot get in there. Hope that
helps!
--
dw1...@gmail.com
Nov 28, 2015, 11:38:01 AM11/28/15
to
I jumped the terminals but as soon as I removed the paper lip the gas goes out?
Tony Hwang
Nov 28, 2015, 12:06:25 PM11/28/15
to
dw1...@gmail.com wrote:
> I jumped the terminals but as soon as I removed the paper lip the gas goes out?
>
Main valve is closing then when you remove jumper.(does not stay open)
> I jumped the terminals but as soon as I removed the paper lip the gas goes out?
>
You have thermostat on that FP?
dw1...@gmail.com
Nov 28, 2015, 12:13:54 PM11/28/15
to
No thermostat no wall control just the pilot button and thermo on the right side and the on off bad adjust for flames on the left side.
Tony Hwang
Nov 28, 2015, 12:45:45 PM11/28/15
to
dw1...@gmail.com wrote:
> No thermostat no wall control just the pilot button and thermo on the right side and the on off bad adjust for flames on the left side.
>
I had that problem on one of my FP. I traced the wires and there was a
> No thermostat no wall control just the pilot button and thermo on the right side and the on off bad adjust for flames on the left side.
>
poor crimping job on one feeding the 24V AC power to maan valve
solenoid. I have two wall switches for the FP, one for on/off, one for
fan on/off(I leave it on always). Fan is controlled by thermo. switch
mounted on the fire box wall usually.
Stormin Mormon
Nov 28, 2015, 3:47:44 PM11/28/15
to
On 11/28/2015 11:37 AM, dw1...@gmail.com wrote:
> I jumped the terminals but as soon as I
> removed the paper lip the gas goes out?
>
How would any of us know? We're not there
> I jumped the terminals but as soon as I
> removed the paper lip the gas goes out?
>
to see. YOU are the only one who knows for
sure.
--
.
Christopher A. Young
. www.lds.org
.
.
billy...@gmail.com
Jan 7, 2016, 7:33:20 PM1/7/16
to
On Wednesday, December 24, 2008 at 7:34:23 PM UTC-5, fun...@gmail.com wrote:
> Hello all -
>
> first post on this forum, so please excuse any newbie errors...
>
> I have a gas fireplace at home that I haven't used in a couple of
> years. I had turned the pilot off after I used it last. I tried to
> start it back up yesterday, and the pilot started right up. I have a
> wall switch that controls the gas flow and turns the fireplace on.
> When I try to flip the switch to turn the fireplace on, it does
> nothing 9 times out of 10. Occassionally the flames will come and
> stay lit for a couple of minutes before going out again, and then
> nothing. I don't smell any gas when the fireplace switch is on but
> the flame isn't present. Not sure where to look to try and debug this
> issue... any helpful pointers would be greatly appreciated!
>
> Merry Christmas!
If your pilot light is lit, but you can't get the logs to light it may be your micro switch. My switch was located near my igniter button. Just put your gas log switch (light switch) in the on position. Take the two wires off the micro switch and touch them together. If the gas logs light you have found your problem! Don't worry, touching the wires together will not give you a shock.
> Hello all -
>
> first post on this forum, so please excuse any newbie errors...
>
> I have a gas fireplace at home that I haven't used in a couple of
> years. I had turned the pilot off after I used it last. I tried to
> start it back up yesterday, and the pilot started right up. I have a
> wall switch that controls the gas flow and turns the fireplace on.
> When I try to flip the switch to turn the fireplace on, it does
> nothing 9 times out of 10. Occassionally the flames will come and
> stay lit for a couple of minutes before going out again, and then
> nothing. I don't smell any gas when the fireplace switch is on but
> the flame isn't present. Not sure where to look to try and debug this
> issue... any helpful pointers would be greatly appreciated!
>
> Merry Christmas!
billy...@gmail.com
Jan 7, 2016, 7:33:49 PM1/7/16
to
Stormin Mormon
Jan 7, 2016, 8:51:06 PM1/7/16
to
On 1/7/2016 7:33 PM, billy...@gmail.com wrote:
> On Wednesday, December 24, 2008 at 7:34:23 PM UTC-5, fun...@gmail.com wrote:
>> Hello all -
>>
>> first post on this forum, so please excuse any newbie errors...
>>
> On Wednesday, December 24, 2008 at 7:34:23 PM UTC-5, fun...@gmail.com wrote:
>> Hello all -
>>
>> first post on this forum, so please excuse any newbie errors...
>>
> If your pilot light is lit, but you can't get the logs to light it may be your micro switch. My switch was located near my igniter button. Just put your gas log switch (light switch) in the on position. Take the two wires off the micro switch and touch them together. If the gas logs light you have found your problem! Don't worry, touching the wires together will not give you a shock.
