What 36" Ridgid pipe wrench to keep, AL vs. Iron
Ignoramus23641
One is steel and another is aluminum.
I want to keep one and sell another. My question is which one is
better. Aluminum one is a lot lighter, but is it as strong? Or does it
matter?
I am not a plumber, but once in a while I need to turn something that
does not want to turn, like a stuck engine etc. This is my use.
i
anorton
"Ignoramus23641" <ignoram...@NOSPAM.23641.invalid> wrote in message
news:SqSdnfjg7bBwSoDT...@giganews.com...
I am just an amateur home plumber too, but I do see that the aluminum
wrenches command higher prices. They are a lot easier to lug around. I
doubt you would ever be able to break or bend either.
I would mention that if you are actually working on pipes, you often want
two similar wrenches to apply opposite torques on either side of the joint.
Otherwise something might come undone that was not supposed to. That said,
you would have to have some pretty big iron pipes to really take advantage
of these.
rangerssuck
a) you'll get more money for the Al wrench, and seeing as how you're
not lugging it all over the place every day, the extra weight of the
iron wrench shouldn't be a problem. The Al wrench is plenty strong.
b) If it was me, I'd keep both. I did a minor change to the steam
heating pipes in my house and thought I'd be OK with one 24" and one
36" wrench. I would have been way better off with a pair of 36"
wrenches.
rangerssuck
wrote:
> "Ignoramus23641" <ignoramus23...@NOSPAM.23641.invalid> wrote in message
I agree with everything you said except the last item. Getting 1 1/2"
iron steam pipe unstuck would simply not have happened if I had a
wrench shhorter than 36". If I ever have to do this again, I would
consider renting a pair of 48" wrenches.
Joe
Keep the aluminum one. Less likely to get you in trouble, plus, you
aren't getting any younger...<G>
Joe
Vic Smith
<range...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>I agree with everything you said except the last item. Getting 1 1/2"
>iron steam pipe unstuck would simply not have happened if I had a
>wrench shhorter than 36". If I ever have to do this again, I would
>consider renting a pair of 48" wrenches.
I used a 36" on a 4" heating system header with no real problem.
After I put a 6' cheater pipe on it, making it about a 96".
--Vic
Karl Townsend
<range...@gmail.com> wrote:
I have a pair of 36" wrenches. One is bent like a banana. Had
something to do with the eight foot pipe I used for a cheater bar.
Karl
HeyBub
Hmm.
If subject to too much torque, the aluminum wrench will bend, the iron
wrench will break. "Too much" is probably greater for the cast iron wrench.
How much greater, I know not, nor whether it matters in the real world.
Too_Many_Tools
wrote:
>
> - Show quoted text -
REAL MEN use a tractor as the cheater bar. ;<)
TMT
Too_Many_Tools
23641.invalid> wrote:
I would also suggest making some cheater bars out of pipe when you get
the chance...sometime in the future you WILL use them.
Remember me when those bars make that impossible job possible. ;<)
TMT
Too_Many_Tools
wrote:
> "Ignoramus23641" <ignoramus23...@NOSPAM.23641.invalid> wrote in message
Ig...I would keep both wrenches.
If you REALLY need to sell one..the Aluminum one is worth more.
But I would wait until you find another 36" steel one to replace it.
Just last week I reached for my set of BIG pipe wrenches...the job
would never have gotten done in time if they had not been waiting for
me to use them.
Big hammers, big wrenches and lifting devices like jacks are items
that I always carry on hand...when they are needed, nothing else does
the job better.
TMT
Ignoramus23641
> On Jul 13, 1:37?pm, Ignoramus23641 <ignoramus23...@NOSPAM.
> 23641.invalid> wrote:
>> I have two of these 36" Ridgid pipe wrenches:
>>
>>
>> One is steel and another is aluminum.
>>
>> I want to keep one and sell another. My question is which one is
>> better. Aluminum one is a lot lighter, but is it as strong? Or does it
>> matter?
>>
>> I am not a plumber, but once in a while I need to turn something that
>> does not want to turn, like a stuck engine etc. This is my use.
>>
>> i
>
> a) you'll get more money for the Al wrench, and seeing as how you're
> not lugging it all over the place every day, the extra weight of the
> iron wrench shouldn't be a problem. The Al wrench is plenty strong.
>
> b) If it was me, I'd keep both. I did a minor change to the steam
> heating pipes in my house and thought I'd be OK with one 24" and one
> 36" wrench. I would have been way better off with a pair of 36"
> wrenches.
