I broke the handle off a ball valve. How to attach it???

[Paint...@unlisted.moo]

I broke the handle off a ball valve. Darn hose got stuck on it, and
broke off the threaded part. It's not a bolt, but rather the brass shaft
had threads on it, and a nut above the handle. That threaded brass part
broke off.

Normally I'd just replace it, it's just a $10 valve, but it's in
galvanized steel pipe with no union nearby, so either I rip apart a lot
of pipes, or saw it and thread or replace pipes. A job I'd rather avoid
since the valve still works fine, the handle just wont stay on it.

The shaft has 2 flat spots, so the handle works fine. But I'd like to
find a way to keep the handle on it.

I thought about drilling into that brass, and threading the hole, but
there is not much material there, so I might end up drilling into the
inside ball, and ruining the whole thing. My only other thought is to
glue it on with JB Weld. But first I have to buy some, since I used up
what I had before. That will probably be the way I do it, but thought
I'd post this and see if anyone else has any suggestions.
Sometimes there are some good suggestions on here!

[DerbyDad03]

Determine the manufacturer and order a new stem. e.g.

http://www.cranecpe.com/images/dmImage/SourceImage/jenkins-ball-valves-features.jpg

I like JB Weld but I'm not sure it will work in this case.

[Stormin Mormon]

I'd slip the handle on. Hit the shaft end in several
places with a prick punch and hammer. Try to widen
the shaft so it grabs inside the handle.

--
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.

[Colonel Edmund J. Burke]

Keep that welding stuff away from my balls!

[Dean Hoffman]

How about using a small pair of Vise Grips for a handle?
Sharkbite fittings and some sort of telescope instead of
cutting and threading?

--
Using Opera's mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/

[Paint...@unlisted.moo]

On Fri, 11 Mar 2016 20:39:31 -0600, "Dean Hoffman"
<dh0...@windstream.net> wrote:

>> I thought about drilling into that brass, and threading the hole, but
>> there is not much material there, so I might end up drilling into the
>> inside ball, and ruining the whole thing. My only other thought is to
>> glue it on with JB Weld. But first I have to buy some, since I used up
>> what I had before. That will probably be the way I do it, but thought
>> I'd post this and see if anyone else has any suggestions.
>> Sometimes there are some good suggestions on here!
>>
> How about using a small pair of Vise Grips for a handle?
>Sharkbite fittings and some sort of telescope instead of
>cutting and threading?

Thanks,
The vice grips is a possible solution.

I dont think they make Sharkbites for galvanized pipe, but I may be
wrong. However, I wont use any of them. Not only are they over priced,
but they can fail, and I know that for fact, after seeing it happen.

I'm not sure what you mean by "some sort of telescope" ????

[DerbyDad03]

Is buying a new stem not an option?

[TomR]

In news:7fec2afc-df64-4384...@googlegroups.com,
DerbyDad03 <teama...@eznet.net> typed:

> On Thursday, March 10, 2016 at 8:17:10 PM UTC-5,
> Paint...@unlisted.moo wrote:
>> I broke the handle off a ball valve. Darn hose got stuck on it, and
>> broke off the threaded part. It's not a bolt, but rather the brass
>> shaft had threads on it, and a nut above the handle. That threaded

>> brass part broke off. . . . ,

> Determine the manufacturer and order a new stem. e.g.
>
> http://www.cranecpe.com/images/dmImage/SourceImage/jenkins-ball-valves-features.jpg

A side question:

I am just curious..., when I look at the exploded diagram of the ball valve
(cool link, thanks), it doesn't look like the valve stem would come out
through the top valve. I would assume that it must come out that way, but
it looks too large in the diagram for that to work.

So, my question is, on a ball valve, if I take off the handle, packing nut,
packing, etc., will the valve stem come out?

Again, I assume it will, but I am just wondering if that is correct.

[TomR]

In news:po54eb94pmtg2tvf5...@4ax.com,
Paint...@unlisted.moo <Paint...@unlisted.moo> typed:

Just guessing here, but I think that many types of glue will probably work
for what you want to do. If the flat parts in the handle slot fit fairly
snugly on the remaining stem, then I think many types of glue would just
hold it in place. The actual force or torque on the parts would be between
the two metal pieces and not on the glue itself, and I think the glue would
just keep the handle in place. So, maybe JB Weld, Super Glue, Duco Cement,
etc. would work and would be worth a try.

Or, for the few times that you would need to operate the valve, maybe just
tie a string around the handle and hang it on the pipe or valve so it will
always be there when you need it to open or close the valve.

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

You are already usig something that "can fail" - it already has.

If you have galvanized pipe in your house, now might be a good time to
start replacing it. It will in all likelihood need to be changed when
the time comes to sell the house, or if you decide to change insurers.

[Paint...@unlisted.moo]

I'm going to try to buy an identical valve, take it apart, and see if I
can change the stem. I'm a bit puzzled whether the stem just sits on top
of the ball, or is directly attached to it. Because if the ball has to
come out, that means I have to take the plumbing apart anyhow, in which
case I may as well just change the whole valve. Looking at that URL for
a ball valve diagram, it sort of looks like the ball can stay, in which
case I'll just change the stem. I wont even bother to try to find a
replacement stem. It's only a $10 valve. But I have to wait till I get
to the big city to see if they have one like it. The local (rural) small
hardware store only has one (cheap looking) ball valve that is built
differently, and is way over priced.

[Paint...@unlisted.moo]

On Sat, 12 Mar 2016 14:40:04 -0500, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:

>If you have galvanized pipe in your house, now might be a good time to
>start replacing it. It will in all likelihood need to be changed when
>the time comes to sell the house, or if you decide to change insurers.