>
Your newbie error is posting in 2008, and
>
getting answer in 2016.
mike
Jan 7, 2016, 11:25:46 PM1/7/16
to
Or stuck solenoid, or whatever turns on the gas.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
Jan 7, 2016, 11:25:46 PM1/7/16
to
I'm thinking control problems.
BP
Jan 8, 2016, 12:44:05 AM1/8/16
to
replying to funkdys, BP wrote:
Heatilator natural gas fireplace. I went to start it up this year and I
could get the pilot lite but when I went to turn on the main wall switch,
nothing with the main burner. I went through all the trouble shooting and
the thermopile/pilot was borderline so I replaced the complete assembly.
The numbers are much better now but still the main burner won't trip on
when I flipped the switch. I also tried shorting the wires together
thinking the switch was bad but nothing. What voltage should the wall
switch have at it? I'm not sure what voltage the valve operates off of
and Heatilator support is no help.
Thoughts?
BP
--
> funkdys wrote:
>
> Hello all -
> first post on this forum, so please excuse any newbie errors...
> I have a gas fireplace at home that I haven't used in a couple of
> years. I had turned the pilot off after I used it last. I tried to
> start it back up yesterday, and the pilot started right up. I have a
> wall switch that controls the gas flow and turns the fireplace on.
> When I try to flip the switch to turn the fireplace on, it does
> nothing 9 times out of 10. Occassionally the flames will come and
> stay lit for a couple of minutes before going out again, and then
> nothing. I don't smell any gas when the fireplace switch is on but
> the flame isn't present. Not sure where to look to try and debug this
> issue... any helpful pointers would be greatly appreciated!
> Merry Christmas!
I'm having a similar problem. Asking the forum for help with my
>
> Hello all -
> first post on this forum, so please excuse any newbie errors...
> I have a gas fireplace at home that I haven't used in a couple of
> years. I had turned the pilot off after I used it last. I tried to
> start it back up yesterday, and the pilot started right up. I have a
> wall switch that controls the gas flow and turns the fireplace on.
> When I try to flip the switch to turn the fireplace on, it does
> nothing 9 times out of 10. Occassionally the flames will come and
> stay lit for a couple of minutes before going out again, and then
> nothing. I don't smell any gas when the fireplace switch is on but
> the flame isn't present. Not sure where to look to try and debug this
> issue... any helpful pointers would be greatly appreciated!
> Merry Christmas!
Heatilator natural gas fireplace. I went to start it up this year and I
could get the pilot lite but when I went to turn on the main wall switch,
nothing with the main burner. I went through all the trouble shooting and
the thermopile/pilot was borderline so I replaced the complete assembly.
The numbers are much better now but still the main burner won't trip on
when I flipped the switch. I also tried shorting the wires together
thinking the switch was bad but nothing. What voltage should the wall
switch have at it? I'm not sure what voltage the valve operates off of
and Heatilator support is no help.
Thoughts?
BP
--
Uncle Monster
Jan 8, 2016, 1:51:41 AM1/8/16
to
[8~{} Uncle Restrained Monster
Stormin Mormon
Jan 8, 2016, 7:06:49 AM1/8/16
to
control problems. Perhaps he needs to be in
a geriatric ward with you?
Tekkie®
Jan 8, 2016, 3:14:40 PM1/8/16
to
Uncle Monster posted for all of us...
> I was going to comment on me having a plugged orifice one time while in the hospital but I bit my hand to keep myself from writing the post......?.?
>
> [8~{} Uncle Restrained Monster
You didn't want to get reamed out.
--
Tekkie
>
> [8~{} Uncle Restrained Monster
You didn't want to get reamed out.
--
Tekkie
Charles Bishop
Jan 17, 2016, 5:13:31 PM1/17/16
to
In article <6CEjy.152112$qz7.1...@fx01.iad>,
This is happening in two other groups that I know of. Theory is that
it's to do with Google Groups and people accessing it from mobile
devices.
--
charlss
it's to do with Google Groups and people accessing it from mobile
devices.
--
charlss
RodCarewPDX
Nov 7, 2016, 3:44:04 PM11/7/16
to
replying to John Galbreath Jr., RodCarewPDX wrote:
I had the same issue when getting my pilot lit after being off for the past
Spring+Summer. John, thank you for the troubleshooting tip. It worked great
and I was able to find a short at the switch, cut back the wire and re-attach
a clean connections.
--
for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/gas-fireplace-won-t-start-up-pilot-is-lit-349828-.htm
I had the same issue when getting my pilot lit after being off for the past
Spring+Summer. John, thank you for the troubleshooting tip. It worked great
and I was able to find a short at the switch, cut back the wire and re-attach
a clean connections.
