I cut down the trees a few years ago. I don't know what kind they are, but
they are the toughest damned trees I've ever seen in my life! My chainsaw
broke cutting them down, and an axe barely penetrates the surface! They
look like Poplar, but they are simply too large to be poplar trees.
I am on my last leg, and this is my idea:
1) Drill a 1.5'' diameter hole in the stump, about 3-4 inches deep
2) Fill it with gunpowder
3) Cork it tight
4) Install a long fuse
5) Light it and run
This will most certainly work. The only problem is that there are a LOT of
nearby trees that I want to keep, and I don't want to catch anything on
fire. Has anyone tried anything similar to this?
Also, I cannot use chemicals. The trees are right above my well sump.
Burning is also out of the question.
Please do not try this yourself. I don't anyone to get hurt from my idea.
I'm looking for people who've tried it or something similar.
Open to other suggestions. Advice is appreciated. Thanks a lot!
> [snip]
> This will most certainly work. The only problem is that there are a
> LOT of nearby trees that I want to keep, and I don't want to catch
> anything on fire. Has anyone tried anything similar to this?
When I was younger, my father used some stumping dynamite to remove several
large tree stumps. Fire wasn't the primary problem -- it was flying
debris. If you have anything valuable within several hundred yards of the
stump (like your house), don't even think about doing something like this.
Rocks, dirt, and chunks of wood go flying for a long distance -- much
further than you might expect.
There are also legal considerations; is it legal for you to build and
detonate your own bomb at that location? You should check with your local
fire/police department ahead of time -- you don't want to end up in jail
over a tree stump.
Call in the pro with a stump grinder. Let them make fast work of it.
--
Joseph E. Meehan
26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math
"Crafty" <cra...@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:Xns9433E...@63.223.8.240...
I cannot afford
to
> rent a dozer, grinder, or hire someone to do it for me.
Digging is also impossible because
My chainsaw
> broke cutting them down, and an axe barely penetrates the surface!
>
> Also, I cannot use chemicals. The trees are right above my well sump.
> Burning is also out of the question.
>
--
Christopher a. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.org
You can also drill holes and fill with cheap 10-10-10. Not sure how
well that works either but it does provide a source of nitrogen for
the bacteria that eat the stump and that's what will eventually do
them in.
Not the fastest way to get rid of stumps but I plan to try one or the
other next year when I clear some large trees to expand a horse
pasture.
Crafty <cra...@nowhere.com> wrote in message news:<Xns9433E...@63.223.8.240>...
Crafty <cra...@nowhere.com> wrote in news:Xns9433E...@63.223.8.240:
> Hello. I have been having trouble with removing a stump. I cannot
Another way of describing this plan is :
"Make my own explosive"
"Blow up Something with home-made explosive"
I spent some time doing stuff a bit like this for my Uncle when he was mad
at some Vietnamese.
Step 3 is tricky. You have to do this just right or you blow a hand off ,
maybe even part of a head.
Er. . .you know stumps tend to rot out if you wait long enough.
Regards
Old Al (4 fingers and a thumb on each hand but a bit light on eye brows)
My favorite video clip was the one from the Pacific Northwest.
A whale beached itself, and died. There was a discussion on the best way to
remove the whale from the beach. Too big to pick up and put on a flatbed.
Then someone had an idea. Pack explosives around the whale and convert it
to very very small pieces. The idea was accepted, and the explosives
placed. In the meantime, people started showing up. TV cameras showed up.
Ice cream trucks showed up.
All was ready. Cameras zoomed in from a "safe" distance.
10-9-8-7-6-5-4-3-2-1 BOOM.
It looked good for about five seconds. Then chunks could be seen dropping
from the sky. Closer and closer to the cameras came the puffs of dust from
landing chunks of blubber. People start screaming and running. Chunks now
landing IN the crowd of hysterical people. Cut tape.
In the aftermath, there were large chunks of blubber all over. One chunk
the size of a VolksWagen landed on top of a car pushing the roof down to
seat level. Luckily, no one was sitting in the car. People had bloody
blubber stains all over them, and it rained a mix of explosive residue mixed
with blubber, oil, and blood.