>
Thanks. I have a 14", 24", and now I have a 36" one. I think that I
will be OK with just one 36 incher.
i
dpb
...
> Thanks. I have a 14", 24", and now I have a 36" one. I think that I
> will be OK with just one 36 incher.
I can't count otomh them, but if you don't want it, send it here; I'll
find a time it will undoubtedly be used....
--
sta...@prolynx.com
If I had to only have one, it'd be the aluminum one, just because of
the weight. But you really need two if you're doing plumbing, you
HAVE to have a backing wrench unless you like twisting fittings off.
For barring stuff over where I've got a huge nut or flats, I've got a
wagon nut wrench, similar to a monkey wrench. Doesn't leave divots
like a pipe wrench will. You'll see them at farm auctions, they
usually go for little or nothing in a bucket with similar tools. A
crescent wrench kind of does the same job, but the wagon nut wrench is
a lot heftier and not so prone to shift size by itself.
Stan
Larry W
did manage on 2 occasions to break a 48 inch Ridgid aluminum pipe wrench but
never a steel wrench. In fairness, we had 3 guys pulling on the wrench with
a 12 foot cheater bar when it broke. Most of the time the same 3 guys and
12 foot cheater just got the job done without incident, regardless of
whether we were using a steel or aluminum wrench.
FWIW, I doubt a single person could break a 36 inch aluminum wrench
by himself without resorting to extreme measures. Also FWIW, for home
owner use, I've never had to use a pipe wrench larger than a 24". (Though
there were a few times I wished I had a bigger one!)
--
The best argument against democracy is a five-minute conversation
with the average voter. (Winston Churchill)
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
David Lesher
>I agree with everything you said except the last item. Getting 1 1/2"
>iron steam pipe unstuck would simply not have happened if I had a
>wrench shhorter than 36". If I ever have to do this again, I would
>consider renting a pair of 48" wrenches.
We had 48" wrenches on the pipeline, aluminum ones.
Two guys and another if you're using the 6' cheater....
--
A host is a host from coast to coast.................wb8foz@nrk.com
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433
Larry W
HeyBub <hey...@NOSPAMgmail.com> wrote:
<...snipped...>
>Hmm.
>
>If subject to too much torque, the aluminum wrench will bend, the iron
>wrench will break. "Too much" is probably greater for the cast iron wrench.
>How much greater, I know not, nor whether it matters in the real world.
>
>
Your conjecture seems logical but real-world experience is the opposite.
The aluminum wrenches will break, the "iron" ones will bend. We commonly
call them "iron" but I believe they are actually forged steel. Possibly
malleable or ductile cast iron would make a passable wrench, but not
common cast iron. Especially for a pipe wrench, one of the most-abused tools
there is. Cheater bars, slugging the handle with a hammer,(or another
pipe wrench!) pulling handle with a come-a-long, etc. I've seen plenty
of them bend, but few break. The aluminum wrenches will break far
more readily.
Fatter Than Ever Moe
I'm thinking if you are going to swing it at someone, the aluminum
one would be better. Less inertia but a heavy enough end to get the
job done.
Ignoramus23641
> In article <_ZadnUBi7OXOboDT...@earthlink.com>,
> HeyBub <hey...@NOSPAMgmail.com> wrote:
><...snipped...>
>>Hmm.
>>
>>If subject to too much torque, the aluminum wrench will bend, the iron
>>wrench will break. "Too much" is probably greater for the cast iron wrench.
>>How much greater, I know not, nor whether it matters in the real world.
>>
>>
>
> Your conjecture seems logical but real-world experience is the opposite.
> The aluminum wrenches will break, the "iron" ones will bend. We commonly
> call them "iron" but I believe they are actually forged steel. Possibly
> malleable or ductile cast iron would make a passable wrench, but not
> common cast iron. Especially for a pipe wrench, one of the most-abused tools
> there is. Cheater bars, slugging the handle with a hammer,(or another
> pipe wrench!) pulling handle with a come-a-long, etc. I've seen plenty
> of them bend, but few break. The aluminum wrenches will break far
> more readily.
I believe that the iron ones are ductile cast iron. They do bend. My
iron one is slightly bent.
i
Ed Pawlowski
"Ignoramus23641" <ignoram...@NOSPAM.23641.invalid> wrote in message
news:SqSdnfjg7bBwSoDT...@giganews.com...
I'd keep the aluminum. So much easier to lug a round where you are working,
etc.