You gotta be kidding.....
Galvanized pipe is some of the most durable pipe made.
I dont plan to sell the house, and if some insurer told me I'd have to
replace my steel pipes, I'd quickly tell him he needs to change his
job.... (and show him the door).

And this pipe is not in the house, it's in an underground concrete pit,
where my well storage tank is located. I would not even consider any
other type of pipe in that location. My entire farm is fed from this
pipe.

[bob haller]

water flow decreases over time because of rusting from the inside..

till you have no flow, about that time it will begin leaking at all fittings.

if your current homeowners insurance company is sold, gets too expensive or finds out you have this plumbing, bad sidewalks, a fire, or other loss they will require these lines be replaced, bad sidewalks replaced, porches be repaired, new roof, upgrade to circuit breakers, replace all knob and tube wiring. etc etc. heck someone visting trips and you will be getting a visit by the homeowners insurance company inspection service

PEX is so easy to work with, and cheap,

[Mark Lloyd]

On 03/11/2016 08:39 PM, Dean Hoffman wrote:

[snip]

> How about using a small pair of Vise Grips for a handle?

I had a similar situation. That's what I did. It was supposed to be
temporary, but it worked so well it's been that way for about 8 years now.

--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us/

"many of lifes failures are people that did not realise how close they
where to success before they gave up. "

[Dean Hoffman]

On Sat, 12 Mar 2016 06:19:31 -0600, <Paint...@unlisted.moo> wrote:

Something like this:
<http://www.amazon.com/King-Brothers-Inc-QF-1000-Telescoping/dp/B000KKS61K>
or http://alturl.com/597kg
Maybe a slip coupling would save some work also. It's a coupler
that slides over the pipe. It slides over the two pieces then is
tightened.
There are compression fittings at each end of the coupler.

[DerbyDad03]

On Saturday, March 12, 2016 at 5:36:51 PM UTC-5, Mark Lloyd wrote:
> On 03/11/2016 08:39 PM, Dean Hoffman wrote:
>
> [snip]
>
> > How about using a small pair of Vise Grips for a handle?
>
> I had a similar situation. That's what I did. It was supposed to be
> temporary, but it worked so well it's been that way for about 8 years now.
>

I tend to live by the famous saying:

"It's only temporary...unless it works."

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

In your application you are ok - but virtually all home insurers will
give you a REAL hard time about any galvanized water pipe inside a
home - as well as cast iron sewer stacks.

Why? because water damage claims constitute a very large majority of
damage clains to houses - MUCH higher than fire damage - and contrary
to what you may believe, insurance companies are not in the "risk
taking" business. They are in the "risk controlling" business - and
one of the easiest ways to control the risk of water damage in a home
is to refuse to insure homes with what have proven to be the highest
risk features. Among those - high on the list - are galvanized water
pipe and cast iron sewer pipes.

Most will not stop covering you if you are already insured with them,
but most will also either not take you on as a new customer or will
add a significant surcharge to your premium to insure you.

Same if your roof is older than so old, you have knob and tube wiring,
you heat primarilly with wood, or you have aluminum wiring that has
not recently had an inspection assuring it is in good condition and
has not been "butchered" when modifications.additions have been made.

Up here (ontario Canada) you won't get insutance on a house with a 60
amp service either. 100amp os the minimum required - and whether you
have aluminum or knob and tube or not, many companies are requiring an
electrical inspection as a condition of insurance on any building over
a certain age (I believe most with this condition put the limit around
40 years) and if circuits are found to be overloaded, or panels
undersized, you will be required to replace the panel and rewire the
overloaded circuits. You will also be required to install GFCI
protection where required by current code.

I just went through all this with my 44 year old house to change
insurers. What I save on insurance from the change will pay for the
(expensive) panel replacement and inspections required in as little as
5 years.

from the canadian underwriters.ca website :

Water damage accounts for approximately 40% of all home insurance
claims, according to data released Tuesday from Aviva Canada Inc.

Water

The average cost of water damage claims rose 117% over 10 years, from
$71,92 in 2002 to more than $15,500 in 2012, the insurer says. Aviva
Canada paid out more than $111 million in property water damage claims
in 2012 alone.

British Columbia has seen the highest increase in average cost of
water damage claims at 154%, followed closely by Ontario at 136%,
Alberta at 109% and Newfoundland and Labrador at 107%.

Rounding out the provincial breakdown for the 10-year period, is
Quebec with an 84% increase, Nova Scotia with 61% and New Brunswick at
50%. Saskatchewan, Manitoba, Prince Edward Island and the territories
saw only a small number of claims and therefore were not broken out in
the data provided by Aviva Canada.

In the USA:
National statistics for Insurance Claims relating to water damage
claims – show that the average amount needed to repair water leaks
can be over $20,000.

According to The American Insurance Association water leaks in homes
results in property loss amounting to over $10 billion.

Water Damage Claims account for approximately 23% of ALL Home Owners
Insurance property losses suffered by homeowners.

[eric]

replying to TomR, eric wrote:


yes unless there is a "blowout prevention" shaft

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[Chimerem]

I have this issue. How did you resolve it?

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[Rod Speed]

"Chimerem" <f1c6e8b44b2127b9...@example.com> wrote in message
news:163a4fee6fc5738d$1$132620$4096...@news.newsgroupdirect.com...

> I have this issue. How did you resolve it?

That was 4 years ago. It is unlikely to see your question now.

[Cynic111]

Get a new valve!

[jianfour]

Not sure if you will see this. From your picture I need to just pull that handle off, It appears I can do that by removing the handle nut and washer only. No need to turn off the water and no risk of leaks correct? The issue is the water softener people installed their pip directly over the handle for the outside spigot. It will be a week before they are out and I need that spigot on. I assume I can just remove it and use pliers to open up the valve.