In the end, they had to go all over with pitchforks and front end loaders
and pick it all up.
It reminded me of Mr. Carlson's line in WKRP in Cinncinati: "As God is my
witness, I thought turkeys could fly."
STeve
Steve
Recipro saw with a pruning blade. You don't want to use your chainsaw
that close to the ground, as you'll just eat up your chain and bar.
Pruning blade is 2-3 bucks. All you need to do it get it below
lawnmower height and let Mother Nature do the rest.
Then toss the blade. Nothing is more useless than trying to cut wood
with a dull recipro blade. DAMHIKT.
Well, it may be the only thing I can do. There are just too many to hire
someone else to do it for me. There's about 15 of them. I live in the
mountains, and it's a LONG way to town. Anyone coming out here would cost
serious dough.
Sure, the deep country is tranquil, but when you need something, you're
usually SOL unless you want to pay a lot or travel a long way to get it.
Thanks for the suggestions, though.
buy the stump grinder, perhaps used, and sell it after you're done. it'll
probably be cheaper than having someone else do it.
> Er. . .you know stumps tend to rot out if you wait long enough.
I was just going to suggest he look up someone here that has a termite
problem and offer to "relocate" the problem.
Are you trying to level it off for grass? or to put something in its
place?
> 1) Drill a 1.5'' diameter hole in the stump, about 3-4 inches deep
> 2) Fill it with gunpowder
Aside from the legal problems, admit that you have no idea how big or deep
this hole should be, and how much powder to charge in. Guessing will not
work. Some things can be learned on-the-job, but blasting?
There are good reasons that stumps are no longer removed by blasting, even
by those who might know how.
I've heard that you can get rid of stumps by drilling holes into the
stumps and then watering frequently (daily?) with a high nitrogen
fertilizer. The organic breakdown of wood is limited by the supply of
air, water and nitrogen - give it plenty of all three and it'll turn
to compost pretty quickly. At least, that's the theory - I've never
done this.
There's also burning out the stump. It's reckless, but probably safer
than blasting. I'd use the air/water/nitrogen technique myself.
I did a quick look in google and found this.
http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/tips/msg0412444421263.html
--- Chip
> Hello. I have been having trouble with removing a stump. I cannot
> afford to rent a dozer, grinder, or hire someone to do it for me. I
> have several LARGE stumps to remove. Digging is also impossible
> because there are many other tree roots nearby, and the ground is
> mostly rock and clay.
>
> I cut down the trees a few years ago. I don't know what kind they are,
> but they are the toughest damned trees I've ever seen in my life! My
> chainsaw broke cutting them down, and an axe barely penetrates the
> surface! They look like Poplar, but they are simply too large to be
> poplar trees.
>
> I am on my last leg, and this is my idea:
>
> 1) Drill a 1.5'' diameter hole in the stump, about 3-4 inches deep
> 2) Fill it with gunpowder
> 3) Cork it tight
Yeah,like that will work.Might shoot the cork a good distance.
> 4) Install a long fuse
> 5) Light it and run
>
> This will most certainly work. The only problem is that there are a
> LOT of nearby trees that I want to keep, and I don't want to catch
> anything on fire. Has anyone tried anything similar to this?
>
> Also, I cannot use chemicals. The trees are right above my well sump.
> Burning is also out of the question.
>
> Please do not try this yourself. I don't anyone to get hurt from my
> idea. I'm looking for people who've tried it or something similar.
>
> Open to other suggestions. Advice is appreciated. Thanks a lot!
>
When using explosives,one must consider where the debris will fly.
(possible damage to property,especially other's)
Blasting inside city limits also is a no-no.
From your comments/plans,it appears you lack knowledge of safely doing any
explosives work. I'd suggest a pro.
--
Jim Yanik,NRA member
jyanik-at-kua.net
I load shotgun shells often, so I am familiar with gunpowder. I wasn't
aware that it was so unstable, and I've never had it detonate prematurely.