PrecisionmachinisT
"Ignoramus23641" <ignoram...@NOSPAM.23641.invalid> wrote in message
news:SqSdnfjg7bBwSoDT...@giganews.com...
Who gives a shit unless they have to pack it around with them from job site
to job site.
Here's the deal...pipe wrench jaws DO wear out over time and they get dull
and then they slip, eventually you throw either them away or you buy new
jaws for them if they're available.
--so, my advice is that since they are both made by Ridgid would be to just
keep the one whose jaws aren't already all fucked up and sell the other one.
That said, sometimes you actually DO need two LARGE pipe wrenches to do a
job--I know this because it has personally happened exactly twice during my
lifetime....
John Gilmer
>
> I am just an amateur home plumber too, but I do see that the aluminum
> wrenches command higher prices. They are a lot easier to lug around. I
> doubt you would ever be able to break or bend either.
Maybe so; maybe no.
If a pipe wrench isn't quite long enough, folks find a section of
galvanized pipe to increase the leverage.
Reasonable qualify steel is stronger that most aluminum.
If you don't use either tool routinely the weight doesn't make much
difference. Were I the OP, I would "sell" the aluminum wrench; it
would likely fetch more money and the steel wrench would likely tolerate
abuse like using a galvanized pipe to increase the leverage.
DoN. Nichols
Which suggests that the ferrous one would be preferred to the
aluminum one if you are going to put that big a cheater pipe on it.
Enjoy,
DoN.
--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: <BPdnic...@d-and-d.com> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
Gerald Miller
Once, about 50 years ago, I found a need to use three pipe wrenches on
a single length of pipe. I set them up in tripod formation to act as a
pipe vise which was not available.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada
Ignoramus23641
Besides the wrenches, I brought home a big box with a bunch of Ridgid
parts, and specifically brand new movable jaws and heels. The ones I
have are for 14 inch and 24 inch pipe wrenches.
After looking at all my wrenches, and cleaning the jaws of the 36
inchers, I have decided that all their jaws are in a serviceable
condition, and do not warrant replacement.
(I also have a shipload of Rigid threading die replacementss).
i
HeyBub
> In article <_ZadnUBi7OXOboDT...@earthlink.com>,
> HeyBub <hey...@NOSPAMgmail.com> wrote:
> <...snipped...>
>> Hmm.
>>
>> If subject to too much torque, the aluminum wrench will bend, the
>> iron wrench will break. "Too much" is probably greater for the cast
>> iron wrench. How much greater, I know not, nor whether it matters in
>> the real world.
>>
>>
>
> Your conjecture seems logical but real-world experience is the
> opposite. The aluminum wrenches will break, the "iron" ones will
> bend. We commonly call them "iron" but I believe they are actually
> forged steel. Possibly malleable or ductile cast iron would make a
> passable wrench, but not
> common cast iron. Especially for a pipe wrench, one of the
> most-abused tools there is. Cheater bars, slugging the handle with a
> hammer,(or another
> pipe wrench!) pulling handle with a come-a-long, etc. I've seen plenty
> of them bend, but few break. The aluminum wrenches will break far
> more readily.
I didn't know that. Thanks for the correction.
Bob La Londe
news:SqSdnfjg7bBwSoDT...@giganews.com...
> I have two of these 36" Ridgid pipe wrenches:
>
> http://goo.gl/ZOm4N
>
> One is steel and another is aluminum.
>
> I want to keep one and sell another. My question is which one is
> better. Aluminum one is a lot lighter, but is it as strong? Or does it
> matter?
>
> I am not a plumber, but once in a while I need to turn something that
> does not want to turn, like a stuck engine etc. This is my use.
>
I have both aluminum and steel wrenches. For direct hand power only I
prefer the aluminum. If I need to add a 6-8 foot cheater bar like to turn
an axle on a stuck moss in a cotton gin I would go with the steel hands
down. For plumbing around the house I always reach for the aluminum ones.
P.S. Anybody besides me ever try to unstick a stuck moss during a cotton
fire to get the burning material out and save the screens?
Too_Many_Tools
<precisionmachin...@notmail.com> wrote:
> "Ignoramus23641" <ignoramus23...@NOSPAM.23641.invalid> wrote in message
I have a set of smooth jaws for my larger wrenches that are used when
I want to minimize damage to the item being adjusted.
TMT
Steve B
"Ignoramus23641" <ignoram...@NOSPAM.23641.invalid> wrote in message
>I have two of these 36" Ridgid pipe wrenches:
>
> http://goo.gl/ZOm4N
>
> One is steel and another is aluminum.