--
for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/gas-fireplace-won-t-start-up-pilot-is-lit-349828-.htm
Chris f.
Nov 20, 2016, 12:44:04 PM11/20/16
to
replying to funkdys, Chris f. wrote:
If you have an "automatic pilot system" meaning when you flip the switch the
pilot light comes on, unlike a standing pilot light which is always on. Now
you flip the switch the pilot light comes on but then nothing happens. You
wait and wait and the fire does not come on??? OK, remove the bottom access
panel, with a flashlight look inside. Find the battery pack that should be
laying next to the modules. Replace the batteries, clean the contacts if
necessary. Solved our problem, hopefully yours too, such an easy fix
If you have an "automatic pilot system" meaning when you flip the switch the
pilot light comes on, unlike a standing pilot light which is always on. Now
you flip the switch the pilot light comes on but then nothing happens. You
wait and wait and the fire does not come on??? OK, remove the bottom access
panel, with a flashlight look inside. Find the battery pack that should be
laying next to the modules. Replace the batteries, clean the contacts if
necessary. Solved our problem, hopefully yours too, such an easy fix
riq...@yahoo.com
Nov 25, 2016, 4:43:13 PM11/25/16
to
My recent problem is pilot light is lit but when I turn on the switch to light up fireplace it doesn't light up. So, I used a paper clip to jump it at the connections and after a while it lit up. So I conect the wires back and it is now working like it's supposed to. My question is, what is the problem, why didn't it turn on at first before jumping? Is it a possible bad wire or gas valve. Remember I thought it was the wire..but when I reconnected everything back and turn the switch on it worked.
Oren
Nov 25, 2016, 5:00:04 PM11/25/16
to
On Fri, 25 Nov 2016 13:43:08 -0800 (PST), riq...@yahoo.com wrote:
>My recent problem is pilot light is lit but when I turn on the switch to light up fireplace it doesn't light up. So, I used a paper clip to jump it at the connections and after a while it lit up. So I conect the wires back and it is now working like it's supposed to. My question is, what is the problem, why didn't it turn on at first before jumping? Is it a possible bad wire or gas valve. Remember I thought it was the wire..but when I reconnected everything back and turn the switch on it worked.
Not holding down the igniter long enough before turning the switch?
>My recent problem is pilot light is lit but when I turn on the switch to light up fireplace it doesn't light up. So, I used a paper clip to jump it at the connections and after a while it lit up. So I conect the wires back and it is now working like it's supposed to. My question is, what is the problem, why didn't it turn on at first before jumping? Is it a possible bad wire or gas valve. Remember I thought it was the wire..but when I reconnected everything back and turn the switch on it worked.
Air in the gas line - purge it out... or low gas pressure.
Clean the burner orifices, etc. YMMV
Message has been deleted
riq...@yahoo.com
Nov 25, 2016, 5:15:13 PM11/25/16
to
Is it necessary to hold Ignitor when pilot is lit? So why the switch? Air may be the corprit. Orfice are clean.
riq...@yahoo.com
Nov 25, 2016, 5:20:33 PM11/25/16
to
Oren, I appreciate your response. Thanks.
So you are saying thecthat even though the pilot is on. hold Ignitor down for a little while then flip the switch.
So you are saying thecthat even though the pilot is on. hold Ignitor down for a little while then flip the switch.
Oren
Nov 25, 2016, 6:18:10 PM11/25/16
to
On Fri, 25 Nov 2016 14:20:30 -0800 (PST), riq...@yahoo.com wrote:
>Oren, I appreciate your response. Thanks.
>So you are saying thecthat even though the pilot is on. hold Ignitor down for a little while then flip the switch.
I'm saying if the wall switch is on, holding the igniter down longer
>Oren, I appreciate your response. Thanks.
>So you are saying thecthat even though the pilot is on. hold Ignitor down for a little while then flip the switch.
allows the gas to flow before you turn on the valve switch. I'm
confused now. Was the gas line ever disconnected to allow air in the
line or is it low gas pressure...
Start a new thread with your brand and model number for the gas
fireplace appliance. Instead of picking up mid-stream. So many
variables as to your problem.
I remain confused.
riq...@yahoo.com
Nov 26, 2016, 11:44:16 AM11/26/16
to
Gas was never connected.I think you are correct..it hesitates to turn on due to air. Ok, I will start a new tread.
dbafly...@gmail.com
Nov 26, 2016, 12:58:12 PM11/26/16
to
I just went through this today. Turns out the gas line to the pilot flame was blocked. There was an orifice on the end of the line near the thermocouple that was corroded and blocked. Cleaning this up so proper amount of gas could flow and provide proper pilot flames fixed it.