A little wood glue should hold the cork in place well enough. I already
have gunpowder, so the cost would be minimal.
Crafty <cra...@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:Xns9434733...@63.223.8.240...
Michael Baugh <baug...@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:Cojtb.20378$Mm.1...@bignews6.bellsouth.net...
Okay, again, I wasn't aware that there were explosives training classes.
Where did you go to school, Afghanistan? I am not a teenager, either.
HD has stuff called "Stump Out" which is salt peter. It will speed rot.
Also, you could easily cut the stump out a few months after application.
EJ
Crafty <cra...@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:Xns943455BE...@63.223.8.240...
You did it now! Son the black helicopters will be flying over your home!!!
When the Oklahoma bombing took place some people were shocked to find out
about the mix for the bomb. Someone even mentioned to me as to how people
find out about stuff like this. I mentioned one such conversation to my Dad
and he reached into his file cabinat and showed me some information he has
had for years on mixing and use of the fertilizer/diesel fuel mix. The sheet
had the address where it came from, I forget the specifics, but it came
right from a county goverment office, and it was given out to farmers with
the intent for ues to blow stumps, ditches, and watering holes for
livestock.
Greg
I would not recommend either method.
The most common method and one we used when was working on a pipeline
is ANFO.
But trying any of these is unsafe and probably would earn you a
comfortable stay in a warm place with 3 meals a day, hospital or
jail.
Greg O <goo...@cableone.net> wrote in message
news:vrcd81j...@corp.supernews.com...
bighead <jumboc...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:4b397a49.03111...@posting.google.com...
>> From your comments/plans,it appears you lack knowledge of safely
>> doing any explosives work. I'd suggest a pro.
>>
>
> I load shotgun shells often, so I am familiar with gunpowder. I wasn't
> aware that it was so unstable, and I've never had it detonate
> prematurely. A little wood glue should hold the cork in place well
> enough. I already have gunpowder, so the cost would be minimal.
>
Do you know the laws regarding "destructive devices"?
and the penalties for making them?
Last report I saw about OKC was that it was AN/nitromethane mix,not ANFO.
(NM used as Drag-racing or RC car fuel)
As in when a cartridge in a gun is supposed to fire, and the "cork" (lead)
pop out through the barrel, but doesn't and causes the gun to "explode"?
As when a blackpowder M-80 is put into a mailbox, and the door doesn't "pop"
open to relieve the pressure, but the mailbox is destroyed?
Things explode all the time although they have a relief channel.
Where did you go to explosives school? I think you should ask for a refund.
What state do you live in? (other than the state of confusion) I want to
avoid that state in my travels.
Steve
Buying ammonium nitrate fertilizer and fuel oil is illegal now?
Steve
When the Erie Canal was built they used an interesting device to remove tree
stumps. The program that I saw showed a computer generated image of the
device, which consisted of two wheels about 10' in diameter with an axle
between. A chain was wrapped around the axle, and down around the stump. A
team of horses were attached to heavy ropes around the wheels and the horses
were "encouraged" to pull on the wheels. The axle turned with the chain
pulling up on the stump. It was explained that this method was quite
effective and used extensively.
indago <elin...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:BBDBCF57.3E56%elin...@earthlink.net...
Michael Baugh wrote:
> In one of the sites I looked at, a person talked about
> securing chains to the stump with a railroad spike,
> wrapping the chain around the stump, and then the
> chains being pulled, causing the stump to be rotated
> and the roots sheared or removed from the dirt so
> that the stump was able to be removed.
Sounds like Excedrin headache #712,if the spike lets go :o)
SteveB <desert6...@cox.net> wrote in message
news:rastb.14271$Q64.1419@fed1read03...
SteveB <desert6...@cox.net> wrote in message
news:bdstb.14289$Q64.1072@fed1read03...
In article <Xns9433E...@63.223.8.240>, cra...@nowhere.com says...