>
> I want to keep one and sell another. My question is which one is
> better. Aluminum one is a lot lighter, but is it as strong? Or does it
> matter?
>
> I am not a plumber, but once in a while I need to turn something that
> does not want to turn, like a stuck engine etc. This is my use.
>
You already know the answer to this, you just don't know you
know..............
Look at both of them. Which one looks the best?
Keep that one.
If it is Ridgid, that is like keeping a Starrett tool. It's a no brainer.
And keep in mind in the future for that ONE time when you will actually need
two 36" wrenches, and it will pay for all the time it has sat in the
corner........... For a lot of years, I had a 36" Crescent wrench I got
from my Dad. It got lots of comments regarding overkill, but when you
needed it, nothing else would do.
Unless you are a plumber reefing on pipes all day, even the cheap Chinese
stuff will work. But if you can get a deal on a quality tool, that's good,
too.
Just a thought from my humble experiences.
Steve
Heart surgery pending?
www.heartsurgerysurvivalguide.com
Heart Surgery Survival Guide
Karl Townsend
Closest i came is a fire in a large round hay baler. Tried to save the
baler and lost it. Did manage to disconnect and save the tractor. Went
on to lose 35 acres of wind rowed and large hay bales.
That was 40 years ago. I still carry a 100# inverted LP tank filled
with water and compressed air with a water hose and nozzle when ever
using any machine processing dry hay/straw.
Karl
Gunner Asch
<onebi...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>"Ignoramus23641" <ignoram...@NOSPAM.23641.invalid> wrote in message
>news:SqSdnfjg7bBwSoDT...@giganews.com...
>> I have two of these 36" Ridgid pipe wrenches:
>>
>> http://goo.gl/ZOm4N
>>
>> One is steel and another is aluminum.
>>
>> I want to keep one and sell another. My question is which one is
>> better. Aluminum one is a lot lighter, but is it as strong? Or does it
>> matter?
>>
>> I am not a plumber, but once in a while I need to turn something that
>> does not want to turn, like a stuck engine etc. This is my use.
>>
>> I
>
>
>I have both aluminum and steel wrenches. For direct hand power only I
>prefer the aluminum. If I need to add a 6-8 foot cheater bar like to turn
>an axle on a stuck moss in a cotton gin I would go with the steel hands
>down. For plumbing around the house I always reach for the aluminum ones.
I agree. And I live and have worked in the oil fields
>
>P.S. Anybody besides me ever try to unstick a stuck moss during a cotton
>fire to get the burning material out and save the screens?
>
>
>
Whenever a Liberal utters the term "Common Sense approach"....grab your
wallet, your ass, and your guns because the sombitch is about to do
something damned nasty to all three of them.
D.A. Tsenuf
news:ko6027p9aoehrcqqi...@4ax.com...
>
> That was 40 years ago. I still carry a 100# inverted LP tank filled
> with water and compressed air with a water hose and nozzle when ever
> using any machine processing dry hay/straw.
>
Would one of those pressure tanks for wells work better ?
Just charge it up close attached (by you) faucet and you're ready to go.
HeyBub
There are no faucets in the middle of a hay field.
There are often rabbits. Perhaps that was what you were thinking about?
D.A. Tsenuf
news:OvSdnZZDetuFPr3T...@earthlink.com...
<sigh>
1) Install a garden hose faucet on the pressure tank
2) Connect to faucet house on house system
3) Charge tank
4) Disconnect from house system,
When water is needed open faucet on tank..
(Pressure in tank will make water come out...)
Steve B
"D.A. Tsenuf" <DATs...@Hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:lPWdnRDgGctaOrnT...@bright.net...
Think about it. If you put ONLY water in the tank, AND USING WATER ONLY TO
PRESSURIZE THE TANK, what kind of pressure would you then have to add that
would make all the water come out when needed? Remember, water is not
compressible. If I figure it right, either very little pressure could be
added to the tank to make the water flow out, and not even the contents of
the tank would dump entirely, or the tank would rupture under the pressure.
Now, take the same tank. Fill it 80% full of water. Add air to the tank's
airspace. What pressure would you have to add to make all the water flow
out driven by the air? Any math hounds here that can say? I'd say that it
would be a very low amount of pressure to empty the tank, and more pressure
if you wanted to spray with authority.
My point is that the GAS is the important part of the equation, and the
second poster seems to be saying it is the water that is charging the tank.
