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Help to mount light on metal pole barn

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stryped

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Sep 28, 2009, 8:59:19 AM9/28/09
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I planned to use a motion detector with the two flood lights centered
above my garage door. I started cutting thinking I would put a plastic
box behind the metal siding inside the garage. However, being centered
it is over a raised rib where two panels meet and it looks like I made
a mess. It was hard to cut and I just stopped. Any ideas on how to
properly mount this light and make it look ok and not leak?

Stormin Mormon

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Sep 28, 2009, 9:13:36 AM9/28/09
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Sheet metal screws. Putty, or caulk. Probably a whole tube
or two of silicone. Do the bottom of the box also, so you
don't get wasps nesting inside the box.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.


"stryped" <stry...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
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stryped

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Sep 28, 2009, 9:21:59 AM9/28/09
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On Sep 28, 8:13 am, "Stormin Mormon"

<cayoung61**spambloc...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Sheet metal screws. Putty, or caulk. Probably a whole tube
> or two of silicone. Do the bottom of the box also, so you
> don't get wasps nesting inside the box.
>
> --
> Christopher A. Young
> Learn more about Jesus
>  www.lds.org
> .
>
> "stryped" <stryp...@yahoo.com> wrote in message

>
> news:9d55dec8-3f04-4cd4...@r36g2000vbn.googlegroups.com...
> I planned to use a motion detector with the two flood lights
> centered
> above my garage door. I started cutting thinking I would put
> a plastic
> box behind the metal siding inside the garage. However,
> being centered
> it is over a raised rib where two panels meet and it looks
> like I made
> a mess. It was hard to cut and I just stopped. Any ideas on
> how to
> properly mount this light and make it look ok and not leak?

That is just it. I dont have the box mounted. I am trying to figure
out what the best thing to do is. What do people normally put as a box
when they have to put it over a raised rib?

Stormin Mormon

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Sep 28, 2009, 9:58:18 AM9/28/09
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The usual box. Some folks use Permagum to fill the air gaps.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"stryped" <stry...@yahoo.com> wrote in message

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SteveB

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Sep 28, 2009, 10:27:31 AM9/28/09
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"stryped" <stry...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:9d55dec8-3f04-4cd4...@r36g2000vbn.googlegroups.com...

They make self tapping self sealing screws that work great and are made to
fasten on the outside of steel buildings.

Steve


--
The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of
patriots and tyrants. - Thomas Jefferson -

So, how's that change and hope working for you?


dpb

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Sep 28, 2009, 10:28:31 AM9/28/09
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Generally, one uses an exterior metal box and only bores a hole the
miminum size needed to run the conduit through the siding on the flat so
you don't have any large holes to seal up.

If you've already made a cut, I'd suggest patching it back best as can
and sealing it and then covering it w/ the exterior box as noted above.

You can either make a filler for the valley on either side if need it to
stabilize the box or many of the siding manufacturers have specialty
parts to fit their specific patterns for the purpose.

If you select the proper outdoor box it will have seals and you won't
have the problems other poster talks about.

--

stryped

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Sep 28, 2009, 10:48:04 AM9/28/09
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Would a j box for vinyle siding work?

dpb

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Sep 28, 2009, 10:54:31 AM9/28/09
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stryped wrote:
> On Sep 28, 9:28 am, dpb <n...@non.net> wrote:
...

>> If you select the proper outdoor box it will have seals and you won't
>> have the problems other poster talks about.
...

> Would a j box for vinyle siding work?

I suppose you could make it work; don't think it would fit against your
metal siding all that well would it?

I'd use something otoo one of those on this page; specifics would depend
on what the fixture looked like as well as the siding.

As noted, I'd plan on ending up w/ only the one penetration for a short
conduit if there's structure/insulation/whatever behind to get to the
interior cleanly or even just a flanged coupler if only the tin (and
it's heavy-enough gauge to mount to w/o additional support--that depends
on the material and what you're mounting).

<http://electrical.hardwarestore.com/14-50-weatherproof-boxes.aspx?page=2>

--

Eric in North TX

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Sep 28, 2009, 11:09:25 AM9/28/09
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I'd use a thin octagon / round box on the outside, that way only 2
small screw holes needed + the one for the wire, and it would at least
look as good as what you are proposing.

JIMMIE

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Sep 28, 2009, 11:11:17 AM9/28/09
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It would be a piece of cake if you were mounting it on something
flat , wouldn't it.
Did this at work a couple of years ago on a metal building. . Mounted
the electrical box on a heavy gauge piece of aluminum a couple of
inches larger than the hole then pop riveted it to the building. This
didn't start out as the plan. I cut the hole and then realized I had
screwed up and couldn't get the box to fit in the corrugations so I
covered the hole temporarily with a scrap piece of metal until I could
back up and rethink what I was doing. After I got my patch up I
realized that was the fix. I didnt have anything to fill the large
cavities created by the corrugations, someone else did that and I am
not sure of what he use. Looked like some kind of rubbery caulk, I
don't think it was silicone.

Jimmie

Lefty

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Sep 28, 2009, 1:10:21 PM9/28/09
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"stryped" <stry...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:9d55dec8-3f04-4cd4...@r36g2000vbn.googlegroups.com...

If it were me, I would take a step back, go get a short piece of the ribbed
metal siding. Some of the lumberyards around here carry shorter pieces, so
you would'nt be throwing away too much money. Anyway, patch the hole by
covering the works up, then surface mount a waterproof exterior box on the
flat between the ribs and mount your electric fixture on that. I don't know
of anyone that makes a "light box" or some such for corrugated metal panels.

HTH, Lefty


Joe

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Sep 28, 2009, 2:44:05 PM9/28/09
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Repair the sheet metal with a neat patch (aluminum pop rivets). New
material should be available at box stores, maybe call the
manufacturer. Since you're two using floodlights, simply mount two
boxes to the flats on either side of the rib. looks good, symmetrical,
and sturdy if you tie the two together in the back with a metal
brace.

Joe

JimmyDahGeek

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Sep 28, 2009, 7:53:33 PM9/28/09
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Why not use a double metal box. cut a couple of 5/4" wolmanized
boards to fit on both side of the rib. glue and screw the boards to
the box and the siding.

stryped

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Sep 29, 2009, 8:34:45 AM9/29/09
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Well, I think I messed it up too much. I am going to try to replace
the two pieces of metal. I have to full length pieces left over from
when it was built.

Can I cut these pieces with my jig saw or is there somethign else that
will work better?

I also bought one of those wet location boxes with the two ears to
mount on top of the metal as everyone here said. My plan is to run pvc
conduit to the openign in the back of the fixture. Do I have to use a
screw in fitting into the threaded portion of the back of this outside
box? The reason I ask is I intend to drill a hole through the metal as
close to the outside diamter of the conduit as I can. If I have a
threaded fitting, wont that outside diameter be different that the pvc
pipe attached to it. it is hard to explain but I hope you understand.

dpb

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Sep 29, 2009, 9:35:27 AM9/29/09
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stryped wrote:
...

> I also bought one of those wet location boxes with the two ears to
> mount on top of the metal as everyone here said. My plan is to run pvc
> conduit to the openign in the back of the fixture. Do I have to use a
> screw in fitting into the threaded portion of the back of this outside
> box? The reason I ask is I intend to drill a hole through the metal as
> close to the outside diamter of the conduit as I can. If I have a
> threaded fitting, wont that outside diameter be different that the pvc
> pipe attached to it. it is hard to explain but I hope you understand.

Find the pieces you need then make the hole to fit.

--

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