> Hello. I have been having trouble with removing a stump. I cannot afford to
> rent a dozer, grinder, or hire someone to do it for me. I have several
> LARGE stumps to remove. Digging is also impossible because there are many
> other tree roots nearby, and the ground is mostly rock and clay.
>
> I cut down the trees a few years ago. I don't know what kind they are, but
> they are the toughest damned trees I've ever seen in my life! My chainsaw
> broke cutting them down, and an axe barely penetrates the surface! They
> look like Poplar, but they are simply too large to be poplar trees.
>
> I am on my last leg, and this is my idea:
>
> 1) Drill a 1.5'' diameter hole in the stump, about 3-4 inches deep
> 2) Fill it with gunpowder
> 3) Cork it tight
> 4) Install a long fuse
> 5) Light it and run
>
> This will most certainly work. The only problem is that there are a LOT of
> nearby trees that I want to keep, and I don't want to catch anything on
> fire. Has anyone tried anything similar to this?
>
> Also, I cannot use chemicals. The trees are right above my well sump.
> Burning is also out of the question.
>
> Please do not try this yourself. I don't anyone to get hurt from my idea.
> I'm looking for people who've tried it or something similar.
>
> Open to other suggestions. Advice is appreciated. Thanks a lot!
>
>
--
Bait for spammers:
root@localhost
postmaster@localhost
admin@localhost
abuse@localhost
postm...@127.0.0.1
Have fun
Gunpowder isn't unstable, as you well know. Some people are
just scared of anything they don't know. OTOH, you
apparently haven't been around people who do know how to
blow stuff up without making a complete botch of it. You
have to shape the charge or at least direct it.
But to the larger topic. Your description of how hard this
wood is, sounds like a troll. Or, you have really crappy
tools. A simple brace and bit would have bored those holes
just fine, let alone using any power equipment. You have
had these stumps for years. If you had drilled a few holes
and put potassium nitrate in the holes, most of your problem
would be solved, and the potassium nitrate if put into the
wood holes would not affect your well. You best solution is
still to bore deep holes, add potassium nitrate, wait a
year, and then burn the stumps. First, don't buy some fancy
stump dissolver since it is just plaint potassium nitrate.
If you can't find it, just use ammonium nitrate (common
fertilizer), pack the holes, add water, and seal the hole if
you want. To burn these stumps, a contained fire would work
a lot better, although a hot maintained fire will also
work. You will need a bunch of fuel, so you need to build a
bonfire around the stump.
Of course, a much simpler solution is what everyone clearing
land does, buldoze the stumps into a pile and burn them.
Buying potassium nitrate at a hugely inflated price as salt
peter isn't really smart. And, unless you live in a very
warm and wet climate, the salt peter isn't going to make the
stump easlily cut out in a few month. Try 3-4 years and
even longer depending on they type of tree.
[snip]
>To burn these stumps, a contained fire would work
>a lot better, although a hot maintained fire will also
>work. You will need a bunch of fuel, so you need to build a
>bonfire around the stump.
>
[snip]
You reminded me. Many years ago I had a mesquite stump to get rid of
(mesquite is *very* hard).
Sawed it off as flush to the ground as I could manage with a big
logger's saw, then dug around the roots to expose them.
Covered the whole thing with charcoal and lit it off.
Daily I'd come home from work and add more charcoal.
It was gone (below ground-level) in slightly over a week.
...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice:(480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax:(480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |
I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.
Sorry, wrong.
_Neither_ smokeless powder (eg: pyradex) or blackpowder are explosives.
["Explosive" being defined officially as when the gas expansion is
above the speed of sound.]
The difference between gunpowder and smokeless powder is simply that
gunpowder's coefficient of combustion is such that it burns _very_
fast even if uncontained - but still not an explosive shock wave.
How fast depends on the grain size (primarily). Antique firearms
usually use FFFFg (very fine) or FFFg (fine). Antique firearms
simply don't work properly with coarser black powder.
The only way you can get blackpowder to "go boom" is contain
it inside something like a pipe with threaded on ends. Then you're
getting the boom from the pipe overpressuring and throwing bits.