I say it is the compressed air.
Class?
Class?
Steve
D.A. Tsenuf
news:zh7Vp.76123$Ah1....@news.usenetserver.com...
<sigh>
So you don't even know what a "pressure tank", used in a well system is ?
Why don't you look it up and then come back to us...
(what a maroon)...
Steve B
"D.A. Tsenuf" <DATs...@Hotmail.com> wrote
> So you don't even know what a "pressure tank", used in a well system is ?
> Why don't you look it up and then come back to us...
>
>
> (what a maroon)...
Well, I always thought that in order for a pressure tank to work, there had
to be some room for the pressure. Since most liquids are not compressible,
that would require an airspace or a tank that expands, at least according to
my thinking. IIRC, a lot of tanks have bladders or airspaces. I do know
that air hammer reliefs are common to deal with air in water systems.
You have also gotten way away from the original topic, that being of how to
pressurize a tank for remote use. You say that you can just put pressure in
there with no air space. I say that the tank would burst before it could
hold enough pressure to even void itself of its contents.
Perhaps you could share some of your infinite knowledge, providing you are
educated enough to put your thoughts into words so that we of the unwashed
rabble might read them and ponder your take on this. OR, you could quote
this entire conversation with no snippage, just scores of lines of
discussion with a two sentence reply that offers no information whatsoever
on the original question, indicating either a lack of knowledge of the
subject, or a lack of knowledge of how to conduct a social conversation.
Your pick, Sparky.
Now, I could be entirely wrong. And I would much rather hear you explaining
why I am wrong, and what the correct answer is than using insults or words
that I do not comprehend.
What is a maroon? I mean, I know it is an adjective to describe color, but
I have not seen it used as a noun. Maybe you will get to that in next
year's English, provided you take another year of English.
You may (or may not) notice above that is what I have done in answer to your
adolescent response to my request for clarification of this concept. You
will notice I am asking for other's opinions, a common thing for intelligent
sensible educated people to do. I was also asking for more information, and
an explanation.
Steve
Gunner Asch
I wonder if the poor bastard knows that water is for the most part...
uncompressable?
Which is why there is an air space or membrane in those tanks being
discussed? One doesnt compress the water..one compresses the air..which
pushes the water out.
Gunner
--
Maxim 12: A soft answer turneth away wrath.
Once wrath is looking the other way, shoot it in the head.
dpb
> "D.A. Tsenuf"<DATs...@Hotmail.com> wrote
>
>> So you don't even know what a "pressure tank", used in a well system is ?
>> Why don't you look it up and then come back to us...
>>
>>
>> (what a maroon)...
>
> Well, I always thought that in order for a pressure tank to work, there had
Well, I've been on the sidelines but I read the original suggestion to
use a pressure tank as exactly that--a charged pressure tank free from
the piping system. One would _presume_ he intended charging the water
side, yes, leaving the air side alone...
I would also tend to presume that's why the suggestion of it might work
better than the simple tank charge used in the posting to which he
responded.
OBTW, the (what a maroon) comes from one of the old, old cartoons--I
forget which character/strip now, but that's the reference...
--
John R. Carroll
> On 7/19/2011 6:49 AM, Steve B wrote:
>> "D.A. Tsenuf"<DATs...@Hotmail.com> wrote
>>
> forget which character/strip now, but that's the reference...
Foghorn Leghorn.
--
John R. Carroll
Steve B
>
> "D.A. Tsenuf" <DATs...@Hotmail.com> wrote
>
>> So you don't even know what a "pressure tank", used in a well system is ?
>> Why don't you look it up and then come back to us...
>>
>>
>> (what a maroon)...
Well, I googled "how a well pressure tank works", and came up on the first
hit with, " The well pressure tank system works under the principle of gases
can be compressed while liquids cannot. As water fills the tank, ..."
http://www.catskillhouse.us/blog/well-pressure-tank/
Now what do I do?
BTW, a google for maroon shows a color, or a race of dark skinned mountain
people. Were you making a racial slur?
Steve
Steve B
"Gunner Asch" <gunne...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:hmsa27hkmsldi8av3...@4ax.com...
Well, not according to THIS maroon.
hehe
Steve
D.A. Tsenuf
Bugs Bunny is the reference to "maroon"...
As to pressure tanks, they are precharged with a bladder.
When water is pumped in the bladder compresses the "pre-charged" air side.
When the water is release the pressure from behind the bladder pushes the
water out.
