The manual says the drain pump will work to a max of 8 feet.
I'm wondering if I could relocate my washer to where there is no drain pipe,
then install plumbing in the basement ceiling over to a drain pipe.
In other words pump it up and over, rather than breaking up the basement
floor to extend the drain.
Ray
If all else fails, they sell plastic collector boxes with built in
pumps, that would do what you want. Essentially an above-the-floor sump
pit. I've been planning to buy one for my basement to make the abandoned
slop sink usable, and reduce the distance my washer has to pump uphill.
(Floor drains and old washer standpipe to graywater drywell have failed,
and would cost a fortune to fix. Washer is jammed into the collector for
the septic tank, along with the drain lines for furnace and water softener.)
--
aem sends...
whether it says a maximum head (height) of 8 feet or a maximum
discharge hose length of 8 feet, washing machines pumps are not
generally built to accomplish what you describe. in the newer 2000
era machines you may find the speed of the discharge water is greater
than that of the top loader whirlpools of the 1970's, so snake out
your drains and washtubs and standpipes if you are installing a new
machine.
see also siphoning concerns:
http://fixitnow.com/wp/2004/08/27/appliance-repair-revelation-water-flows-into-the-washer-but-the-tub-never-fills-up/
I googled 'plastic collector boxes with built in pumps", but nothing came
up..
Do you know what they are called, or where they can be bought ?
Here is one with a built-in box- I know there are others out there,
because I found them on previous searches, but I can't remember the
proper name for them either. 'Sink drain pump' produced some hits as well.
http://www.filterace.com/detail.aspx?ID=1300
--
aem sends....
Ray wrote:
> Ray
------------------------------------
Definitely go with the self contained tank/pump combo units. I like
Zurn's units and Little Giant versions best. Key word search= sewage
ejector pumps.
If the install is bad you will 100% flood you below grade room. Must be a
good
high capacity sewer line you hook into!!
Here's another one:
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=313498-48284-57339-LWS1&lpage=none
As much as I want to proceed with this project here, it isn't even in
the top half of the list of stuff this place needs... :^(
--
aem sends...
LdB
I don't see any problem with that although most others don't like it.
Not sure why?
If it was mine I'd do your plan but set the washer op on a 16" to 24"
base. First it makes things easier on your back when you don't have to
bend so low. Second, it doesn't push your drain pump to it's max rating.
I will probably try something like that.....
With the pumping systems being between $300 - $800 and still a lot of
equipment to go wrong, it's either that, or break up the floor.
Stop posting from the fucking spam stucco site. This is usenet. Look it
up.
> Try it. The manual says 8'. Your head will likely be less. Run a temp
> drain with a water hose up and over to the old drain. If it works
> fine. If it doesn't work then consult the rocket scientists.
>
Where does all the water in the uphill side of the hose go, when the
pump stops? Back into the washer?
That's right. There is usually a sump between the wash basket and pump.
The maximum head height specification takes that into consideration;
exceed it and you may still have standing water in the wash basket after
the machine stops.
--
Dymphna
Message origin: www.TRAVEL.com
That's the case with all washers. The outside drum is deeper than the
one the clothes sit in so the remaining water doesn't reach them.
Dish washer does the same thing, water sits in the bottom. Using them
once a week or so is enough that the water doesn't get really stale.