Pyradex, when unconfined burns fairly slowly comparatively.
> A hand full of smokeless powder
> can be touched off with a match and will only burn, admittedly very
> fast and you may loose some eyebrows, but a hand full of blackpowder
> would take your hand off when a match touched it.
Sorry no. Blackpowder does the "flash, lose eyebrows" trick[+]. Pyradex
uncontained is _much_ tamer. More like safety matches burning.
The only way you can get firearms to work with pyradex is to contain
it to build pressure, then it burns much faster. Blackpowder burn rate
doesn't depend nearly as much on pressure.
If blackpowder was an explosive, you couldn't make rocket motors with it.
You couldn't use it in a firearm (it's a little late to find that out
now ;-)
The chinese started flying blackpowder rockets around 1000AD.
Kids fly model rockets with blackpowder motors (ordinary ESTES model
rocket motors) every day.
I fly amateur rockets (I'm certified to motors that can throw a 25
pound rocket 3000' up). While the fuel grains themselves aren't blackpowder
(AP actually), we used blackpowder to pressure-eject the recovery system
(usually a parachute).
If blackpowder was explosive, the rocket would come down in itty bitty bits.
Which can ruin your whole day.
We generally don't use pyradex (despite it being a lot easier
to get these days) for ejection charges because when used as we use
blackpowder, it produces gas too slowly. To use pyradex, you have
to try moderately complicated containment methods that let pressure
build up high enough to get the burn rate fast enough, and then let
the pressure out without blowing a hole in the rocket.
[+] A friend of mine lost his eyebrows and got a free facial peel from the
flash when he got a little too close to a teaspoon of gunpowder set off in
a dish. The dish survived. Only slightly melted. If blackpowder was
explosive, the dish would be in itty bitty bits. My friend survived
just fine too. Lost some acne scars in the process... Some people pay
a lot of money for that process... ;-)
> The most common method and one we used when was working on a pipeline
> is ANFO.
Do note that getting ANFO to work _properly_ requires care in selecting
ingredients (beyond simply the right chemicals), mixing ratios, etc.
McVey tried for quite a while before he got it right.
Secondly, ANFO is difficult to set off. One of it's great attractivenesses
is that it's very stable and safe to handle. If you light
it, it just burns. Like the fuel oil it contains. You need a pretty
violent shock - a blasting cap (or even a stick of dynamite) - to make
it detonate.
ANFO is great for large scale application. They carry it around in pumper
trucks on large quarry sites, and just pour it down the holes. Insert
blasting cap, insert a wad of something to seal the hole, and fire the
cap.
For a onsey-twosey remove stump job, hiring a contractor to come by
with a couple sticks of dynamite is a lot more effective.
> But trying any of these is unsafe and probably would earn you a
> comfortable stay in a warm place with 3 meals a day, hospital or
> jail.
Very unsafe. The prison term is when you manufacture explosives without
a license. Or store it without a LEUP. Plus violating local ordinances
about permits etc.
[As I understand it, and perhaps still even now, I'd merely need to go
to the Ontario Provincial Police, say "I want to blow up three stumps
at this address at such and such an address", they give me a permit (if
they think what I'm doing is reasonable), which gives me permission to
purchase the appropriate number of dynamite sticks, and then I can set
the stuff off myself as per the permit. Without having a "license"
per-se. But the SO won't let me, so I've not gotten to test my
understanding... ;-)]
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.
> As I said in an earlier post, true explosives do not need any
> confining at all to do their damage.
Precisely.
> If you had a flat piece of C4 and scooped
> out a depression in it, oddly enough that depression is where the most
> damage will be done.
In fact, there's a similar trick you can play with TNT sticks. Let say
you want to punch a hole in a rock. Take three sticks of TNT and
prop them up as a "teepee" above where you want the hole. Fire all
three at once. The shock waves reinforce each other and punch a hole
straight down.
> Smokeless powder that is used in modern firearms
> is NOT an explosive.
Similarly, black powder as used in antique firearms is NOT
an explosive either.