Eliminates the need to pump air into a simple tank
Can be had an most hardware and farm supply stores in a variety of sizes.
All you do is pump water in.
Steve B
As I read his post, he seemed to be saying that one could just fill up a
tank with pressure, and then empty it when needed. He mentioned nothing of
any air space. And since a lot of systems only have 50 psi water pressure,
the airspace in there might not be enough to even void the contents of said
container unless the airspace is adequate.
Maroon (people)
Maroons (from the word marronage or American/Spanish cimarrón: "fugitive,
runaway", lit. "living on mountaintops"; from Spanish cima: "top, summit")
were runaway slaves in the West Indies, Central America, South America, and
North America, who formed independent settlements together. The same
designation has also become a derivation for the verb marooning.
Much more to read about them and their history at Wikipedia. However, I do
not believe the poster was referring to this group of people, calling me a
"maroon." I really just think he/she/it could not spell "moron."
Anyway, I seem to be somewhat right on the original point of an air space in
a pressure tank.
Steve
Jim Elbrecht
D.A. Tsenuf
>
> "D.A. Tsenuf" <DATs...@Hotmail.com> wrote
>
>> So you don't even know what a "pressure tank", used in a well system is ?
>> Why don't you look it up and then come back to us...
>>
>>
>> (what a maroon)...
>
> Well, I always thought that in order for a pressure tank to work, there
> had to be some room for the pressure. Since most liquids are not
> compressible, that would require an airspace or a tank that expands, at
> least according to my thinking. IIRC, a lot of tanks have bladders or
> airspaces. I do know that air hammer reliefs are common to deal with air
> in water systems.
>
Well there you go
You actually knew the answer all along.
So why spew so much ignorant cant ?
> You have also gotten way away from the original topic, that being of how
> to pressurize a tank for remote use. You say that you can just put
> pressure in there with no air space. I say that the tank would burst
> before it could hold enough pressure to even void itself of its contents.
>
A pressure tank is pre-charged with a bladder separating the wet from the
air side.
I never stated ANYTHING about air space and the rest of your presumptions
> Perhaps you could share some of your infinite knowledge, providing you are
> educated enough to put your thoughts into words so that we of the unwashed
> > rabble might read them and ponder your take on this. OR, you could
> quote this entire conversation with no snippage, just scores of lines of
> discussion with a two sentence reply that offers no information whatsoever
> on the original question, indicating either a lack of knowledge of the
> subject, or a lack of knowledge of how to conduct a social conversation.
> Your pick, Sparky.
>
I may be a Sparky, but then even a wet match qualifies compared to you.
I am so sorry that you have not discovered to wonders of search engines on
the internet
Why don't you try your faverite one with the following
"precharged pressure tank".
Hell, even just plain "pressure tank" will point you in the right direction.
> Now, I could be entirely wrong. And I would much rather hear you
> explaining why I am wrong, and what the correct answer is than using
> insults or words that I do not comprehend.
>
I'm so sorry that words like "pressure tank" are beyond your (claimed) ken.
> What is a maroon? I mean, I know it is an adjective to describe color,
> but I have not seen it used as a noun. Maybe you will get to that in next
> year's English, provided you take another year of English.
>
It's a reference to a quote by a famous cartoon character
As to my education in the Queen's English, it's probably more extensive than
yours.
> You may (or may not) notice above that is what I have done in answer to
> your adolescent response to my request for clarification of this concept.
> You will notice I am asking for other's opinions, a common thing for
> intelligent sensible educated people to do. I was also asking for more
> information, and an explanation.
>
You sure use lots of words to state and demonstrate that you're clueless
As to wanting an explanation. That's highly doubtful
People who want info state their problem and then let others do the talking
The exact opposite of what you have done.
Have a nice day.
Oh and thanks for demonstrating that you do qualify for that quote by Bugs
Bunny
"What a maroon" indeed...
D.A. Tsenuf
There are two ways to charge a tank
Either by having a 2 compartment tank, one wet, one dry separated by a
membrane
The other is the seltzer water approach, where the gas is compressed in
solution with the water.
Either way works
The first only requires that you pump the water in the tank.
The second requires that you fill the tank and then pump it full of some gas
The first is simpler because you can do it with a standard water system.
dpb
...
> As I read his post, he seemed to be saying that one could just fill up a
> tank with pressure, and then empty it when needed. He mentioned nothing of
> any air space. And since a lot of systems only have 50 psi water pressure,
> the airspace in there might not be enough to even void the contents of said
> container unless the airspace is adequate.
