Old Stanley Garage Door Opener
Willie The Wimp
Model 2000.05, from maybe 1984.
I push the button on the wall or the remote and the motor starts
opening or closing but stops dead in about a second.
I know, I know, the safety/reverse switch. Turned the adjustment all
the way to "insensitive", no help. I removed and cleaned the "safety"
switch, no help. Also tried removing one or both of the elec.
connectors to switch: same result.
I can't figger how the door-stop mechanism works. Push the button,
it starts: what stops it and how (when it's working correctly)?
Anybody familiar with these things? If it's the safety switch, I
need to disable it or similar.
Thanks,
Willie
dpb
...
> I can't figger how the door-stop mechanism works. Push the button,
> it starts: what stops it and how (when it's working correctly)?
...
Limit switches -- there's a contact on each direction; probably on a
threaded rod that rotates as opens/closes to move the actuator.
--
uncle K
you have checked all points to eliminate the possibility of the door
binding, right?
Unc
Percival P. Cassidy
Does it have an overload/overheat switch? Perhaps the door is not moving
freely enough and puts a heavy load on the mechanism.
Disabling the safety switch would not be the smart thing to do.
Perce
RBM
RBM
If it's a chain drive, it has stops attached to the chain, one for open, one
for close. Is it possible that the door is locked or otherwise stuck?
Willie The Wimp
You may well be right, but limits were properly set a long time ago,
so if that's it, it almost has to be a malfunction.
I will tinker.
Thx,
Willie
Willie The Wimp
Pretty much. It's a standard steel door (1 bay wide), chain drive.
No serious binding, bowing, etc.
Willie The Wimp
>
>If it's a chain drive, it has stops attached to the chain, one for open, one
>for close. Is it possible that the door is locked or otherwise stuck?
No. Opener has been working fine for long, long time. Nothing visable
changed.
dpb
Well, you asked what stops up and down travel--I answered the ???
Clearly there's a malfunction of some sort; whether it's related to the
limit switches or not I can't tell from here.
--
ransley
wrote:
Have you released the door from the opener, does it open and close
smoothly with the same pressure up and down, without binding. My
opener has two adjustments , one on either side for force and travel
length, I had them go out of adjustment.
hr(bob) hofmann@att.net
>
> - Show quoted text -
Agreed. First thing to do is see if the door without the opener
attached works smoothly. If it does, leave the opener physically
disconnected and halfway up. Then push the button and see if the
motor still stops after 1 second, or if it keeps running. If it
stops, there is something wrong with the motor itself or the sensors
on the mechanism that determines when the door is all the way up or
down. If the motor continues to run, then move the door to the up of
down position and see what happens. You have to separate the motor
from the actual door to see cause and effect.
Willie The Wimp
>Willie The Wimp wrote:
>> On Sun, 22 Nov 2009 17:38:53 -0600, dpb <no...@non.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Willie The Wimp wrote:
>>> ...
>>>
>>>> I can't figger how the door-stop mechanism works. Push the button,
>>>> it starts: what stops it and how (when it's working correctly)?
>>> ...
>>>
>>> Limit switches -- there's a contact on each direction; probably on a
>>> threaded rod that rotates as opens/closes to move the actuator.
>>
>> You may well be right, but limits were properly set a long time ago,
>> so if that's it, it almost has to be a malfunction.
>...
>
>Well, you asked what stops up and down travel--I answered the ???
You are correct. Thanks for the response.
>Clearly there's a malfunction of some sort; whether it's related to the
>limit switches or not I can't tell from here.
I continue testing ...
Willie The Wimp
wrote:
>Agreed. First thing to do is see if the door without the opener
>attached works smoothly. If it does, leave the opener physically
>disconnected and halfway up. Then push the button and see if the
>motor still stops after 1 second, or if it keeps running. If it
>stops, there is something wrong with the motor itself or the sensors
>on the mechanism that determines when the door is all the way up or
>down. If the motor continues to run, then move the door to the up of
>down position and see what happens. You have to separate the motor
>from the actual door to see cause and effect.
I thought I could tell by watching full operation, up and down,
without disconnect.
Now think y'all are right: I should test everything seperately.
Will disconnect and test 1.) door 2.) opener (tomorrow).
Thanks,
Willie
ransley
wrote:
> On Sun, 22 Nov 2009 19:39:20 -0800 (PST), "hr(bob) hofm...@att.net" <hrhofm...@att.net>
If its worn maybe the motor is shot and is pulling to many amps, use
an amp meter to check it.
Willie The Wimp
>>Agreed. First thing to do is see if the door without the opener
>>attached works smoothly. If it does, leave the opener physically
>>disconnected and halfway up. Then push the button and see if the
>>motor still stops after 1 second, or if it keeps running. If it
>>stops, there is something wrong with the motor itself or the sensors
>>on the mechanism that determines when the door is all the way up or
>>down. If the motor continues to run, then move the door to the up of
>>down position and see what happens. You have to separate the motor
>>from the actual door to see cause and effect.
>
>I thought I could tell by watching full operation, up and down,
>without disconnect.
>
>Now think y'all are right: I should test everything seperately.
>Will disconnect and test 1.) door 2.) opener (tomorrow).
Tested seperately. Door was OK.
While testing opener only, carrier ran into unit on open,
cracked gear casing. Worm gear is now hanging out, opener
is shot.
Are the Sears openers any good? Looks like I'm on the market
for a new one.
Willie
uncle K
"Willie The Wimp" <Cadilla...@screwmail.com> wrote in message
> Are the Sears openers any good? Looks like I'm on the market
> for a new one.
I have 3 of them, still working fine. The newest one is 20 years
old.............
Of course, many things made 20 years ago (not to mention 40 years ago)
lasted much longer than the crap we buy today, so YMMV.
May your Stanley R.I.P.
Willie The Wimp
Down for the count. But I have 2: 1 is still going after 20+ years.
Thx,
Willie
Willie The Wimp
It wasn't. I increased the limit span, it bottomed and committed suicide. :-(
It was old and worn out anyway.
tn...@mucks.net
>>Clearly there's a malfunction of some sort; whether it's related to the
>>limit switches or not I can't tell from here.
>
>It wasn't. I increased the limit span, it bottomed and committed suicide. :-(
>
>It was old and worn out anyway.
Are you related to Jack Kevorkian?
Bob Villa
wrote:
Sears units have been made by Chamberlain for as long as I know. I
have had 3 in different houses. All chain drive and work well.
(The one I have now I changed the worm-gear set. It was making noise
for years...now it's like new)
bob_v
Willie The Wimp
>> Are the Sears openers any good? Looks like I'm on the market
>> for a new one.
>>
>> Willie
>
>Sears units have been made by Chamberlain for as long as I know. I
>have had 3 in different houses. All chain drive and work well.
>(The one I have now I changed the worm-gear set. It was making noise
>for years...now it's like new)
Thanks. I picked up a Chamberlain at HD last nite. Install today.