If it was, the gun would simply explode in your face, REGARDLESS
of whether there was a bullet in front of the charge or not.
Did you BBQ with it daily too?
You should have ;-)
There's LOW-ORDER explosives,and high-order explosives.
Big difference,mainly in how fast the explosion travels.
Disclaimer;I'm not an expert.
> According to bighead <jumboc...@yahoo.com>:
>
>> As I said in an earlier post, true explosives do not need any
>> confining at all to do their damage.
>
> Precisely.
>
>> If you had a flat piece of C4 and scooped
>> out a depression in it, oddly enough that depression is where the most
>> damage will be done.
>
> In fact, there's a similar trick you can play with TNT sticks. Let say
> you want to punch a hole in a rock. Take three sticks of TNT and
> prop them up as a "teepee" above where you want the hole. Fire all
> three at once. The shock waves reinforce each other and punch a hole
> straight down.
A crude 'hollow-charge',using the Monroe Effect,like RPG warheads.
Depends on how much you buy,and your address.(location)
Only needed a little over a week on that one.
Jim Thompson <inv...@invalid.invalid> wrote in message
news:g5jdrv8cff59pgu7p...@4ax.com...
George E. Cawthon <George...@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:3FB6CC89...@worldnet.att.net...
Firearm misfires will readily breech carbon steel and blow your face off.
It happens. Gunpowder is explosive under pressure.
If I were dead set on blowing stumps with gunpowder, I'd make
some pipe bombs a little smaller than the hole in the tree. With
care about getting powder into the threads.
Crafty <cra...@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:Xns9434EAA...@63.223.8.240...
Weeeel, fresh out of school young Johnson started his business as a
tree surgeon. His first job was a contract to remove a stubborn tree
stump in a farmer's field. Not having done it before he wasn't quite
sure how much dynamite to use. Rather than appear stumped he pulled
out his tape measure and took a lot of measurements in every way he
could while he figured out what to do. Finally he couldn't stall any
longer and went ahead.
BOOM. He must have used a bit too much dynamite. The stump left a
neat hole in the ground and arched gracefully into the air. And
landed right on top of his truck's cab.
The farmer's jaw dropped. He was impressed.
"Hey young fella. With a bit more practice your will get it to drop
that on the box everytime."
> I know. And getting mushrooms started on the stump
> will break it down, too.
> Only reason I mentioned the saltpeter is because the
> stump rotting product had already been mentioned,
> with the same ingredient. Even if it took a 50 pound
> bag of ammonium nitrate, it would be better than an
> amateur trying his hand with blasting stumps.
let him try it... he will have even more stumps... like stumps for arms and
legs if he's lucky...
Daniel L. Belton <ab...@spam.gov> wrote in message
news:n3Itb.30410$oC5....@clmboh1-nws5.columbus.rr.com...
> Michael Baugh wrote:
> >
> > All right, let's give you an introduction to explosives.
> > Something explodes because it is in a confined space.
> > A cork plugging the hole is not sufficient to keep the
> > gunpowder from simply burning quickly and popping
> > the cork.
>
> Hi. This week I'm an explosives expert. And you've just described the
> feeling and effect I get when I pull the gerbil's head out of my rectum.
> Oooohh. I can only imagine having a tree stump in my ass! Ohh babeee!
>
> --
> Christopher a. Bung
> Learn more about Gay Mormon Boys
> www.lsd.org
> www.mormons_luv_anal_sex.org
oh.... so YOU are teh one that ended up in the hospital after having the
gasses ignited while trying to remove the gerbil, eh?
...snip
>I am on my last leg, and this is my idea:
>
>1) Drill a 1.5'' diameter hole in the stump, about 3-4 inches deep
>2) Fill it with gunpowder
>3) Cork it tight
>4) Install a long fuse
>5) Light it and run
>
>This will most certainly work. The only problem is that there are a LOT of
>nearby trees that I want to keep, and I don't want to catch anything on
>fire. Has anyone tried anything similar to this?
>
>Also, I cannot use chemicals. The trees are right above my well sump.