Well, I'll only reply that by referring to "pressure tank" to me it was
quite clear he was referring to a standard well-system diaphragm/bladder
tank that _does_ have (precharged) air space and by calling it a
pressure tank the reference to the airspace is implicit w/o needing to
be explicitly referred to.
As for the content voiding, as long as the pressure is above ambient,
the water will have a positive pressure and be voided, albeit if only
slowly.
With the above presume 50psi, it would start at that and fall almost
directly in proportion to the voided volume (at these pressures, not
much variance from ideal gas) change. So, the smaller the air volume
relative to the contained water, yes, the faster the pressure will drop
to near ambient (or whatever was the precharge pressure if greater than
atmospheric.
Whatever, my take is you're off base in criticism of the poster as being
unaware of what is going on...
...
> Much more to read about them and their history at Wikipedia. However, I do
> not believe the poster was referring to this group of people, calling me a
> "maroon." I really just think he/she/it could not spell "moron."
Well, I think you're missing the intent there, too... :)
> Anyway, I seem to be somewhat right on the original point of an air space in
> a pressure tank.
...
Well, yes...your problem w/ the other poster is that he (imo, somewhat
rightfully) took a little peeve at being poked w/ a sharp stick for
little reason...
--
D.A. Tsenuf
news:lq0b2750nr9qumfv9...@4ax.com...
I forgot that one..
When my daughter was very small, she converted "educational" to
edunucational".
That term has now morphed into meaning less than quality education, more
show than quality.
Very much like the unintended results of "No Child Left Behind" where
schools are teaching to the tests because the fear the bureaucratic
consequences of not meeting the "test" standards
The Atlanta School Board also appears to have been providing "edunucation"
with all the cheating on the tests that was rampant in the system
Steve B
"D.A. Tsenuf" <DATs...@Hotmail.com> wrote in message
I rest my case. If you follow back, you will find it was YOU who said I
needed to google up the information. When I did, you did a 180. You were
the writer who seemed to think a tank could be filled with enough water to
spray by itself with no airspace.
Stupid is as stupid writes.
You may go now.
Steve
D.A. Tsenuf
Now where did I make ANY comment about a tank that could
" spray by itself with no airspace."
Oh wait, I made no such statements..
That was YOU making a stupid assumption
I am in NO WAY responsible for YOUR stupid presumptions and assumptions
> Stupid is as stupid writes.
>
Yes indeed
One has to wonder why you need to do so over and over. Not to mention
continue when your nonsense has been brought to light..
> You may go now.
>
> Steve
Thank you for proving that you're not only stupid but arrogant too.
Makes me think of that Bertrand Russel's saying about the ignorant...
jim
Here is what he wrote:
"Would one of those pressure tanks for wells work better ?
Just charge it up close attached (by you) faucet and
you're ready to go."
You have made it clear that
you fail to understand how that works.
That came through clear in your first reply
No need need to repeat
Vic Smith
<DATs...@Hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>Now where did I make ANY comment about a tank that could
> " spray by itself with no airspace."
>
>Oh wait, I made no such statements..
> That was YOU making a stupid assumption
>
The problem here is the OP didn't know about the bladdered tanks used
in well water systems.
I didn't either since I've never encountered them.
Anyway, a suitable fire extinguisher is probably more practical to put
out cotton fires.
Anybody care to hear my "big wrench" story?
The wrench weighed about 500 pounds.
Slugging wrench of course.
--Vic
Bob La Londe
A household type well pressure tank has a bladder in it. You put water in
which compresses the air behind the bladder. Its ideally suited for holding
water and delivering it as thousands of average people are capable of using
them to problem free for years on end to provide water to their homes from
their private well. While the OP was not particularly nice about it, a
pressure tank would work admirable well for this applications I suspect.
You can buy them from places like Home Depot for a few hundred dollars.
Pressure tanks are available in steel and fiberglass. There are also older
style deliver tanks which did not use a bladder, but air in the system was
still required at a certain point. In both types well head pressure from
the well pump is adequate to charge the system. In addition their our
gravity systems. This is required for low pressure pumps like wind wills
which lift rather than pump water. My dad is a certified water system
operator and more than once I was out in the middle of the night with him
helping to bleed the main water tank (non bladder type) when it got too much
air in the main tank for the subdivision where we lived. (Usually after a
storm induced power failure)
Ideally a bulk tank with a pump is used in remote application for delivering
volumes of water. Fire departments often have a tanker, but it is not a
pressurized system. For road departments with a "water truck" style tanker
that have to wet down dirt and gravel roads often gravity feed is adequate
pressure.