Oren
Nov 26, 2016, 3:15:18 PM11/26/16
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On Sat, 26 Nov 2016 08:44:13 -0800 (PST), riq...@yahoo.com wrote:
>Gas was never connected.I think you are correct..it hesitates to turn on due to air. Ok, I will start a new tread.
The gas line is lower pressure. Purge the air out, connect the line
>Gas was never connected.I think you are correct..it hesitates to turn on due to air. Ok, I will start a new tread.
and try lighting again. Make sure you have tools ready.
CAUTION -- DANGER Do not have any sparks or fire flames around. With
the line disconnected turn on the gas until you smell it, turn it off
and _immediately_ connect the gas line. Then try starting the
fireplace again. What you are doing is purging the air from the line.
Changing a gas water heater, I had to purge the air out, before it
would fire.
DO BE CAREFUL.
riq...@yahoo.com
Nov 27, 2016, 1:20:33 PM11/27/16
to
Thanks...it is working now. Last year I had the same problem. I need to find out how air is getting into the system. The people at the house have not had any reason why this is happening. Last year it did the same it hesitated to light up. Last year I replaced the switch. This year I had to jump it at the valve connections. Once it lit I removed jump wires and connected back all wires. I then flipped switch and it worked..the only thing I can say is somehow air got into system. I got repair any thing cause it is working now. I will inquire with gas company about what is causing this. Thanks all for your input. I just want to flip switch and fireplace to turn on with out hesitation.
Oren
Nov 27, 2016, 3:06:09 PM11/27/16
to
On Sun, 27 Nov 2016 10:20:28 -0800 (PST), riq...@yahoo.com wrote:
>Thanks...it is working now. Last year I had the same problem. I need to find out how air is getting into the system. The people at the house have not had any reason why this is happening. Last year it did the same it hesitated to light up. Last year I replaced the switch. This year I had to jump it at the valve connections. Once it lit I removed jump wires and connected back all wires. I then flipped switch and it worked..the only thing I can say is somehow air got into system. I got repair any thing cause it is working now. I will inquire with gas company about what is causing this. Thanks all for your input. I just want to flip switch and fireplace to turn on with out hesitation.
Air _should_ not be getting into the gas line; if properly sealed,
>Thanks...it is working now. Last year I had the same problem. I need to find out how air is getting into the system. The people at the house have not had any reason why this is happening. Last year it did the same it hesitated to light up. Last year I replaced the switch. This year I had to jump it at the valve connections. Once it lit I removed jump wires and connected back all wires. I then flipped switch and it worked..the only thing I can say is somehow air got into system. I got repair any thing cause it is working now. I will inquire with gas company about what is causing this. Thanks all for your input. I just want to flip switch and fireplace to turn on with out hesitation.
otherwise it seems gas would also be leaking out, no? Are you turning
off the gas valve after winter?
Maybe contact your gas utility company and have them inspect the
lines. In my area they provide a free service to connect gas
appliances and inspect them.
Chris f.
Dec 3, 2016, 11:44:04 AM12/3/16
to
replying to funkdys, Chris f. wrote:
EASY FIX! - Maybe, moved into our 10 yr old house 2 yrs ago. Our Heatolator
always had issues lighting, flipping the switch many times before lighting.
Had a guy come out last yr who charged $100 to clean everything, worked a
little better for a week or so then back to same old problem..recently I
started poking around under bottom where components are located with a
flashlight I spotted wire leading off to what turned out to be a battery PAC
with 2 D cells in it.. they were very corroded. I remove the two batteries
clean the connections put two fresh batteries in and Wala the fireplace starts
up every time on the first throw out the switch. This would be for gas
fireplaces with an automatic pilot light meaning that you do not have to get
down and light the pilot light yourself it is controlled by the wall switch.
I assume these batteries have something to do with the electronic ignition,
either way it's fixed my problem. Nobody anywhere ever mentions this when
talking about fixing these fireplaces
lwtho...@gmail.com
Dec 9, 2016, 9:03:14 PM12/9/16
to
Our fireplace has been working fine then last night when I turned the knob off like normal I went too far and the pilot light went out. Went to restart it and the pilot will light but as soon as I go to allow flow of gas to the logs it goes out and cuts off. We just had it served and cleaned so I don't think it is dirty or blocked in any way. Tried turning the gas on to the logs and lighting it with a match and nothing, almost as if the logs are not getting any gas. Any suggestions. I hate to call the service guy that just told me everything was fine. Thanks.
>
> Merry Christmas!