>Burning is also out of the question.
>
Well, ok. First of all, you'd get a more effective and cheaper blast
using ammonium nitrate (common fertilizer) and diesel fuel. Problem
is that you need to set it off with a blasting cap and that might be
tough to get. Second of all, you normally dig down between the roots,
make a much larger hole which you pack with the mixture above. Third
of all, you don't ever do that with a sump below.
The well sump is a real problem. The folks who told you that nitrogen
based fertilizer will work were quite right, but I don't know if the
residue is something you want to end up in your well.
FWLIW, I'd do it the hard way - dig down as far as you can, hook your
largest vehicle to the stump (use heavy chain) and pull. It's not
easy, but you'll eliminate the problem of well damage which could be
far more expensive.
If it were me, I'd get a friend with a backhoe and I'd stick an old
chain on the chainsaw.
--
Larry
Email to rapp at lmr dot com
Ah yes, a classic
Since you've ruled out all the answers, I guess you are stuck with your
problem since you don't want an answer.
BTW, explosives will create all the problems you say you don't want. You
obviously don't have experience with explosives, or you'd just go do it. And
not bother to post to usenet.
You're still stuck with your problem. Too bad.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn More about Jesus
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"Crafty" <cra...@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:Xns9433E...@63.223.8.240...
> Hello. I have been having trouble with removing a stump. I cannot afford
to
> rent a dozer, grinder, or hire someone to do it for me. I have several
> LARGE stumps to remove. Digging is also impossible because there are many
> other tree roots nearby, and the ground is mostly rock and clay.
>
> I cut down the trees a few years ago. I don't know what kind they are, but
> they are the toughest damned trees I've ever seen in my life! My chainsaw
> broke cutting them down, and an axe barely penetrates the surface! They
> look like Poplar, but they are simply too large to be poplar trees.
>
> I am on my last leg, and this is my idea:
>
> 1) Drill a 1.5'' diameter hole in the stump, about 3-4 inches deep
> 2) Fill it with gunpowder
> 3) Cork it tight
> 4) Install a long fuse
> 5) Light it and run
>
> This will most certainly work. The only problem is that there are a LOT of
> nearby trees that I want to keep, and I don't want to catch anything on
> fire. Has anyone tried anything similar to this?
>
> Also, I cannot use chemicals. The trees are right above my well sump.
> Burning is also out of the question.
>
You are also right about the blasting, that should be
anyone's last resort (and might be) if they don't know what
they are doing.
Anyone who want's to see the difference between smokeless
and black powder only needs to lay out a line of each and
touch each off with a match. However, the burning of
unconfined powder is quite different from compressed
powder. If you want to see dramatic differences put the
same amount of blackpowder in a rifle and compress one load
then try it without compression. Or, put it in any other
container and then watch what happens. There is a reason
that you use a ramrod with black powder even when the ball
will roll down the barrel. And if you reload cartridges,
you know that blackpowder reloads are compressed and with
smokeless powder there is often a lot of space between the
cartridge and the bullet.
The statement that antique firearms use 4F and 3F is
incorrect, pistols, small rifles, and flash pans use the
finer grains. 2F is often used for larger bore rifles.
You don't need pipes for blackpowder or smokeless powder to
go boom. Paper tubes work just fine, e.g., fire crackers.
Chris Lewis wrote:
((much deleted to save space))
>Hello. I have been having trouble with removing a stump. I cannot afford to
>rent a dozer, grinder, or hire someone to do it for me. I have several
>LARGE stumps to remove. Digging is also impossible because there are many
>other tree roots nearby, and the ground is mostly rock and clay.
>
If renting a grinder is too inconvenient how about using a chainsaw as
a gouger. That is use the tip of the chainsaw to gouge out a large
hole in the stump so that you can pour chemicals into it and minimize
the chemicals running out to contaminate the soil. Once the surface
layers of the stump have softened use the chainsaw to remove the gunk
and repeat the process until the stump can be cut back to below ground
level.