The main idea behind a well storage tank is that there is a range of
storage/pressure. This way the well pump does not kick on and off every
time somebody flushes a toilet or turns on a faucet for a few seconds.
Instead the excess water and pressure is delivered from the pressure tank
and the well pump can kick on less often and run continuously for a longer
period when it does. The pump motors tend to last significantly longer this
way.
Steve B
"jim" <"sjedgingN0Sp"@m...@mwt.net> wrote
> Here is what he wrote:
>
> "Would one of those pressure tanks for wells work better ?
> Just charge it up close attached (by you) faucet and
> you're ready to go."
>
> You have made it clear that
> you fail to understand how that works.
> That came through clear in your first reply
> No need need to repeat
Who wrote?
Did he write the first paragraph, the second, or both? Or neither?
Now I am really puzzled.
Stormin Mormon
tense would be "he was marooned on an island".
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Steve B" <pittma...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:imfVp.40694$NY4....@news.usenetserver.com...
jim
Do you plan to follow your dozen messages revealing
your ignorance of well pressure tanks with
a dozen messages revealing your ignorance of what
quotation marks mean?
Oren
<cayoung61**spamblock##@hotmail.com> wrote:
>Maroon, as in "left behind on a desert island". Verb. Past
>tense would be "he was marooned on an island".
The Mojave Desert has no islands.
What a maroon...
Gunner Asch
>
>OBTW, the (what a maroon) comes from one of the old, old cartoons--I
>forget which character/strip now, but that's the reference...
>
>--
It was one of Bugs Bunny's favorite sayings.
I was always a big fan of Bugs vrs The Martian.
<VBG>
Gunner, owner of Coyote Engineering....(VBG)
Steve B
"jim" <"sjedgingN0Sp"@m@mwt,net> wrote in message
news:lLadnRW6pKGMW7jT...@bright.net...
I love it when people can not answer the questions.
Steve
jim
Steve B wrote:
>
> "jim" <"sjedgingN0Sp"@m@mwt,net> wrote in message
> news:lLadnRW6pKGMW7jT...@bright.net...
> >
> >
> > Steve B wrote:
> >>
> >> "jim" <"sjedgingN0Sp"@m...@mwt.net> wrote
> >>
> >> > Here is what he wrote:
> >> >
> >> > "Would one of those pressure tanks for wells work better ?
> >> > Just charge it up close attached (by you) faucet and
> >> > you're ready to go."
> >> >
> >> > You have made it clear that
> >> > you fail to understand how that works.
> >> > That came through clear in your first reply
> >> > No need need to repeat
> >>
> >> Who wrote?
> >>
> >> Did he write the first paragraph, the second, or both? Or neither?
> >>
> >
> > Do you plan to follow your dozen messages revealing
> > your ignorance of well pressure tanks with
> > a dozen messages revealing your ignorance of what
> > quotation marks mean?
>
> I love it when people can not answer the questions.
How you ever going to climb out of the deep hole of ignorance
if people hand you all the answers to your dumb questions?
Here is your first clue:
this is what quotation marks look like -> ""
Stormin Mormon
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Steve B" <pittma...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:lqlVp.52960$eJ2....@news.usenetserver.com...
D.A. Tsenuf
news:02cb271s4bga107go...@4ax.com...
>
> Anybody care to hear my "big wrench" story?
> The wrench weighed about 500 pounds.
> Slugging wrench of course.
>
One of the characters in the "March to.." series (military sci-fi), by John
Ringo, had a "big pocking wrench" to solve certain technical problems..
You might relate... :-)
Jim Wilkins
<cayoung61**spambloc...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> ...>
> BTW, a google for maroon shows a color, or a race of dark
> skinned mountain
> people. Were you making a racial slur?
>
> Steve
AFAIK the Maroons were escaped Cuban slaves living in very uncivilized
conditions in the mountains. We encountered them during the Spanish
American War, tried with little success to use them as scouts, and
apparently became very disgusted with them and Cubans in general,
while our troops respected the Spanish they fought. That's based only
on a few memoirs I read. YMMV.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maroon_(people)
jsw
Michael A. Terrell
--
It's easy to think outside the box, when you have a cutting torch.
Go sit on a 'blue wrench'.
Gunner Asch
wrote:
>"Vic Smith" <thismaila...@comcast.net> wrote in message
A BIG pocking wrench!