>
> Merry Christmas!
mhay...@gmail.com
Dec 16, 2016, 7:42:19 PM12/16/16
to
Guys, I'm have a similar issue. Ventless Real-Fyre G9-2 unit with wall mounted remote. Pilot stays on and I can manually turn the FP on with the on turn knob on the unit but remote box will not work. I bypassed the wall connection with a brand new sky-tech remote box and connected directly to the TP TH / TH connectors but when I move the Skytech box to the on position it still does not ignite. So I bypassed the wires in the wall thinking maybe mice and connected directly to unit with new remote box but nothing. Again, manual operations work fine. I'm stumped.
Pat
Dec 17, 2016, 5:33:59 AM12/17/16
to
On Fri, 16 Dec 2016 16:42:13 -0800 (PST), mhay...@gmail.com wrote:
>Guys, I'm have a similar issue. Ventless Real-Fyre G9-2 unit with wall mounted remote. Pilot stays on and I can manually turn the FP on with the on turn knob on the unit but remote box will not work. I bypassed the wall connection with a brand new sky-tech remote box and connected directly to the TP TH / TH connectors but when I move the Skytech box to the on position it still does not ignite. So I bypassed the wires in the wall thinking maybe mice and connected directly to unit with new remote box but nothing. Again, manual operations work fine. I'm stumped.
If you turn it on manually, can you turn it off from the remote?
>Guys, I'm have a similar issue. Ventless Real-Fyre G9-2 unit with wall mounted remote. Pilot stays on and I can manually turn the FP on with the on turn knob on the unit but remote box will not work. I bypassed the wall connection with a brand new sky-tech remote box and connected directly to the TP TH / TH connectors but when I move the Skytech box to the on position it still does not ignite. So I bypassed the wires in the wall thinking maybe mice and connected directly to unit with new remote box but nothing. Again, manual operations work fine. I'm stumped.
greg.l...@gmail.com
Dec 22, 2016, 5:34:58 PM12/22/16
to
Similar problem. Pilot is lit and the switch which has on / off / remote works for a while, then I can not turn it on with the switch or remote.
I had to replace the previous switch a because I could almost never get it to work. The connector on the new switch did not match the old one so I had to splice the wire from the fireplace to the new receiver together. When it is not working and I switch it from OFF to ON and it does not light, if I disconnect one of the splices and then reconnect it lights no problem. Also, I can touch the two wires from the fire place together and it lights no problem every time so I am pretty sure it is not anything from the wire back. Any thoughts?
I had to replace the previous switch a because I could almost never get it to work. The connector on the new switch did not match the old one so I had to splice the wire from the fireplace to the new receiver together. When it is not working and I switch it from OFF to ON and it does not light, if I disconnect one of the splices and then reconnect it lights no problem. Also, I can touch the two wires from the fire place together and it lights no problem every time so I am pretty sure it is not anything from the wire back. Any thoughts?
sushi...@gmail.com
Jan 22, 2017, 12:21:02 PM1/22/17
to
The pilot light stays lit but no flame. I just replaced the thermopile and still have the same problem. I did as you suggested and jumped the TH & TH-TP with a paper clip, I did not get a flame, please advise, thanks
On Thursday, December 25, 2008 at 7:49:09 AM UTC-5, Tom Lachance wrote:
> fun...@gmail.com wrote:
> > Hello all -
> >
> 1. Direct vent or natural vent
> 2. Free standing, zero clearance or masonry insert
> 3. Vented or unvented gas log.
> 4. ODS or thermocouple/thermopile
> The above combinations can be used in a number of ways.
>
> Thermocouple/thermopile assemblies have 2 separate circuits powered by
> the their respective devices.
> Thermocouple = 20 millivolts (+/-)
> Thermopile = 750 millivolts (+/-)
> If the pilot lights and stays lit, the problem isn't with the pilot circuit.
> If the main burner doesn't light, the problem is in the main burner circuit.
> Some units have more than 1 switch controlling them.
> The supplied switches on the units are notoriously unreliable.
> The gas valve generally has connections for the main burner labeled TH,
> TP, and TH/TP. The main burner is operated by a switch that makes a
> circuit between the TH and TH/TP connections.
> Is there a remote installed on the fireplace? If so, there is usually a
> switch on it labeled on/remote/ off. If you move the switch to on and
> the main burner lights, check the batteries in both the remote and the
> receiver. If it doesn't light, check the other switches/controls
> connected to the above connections.
>
> The above procedure assumes the control valve is in the "ON" position
> and not in "PILOT".
On Thursday, December 25, 2008 at 7:49:09 AM UTC-5, Tom Lachance wrote:
> fun...@gmail.com wrote:
> > Hello all -
> >
> > first post on this forum, so please excuse any newbie errors...
> >
> >
> > I have a gas fireplace at home that I haven't used in a couple of
> > years. I had turned the pilot off after I used it last. I tried to
> > start it back up yesterday, and the pilot started right up. I have a
> > wall switch that controls the gas flow and turns the fireplace on.