...snip
>If renting a grinder is too inconvenient how about using a chainsaw as
>a gouger. That is use the tip of the chainsaw to gouge out a large
>hole in the stump so that you can pour chemicals into it and minimize
>the chemicals running out to contaminate the soil. Once the surface
>layers of the stump have softened use the chainsaw to remove the gunk
>and repeat the process until the stump can be cut back to below ground
>level.
No flame intended, but that is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS! Never, ever use
the tip of a chainsaw to gouge - that's an invitation for kickback and
serious injury. Many folks cut with the top of the bar, most use the
bottom, and a few adventurous souls (usually loggers) use the bottom
quarter of the tip, but never the top quarter.
I wouldn't. Too easy to catch the wrong side of the tip and get a saw
bar in your skull.
Might try an angle grinder with a wood carving disc installed, however.
>
>I wouldn't. Too easy to catch the wrong side of the tip and get a saw
>bar in your skull.
>
>Might try an angle grinder with a wood carving disc installed, however.
>
The HVAC guy who installed my system used the tip end of a small
chainsaw to cut a square hole into the wall so that he could install
the fresh air intake duct. I thought that was a pretty neat method
and no other tool could have done it as conveniently. That chainsaw
was certainly safer and faster than using a regular electric saw to
cut hole some 5 feet above ground level. I wouldn' t swear by using
the same method to gouge out the tree stump centre not having tried
it. But its a thought. A small chain saw is probably light enough
and doesn't give as much of a kick that one cannot control it in a
kickback.
> Firearm misfires will readily breech carbon steel and blow your face off.
> It happens. Gunpowder is explosive under pressure.
Smokeless powder will do the same thing under the right conditions.
Heck, we can get a chunk of wood or ordinary plastic to "explode" by
that definition.
Does that make wood or plastic pipe an explosive?
I suspect not.
--
mglodowski
>> I am on my last leg, and this is my idea:
>>
>> 1) Drill a 1.5'' diameter hole in the stump, about 3-4 inches deep
>> 2) Fill it with gunpowder
>> 3) Cork it tight
>> 4) Install a long fuse
>> 5) Light it and run
Reminds me of this story.
Caleb had recently graduated from a tree-surgeon school (can't recall
exactly what type school so 'tss' will have to do.) So he set up shop
and the first was a call from a farmer who wanted to remove a large
tree stump from his section. Caleb loaded up his truck and headed
out. As he had never used dynamite before for stump removal he wasn't
quite sure how to go about it. So he whupped out his tape measure and
stalled for time by making a lot of measurements while he figured out
what to do next. Well one can only stall for so long, especially with
the farmer looking on. So Caleb snucked the dynamite under the stump
and took shelter at a safe distance so that he could set it off.
BOOM. Caleb must have put bin a bit too much charge. The stump
lifted off gracefully into the air and arced down to demolish his
truck's cab. The farmer was impressed. "Hey there young fella. With
a bit of practice you will get it to land on the box everytime."
Gonna have to do better than that.
Hole is not deep enough, and there would not be sufficient deoth to
tamp the charge......You fail to mention where in relatinship to stump
you intend to drill said charge hole.......you certainly do not want
to drill it in the cut end of the stump, or yuour gonna have a lot of
fragmentation, and more than likely still leave a heap of roots inthe
ground. YOu need toget down and under the stump with a bar, and no
hole drilling would be needed most of the times. A good placed charge
will loosen and lift stump and not fragment much if any at all.
Why not just buy some dynamite and electric or fuse type cap and be
done with it. Here yu can buy it all day long as long as you have a
drivers license and are a property owner........What ever you buy has
tobe uysed the same date as the purchase and can not be
stored......but thats hard to enforce.........Going price right now
for it is $2.09 for a stick, and .90 for a electric cap. I only use
electric so do not kow price of fuse type or the price of fuse.
==============================================
Put some color in your cheeks...garden naked!
"The original frugal ponder.."Since my statements are
given freely, take em or leave em, I am entitled to
my opinion none the less. My opinion and $1 is still
only worth $1.....
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