> > When I try to flip the switch to turn the fireplace on, it does
> > nothing 9 times out of 10. Occassionally the flames will come and
> > stay lit for a couple of minutes before going out again, and then
> > nothing. I don't smell any gas when the fireplace switch is on but
> > the flame isn't present. Not sure where to look to try and debug this
> > issue... any helpful pointers would be greatly appreciated!
> >
> > Merry Christmas!
> First of all, need to know what kind of "fireplace" it is:
> > years. I had turned the pilot off after I used it last. I tried to
> > start it back up yesterday, and the pilot started right up. I have a
> > wall switch that controls the gas flow and turns the fireplace on.
> > When I try to flip the switch to turn the fireplace on, it does
> > nothing 9 times out of 10. Occassionally the flames will come and
> > stay lit for a couple of minutes before going out again, and then
> > nothing. I don't smell any gas when the fireplace switch is on but
> > the flame isn't present. Not sure where to look to try and debug this
> > issue... any helpful pointers would be greatly appreciated!
> >
> > Merry Christmas!
> 1. Direct vent or natural vent
> 2. Free standing, zero clearance or masonry insert
> 3. Vented or unvented gas log.
> 4. ODS or thermocouple/thermopile
> The above combinations can be used in a number of ways.
>
> Thermocouple/thermopile assemblies have 2 separate circuits powered by
> the their respective devices.
> Thermocouple = 20 millivolts (+/-)
> Thermopile = 750 millivolts (+/-)
> If the pilot lights and stays lit, the problem isn't with the pilot circuit.
> If the main burner doesn't light, the problem is in the main burner circuit.
> Some units have more than 1 switch controlling them.
> The supplied switches on the units are notoriously unreliable.
> The gas valve generally has connections for the main burner labeled TH,
> TP, and TH/TP. The main burner is operated by a switch that makes a
> circuit between the TH and TH/TP connections.
> Is there a remote installed on the fireplace? If so, there is usually a
> switch on it labeled on/remote/ off. If you move the switch to on and
> the main burner lights, check the batteries in both the remote and the
> receiver. If it doesn't light, check the other switches/controls
> connected to the above connections.
>
> The above procedure assumes the control valve is in the "ON" position
> and not in "PILOT".
masseyu...@gmail.com
Nov 2, 2017, 7:47:34 AM11/2/17
to
It could a lose connection or bad wire. My fireplace was coming on intermittently. So I went to look at the wiring and lifted one of the wires and it came right on. So I knew that the wire was either bad or it was lose connection. It turned out being a lose connect . Works great now. So anyway check your wiring fist make sure everything is connected and not lose. It can be as simple as that.
mcker...@gmail.com
Nov 21, 2017, 10:50:21 AM11/21/17
to
On Thursday, November 2, 2017 at 7:47:34 AM UTC-4, masseyu...@gmail.com wrote:
> It could a lose connection or bad wire. My fireplace was coming on intermittently. So I went to look at the wiring and lifted one of the wires and it came right on. So I knew that the wire was either bad or it was lose connection. It turned out being a lose connect . Works great now. So anyway check your wiring fist make sure everything is connected and not lose. It can be as simple as that.
HELP PLEASE!
> It could a lose connection or bad wire. My fireplace was coming on intermittently. So I went to look at the wiring and lifted one of the wires and it came right on. So I knew that the wire was either bad or it was lose connection. It turned out being a lose connect . Works great now. So anyway check your wiring fist make sure everything is connected and not lose. It can be as simple as that.
I have a Heatmaster Vent-Free Gas Log set. It is operated manually (no wall/remote switch) I can get the Pilot to light and stay lighted but when I turn the valve to "ON" the burner does not light. I have cleaned the double burner and pilot area with compressed air. What can I do next?? Thanks for any suggestions.
trader_4
Nov 21, 2017, 4:35:29 PM11/21/17
to
in the pilot flame and connected to the gas valve. The thermocouple, when
hot, generates a small electric current that the gas valve needs to open
to supply gas to the burners.The reasons why are obvious. Probably a
bad thermocouple, it's a common failure.
Oren
Nov 21, 2017, 4:57:32 PM11/21/17
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You may have air in the gas line and it needs to be purged. Disconnect
the line, open the valve until you smell gas. Close the valve,
connect the line and try again.
Don't hurt yourself!
Lorna
Dec 4, 2017, 8:44:07 PM12/4/17
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replying to BobinDurham, Lorna wrote:
Thanks so much for your tip. I sprayed the compressed air all around with no
success. Only when I put the straw into the hole beside the pilot light did
the fireplace light. I was just about to call service. Lorna
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/gas-fireplace-won-t-start-up-pilot-is-lit-349828-.htm
Thanks so much for your tip. I sprayed the compressed air all around with no
success. Only when I put the straw into the hole beside the pilot light did
the fireplace light. I was just about to call service. Lorna
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/gas-fireplace-won-t-start-up-pilot-is-lit-349828-.htm
trader_4
Dec 4, 2017, 10:49:58 PM12/4/17
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cryst...@gmail.com
Dec 20, 2017, 11:47:17 PM12/20/17
to
Thx....this helped me and got mine going!!
FlyFishingUte
Jan 1, 2018, 11:44:06 PM1/1/18
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replying to trader_4, FlyFishingUte wrote:
Same issue - need help. The paper clip method did not work on my situation.
The TP to TP/TH measurement off is 292, and on is 122. Took a brush to the
thermopile to clean the soot off
Same issue - need help. The paper clip method did not work on my situation.
The TP to TP/TH measurement off is 292, and on is 122. Took a brush to the
thermopile to clean the soot off
Jim
Jan 7, 2018, 2:14:06 PM1/7/18
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replying to funkdys, Jim wrote:
There's a safety switch underneath the glass that has to be depressed for the
gas to go on.
There's a safety switch underneath the glass that has to be depressed for the
gas to go on.
jwdeardorff
Mar 29, 2018, 8:44:11 AM3/29/18
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replying to BobinDurham, jwdeardorff wrote:
Ha! F-14 in zone 5. :)
Ha! F-14 in zone 5. :)
fr...@musc.edu
Nov 28, 2018, 8:53:19 AM11/28/18
to
Hello folks,
I, too, had an issue with the wall thermostat intermittently operating the thermopile powered gas log set. The 18 gauge thermostat wire run is about 25' which is a long run for a 750mV thermopile. I replaced thermopile and it did fine for a while. Checked various sites for TESTING with a 1.5volt battery and the valve opened every single time. DO NOT leave it hooked up like that as all safety devices are defeated. Got me thinking about hooking up batteries in series doubling voltage, could it work with thermopiles? I gave it a shot and hooked two 750mV thermopiles in series and stacked them in pilot flame until my multimeter gave highest voltage. Works like a champ!! I have 1300mV idle and it drops down to an acceptable 700mV when gas valve opened loading the electrical system. Keep in mind that this does not affect safety in that should the flame go out the pilot thermocouple and the main gas valve thermopile voltage will drop to zero and the valve will not open. Just sharing what worked for me.
I, too, had an issue with the wall thermostat intermittently operating the thermopile powered gas log set. The 18 gauge thermostat wire run is about 25' which is a long run for a 750mV thermopile. I replaced thermopile and it did fine for a while. Checked various sites for TESTING with a 1.5volt battery and the valve opened every single time. DO NOT leave it hooked up like that as all safety devices are defeated. Got me thinking about hooking up batteries in series doubling voltage, could it work with thermopiles? I gave it a shot and hooked two 750mV thermopiles in series and stacked them in pilot flame until my multimeter gave highest voltage. Works like a champ!! I have 1300mV idle and it drops down to an acceptable 700mV when gas valve opened loading the electrical system. Keep in mind that this does not affect safety in that should the flame go out the pilot thermocouple and the main gas valve thermopile voltage will drop to zero and the valve will not open. Just sharing what worked for me.
ljsho...@gmail.com
Dec 18, 2018, 11:17:52 PM12/18/18
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On Wednesday, December 24, 2008 at 6:34:23 PM UTC-6, fun...@gmail.com wrote:
> Hello all -
>
> first post on this forum, so please excuse any newbie errors...
>
> I have a gas fireplace at home that I haven't used in a couple of
> years. I had turned the pilot off after I used it last. I tried to
> start it back up yesterday, and the pilot started right up. I have a
> wall switch that controls the gas flow and turns the fireplace on.
> When I try to flip the switch to turn the fireplace on, it does
> nothing 9 times out of 10. Occassionally the flames will come and
> stay lit for a couple of minutes before going out again, and then
> nothing. I don't smell any gas when the fireplace switch is on but
> the flame isn't present. Not sure where to look to try and debug this
> issue... any helpful pointers would be greatly appreciated!
>
> Merry Christmas!
I DIDN'T READ THROUGH ALL OF THE POSTS BUT WANTED TO SHARE THAT AFTER CLEANING EVERYTHING AND GETTING NO START-- I TACKLED THE WALL SWITCH-- THAT DID THE TRICK!
> Hello all -
>
> first post on this forum, so please excuse any newbie errors...
>
> I have a gas fireplace at home that I haven't used in a couple of
> years. I had turned the pilot off after I used it last. I tried to
> start it back up yesterday, and the pilot started right up. I have a
> wall switch that controls the gas flow and turns the fireplace on.
> When I try to flip the switch to turn the fireplace on, it does
> nothing 9 times out of 10. Occassionally the flames will come and
> stay lit for a couple of minutes before going out again, and then
> nothing. I don't smell any gas when the fireplace switch is on but
> the flame isn't present. Not sure where to look to try and debug this
> issue... any helpful pointers would be greatly appreciated!
>
> Merry Christmas!
Mike
Jan 2, 2019, 12:44:09 AM1/2/19
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replying to Lorna, Mike wrote:
Make sure that the knob on the bottom is switched to “On” if the pilot
light is working. The “On” portion of the knob should be at the bottom.
Make sure that the knob on the bottom is switched to “On” if the pilot
light is working. The “On” portion of the knob should be at the bottom.
annean...@gmail.com
Jan 5, 2019, 3:06:49 PM1/5/19
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What is the problem
Oren
Jan 5, 2019, 7:20:20 PM1/5/19
to
On Sat, 5 Jan 2019 12:06:46 -0800 (PST), annean...@gmail.com
wrote:
>What is the problem
The subject line suggests the gas fireplace won't start. What do you
think? Any idea as to the problem...
wrote:
>What is the problem
The subject line suggests the gas fireplace won't start. What do you
think? Any idea as to the problem...
trader_4
Jan 7, 2019, 9:37:21 AM1/7/19
to
new, expensive LG dryer. We went to HD to get the necessary fittings.
After installing it, it would not light. We wound up making a warranty
claim. The service guy came and guess what it turned out to be?
A nickle or dime, I forget which, was inside the valve or fitting we
bought! Someone had done it as a prank at HD and we never thought to
look inside for an obstruction.
gbmid...@gmail.com
Jul 25, 2019, 1:47:45 PM7/25/19
to
I did this as well. The battery gave the little extra MV boost and mine started working great.
Gary Bennett
Nov 26, 2019, 5:47:46 PM11/26/19
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gtbe...@warp.nfld.net
Nov 26, 2019, 5:58:15 PM11/26/19
to
I have checked all the recommended voltages and they are all within spec.
My problem is intermittent.
Pilot is lit and bright, but no flame when the thermostadt is on.
Normally I here a small click from the fireplace when the thermostadt is turned up, but nothing when it does not light.
Also, for some reason, pushing and holding the ignighter in for several seconds often turns the flame on ??
And shorting the terminals with a paper clip also turns it on.
I have read that resistance can build up within the system but I'm unsure if that means in the wiring and thermostadt or the gas line ?
Any Ideas??
Thanks
Gary
Scott Lurndal
Nov 26, 2019, 6:32:44 PM11/26/19
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enough juice to open the gas valve.
cnewt...@yahoo.com
Feb 14, 2020, 6:36:33 PM2/14/20
to
I have a gas fireplace that won't come on. The pilot light is lit & stays on but it never comes on. I've changed the thermocouple & it still won't come on.
Ed Pawlowski
Feb 14, 2020, 7:41:33 PM2/14/20
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On 2/14/2020 6:36 PM, cnewt...@yahoo.com wrote:
> I have a gas fireplace that won't come on. The pilot light is lit & stays on but it never comes on. I've changed the thermocouple & it still won't come on.
>
Could be the gas valve solenoid not opening. Check to see if it is
> I have a gas fireplace that won't come on. The pilot light is lit & stays on but it never comes on. I've changed the thermocouple & it still won't come on.
>
getting voltage.
kjs...@gmail.com
Feb 26, 2020, 5:25:01 PM2/26/20
to
Pilot is lit ,new thermopile and thermocoupler. Paperclip jump doesn't work , smell gas in on position. Any ideas thanks.
Ivan Tseng
Mar 26, 2021, 8:59:11 PM3/26/21
to
My fireplace pilot light worked but I could not turn it on. I was all ready to call for service and this thread motivated me to give fixing it a try/ I did the paperclip jump and it worked so I then went to the switch and connected the wires together and the fireplace also started. It turned out to be a defective light switch. New switch and all fixed. Thanks to all for your suggestions!
Tekkie©
Mar 29, 2021, 3:28:12 PM3/29/21
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On Fri, 26 Mar 2021 17:59:08 -0700 (PDT), Ivan Tseng posted for all of us to
digest...
>
> My fireplace pilot light worked but I could not turn it on. I was all ready to call for service and this thread motivated me to give fixing it a try/ I did the paperclip jump and it worked so I then went to the switch and connected the wires together and the fireplace also started. It turned out to be a defective light switch. >
New switch and all fixed. Thanks to all for your suggestions!
--
Tekkie
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